M2 small part print pictures?

[oceandesign2]

Hi,

I am new to 3d printing and am considering buying an Makergear M2.

Does anyone have and willing to post some pics of small, detailed parts printed
by their M2 printer? It would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks:)

[jimc]

i dont have pics of anything real tiny that i did myself but check out this yoda that josh printed at .02mm layer height. i have a .25 nozzle but i havent had a chance to do any tiny detailed prints.

https://groups.google.com/forum/#!searchin/makergear/yoda/makergear/DgSeUTcvVfU/_mo7WJlPWjgJ

[Toby]

If you have a model in mind I'll give it a go.  Just post the stl file. I'm nowhere near the best printer on this forum but I've been happy with what I've been printing so far and the challenge would be fun.   Just be fair with the model lol

Here's something I just printed this morning.  I needed a clip that would hold two other parts at an odd angle while I glued them together.  The tolerance here is very small and it worked perfectly right off the bed.  The first pic shows the part and the second pic shows it holding the pieces together.  (The line between the two portions of the clip is part of the modeling.)

[Toby]

Well that yoda will be a tough act to follow.  Thanks jim lol.  I was thinking more along everyday lines like what you get at .1 or .2 mm layer height. The pic I just posted of the small clip was at .2 layer height and took about 10 minutes to print

[jimc]

haha yeah i hear that toby.

ocean as toby said if you have something you would like to see post the stl. i can run it tomorrow

[A. Elias]

Small parts require slow print speeds and cooling, even for ABS.  All which the M2 can do with no problems.  

I've printed some tiny ear glass hearing aid clips, about 8mm x 8mm.  They printed well with good dimensional tolerance.  Unfortunately I don't have any images.  

I've attached an image of a small nylon print I did (whitish color) and Colorfabb PLA (gold).  

The nylon was a flex circuit I was printing for a fit check at work.  0.1mm layer thickness.  It more flexible than the final flex circuit.  

The tree is something I print when I have filament at the end of the roll I want to use up.  I can't recall the layer thickness.  

ADam

[oceandesign2]

Hi jimc, thanks for the offer, if possible could you print  the hollow calibration pyramid at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:8757 at about  1.5 in square at the base. thanks much

[jimc]

yes no problem. i have the pet in the printer now so tomorrow evening i switch out to some abs and give it a go

[Rick Pollack]

that object very similar to this...just the equivalent of printing it many times while stacking it.

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[Dale Reed]

OD2,

A friend at work is making handheld model train throttle packs that have several buttons, a rotary encoder, and a 30 x 30 mm LCD display (like the older cellphones use).  They needed a bezel to mount the LCD on the outside of the handheld pack.  Attached is a photo of what a made a dozen of for them.  Part is 45 mm wide, about 53 mm long, the open is 30 x 30, and the part is about 8 mm thick.  (I also attached the .STL in case you have a way to view the design.)

One more thought:    Get the M2.

Dale

On Monday, March 31, 2014 10:04:27 PM UTC-4, oceandesign2 wrote:

[Jin Choi]

So, this one is kind of cheaty because of the post print treatment, but the bunny in this thread was very respectable even before its bath: https://groups.google.com/forum/m/#!topic/makergear/_i4hcuE2djw (sorry for the mobile link, I'm not at my computer).

My latest creation isn't my finest print ever, but does demonstrate how easy it is to create a mechanical part that works with non printed objects: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:285443
After some careful measuring and modeling, it print and fit like the original. Simplify3D let me specify support only for the outer overhang, and left the center portion to be bridged, which saved some printing time. Red cap is the original.

One half serious tip I would give to new printer owners is to avoid natural PLA. It might be a few dollars cheaper, but it never turns out well in photographs.

[jimc]

ocean here is a good one. i was looking for this and finally found it. one of our members here, earsmith, printed this in pla on his m2

 

[Toby]

Here's what I got with the pyramid test.  It's 1.5 inches at the base.  Makergear PLA printed at .2 mm layer height with the settings close to the defaults in Simplify3D.  The print took about 30 minutes.

The biggest defect you can see in this closeup is the visible layer lines in the edges leading to the point.  They aren't as visible in the base, which leads me to believe they are caused by excessive cooling.  When it got to printing those things at an angle I was worried because my bed fan doesn't work and I thought they might sag without any support.  (Makergear sent a new fan I just haven't installed it.)  I quickly set up two desk fans and pointed them at the bed from both sides.  No sagging, but maybe it caused the layers not to fuse as well as they did on the base.

I think this can definitely be improved.  It was outside my experience to print an object like this so I was mostly using the basic settings.  Interesting to see what others come up with.

On Monday, March 31, 2014 9:04:27 PM UTC-5, oceandesign2 wrote:

[Haasen]

Here is my pyramid test plus my favorite. 

[Toby]

Ooh very nice.  The accuracy up the inside edges of the pyramid is fantastic.  That's where I got a lot of stair-stepping.

[jimc]

ok as promised here is my pyramid. this is the first time i printed one of these.  its 1.5" square and each column is only 1/8". it was kind of tricks controlling the heat. this is done in abs and it actually looks better in person than the pic. this thing really needed my small nozzle installed. would have had way more control with it. 

[Dave K]

This is clear PET+ from MadeSolid. It's a miniature of a speed control lever. I posted this picture some time ago in a different thread, but unless you've been here a while, it's probably new to you.

On Monday, March 31, 2014 10:04:27 PM UTC-4, oceandesign2 wrote:

[Dave K]

I just noticed the nits on that speed lever. It looked good to me when I first printed it, but I guess my standards are higher now! I'll leave it up though...

[Toby]

It is a tricky little devil.  I also think mine looks better in person than in the picture but I didn't want to say lol.  That pic was taken with the camera on a tripod and a super slow shutter- I mean it sat there for about 5-10 seconds before "clicking" and then processing the image.  So I got every little detail there.  Still, I'd like to do better with this thing sometime

[Toby]

These close up photos are brutal.  I'm sure I could find a setting in my camera to sort of smooth things out a bit....hehehe

[oceandesign2]

Looks great, thanks for doing that.  By the way what nozzle size did you use?  You mentioned you also use PET+, I would like to print small semi-transparent housings with this material, I your experience how well does the M2 handle PET+., thanks again:)

[jimc]

I absolutely live the pet+. It prints about as easy as pla with very little warp but it has more heat resistance and its as strong or stronger tha abs. If you end up using s3d for your slicer i have a couple settings files i share with everyone. Its really an awesome filament. I hate to use anything else really. For the pyramid i used the stock.35 nozzle. I have a .25 here for detail prints as well. All can be had through makergear.

[Ketil Froyn]

jimc, your success stories and pictures with pet+ are getting me interested! I'm also interested in postprocessing the parts, and it looks like PET+ responds nicely to sandpaper! Are your settings anything like the ones mentioned on the madesolid website? The M2 is mentioned specifically:

http://madesolid.com/printers.html#MakerGear

Do you buy it from madesolid or are there other suppliers? It seems like I'm virtually at the end of the world, all the way out in Norway, so with shipping and taxes the price is doubled. If I order, I should order a few rolls, and hopefully from the ideal cross section of supplier quality and price. :)

Cheers, Ketil

On 2 April 2014 20:37, jimc <xtremekr...@gmail.com> wrote:

I absolutely live the pet+. It prints about as easy as pla with very little warp but it has more heat resistance and its as strong or stronger tha  abs. If you end up using s3d for your slicer i have a couple settings files i share with everyone. Its really an awesome filament. I hate to use anything else really. For the pyramid i used the stock.35 nozzle. I have a .25 here for detail prints as well. All can be had through makergear.

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-Ketil

[jimc]

Ketil, yes that fff on the madesolid site is mine. I have made some very minor tweaks since plus made another for the black and opaque colors. Im not sure if there are any overseas suppliers. I dont believe there are but if you shoot them an email they will let you know. If you have to ship i would definately order a few rolls for sure to make it worth it. All i can say is that if you are someone that prints with abs and are tired of the warping and messing with ways to stop that then its much easier to use the pet. I just dont know why abs is so mainstream and pet isnt. Also it seems all pet's are created equal. From conversations with other people the madesolid and colorfabb seem to be easiest to print with. Taulman a little tougher. They are always good about replacing rolls but apparently they still dont have consistant extrusion. The pet from coex just impossible without a heated chamber. That is for a stratasys.