Mudflap in or out?

[Joe Bunik]

When mounting a (leather) mudflap to (Honjo) daruma bolts of a fender,
is it better to go inboard or out?

Thanks!
=- Joe Bunik
Walnut Creek, CA

[William Pustow]

I don't know which is better but, traditionally, they're inboard.
Bill
Louisville, Ky

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[Steve Palincsar]

On Sun, 2011-12-04 at 12:40 -0800, Joe Bunik wrote:
> When mounting a (leather) mudflap to (Honjo) daruma bolts of a fender,
> is it better to go inboard or out?

I can't imagine how you would do that. Normally you drill a couple of
holes down at the bottom edge of the fender and bolt them on (to the
outside) with bolts through the mud flap and fender, nuts on the
inside.

[Marty]

Came across this - seems right to me:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77448006@N00/3221672976/in/pool-528785@N23/

[Kelly Sleeper]

May not b as pretty but flat / very thin bolt head inside and nuts outside if you are in mud or bad conditions often.
They (nuts) tend to catch leaves and such.

Kelly

[Steve Palincsar]

On Sun, 2011-12-04 at 14:32 -0800, Marty wrote:
> Came across this - seems right to me:
>
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/77448006@N00/3221672976/in/pool-528785@N23/

Here's mine:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/97916047@N00/326011540/sizes/o/in/set-72157603355855778/

[James Black]

On Sun, Dec 4, 2011 at 12:40, Joe Bunik <jbu...@gmail.com> wrote:
> When mounting a (leather) mudflap to (Honjo) daruma bolts of a fender,
> is it better to go inboard or out?

I think the flap should go outboard, because if it is inboard it could
disrupt the flow of water out the bottom of the fender. That said, in
a recent issue of BQ there were instructions about how to put a flap
inboard and secured by the rolled-over edges of the fender. If I were
to put a mudflap inboard, I would probably put some tape over the top
on the inside in order to smooth the transition, to make it more like
a ramp and less like a curb.

James Black
Los Angeles, CA

[Steve Palincsar]

However, that flap was very thin rubber and quite unlike the thick
leather mud flap the OP inquired about.

[Kelly Sleeper]

Here are my mud flaps..

http://www.flickr.com/photos/tksleeper/6153799175/in/set-72157627561999537/

Kelly

[jimD]

Oh no!

Zip ties are the answer.

They may not be appropriate fasteners for 'fine Rivendell bicycles' but face it, they really are da bomb.
-JimD

[Steve Palincsar]

On Sun, 2011-12-04 at 18:40 -0800, jimD wrote:
> Oh no!
>
> Zip ties are the answer.
>
> They may not be appropriate fasteners for 'fine Rivendell bicycles' but face it, they really are da bomb.

Actually, they are Grant-approved and so quite appropriate for Rivendell
bicycles, but certainly not for other fine bicycles.

[Philip Williamson]

I had my mudflaps inboard, but they would flip backwards and make an
'origami fold' that poked out and touched the tire, which would drag
them up inside the fender. I would have to stop and fish them out. I
moved the flaps to the outside, and all's well. I do have them
attached with the draw bolts. The super-low bolts are not the approved
style, but do minimize toe overlap. The flaps are fairly thin leather,
being reclaimed shoe tongues, and the fenders are aluminum V-O
Zeppelins: http://www.biketinker.com/2011/projects/shoe-tongue-mudflap-remount/

Philip

Philip Williamson
www.biketinker.com

[Smitty-A-Go-Go]

I use waxed hand sewing thread (Hemingway & Bartlett V-346 or the beeswax + hemp twine from Riv) and hand sew leather flaps with a straight stitch to the inside of the fender through pre-drilled holes in the fender. I've been doing it for several years in Seattle and now in Portland without issue. I think the issue of the abrupt lip created by the edge of the leather interfering with water draining out is over thinking it. My wife and I ride in rainy/wet conditions regularly and the water drains out fine. I could imagine it catching snow but I don't think it'd ever be a real issue that caused problems. Maybe someone on here who ride a lot in the snow has experienced otherwise? 

As for leaves... I occasionally get leaves caught in my derailers, brakes, kickstand, chainrings and in my fenders but I don't ever remember leaves getting caught on the mudflap.  

I Think it boils down to how you want the line between fender & flap to look. I like the clean look of the flap on the inside. It looks more intentional and less like an afterthought. I've thought about cutting a nice curve on the top of the flap and sewing it on the outside of the fender with a zig-zag stitch, but that seemed like more work with no real benefit, so I've never done it. 

I tried using aluminum rivets once but it looked cumbersome... like an afterthought. The hand stitching looks crafty and Amish. 

 

[Bill M.]

IMO they go outboard. With a good fender line inboard would put the
flap too close to the tire, and I don't want the flap to get sucked up
into the gap. That's less likely if the flap is a bit further away.

Bill

On Dec 4, 12:40 pm, Joe Bunik <jbu...@gmail.com> wrote:

[Minh]

Phillip. Did you use the two bolts on your stay aftermarket? My vo ones came with a single bolt for the fender stay.

[BykMor]

Nice pics, all.

Definitely outside if it's a thick leather. If your fender line is pretty tight, I can't see there being room inside there.

Here's my Ram:

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/KARNLpmQ24hBc7khJ3Jy7dMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink

Cheers,

BykMor

[NickBull]

I saw two "I'm all right Jack" fender flaps in this thread!

"I'm all right Jack" is what Brit's say when something is working well
for them, and it's just too bad for you if you don't benefit as well.

The application to fender flaps is when a bicycle only has a front
fender flap. So the presence of a front fender flap works well for
the rider, but the absence of a back fender flap doesn't do much good
for their friends or fellow cyclists...

From my perspective, it matters less whether flaps go inside or
outside than that there be one at each end of the bike (and that the
rear flap actually be effective -- no Planet Bike useless 2" fender
"flaps" -- you need something that comes down to about 2" off the
ground).

Nick

[Philip Williamson]

Hi Minh,

Yes, I bought extra draw-bolts from Velo-Orange, to keep the fender
from rubbing when the stay twisted around the single draw-bolt. I
moved the stays down at the same time. If I were to do it over, I
wouldn't move the stays down as far, and I'd affix the flaps Kelly's.
Do the Berthoud flaps come with the brass hardware like the saddles?
If I could figure out a way to attach the stays with rivets, I
would...

Philip

Philip Williamson
www.biketinker.com

On Dec 5, 9:51 am, Minh <mgiangs...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Philip. Did you use the two bolts on your stay aftermarket? My vo ones came with a single bolt for the fender stay.

[Philip Williamson]

I assume my 'highwater' rear fender is one of those "I'm all right
Jack" flaps. It's a Jack Flap. I can imagine a situation where my rear
fender could cause someone an issue, such as moving to Portland, or
suddenly taking up randonneuring, but so far it hasn't been an issue.
As it is, the high fender makes it easier to deal with removing my
wheel, and the front extension between the chainstays does seem to
keep the drivetrain "in better nick," as they say. Do they say that?

If you come out to ride with me, I'll take a different bike!

Philip

PS: Please keep Jon Grant and his family in your thoughts and
prayers.

Philip Williamson
www.biketinker.com

[Ryan Watson]

I zip-tie my leather mud flap to a small piece of plastic. Old piece of credit card works great. I trim the plastic bit to just the right width so that it "snaps" in place between the rolled edges on the underside of the fender. This holds the flap in place and gives a clean look with no fender modification at all.
Does that make any sense? It was easier to do than to explain!
I'll try and snap a pic later.

Ryan