converting pc diagrams from old magazines

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P.Berk

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Mar 20, 2012, 9:19:05 PM3/20/12
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Can anyone point me to how to convert a full-size pc board diagram from an old magazine to a form that a pc board manufacturer can use. I have some 8 x 8 inch diagrams which I need 2-3 boards made.
Thanks for any help   Phil Berk

threeneurons

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Mar 20, 2012, 9:40:22 PM3/20/12
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May have to be reverse engineered. Maybe a few of the vendors may take some kind of graphic format like .BMP, or .GIF, but then there's the NC drill file. That one needs real numbers.

Cheapest option is to make your own PCB. That's what the magazine artwork was originally intended for. There are a few guys here that have done it, so they might help you out.

Cobra007

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Mar 20, 2012, 10:05:53 PM3/20/12
to neonixie-l
It can be done, but it could be quite a lot of work. Can you post a
scan from the magazine and a scan from the circuit itself as well?

Michel

Charles MacDonald

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Mar 20, 2012, 10:35:04 PM3/20/12
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On 12-03-20 09:40 PM, threeneurons wrote:

> Cheapest option is to make your own PCB. That's what the magazine
> artwork was originally intended for. There are a few guys here that have
> done it, so they might help you out.

The MG Chemicals line still has all the stuff for working from a layout.
Depending on how many IC packages are involved, the Photocopy to
Overhead film to make a negative method may work, but that tends to
enlarge/reduce the size slightly. No problem if you are just using
transistors and such, a reall problem if you have 40 pin Dips.

see
http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/prototype.html
http://www.mgchemicals.com/


--
Charles MacDonald Stittsville Ontario
cm...@zeusprune.ca Just Beyond the Fringe
http://users.trytel.com/~cmacd/tubes.html
No Microsoft Products were used in sending this e-mail.

Quixotic Nixotic

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Mar 22, 2012, 4:55:22 AM3/22/12
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On 21 Mar 2012, at 01:19, P.Berk wrote:

Can anyone point me to how to convert a full-size pc board diagram from an old magazine to a form that a pc board manufacturer can use. I have some 8 x 8 inch diagrams which I need 2-3 boards made.
Thanks for any help   Phil Berk

1] Scan it, autotrace it, spend hours retouching it. Import vectors into PCB program in whatever format it understands. I use Osmond PCB and it imports DXF. Mess about with it some more filling paths. Probably end up disappointed with result. Send to board house eventually.

2] Scan it, import it into your PCB program as a background to trace over. Place components and tracks to match your scan. I use Osmond PCB, it places a background PDF to trace over. Send to board house.

3] Laser photocopy from magazine onto a fine surfaced calendered or chalk coated paper - iron toner onto FR4 copper board, etch, clean toner off and drill.

4] As 3, but use expensive blue Press 'n' Peel paper, sold for the purpose.

5] As 3 and 4 but scan from magazine into computer and output onto paper using a black and white laser printer.

6] Replicate the circuit on perforated board, vero, tripad, single pad, point to point wiring, Roadrunner etc.

7] Photocopy mag. Tape photocopy onto FR4 copper board. Drill all holes through and deburr. Use permanent marker pens, Staedtler Lumo series, maybe Sanford Sharpie or similar, to draw interconnecting paths. Paint on girly nail varnish for large areas of retained copper. I always go for a dark hue to suit my complexion. Erm, I mean choose dark because you need it to show up well so you can see where you put it, don't use clear. Etch board.

8] As above but use 'Letraset' style rub down transfers onto copper instead of using pens. Hard to find maybe these days. Check your craft shop, see if they have suitable sets of lines.

9] Use a RepRap with a pen to draw your PCB design onto copper. http://ultimachine.com/content/printing-circuit-boards-mendel

If you do your own etching, whatever you use as an acid resist, degrease your copper boards first and don't touch the surface with your greasy fingers. Wear thin cotton or latex gloves if necessary.

8x8 is a fair old size, good luck.

John S

Cobra007

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Mar 22, 2012, 5:28:31 AM3/22/12
to neonixie-l
I would choose for number 2, used that method before and worked out
really well. I think it'a also the quickest way and perfect if you
want to make multiple boards.

Michel



On Mar 22, 7:55 pm, Quixotic Nixotic <nixci...@jsdesign.co.uk> wrote:
> On 21 Mar 2012, at 01:19, P.Berk wrote:
>
> > Can anyone point me to how to convert a full-size pc board diagram from an old magazine to a form that a pc board manufacturer can use. I have some 8 x 8 inch diagrams which I need 2-3 boards made.
> > Thanks for any help   Phil Berk
>
> 1] Scan it, autotrace it, spend hours retouching it. Import vectors into PCB program in whatever format it understands. I use Osmond PCB and it imports DXF. Mess about with it some more filling paths. Probably end up disappointed with result. Send to board house eventually.
>
> 2] Scan it, import it into your PCB program as a background to trace over. Place components and tracks to match your scan. I use Osmond PCB, it places a background PDF to trace over. Send to board house.
>
> 3] Laser photocopy from magazine onto a fine surfaced calendered or chalk coated paper - iron toner onto FR4 copper board, etch, clean toner off and drill.
>
> 4] As 3, but use expensive blue Press 'n' Peel paper, sold for the purpose.
>
> 5] As 3 and 4 but scan from magazine into computer and output onto paper using a black and white laser printer.
>
> 6] Replicate the circuit on perforated board, vero, tripad, single pad, point to point wiring, Roadrunner etc.
>
> 7] Photocopy mag. Tape photocopy onto FR4 copper board. Drill all holes through and deburr. Use permanent marker pens, Staedtler Lumo series, maybe Sanford Sharpie or similar, to draw interconnecting paths. Paint on girly nail varnish for large areas of retained copper. I always go for a dark hue to suit my complexion. Erm, I mean choose dark because you need it to show up well so you can see where you put it, don't use clear. Etch board.
>
> 8] As above but use 'Letraset' style rub down transfers onto copper instead of using pens. Hard to find maybe these days. Check your craft shop, see if they have suitable sets of lines.
>
> 9] Use a RepRap with a pen to draw your PCB design onto copper.http://ultimachine.com/content/printing-circuit-boards-mendel

Quixotic Nixotic

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Mar 22, 2012, 9:30:42 AM3/22/12
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On 22 Mar 2012, at 09:28, Cobra007 wrote:

> I would choose for number 2, used that method before and worked out
> really well. I think it'a also the quickest way and perfect if you
> want to make multiple boards.
>
> Michel
>

>> 2] Scan it, import it into your PCB program as a background to trace over. Place components and tracks to match your scan. I use Osmond PCB, it places a background PDF to trace over. Send to board house.

Yes it's my choice too. Do other pcb programs allow tracing layers? I am sure they must do.

8"x8" is a large board though. I'd etch my own and drill, if it's just a few off. But so many things left unconsidered: authenticity, speed of production, personal ability, saleability, visual look.

John S

David Forbes

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Mar 22, 2012, 9:43:37 AM3/22/12
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If it were me, I'd capture the schematic into a CAD program, generate a
new layout as a double-sided board, and have it manufactured by the
modern method of Gerber files.


--
David Forbes, Tucson AZ

Quixotic Nixotic

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Mar 22, 2012, 1:20:41 PM3/22/12
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On 22 Mar 2012, at 13:43, David Forbes wrote:

> If it were me, I'd capture the schematic into a CAD program, generate a new layout as a double-sided board, and have it manufactured by the modern method of Gerber files.
>
> --
> David Forbes, Tucson AZ

Yes David, but we don't know if he wants to be authentic and faithful to the original. In the case of some 1950s Wurlitzer and Seeburg jukebox boards I did last year people wanted the same retro curves as laid out originally on acetate with sticky pads and crepe tape. In my case I used a background scan and traced over the curved trackwork.

Do sad people spend all their time looking at their PCBs? I did dissuade them from using the original cheap resin/paper material as that tends to cook a lot with tube technology, especially around Seeburg's edge connectors.

John S

threeneurons

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Mar 22, 2012, 1:59:40 PM3/22/12
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Yes David, but we don't know if he wants to be authentic and faithful to the original. ...

John S


Maybe, he'll tell us what the boards are for. If its an interesting project, someone with PCB tools, will do it for him, just to make the same project, too.

Hmmm ... social engineering ... 

David Forbes

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Mar 25, 2012, 7:56:25 PM3/25/12
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On 3/22/12 10:20 AM, Quixotic Nixotic wrote:
> On 22 Mar 2012, at 13:43, David Forbes wrote:
>
>> If it were me, I'd capture the schematic into a CAD program, generate a new layout as a double-sided board, and have it manufactured by the modern method of Gerber files.
>>
>> --
>> David Forbes, Tucson AZ
>
> Yes David, but we don't know if he wants to be authentic and faithful to the original. In the case of some 1950s Wurlitzer and Seeburg jukebox boards I did last year people wanted the same retro curves as laid out originally on acetate with sticky pads and crepe tape. In my case I used a background scan and traced over the curved trackwork.
>

A good CAD artist can make a board that looks just like it was laid out
with crepe tape. The better software has radiused curves for traces. The
trick is to *not* use the grid feature, so that you have the slight
imperfections of hand layout.

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