Just saying Hello. :)

[Paul Knott]

Hi all,

Soooooo, I recently found out about you guys and figured I'd join up and get involved with the community and whatnot.......

Typically I find out about it all as you're just looking for a new space (kinda just my luck. lol.), and then work got in the way of everything.

But as they say, hey-ho.

I was planning on turning up to Wavemaker this evening, but alas work has gotten in the way so will be unable to show up (or if I do it'll be quite late), but next week I will definitely be there with bells on.

Project wise, I do have quite a few on my list, which all kind of relate to one big project that I have going on.

I'm currently 'remodelling/redecorating' my house somewhat, but because I rent it has to be in a 'non-destructive' way, so pretty much all the projects I have are related to that in one way or another.

I've been building the odd bit of furniture for a couple of years, so the project is mainly consisting of self built/designed furniture, because a/ it's cheaper, b/ I get stuff that fits exactly where I want it to and c/ it's way more fun :)

More parts of the project are a medium/large form factor CNC machine (for building extra bits and pieces), a voice controlled home automation system (Raspberry Pi & Arduino based), and a lot of display units (I'm a collosal sci-fi/comic book nerd so have a lot of stuff to display, which is currently scattered around a bit)

On top of all this, I recently got myself a Prusa I3 printer (which at the moment is driving me insane), which once it's sorted I'll be using to build various movie/tv props etc. for display.

In terms of the props, there are two 'big' prop projects that I have in the works which I am keeping a bit secret at the moment as I won't be getting to the actual building for a while, although I have all the necessary 3d models already built :)

Also in terms of what I can do for the community, with all this going on I have aqcuired a bunch of tools that will need somewhere to live at some point as currently I have one of my bedrooms set up as a little workshop, but at some point I will need that room as part of my bigger plan.

I am also (prepare for large ego injection) a very good 3D Modeller (It's part of my job after all :))  (In fact for anything I am physically building, I build a 1 to 1 scale 3d model first).  So am happy to offer those services to anyone who would like to avail themselves :)

So, that's a little about me, I look forward to meeting you guys.

Paul

[Lionschasing .]

some awesome skills you've got! nice meeting you dude

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Potteries Hackspace" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to potteries-hacks...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to potteries...@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/potteries-hackspace.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

[Ian Knight]

Hello Paul,

I to have a Prusa 3i 3D printer and few things you need to do to get it working right.

One; X axis rails are too long by about 5mm, this causes the Z rails to bow. So you need to print a new (TWO PART) right side for the Y axis. I have STL files if you want.

Two; Z axis rails lift up and times, cure this by drilling hole in both top horizontal members and put a washer on top of rails. (Basically anti lift stops)
Three; Re design the hot end 3D printed parts. Again I have STL files.
Four: The Perspex bed for the Y axis has 3 linear bearing in it, this is CRAP as it needs FOUR.
Five: The Perspex bed for the Y axis WARPS as the heat from the bed heater reflects down. This cause all sort of print lifting off bed and print splitting problem.

            Replace it with a custom made aluminium bed with FOUR bearing.

Six: The Y axis rail I received where bent! By 0.8mm this does not sound much but this means that the bed goes up and down as the bed traverses back and forth.

       This cause all sort of print lifting off bed and print splitting problems.

Seven: Tram it (bed level) to 0.1mm and check it before EVERY print job, ALSO sometimes the Z axis motors do an extra STEP UP at startup so the bottom layer is NOT PROPERLY laid down and the corners lift resulting in BAD prints. So when job starts look to see if extruder is pushing the filament onto the bed as a thin layer (GOOD PRINT) Or laying onto the bed like tooth paste on your brush (BAD PRINT). If the latter, stop the print, re tram and start again.

 

EIGTH: !!!!! Fix the printer to a SOLID BED!!!!! I have screwed my one down to a sheet of 25mm PLYWOOD. This stop it twisting and makes it stable for moving.

 

Blue tape is 3M Scotch 3434, after much testing it seems to be the best.. Use until you have lifting problems then replace.

 

Do these things and you will have a fine little printer….

 

Enjoy Ian

 

 

---

[Paul Knott]

This is the printer I got.

http://www.geeetech.com/geeetech-aluminum-prusa-i3-3d-printer-kit-p-944.html?zenid=oo8h8cbhke1oq36eas2hg01ns5

Not from there, I got it on Amazon.  It's absolutely beautifully made, really surprised at the quality if I'm honest, way better than I expected.

It's all Aluminium and metal bar/threaded rod holders and really sturdily made, there's only a single 3d printed piece and it's a little belt gripper piece that goes on the back of the x axis carriage

Even though I have problems, I would very much recommend it.

The problem I'm having is what appears to be a failure on the main board.

I've had it for about 6 weeks with no successful prints (a couple of time because of my own idiocy but there we go. lol.), turns out that the extruder motor wasn't running properly and in turn not feeding the filament through properly and all of a sudden on saturday the extruder motor won't run at all.  After a bit of poking around with it I thought it was the driver for that channel (tested the motor on other channels and it's fine), but have tested the driver on different channels and it works fine.  So the only thing left is something to do with the main board.

I have an email into the company and they're actually really good at replying relatively promptly, so we'll see what they say.  Not looking forward to having to potentially wait for weeks for a new board though (it's from China I think)

Thanks for all the pointers though, really decent of you :)

Paul

[Ian Knight]

Hello Paul,

As you can see from the photos my one is a Chinese clone, which I must say I am not displeased with as first print out of box was fine.

Problem I had was more I used it the worse it got as the bed warped and other thing went out of kilter like belt stretch etc.

 

Yours though looks really nice and had I known of it I think I would have bought it instead of one I have.  

Maybe ill sell my one and order one like yours J

If you need some help when you are up and running with new controller board let know..

Ian

 

 

---

--

[Paul Knott]

Well................it turns out I was being a complete moron. lol.

The motor originally started juddering, so I turned the extruder off while I played around with it.  Turns out the extruder motor won't run if the extruder is at a temp of less than 170 C.

So, turned the extruder on, works fine.  Bloody thing. lol.

so now only two things remain to be fully up and running.  Levelling the bed properly, and stopping the extruder from having a filament wee all the time. lol.

Paul

On Tuesday, 8 March 2016 16:37:01 UTC, Paul Knott wrote:

[Ian Knight]

Paul extruder having a wee is pretty common, my one does until extruder reservoir is empty.

So when printing I use CURA and add a BRIM of 10mm, this gives time for  reservoir to fill again before main print job.

Ian

 

---

From: potteries...@googlegroups.com [mailto:potteries...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Paul Knott
Sent: 09 March 2016 14:22
To: Potteries Hackspace
Subject: [Potteries Hackspace] Re: Just saying Hello. :)

 

Well................it turns out I was being a complete moron. lol.

--

[Paul Knott]

Thanks for that :)

Getting very close to getting a viable print out of the thing.  Seems to be some very very very fine tuning needed to the bed.

I've printed a simple 'block' I built to test the centering etc. but anything bigger seems very hit and miss in terms of putting the plastic down. (currently using PLA, will test with ABS once I have this working :))

Paul

On Tuesday, 8 March 2016 16:37:01 UTC, Paul Knott wrote:

[Ian Knight]

Paul,

Pleased to here you are making some progress. Now as far a bed levelling is concerned some 3D printers have bed levelling built in inasmuch as they have a sensor next to the head and before doing the print run you run the bed levelling programme. This basically maps the bed height and then applies the map to the Z axis of what is being printed, thus compensating for bed  not being 100% true. I think you can get these as an add on but I have not used one, I also seem to remember that a member has a delta printer that self levels like this.

 

In the mean time you could try to print the attached STL that I created to help with my bed levelling.

The other things that makes for funny print problem are slack belts for example. Your printer like my one has quite a large mass bed and print head and when you print sometimes you can hit a point of resonance when the bed move or head moves left/right or forward/back at speed. This can cause the belt to jump a notch, so keep your belt tight and check them regularly when they are new. Or the stepping motor to miss a step as the head/bed is going in the opposite direction that the motor is trying to drive it in the other. So to minimize this, run at low print speeds (say 20mm/sec) at first and then slowly increase it until you have issues and then you will have a speed that your machine is happy with. But remember that printing something with long runs and few changes of direction like the Bed-Level STL is very different to printing a penny sized object that has many changes of direction pre second,

 

Get the bed level print to work well with the bottom layer looking really flat all over and you well on you way.

Then print the SIM card holder.

 

Enjoy, and PHS is here to help so just ask as there is lots and lots of skilled people on this forum to help you make a success of your projects.

 

Ian

 

 

---

From: potteries...@googlegroups.com [mailto:potteries...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Paul Knott
Sent: 09 March 2016 19:28
To: Potteries Hackspace
Subject: [Potteries Hackspace] Re: Just saying Hello. :)

 

Thanks for that :)

--

[Ian Knight]

Paul,

I use PLA at 220c but remember your 220c maybe different from my 220c so experimenting +- 10c is encouraged, what works best for you.

Also filament of a consistent quality is important, so I think buying from a known good source is important.

I have bought six or so reels or different coloured PLA from  https://3dfilaprint.com/ and am not displeased with the results.

I have used Ninjaflex and well it is tricky, also you may have to modify your hot end to get it to push through in a straight line and not fold up into a tangled mess inside the head. Get a 10m sample to test with before buying a reel I think would be prudent.

 

As for ABS well I have not tried so not qualified to discus the subject but issue seems to be the SMELL (best done on warm day with windows open)

 

BTW what software are you using to produce your designs with? I used Alibre v11.1 free version but this is old now and I don’t think there’s any support.

However the newer hobby version Cubify Design is really good, also take a look at OnShape web based 3D CAD it is really good and free for hobbyists.

You can also create assemblies in it that work eg fully functional gearboxes

Ian

 

 

---

From: potteries...@googlegroups.com [mailto:potteries...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Paul Knott
Sent: 09 March 2016 19:28
To: Potteries Hackspace
Subject: [Potteries Hackspace] Re: Just saying Hello. :)

 

Thanks for that :)

--

[Paul Knott]

Hi Ian,

Thanks for all the pointers so far, really helpful and appreciated :)

I've currently got my extruder at 200, and my bed at 100.  The general consensus that I've read is that the bed should be at around 65 for PLA, but so far I've test at 65, 85 and 100, and anything below 100 the print peels at the corners, so sticking with 100 for the time being, it could be that my bed isn't completely level yet, but I have noticed that while printing my little 20mm x 20mm x 3mm centering block that I made, it kind of 'snags' the corners a little, so when it's finished the block kinda has little 'horns' on each corner.

I'll try the things you provided a little later today when I take a break from work :)

As for software....

To build models I use Lightwave as I've used it for years for hobby and now my job, and it exports STL's directly.

For printing I use Repetier Host, which has Slic3r integrated and is simple enough to use (It's what the company I bought the printer from recommends and they provided PLA and ABS Slic3r profiles, so why re-invent the wheel as it were :)) and I like the interface.

While it is a bit frustrating to get it to work it kinda is fun figuring it all out.

On top of all this and all of the projects I have on my list, last night I decided on a new build project to work on to compliment the printer.  A 3D Scanner. :-)

Again, thanks for all the pointers and help :)

Paul

On Tuesday, 8 March 2016 16:37:01 UTC, Paul Knott wrote:

[Ian Knight]

Paul,

100c for bed seems really hot, I mostly use 35c.

There are lots of tricks to get pla to stick to bed, ranging from prit stick to PVA glue, my favourite is masking tape and the type I use is scotch 3M 3434.

Join the reprap forum for some excellent advice on all aspects of 3d printing

Ian

 

---

From: potteries...@googlegroups.com [mailto:potteries...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Paul Knott
Sent: 10 March 2016 09:56
To: Potteries Hackspace
Subject: [Potteries Hackspace] Re: Just saying Hello. :)

 

Hi Ian,

--

[Paul Knott]

I'll try it out at lower temps thanks, like I said I tried at 65 and 85 but had curling corners.

I think I've actually got it working well enough now to get an actual print out of it.  I printed the Sim card holder with no problems, so now testing it with some parts of a filament stand I've designed to clip onto the top of the printer cross bar.  Currently on layer 40 of 49 and all looks to be going very well :)  Will post pics when it's done. (minor thing but big a big deal to me after 6 weeks trying. lol.)

Just a minor stepper motor skip on the y axis to fix now.

Paul

[Ian Knight]

Good work Paul,

Awaiting pics.

Ian

 

---

--

[Paul Knott]

Well after a few more little tweaks I managed to get a fairly decent print of the first part of my filament spool stand :)  (first pic).

Took your advice btw and dropped the bed temp to 35 and it seems to work beautifully, thanks :)

So decided to give it a real test and print something bigger.  2nd pic is about 2 hours into the print and (touch wood) all seems to be going well, although there's 7 hours left on it for things to horribly wrong. lol.

I'll post a completed pic tomorrow (whichever way it goes. lol.)

Paul

[Ian Knight]

Wow Paul they looks like really good prints.

I got this feeling that a few people that follow this forum will be ordering these printers, as looks like great value.

So more to view tomorrow and looking forward to it.

Ian

 

 

---

From: potteries...@googlegroups.com [mailto:potteries...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Paul Knott
Sent: 10 March 2016 22:33
To: Potteries Hackspace
Subject: Re: [Potteries Hackspace] Re: Just saying Hello. :)

 

Well after a few more little tweaks I managed to get a fairly decent print of the first part of my filament spool stand :)  (first pic).

--

[Paul Knott]

Yeah I'm really impressed with the quality.  You look on Thingyverse or somesuch and you see some shocking results. lol.

But considering this is a Chinese Prusa clone you can't deny the quality of it.  And the customer service is actually really good.  I've sent 3 mails to them over the past few days and they've all been replied to (helpfully too) within a day.

I really wouldn't hesitate to recommend this.  The build quality is excellent (apart from the threaded rods which were a bit chewed up, but I had some lying around at home, so for me not a big deal, and a 1m rod (which is plenty of length) from B&Q is only about £6-7.

Here is the Amazon link if anyone who reads this is interested.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0148CXWRS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s02

Ignore the images with all the printed parts, as I said before only one very small piece to hold the x axis belt is printed on the one I got.

Paul

On Thursday, 10 March 2016 23:03:53 UTC, Ian Knight wrote:

Wow Paul they looks like really good prints.

I got this feeling that a few people that follow this forum will be ordering these printers, as looks like great value.

So more to view tomorrow and looking forward to it.

Ian

 

 

---

From: potteries...@googlegroups.com [mailto:potteries...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Paul Knott
Sent: 10 March 2016 22:33
To: Potteries Hackspace
Subject: Re: [Potteries Hackspace] Re: Just saying Hello. :)

 

Well after a few more little tweaks I managed to get a fairly decent print of the first part of my filament spool stand :)  (first pic).

 

Took your advice btw and dropped the bed temp to 35 and it seems to work beautifully, thanks :)

 

So decided to give it a real test and print something bigger.  2nd pic is about 2 hours into the print and (touch wood) all seems to be going well, although there's 7 hours left on it for things to horribly wrong. lol.

 

I'll post a completed pic tomorrow (whichever way it goes. lol.)

 

Paul

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Potteries Hackspace" group.

To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to potteries-hackspace+unsub...@googlegroups.com.

[Paul Knott]

As promised, pics of my first successful proper large-ish scale print.  I'm so happy. lol.

Paul

[Ian Knight]

Cracking job.

 

---

From: potteries...@googlegroups.com [mailto:potteries...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Paul Knott
Sent: 11 March 2016 10:41
To: Potteries Hackspace
Subject: Re: [Potteries Hackspace] Re: Just saying Hello. :)

 

As promised, pics of my first successful proper large-ish scale print.  I'm so happy. lol.

 

Paul

--

You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Potteries Hackspace" group.

To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to potteries-hacks...@googlegroups.com.

[Genesis Rowley]

Looking great