Somewhat esoteric mechanical maneuver. Removing a freehub body from a rear hub

88 views
Skip to first unread message

William

unread,
Nov 3, 2011, 5:08:04 PM11/3/11
to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com
I built up a 650B wheelset using a SON delux front hub and a used Deore XT hub that I got from ebay.  Turns out that the 90's era XT rear hub had a non-original freehub body on it.  When I put a cassette on it, the largest cog hit the spokes.  I did a bit of comparison with my other wheels with the same hub, and confirmed it was a non-original replacement.  I wanted this wheelset to be right so I ordered up a replacement freehub body from my LBS (through Quality).  Turns out that it seems that the geometry of these freehub bodies has changed somewhat, and hold the cassette closer to the hub body.  So the newer new one has the same issue.  I ruled out running a spacer anywhere on the system, for a few reasons.  

So, I found another 90's era XT hub, with the period-correct freehub body, that will get this wheel working.  I'd rather not unspoke the previous wheel and rebuild the wheel around this hub.  I'd rather just swap out to the correct freehub body.  That leaves me with a task that I don't recall if I've ever done before: removing a freehub body from a hub that is not built into a wheel.  

I've swapped out the Shimano freehub body on numerous wheels over the years.  It's easy.  Take out the axle like you are doing an overhaul, and unscrew the mounting bolt of the freehub with a 10mm allen wrench.  The rim gives you the torque to unscrew that.  I remember many times from my past life in the bike shop having folks come in with their rear hub and the freewheel still attached, asking me to remove it so they can try to build a wheel.  It was usually impossible to do it.  It was always at least a pain.  You can't get new spokes in, you can't get leverage on the driveside flange of the hubshell.  If the freewheel is worth a lot you destroy the hub to get the freewheel.  With a cassette hub you can spoke up a wheel, but I'd rather not build a temporary sacrificial wheel just to use as a tool to do this on a bare hub.  

My thought is to put a cassette on there, and use segments of chain (at least two) attached to a wooden frame to act as a retention tool to hold the hub steady while I reef on it with my 10mm allen wrench.  I'm pretty psyched about my concept.  I might even video it.  But I wanted to ask if any of you have pulled a freehub body off a bare shimano hub.

William

unread,
Nov 4, 2011, 12:24:38 AM11/4/11
to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com
Well my idea worked.  I took out the axleset of the hub, and then I put a cassette on, and inserted the hub into a 2" diameter hole I had drilled into the side of my workbench.  With a chainwhip in one hand wrapped around the cassette, the 10mm allen wrench in the other I was able to get the hollow bolt loose, while the 2" diameter hole through a 2x8 steadied the assembly from twisting as I wrassled with it. 

Philip Williamson

unread,
Nov 4, 2011, 2:13:02 AM11/4/11
to RBW Owners Bunch
And the video link of you wrasslin' the cobra?
I pray I remember this when the time comes...

phiilp
Message has been deleted

William

unread,
Nov 4, 2011, 10:20:12 AM11/4/11
to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com
Well if the Tinker wants to see video, then I'll get to editing.  :) 

My kids did the shots, and I expect there is substantial editing to do.  I'll get right on it!

William

unread,
Nov 12, 2011, 11:12:24 AM11/12/11
to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com
Well, I did the little video.  It is a lot longer than it probably needed to be.  If you hate it I'll give you your money back  :)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GuLKnVKVL3w


George Schick

unread,
Nov 12, 2011, 11:42:42 AM11/12/11
to RBW Owners Bunch
Interesting. But rather than having to drill a 2" hole in the
workbench, why not take something like a small piece of 2x4 - say
maybe 4" or 5" long - drill a hole about the same size as the center
of the hub diameter, then cut that piece exactly in half. Line the
insides of the half-holes with something like sections cut from an old
inner tube, or maybe one of those flat pad-like devices you use to get
a grip on stubborn jar lids, by gluing them in there with contact
cement. Then you could sandwich them around the hub body and place
the whole assembly between the jaws of a vise and tighten it up just
enough to keep it from turning, but not so tight as to deform or do
other damage to the hub surface.

William

unread,
Nov 12, 2011, 12:34:05 PM11/12/11
to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com
I'm sure there are multiple solutions to that particular problem.  Mine worked, used only stuff I already had on-hand (including that hole), and took less than 10 minutes.  I'd call that a success. 

cyclotourist

unread,
Nov 12, 2011, 1:09:50 PM11/12/11
to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com
A day late, but I can't help it:  It should go all the way up to 11!!!!!!!!

Great vid, compliments to the cinematographer. 

On Sat, Nov 12, 2011 at 8:12 AM, William <tape...@gmail.com> wrote:
Well, I did the little video.  It is a lot longer than it probably needed to be.  If you hate it I'll give you your money back  :)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GuLKnVKVL3w



--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/-/nibm0jsbx-oJ.

To post to this group, send email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.



--
Cheers,
David
Redlands, CA



Reply all
Reply to author
Forward
0 new messages