IN-3 Lead Identification

[Smiffy]

As I read precious little Russian and can't figure this from the datasheet, could someone enlighten me as to which is the anode and the cathode in an IN-3?

I'm assuming that the cathode is the silver electrode with the hole in the middle and the anode the smaller, grey, electrode - but don't want to commit this to an Eagle part and end up getting the entire board of 21 tubes wrong! (They will be mounted flat to the board, leads bent through 90 degrees. This is for a BCD clock.)

Cheers

M

[David Forbes]

On 3/3/13 2:10 PM, Smiffy wrote:
> As I read precious little Russian and can't figure this from the datasheet,
> could someone enlighten me as to which is the anode and the cathode in an
> IN-3?
>

Is there some reason not to build a prototype with a few devices to test
it first?

--
David Forbes, Tucson AZ

[Nicholas Stock]

http://www.tube-tester.com/sites/nixie/dat_arch/IN-3.pdf

I'd say from the picture that the left hand lead is the anode when looking at the tube from the front....;-) The front being the side without the little bump in the metal plate...

As David said, why not fire one up with the relevant series resistor and just give it a whirl....it's not as if they're expensive...(yet!)

Nick

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[Nicholas Stock]

Whoops, my bad...the little bump in the metal plate faces the front!! Sincere Apologies!

Nick

[NoCampersFluffy]

Hello

IN-3's have a little arrow imprinted into the glass near where the wires exit at the bottom of the bulb.  The arrow points to the anode.

[NoCampersFluffy]

Woops wrong way round.  The arrow points to the Cathode. Sorry.

[NoCampersFluffy]

If you grab the datasheet from Dieter's site, which has the extended datasheet for an IN-3, the explanation for the arrow is listed just under the diagram on page 2.  The arrow points to the Cathode.

[Smiffy]

On Monday, March 4, 2013 10:03:40 PM UTC+10:30, NoCampersFluffy wrote:

If you grab the datasheet from Dieter's site, which has the extended datasheet for an IN-3, the explanation for the arrow is listed just under the diagram on page 2.  The arrow points to the Cathode.

Thanks to all for the replies. Have to say that I'd never have matched up the arrow on that picture to something on the tube, based on the text; I couldn't see the arrow on the tube until I knew it was there and had a good peer for it, and reading the Cyrillic phonetically, couldn't guess at any meanings. Think I really do need glasses (and didn't occur to me to chuck it under my assembly microscope.)

As regards prototyping, I'm one of the cautious types who tends not to build anything - and certainly won't apply power to anything - until I have exhausted the possibilities of the datasheet/manufacturer's helpdesk/friendly online community. I guess it's a combination of OCD and habits gained working with Expensive Silicon ;-) The PCB in question is actually my prototype for this. I tried going back to matrix board, but find it such a complete pain to wire up, I'd rather do the work in Eagle - which also gives me a schematic for reference - and chuck the whole thing onto Kinsten positive photoresist coated PCB stock. [For smaller, non-prototype, stuff which I don't need in a hurry, I get the boards made by OSHPark.]

Thanks again to all; will now press on and assemble the PCB for the little boost converter, then start fine-tuning resistor values.

[Quixotic Nixotic]

On 4 Mar 2013, at 19:31, Smiffy wrote:

> As regards prototyping, I'm one of the cautious types who tends not
> to build anything - and certainly won't apply power to anything -
> until I have exhausted the possibilities of the datasheet/
> manufacturer's helpdesk/friendly online community.

Ah, one of the 'Perfection is paralysis' brigade. Happily I am too
ignorant to do that. I get what I think is enough knowledge to mess
with a tube and then jump in. I've blown some boards up, especially
ones where I've simply dropped the mains with a 5v zener to power a
processor. When they short they tend to throw the tracks off the
board a little harshly in my opinion and with a loud crack, but I can
usually scrape the clinker off. I have not yet blown any tubes up,
but I expect that day will come.

Those IN-3s seem to work better when they've woken up a bit.

John S