What kinds of speeds are you guys printing at?

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Misha

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Jun 11, 2012, 9:32:01 AM6/11/12
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I am getting pretty good prints at around 30mm/sec, but have not tried to push it any higher than 40 because I needed to quickly crank out some nice looking demo pieces.  Now that I have something to show off I want to push my printer to it's max ability.
 
So what kinds of speeds/accelartion do you have set that still gives you good prints?
 
I'm printing with PLA on RAMPS 1.4 running Marling.
 
Thanks!

NCBob

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Jun 11, 2012, 9:35:21 AM6/11/12
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For high quality prints I'm running 60-75, everything else I run at 100

On my Prusa it took me a while to tweak it to get it printing really good, my mendelmax has required very few tweaks right off the line.

Joseph Bekedam

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Jun 11, 2012, 12:20:44 PM6/11/12
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My normal, medium to medium-high quality settings for Slic3r:
Perimeters: 65mm/s, Infill: 75mm/s
Acceleration: 1500mm/s
Infill:0.15 - 0.25
Retraction: 1mm @30mm/s
Walls: 2-3
Layer Height: 0.2mm
Hot-End Temp: 185-195 degrees depending on the filament/supplier (MakerGear Hot-End, 0.5 mm hole)

If a piece tapers off to a point, I have to cut back to ~30-40mm/s perimeters and infill, or else the top ends up being a melted, saggy blob.

I don't really see any major increase in quality below 65mm/s perimeters unless I drop down below 30mm/s.

Misha

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Jun 11, 2012, 12:51:24 PM6/11/12
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Thanks, I'll have to try to turn up the speed tonight on a simple object and see how it turns out.

Ezra Zygmuntowicz

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Jun 17, 2012, 9:58:56 PM6/17/12
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On my very highly tuned mendelmax(been tweaking and tuning for 5 months straight) I print at these speeds for best tradeoff between quality and speed>>

PRINT SPEED
===============
Perimiters 140mm/sec
Small perimiters 110mm/sec
Infill : 180mm/sec
Solid Infill 180mm/sec
Bridges:  90mm/sec
Travel:  130mm/sec
Bottom Layer speed ratio:  0.3
==============

PRINT SETTINGS
==============
Perimeters:  2
Solid Layers:  3
Fill DensityL:  0.33
Fill P{attern: Rectilinear
Solid Fill Pattern:  Rectilinear
Randlmize Tsarting Points  *YES!*
Generate Support Material *NO!*
=============

RETRACTION
=============
Length 1.3-1.6mm depending on your extruder
Lift Z:  0.45 # set this to a tiny bit higher then your current layer height, in this setup I am printing 0.4mm layer height so I z lift 0.45mm
Speed:  10mm/s-15mm/s
Extra Length on Restart:  0.1mm
Minimum Travel after Restart:  1
=============

ACCURACY
=============
Layer height  0.4mm
First Layer Height Ratio:  1.1
Infill every N layers:  1
============


I've come to these settings after countless hours of tweaking and tuning. Of course every machine is differentbut this is a medium speed with high quality for a m,endel,max machine.

I can actually push most of the speed values up to 280mm/sec without stressiong the machine but at this speed an occasionaly mised step or slipped belt can easily ruin a print.

The speed settings here should be a good goal for all of you and if you reach these pseeds without failed prints you are doing excellent.

Cheers-
Ezra
CEO/Founder
TrinityLabs

Ross Shannon

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Jun 17, 2012, 10:20:40 PM6/17/12
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What material? What temp? I've been printing PLA at similar speeds but found the extruder temp had to be raised to 200+ to get a good infill - honeycomb.  I print the first layer lower and slower. 

Best regards,

Ross Shannon

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Ezra Zygmuntowicz

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Jun 18, 2012, 12:31:42 AM6/18/12
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  Sorry I left that info out. I almost exclusively print in ABS.  I'm not much of a PLA guy since I got into 3d printing to make parts for my Quadcopter addiction. And the first set of landing gear I printed was in PLA. First time I landed hard the landing gear shattered and got a shard in my eye :/ 

So I switched to ABS then and never really got back into PLA. ABS makes much better parts that will see real world usage.

Anyway so those speeds I listed are for abs. I run my hot end at 228C for natural ABS and u run black and most colored ABS between 222C-226C. A good average temp for colored abs is 224C.

I use a borosilicate glass heated bed with PET tape on top and I make "ABS Glue" by dissolving 4 x 6" sticks of 3mm ABS per liquid oz of acetone in a glass jar or bottle with a sealable lid.

Then while the bed is hot, I will wad up 2 paper towels and cover the abs glue bottle and turn upside down to drench the paper towel wad. Then wipe it across the bed a few times. The acetone will evaporate instantly leaving a milky film of abs on top of the PET tape.

Using this system and wiping the bed with abs glue between every print *wgile the bed is hot* virtually eliminates and curling of corners or first layer adhearsion issues.

One of my printers has a prus PCB heater that can never get itself above 99C. But using abs glue I can print flawless prints at any bed temp 80C or greater.

I highly recommend the abs glue technique whenever you print ABS. It will improve your prints dramatically and pretty much eliminate first layer sticking issues.

Cheers
Ezra

Sent from my iPhone

Misha

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Jun 18, 2012, 9:47:10 AM6/18/12
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Wowza, did you added any mechanical updates to get these kind of speeds or just firmware tinkering?

Bill Ruckman

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Jun 18, 2012, 5:15:21 PM6/18/12
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Ezra,

Can you post your configuration.h file, or at least the speed and acceleration portions?

Thanks,
--Bill
 

On Mon, Jun 18, 2012 at 6:47 AM, Misha <mbt...@gmail.com> wrote:
Wowza, did you added any mechanical updates to get these kind of speeds or just firmware tinkering?

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Ezra Zygmuntowicz

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Jun 18, 2012, 5:57:43 PM6/18/12
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This is all with stock Marlin firmware maxbots ships in the mendelmax1.5 thingivewrse page. I did nothing to the firmware except for change the esteps for my extruder.

Most of the sped comes from months and months of tweaking and tuning the machine itself to keep everything perfectly aligned. I also use borosilicate glass print bed and not the bug aluminium print bed as I think that one is too heavy and will not allow these kinds of speeds.

Even though I get less print are IU aqxctually just use a prusa PCB heater and  standard prusa sized borosilicate peice of glass at 200x214mm. It weighs soo much less it makes prints faster and better but I lose some print size.

The new Y axis we're getting ready top ship will hasve borosilicate ghlass printy beds and no more hrsvy slu plates so will make for a faster Y axis a well.

Cheers-
-Ezra

Ezra Zygmuntowicz

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Jun 24, 2012, 5:03:34 AM6/24/12
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Misha-

Just a little follow up here. My speeds that I posted were for ABS plastic not PLA. I see that you mentioned you are printing in PLA. In the last few days I got 24 kilos of assorted PLA colors and so I spent more time printing PLA in the last 3 days then i have in my entire forray into 3d printing.

PLA stays gooey for soo much longer then ABS that when I figured out the right settings for PLA I ended up with similar speeds to you, I had turned down perimeters to 50 and small perimeters to 40 and infill at 60. Any faster and my parts would get slumped out of shape.

One way I figured out how to avoid this and print faster was to print 4 or 8 of my objects at once so the nozzle doesnt get back to anothert layer on a single object until the last layer of PLA is hardended. But I can definitely print with ABS much much faster.

Here is a photo of a nice TrinityLabs logo printed in translucent purple PLA I really like >>


I attached some images of the logo in 3d. I had to add a one 0.175mm layer thick square to give the model something to stick to the print bed with. I always knew PLA was rigid and not flexible at all but it turns at a single layer of PLA is super flexible! Have a peek at the photos to see ;)


And here is a little video of me printing some ABS 20mm tslot extrusions >>


I can print 4 lengths of 100mm in 40 minutes. Which makes for 100mm long 20mm tslot in 10 minutes. I love watching the printer whip around the outline shape of this tslot.


-Ezra
16.jpg
6.jpg
20.jpg
27.jpg
5.jpg
2.jpg

Misha

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Jun 24, 2012, 9:50:54 AM6/24/12
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Thanks for the follow-up.  I have a fan attached to the extruder so I don't have the problem with slumping.  In fact I'm starting to think that I'm cooling too fast which causes it's own problems.

NCBob

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Jun 24, 2012, 12:59:58 PM6/24/12
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Ever since slic3r added dynamic cooling I haven't had any issues with slumping, even with PLA.

Theo Deyle

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Jul 18, 2012, 4:34:32 PM7/18/12
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Ezra;

Where on the thingiverse page is the firmware located?


On Monday, June 18, 2012 5:57:43 PM UTC-4, Ezra Zygmuntowicz wrote:
This is all with stock Marlin firmware maxbots ships in the mendelmax1.5 thingivewrse page. I did nothing to the firmware except for change the esteps for my extruder.

Most of the sped comes from months and months of tweaking and tuning the machine itself to keep everything perfectly aligned. I also use borosilicate glass print bed and not the bug aluminium print bed as I think that one is too heavy and will not allow these kinds of speeds.

Even though I get less print are IU aqxctually just use a prusa PCB heater and  standard prusa sized borosilicate peice of glass at 200x214mm. It weighs soo much less it makes prints faster and better but I lose some print size.

The new Y axis we're getting ready top ship will hasve borosilicate ghlass printy beds and no more hrsvy slu plates so will make for a faster Y axis a well.

Cheers-
-Ezra


On Jun 18, 2012, at 2:15 PM, Bill Ruckman wrote:

Ezra,

Can you post your configuration.h file, or at least the speed and acceleration portions?

Thanks,
--Bill
On Mon, Jun 18, 2012 at 6:47 AM, Misha <mbt...@gmail.com> wrote:
Wowza, did you added any mechanical updates to get these kind of speeds or just firmware tinkering?

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Charles Steinkuehler

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Jul 18, 2012, 4:40:37 PM7/18/12
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On 7/18/2012 3:34 PM, Theo Deyle wrote:
> Ezra;
>
> Where on the thingiverse page is the firmware located?

I don't think there's firmware listed for MendelMax on thingiverse, but
a while back (6/20) Mike Payson posted the preconfigured Marlin firmware
for MendelMax can be found on github:

https://github.com/maxbots/Marlin

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Charles Steinkuehler

Theo Deyle

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Jul 18, 2012, 4:52:47 PM7/18/12
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I saw that post, but I was not sure if the config that Mike is running and the one that Ezra is running are one and the same. From what I remember, Mike did state in that post that the firmware was not up to date.

tdeyle

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Aug 13, 2012, 12:00:14 PM8/13/12
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Ezra;

With these speed settings, do you have the Extrusion Width Ratio under the Advanced Menu set to auto (0)? Or are you giving Slic3r values for these widths?

Theo

Ezra Zygmuntowicz

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Aug 16, 2012, 7:27:58 AM8/16/12
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I let slic3r do that math and I leave extrusion width to 0. Here is my slic3r config that I have been nursing along for quite some time >>

=========================================================================================================
This is my black-max.INI tuned for my personal TrinityLabs MendelMax Pro with upgraded Y axis, X axis and Z axis pictured here>>

But I also use pretty much these same settings on a minimax and a standard mm1.5 pre-upgraded axis. 

=========================================================================================================
# generated by Slic3r 0.9.0 on Thu Aug 16 04:07:04 2012
acceleration = 0
bed_size = 220,270
bed_temperature = 0
bridge_fan_speed = 100
bridge_flow_ratio = 1
bridge_speed = 60
brim_width = 0
complete_objects = 0
cooling = 1
disable_fan_first_layers = 1
duplicate = 1
duplicate_distance = 6
duplicate_grid = 1,1
end_gcode = G1 X0 Y0\nM104 S0 ; turn off temperature\nM140 S0; turn off heated bed\nM84; disable motors
external_perimeter_speed = 100%
extra_perimeters = 1
extruder_clearance_height = 20
extruder_clearance_radius = 20
extruder_offset = 0x0
extrusion_axis = E
extrusion_multiplier = 1.0
extrusion_width = 0
fan_always_on = 1
fan_below_layer_time = 60
filament_diameter = 2.87
fill_angle = 35
fill_density = 0.33
fill_pattern = rectilinear
first_layer_bed_temperature = 0
first_layer_extrusion_width = 200%
first_layer_height = 110%
first_layer_speed = 30%
first_layer_temperature = 0
g0 = 0
gcode_arcs = 0
gcode_comments = 0
gcode_flavor = reprap
infill_acceleration = 50
infill_every_layers = 1
infill_extruder = 1
infill_extrusion_width = 0
infill_speed = 150
layer_gcode = 
layer_height = 0.4
max_fan_speed = 100
min_fan_speed = 35
min_print_speed = 20
notes = 
nozzle_diameter = 0.5
output_filename_format = [input_filename_base].gcode
perimeter_acceleration = 25
perimeter_extruder = 1
perimeter_extrusion_width = 0
perimeter_speed = 80
perimeters = 2
post_process = 
print_center = 110,135
randomize_start = 1
retract_before_travel = 1
retract_length = 1.5
retract_lift = 0.45
retract_restart_extra = 0
retract_speed = 25
rotate = 0
scale = 1
skirt_distance = 6
skirt_height = 1
skirts = 1
slowdown_below_layer_time = 30
small_perimeter_speed = 50
solid_fill_pattern = rectilinear
solid_infill_speed = 90
solid_layers = 3
start_gcode = 
support_material = 0
support_material_angle = 0
support_material_extruder = 1
support_material_extrusion_width = 0
support_material_pattern = rectilinear
support_material_spacing = 2.5
support_material_threshold = 45
temperature = 0
threads = 2
top_solid_infill_speed = 65
travel_speed = 150
use_relative_e_distances = 0
z_offset = 0
===============================================================================================================

Larry Knopp

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Aug 16, 2012, 8:11:13 AM8/16/12
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MK-IVB J-head?

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