The subject more or less says it all. I'm using a 12V power supply and need to wire up a Step-Up Converter to it to run a the Kapton heater from the trinitylabs store. I did some digging through the threads and found a diagram for wiring up step-downs and some of the other heater options, but none specific to this wiring setup. Does a diagram for this already exist, and if so can I get a link to it?
Thanks in advance
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If you have one of the TL orginal step up converters, you’ll notice the chip on the underside is cracked, and its dead. The link you sent, I replaced it with that, and have never had a single issue single. I blew up 2 TL step ups prior to this. 23 to 110C in about 8-9 minutes. Eventually I may shift to 24v when I build a new bot.
Best regards,
Colt Majkrzak F5CI, F5SE
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I just started checking my RAMPS board to make sure its compatible with a 24v supply. An older thread mentioned that you need to make sure the capacitors are 35V or higher and I can't seem to spot a voltage listed on them. I assume that since it's a RAMPS 1.4 board from ultimachine, it's also 24V compatible.Can anyone confirm my assumption, or do I have to tear off a capacitor and examine it for a voltage rating? :)
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Are you guys actually running anything that requires 700C or is this simply testing hardware limits? I have no idea what temp limits my j-head can handle, but I'd assume 700C would be hot enough to melt the carriage above it...
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On Wednesday, 26 December 2012 18:16:16 UTC, Jon Sullivan wrote:Moving along on this…
I've received and hooked up the 24V power supply. When I initially wired it for power I took readings on it and it was outputting 24V. When I kick the bed on I notice that the output drops to 18V, and the kapton heater is getting 17V. I'm a little hesitant to start monkeying around with the pot on the PSU, and thought I'd ask if this is normal before blowing up any more of my hardware.
Hi,What make, model & specs for the PSU do you have ?
Is the PSU rated for the load you've given it ?
Voltage sag that large from setpoint (24V) means the PSU usually won't survive long. It's running overloaded.Yes some are designed to go into constant current mode but they are usually sold as battery chargers.There may also need to be a bit of load for the output voltage to be regulated correctly.Try setting the pot with just a few amps of load.Watch out for a cheap PSU rated at X only delivering X/2 Amps.Plenty of ATX cheap PSUs sold as 4 to 600 W are designs for 2-300 W.Are you measuring at the PSU output or the heater ?
Are the connecting wires getting hot ?
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Using a series resistor in order to run fans on a higher voltage is quite common on some systems. It will drop the speed (and noise) a little which may be ok.
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In my experience, based on 1000s of units in service, Mean Well are very good.
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Caanon,
I purchased the PSU you had linked to do my 24V conversion but it seems I’m having some issues. If I measure the output voltage on that PSU, no matter how I adjust the POT, the PSU peak output seems to be 23v? With the electronics hooked up and just the bed running, I get about 17v output.
Is this what you’re seeing with yours also or maybe do I have a defunc’ed unit? The box it came in was a little odd looking and the QC sticker was actually broken.
TIA
Best regards,
Colt Majkrzak F5CI, F5SE
From: mend...@googlegroups.com [mailto:mend...@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Caanon
Sent: Monday, December 17, 2012 1:46 PM
To: mend...@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [MendelMax] Wiring 12V Power Supply to Kapton Heater w/Step up converter
I've been running this 24V 480W supply for 5 months and haven't had a single hiccup:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/480W-24V-20A-Regulated-Switching-Power-Supply-CCTV-/280712320488
I figured I'd overkill on the wattage so that I'm not constantly running at near max capacity. Alongside it I'm using Ez's 12v Step-Down converter, something similar to this:
And I've decided to change my hot end power resistor to a 25 Ohm one, since after seeing my charred-but-still-somehow-working 5.6 Ohm one that was running 24v but PID'd to 25% I was a little leery about trusting it. I ended up at the 25Ohm one since we aim for ~25W to heat the hot end, so P=V^2/R, 25=24^2 / R, R=23.04... but since it's hard to source single resistors in that resistance range I went with 25 Ohms for 23.04W, which provides almost identical heat-up times to 24v/5.6Ohm but without all the potential hot burneyness and fire.
DigiKey link:
On Monday, December 17, 2012 9:30:13 AM UTC-8, Jon Sullivan wrote:
I *guess* I'm fine with a power supply that could burn my house down as long as I'm only paying 30 bucks for it.
On Mon, Dec 17, 2012 at 12:07 PM, bluecoast <andrew...@gmail.com> wrote:
Yeah, +1: Mean Well is a decent Chinese brand and clearly brags that it's UL listed. There are used US/Japan-made ones for less than the $150 link you provided too... you have to search for 24V and actually go into the auctions to find the wattage or current stated.
On Monday, December 17, 2012 11:16:57 AM UTC-5, BusyBotz wrote:Reading back, I wasn't trying to imply that we need expensive power supplies for our machines. Just that in shopping, buyer beware.
On Monday, December 17, 2012 10:10:51 AM UTC-6, Triffid Hunter wrote:
I got a $33 15A/360w "LED lighting" supply from hong kong. arrived in
just over a week, has worked fine for the past few months even with
the voltage dialed up to 28v and the extra current that that causes
the bed to draw.
link: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/270931957632
I have an LM2596-based step-down for my fans and leds. I drive my
hot-end and motors direct from 24v. I did try running my hot-end from
the LM2596 but it couldn't quite handle the current - the chip itself
is rated for it, however the board it was on didn't provide sufficient
heatsinking and I strongly suspect the inductor wasn't up to the task
either.
The 24v kapton heater draws 8.33A for reference. The motor draw will
be less than 1A 90% of the time even if you have them all dialed up to
max - due to how the stepper drivers work, they take quite a bit less
current from the supply than what is delivered to the windings. The
hot-end will draw peaks of 5A but average of 1A or less. Everything
else (fans, lights, etc) are pretty insignificant compared to these 3
primary power users.--
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Does anyone else by chance have this PSU
http://www.ebay.com/itm/480W-24V-20A-Regulated-Switching-Power-Supply-CCTV-/280712320488
And can comment on the output voltage w/o load? Trying to determine if this unit was screwed out of the box (QC sticker was broken, it was slightly bent, only seeing 23.0v at peak / fully turned up).
Also could anyone recommend a PSU and a source that can easily drive the TL Y upgrade kit bed heater + electronics @ 24v?
TIA!
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Wow I must be blind, I totally read that thread even :/
Thanks!
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I just ordered one as well, hopefully be in Wednesday / Thursday, so we’ll have a race who can report back faster :P
I emailed the seller on ebay to return this one, just a shame since the unit seems like a rip off after looking at it in person now :/ (Flimsy, conflicting labels, etc)
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Very Odd, if I went CCW I was seeing the output voltage lower, and CW I gave it a solid dozen or more turns and never saw it even for a brief moment jump above 23.0v. I’m starting to think I just got a bad unit, the whole thing looked like it got banged up before they actually even put it in the box. One of the mounts was bent, the QC sticker was broken, etc.
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Oh ya its Chinese majorly, stamped ear to ear, but its also ‘auto’ switching, so I don’t even have anything I can adjust L
What’s even better is now the ebay company wants to give me 70% back of my total amount so I can keep the defective thing…
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Mean Well PSU just got here and wow you won’t be disappointed. The ebay POS would vdroop the second the heater came on from 23 to 17v, this mean well basically gives you the middle figure and says come at me bro after you flip the heater on.
Literally ZERO vdrop, 24v solid bed on or off. Not cheap but just impressive as hell.
From: mend...@googlegroups.com [mailto:mend...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Colt D. Majkrzak
Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2013 5:29 PM
To: mend...@googlegroups.com
Subject: RE: [MendelMax] Wiring 12V Power Supply to Kapton Heater w/Step up converter
Oh ya its Chinese majorly, stamped ear to ear, but its also ‘auto’ switching, so I don’t even have anything I can adjust L
What’s even better is now the ebay company wants to give me 70% back of my total amount so I can keep the defective thing…
Best regards,
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Here’s an example of the TL upgrade bed with the new PSU, take into account the thermistor is still screwy (still haven’t got a confirmation from TL on what table I should be using with the new bed). So that’s actually roughly 115-120. Now just got to get it off bang-bang and we’re back in business.
From: mend...@googlegroups.com [mailto:mend...@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Colt D. Majkrzak
Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2013 7:05 PM
To: mend...@googlegroups.com
Subject: RE: [MendelMax] Wiring 12V Power Supply to Kapton Heater w/Step up converter
Mean Well PSU just got here and wow you won’t be disappointed. The ebay POS would vdroop the second the heater came on from 23 to 17v, this mean well basically gives you the middle figure and says come at me bro after you flip the heater on.
Literally ZERO vdrop, 24v solid bed on or off. Not cheap but just impressive as hell.
Best regards,
From: mend...@googlegroups.com [mailto:mend...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Colt D. Majkrzak
Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2013 5:29 PM
To: mend...@googlegroups.com
Subject: RE: [MendelMax] Wiring 12V Power Supply to Kapton Heater w/Step up converter
Oh ya its Chinese majorly, stamped ear to ear, but its also ‘auto’ switching, so I don’t even have anything I can adjust L
What’s even better is now the ebay company wants to give me 70% back of my total amount so I can keep the defective thing…
Best regards,
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Mean Well PSU just got here and wow you won’t be disappointed. The ebay POS would vdroop the second the heater came on from 23 to 17v, this mean well basically gives you the middle figure and says come at me bro after you flip the heater on.
Literally ZERO vdrop, 24v solid bed on or off. Not cheap but just impressive as hell.
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