Installing Sailfish firmware instructions- The easy and correct way

[Jetguy]

 Some warnings….do not ram your nozzles into the bed. Be careful.

If you use an 1/8th inch glass plate you need to install this to trip the z-switch early so the nozzles don’t ram into the bed. 1.8inch is about 3.2mm and this shim is exactly that…. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:207077/#files

The hands down most important steps that everyone seems to screw up is #18 and validating the offsets in step #20!! Failure to do those steps results in the machine printing off center or the heads slamming into the side of the machine.

 1) Carefully unbox your printer using the directions. Install the extruders. Do an overall nuts and bolt tightening check on your new bot.

2) Download 32bit version 2.2.1 of PyPy here http://pypy.org/download.html. Just download and extract it into a folder and remember where it is, that’s it for now.

3) Download 32bit version 2.7.6 of Python here http://www.python.org Download and extract into its own folder and remember where it is, that’s it for now. Do NOT use a 64bit version.

4) Download Makerware and install here http://www.makerbot.com/makerware/

4.5) Download and install proftweak here https://github.com/nothinglabs/proftweak

You MUST use Sailfish version of Replicator-G to update and configure Sailfish firmware.
5) Download the LATEST version of RepG here http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:32084/#files 

6) Unzip the Replicator-G file to a folder. Leave all the RepG files in their own folder, don’t move them around (don't move the EXE). Open RepG ( click on the ReplicatorG.exe)

7) Make sure your bot is NOT plugged into the computer via USB yet.

8) Open RepG Preferences> Advanced....point the python and pypy interpreters to the correct file location. (See attached PDF for details).

9) From the RepG menu, select "Preferences". Click the "Advanced" button. Change the "Firmware update URL" field from: http://firmware.makerbot.com/firmware.xml

To

http://jettyfirmware.yolasite.com/resources/release/firmware.xml

Then click "Close". Wait until the RepG is done doing its thing! You should see some stuff happening.

10) Connect your bot’s USB cable to both the bot and the computer you will be performing the upgrade from. Next, power your bot on. But DO NOT connect from RepG to the bot. Check the "Connection (Serial Port)" sub-menu of ReplicatorG’s "Machine" menu. Make sure that you see the USB port for your bot listed. If it does not appear, then select the "Rescan serial ports" item of that sub-menu. You cannot proceed until your bot’s serial port appears(ie. COM 1). Again, DO NOT actually connect from RepG to the bot: the firmware upload process itself will automatically perform that step.

11) From ReplicatorG select the "Upload New Firmware" sub-menu of the "Machine" menu. SELECT your correct machine type!!!! For example, loading Replicator 2 firmware on an original Replicator 1 bot results in nothing  on the LCD!!!

 12) Select the latest firmware to install (note that versions ending in "b" means for broken SD card hardware=AKA cannot detect card insertion), select the COM port, click Next, then Upload

15) Once you are done shut the printer down and shut down RepG. Do not connect the USB to the bot yet….

16) Open RepG make sure this is selected …..click Machine > Machine Type > The Replicator "whatever version you have" (Sailfish)" . Be sure to select the names ending in Sailfish to connect to Sailfish firmware.

17) Make sure the usb is plugged into the computer and the Printer and turn it back on, open up RepG. If it does not connect then click the connect button and get a connection

18) On RepG click Machine > Onboard Preferences. In the lower left hand corner of the window is a button to "reset motherboard to factory settings". Do that now!

19) Give the machine a little time to do the above step, then shut down the bot and repg and then load them both back up and connect them.

20) On RepG click Machine > Onboard Preferences. Click on the "Homing/VREFs". Ensure that the X and Y Home Offsets are somewhat near 151.998 and or 74.998. Also validate that the toolhead offsets (different than homing offsets) are either values less than 1.0mm (AKA 0.85 or something) or is a value less than 33.0mm (For Replicator Duals) and 35mm for Replicator 2X! In other words, if it's over 34mm( and we are taking an original wooden Replicator, or Greater than 35mm on a 2X) you are going to have a problem. Reset to 0 if the number is too large. Again, valid values are less than 1mm (0.88), less than 34mm (33.35) or (32.87). The real nozzle spacing is (33mm for Replicator Duals and 35mm for Replicator 2X) and the offset is the adjustment from that value. In the case of then entire measured number being given, it just uses that. Note that sometimes after an update, it is not uncommon to see the Tollhead offset be 10 times too large. In other words, over 300mm. Nothing on the bot is 300mm of travel so an offset of greater than 35mm on any bot is a sure sign you need to reset Toohead offsets to 0mm and commit.
 
21) On RepG click Machine > Onboard Preferences. Click Acceleration(Misc) and set right and left deprime values to 0.

You should be good now. You need to carefully level your build plate(a learned skill, may take you hours at first) and make sure you don’t slam your nozzles into the plate.

Now you should run the calibration script for the D4 in the file > scripts > Calibration -> Replicator 1 dual nozzle calibration. That will bring up gcode then you need to build that gcode for the sd card. Then put that x3g file on the sdcard and print it. Then put the correct lines into the bots consule as you see here: http://www.makerbot.com/support/replicator/troubleshooting/nozzle-align/

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ReplicatorG_Pypy_setup.pdf

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[Ryan Carlyle]

+1

Now we just need Tiffany to pin it...

[Jetguy]

FYI, Scott asked me a question why I posted this.

No, the MakerBot pages aren't going away but also have not been updated in forever. In some ways, the instructions were confusing and maybe you had to look for info like offsets in the troubleshooting section. This was an attempt to streamline the instructions and hopefully reduce user error, "I just updated and why does my machine now print off center or ram into the left side?". We KNOW why, they failed to follow step 18 and step 20.

Hopefully the guidance on CHECKING offsets, both toolhead and homing offsets will nip this novice errors in the bud.

It's really not that hard, but somehow folks find new ways to screw this up royally every time.

[tunell]

why pypy?

[Joseph Chiu]

Pypy is a faster Python interpreter - it does just-in-time compilation of the code which helps to speed up SkeinForge.

why pypy?

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[Scott D]

And +1 for the Tiffany pinning.

On Sunday, June 8, 2014 12:48:45 AM UTC-4, Ryan Carlyle wrote:

> ReplicatorG_Pypy_setup.pdf423 KB   View   Download

[Tom Chang]

I found this guide to be super helpful. Something went bad after my sailfish install, thank you for the guide!!!

[WifiGuru10]

Hey Jetguy, i'm playing with S3D and sailfish and it says "Your firmware does not support real-time extrusion multiplier changes." when i try to do some real-time extrusion mods. Do you have this on the roadmap or am I doing something wrong(quite possibly)?

Running 7.6

[Jetguy]

I covered this before, that feature ONLY exist in Reprap based firmware whihc does not run on any MakerBot.

 

Because simplify 3d can run nearly every printer on the market, some features in the control panel only work on SOME bots and that one will never work on a MakerBot.

[Dan Newman]

On 11/06/2014, 7:03 AM, WifiGuru10 wrote:
> Hey Jetguy, i'm playing with S3D and sailfish and it says "Your firmware
> does not support real-time extrusion multiplier changes." when i try to do
> some real-time extrusion mods. Do you have this on the roadmap or am I
> doing something wrong(quite possibly)?

See my prior post about why this is a silly control and will not be
implemented by inferrence. (On some bots which have had it in the past,
it's either been removed or carefully hidden deep down in LCD menus because
it's generally useless and real easy to ruin your print with. Tiny, tiny
changes cause over/under extrusion which ruins your print 2 hours later;
to stop it from ruining it at 90 minutes, you then have to make a BIG
change which then swings the pendulum violently the other way, now
ruining your print differently in 10 minutes. Etc.)

Dan

[WifiGuru10]

Hey Jetguy, trying to load 7.7 this morning but my mightyboard isn't loading the firmware via the USB. Had this issue when i bought it from MBOT, i think they might of disabled loading via USB. Had to reflash it with my AVRISPmkII.

Can't remember which firmware i used last time to get 7.6 on there. I beleive it was "might_one-2560-Sailfish-v7.6.0-r1220.hex", i also see a bunch of "mighty_two-....". Is that for mightboards H&G's?

Which one should i use for a CTC clone (replicator 1) with a 2560 mightyboard revE with the Max6675 chip? I"m guessing "mighty_one-2560-Sailfish-v7.7.0-r1310.hex". Can anyone confirm?

(btw, replicatorG hangs when i do the "upload firmware" command. Not sure why, tried on windows 8.1 x64 and windows 7 x86.)

thanks in advance

On Saturday, June 7, 2014 10:35:04 PM UTC-4, Jetguy wrote:

[Jetguy]

HINT, HINT, what processor do you have on a mightyboard from MBOT?

You just specified atmega 2560 firmware when a mightyboard (or clone) generally ships with 1280.

I think I see you saying you have a 2560 but want you to confirm it by looking at the main chip on the board.

Nobody can disable uploading via USB. What they can do is have the incorrect firmware on either the 8u2 (USB to serial converter), capacitor C20 not installed which doesn't auto reset in conjunction with the correct 8u2 firmware, and finally, the correct bootloader on the 2560.

Hold on, let me go to my other laptop and attach some files. You said you have an AVR programmer right?

[Jetguy]

NOTE, this is NOT part of the Sailfish install routine since this is a Sailfish install thread. This is, "I bricked my bot" or I cannot flash and killed my bootloader instructions to help those who bricked their board. This way you can go back and install firmware.

Just so we have these files somewhere and in one place.

The obvious- you need an AVR programmer (that supports avrdude flashing tool) to plug into the ICSP headers on the mainboard to program.

Special thanks to Dan Newman and Jake for some of these hex files and instructions along the way.

8u2 bootloader

See the attached files, copy to a folder you can navigate to easily. I normally just copy to the root of C since I do this so often, it's easy to paste the commands. (I had to zip avrdude sso unzip to C:)

You need 3 files: avrdude.exe, avrdude.conf (these 2 are the flashing tool), then the hex file (I copied to the root of my C  drive).

TO DOWNLOAD THE HEX FILE:
1. Connect the AVR ISP MKII compatible programmer to the 8U2 6 pin programming header
2. Ensure the Board is Powered
3. navigate to the directory containing the .hex file in the terminal
4. Execute the following avrdude command: avrdude -p at90usb82 -F -P usb -c avrispmkii -U flash:w:Makerbot-usbserial.hex -U lfuse:w:0xFF:m -U hfuse:w:0xD9:m -U efuse:w:0xF4:m -U lock:w:0x0F:m

Note, I'm using a genuine AVRMkII programmer from Atmel. You would need to know the correct avrdude name for your given programmer and change this piece of the above command string "avrispmkii"

OK, so that got the 8u2 in the correct state, now, we can work on the main processor

I use AVR Burn-O-Mat, GUI for AVRdue because I'm lazy and because  I do this so often  (OK, so I'm command line challenged myself- alright??)

Simply do the AVR dude configuration so it points to the previously copied AVR dude exe and conf files in C:, then choose your programmer, then choose USB as the port, then finally, check the box "disable auto erase for flash (-d)". Hit apply

On the main screen choose your processor 1280 or 2560.

Ensure the programmer is now plugged into the 1280 ICSP port

If you have a standard 1280 (anyone with a genuine MakerBot board has a 1280) then you flash this hex (ATmegaBOOT_168_atmega1280.hex)

Then flash the attached 2560 bootloader if you have a 2560 processor  (stk500boot_v2_mega2560.hex)

[Dan Newman]

On 14/06/2014, 5:08 AM, WifiGuru10 wrote:
> Hey Jetguy, trying to load 7.7 this morning but my mightyboard isn't
> loading the firmware via the USB. Had this issue when i bought it from
> MBOT, i think they might of disabled loading via USB. Had to reflash it
> with my AVRISPmkII.

MBot release some boards with 2560's as well. However, they put the
standard 2560 bootloader on it and that will not work. MBI designed
the board to require a bootloader which operates at a different baud
rate. So, you need to put the correct bootloader on. Jetguy included
it in his posting. You can also find it at,

https://github.com/dcnewman/MightyBoardFirmware-2560-bootloader

Jake Bordens actually is the one who did the research and work for that.

Dan

[WifiGuru10]

Thanks. Yeah the Mbot mightyboard is the 2560 model. When i first got it, it came with 7.5 and wouldn't load sailfish via ReplicatorG (as i've done before with the original clone board which was 1280). So i basically re-flashed both the 8u2 chip and 2560 chip with my avrispmkii. Just got 7.7 loaded but i'm going through the process again since i hadn't loaded the stk500 before. 

After the stk500boot_v2_mega2560.hex, do i load the sailfish hex next via USB not the ISP correct? Would this work?

"avrdude -F -p m2560 -P usb -c stk500v1 -b 57600 -U flash:w:mighty_one-2560-Sailfish-v7.7.0-r1310.hex"

I'm hoping i can fix the usb printing issue i have with 7.6 and S3D but also be able to load firmware via ReplicatorG in the future.

Thanks again.

[WifiGuru10]

There's got to be something wrong. Flash the 8u2 chip with the makerbot-usb-serial with all the right flags. The port is showing up as Com5 on my windows 7 laptop. Flashed the 2560 chip side with the stk500boot, and i can't flash via USB. Same issue I had before, replicatorG locks up and I keep getting "avrdude: stk500_getsync(): not in sync: resp=0x0" from the CLI. 

New sympton, Now i also have the overheat red LED on. Popped up after i flashed the board with the bootloader. Anyone know what this means?

Going to flash with the sailfish firmware directly, hopefully that'll fix it.

[Dan Newman]

On 14/06/2014, 10:39 AM, WifiGuru10 wrote:

> There's got to be something wrong. Flash the 8u2 chip with the
> makerbot-usb-serial with all the right flags. The port is showing up as
> Com5 on my windows 7 laptop. Flashed the 2560 chip side with the
> stk500boot, and i can't flash via USB.

Either your boot loader didn't take or it was the wrong bootloader.
You may need to include the chip erase switch, -e. However, that
does wipe your EEPROM. (Sailfish will re-init it for you when
it starts running.)

> New sympton, Now i also have the overheat red LED on. Popped up after i
> flashed the board with the bootloader. Anyone know what this means?

It doesn't mean anything. That LED is part of an abandoned circuit.

> Going to flash with the sailfish firmware directly, hopefully that'll fix
> it.

it won't change the bootloader issue.

Here's the little script I use,

#/bin/sh

AVRDUDE=/Users/dnewman/Desktop/ReplicatorG.app/Contents/Resources/tools/avrdude
AVRCONF=/Users/dnewman/Desktop/ReplicatorG.app/Contents/Resources/tools/avrdude.conf

ARCH=m2560
SRC=/Users/dnewman/git/MightyBoardFirmware-2560-bootloader/goodHexFiles/stk500boot_v2_mega2560.hex

#SPEED=57600
SPEED=115200

#PROG=stk500v2
PROG=usbtiny

#PORT=/dev/tty.usbmodem1451
PORT=usb

#FLAGS=-D
FLAGS=

set -x

$AVRDUDE -C $AVRCONF -c $PROG -P $PORT -p $ARCH -b $SPEED $FLAGS \
-Uflash:w:$SRC:i -v -v -v -v


Dan

[Dan Newman]

On 14/06/2014, 10:39 AM, WifiGuru10 wrote:

> There's got to be something wrong. Flash the 8u2 chip with the
> makerbot-usb-serial with all the right flags. The port is showing up as
> Com5 on my windows 7 laptop. Flashed the 2560 chip side with the
> stk500boot, and i can't flash via USB. Same issue I had before, replicatorG
> locks up and I keep getting "avrdude: stk500_getsync(): not in sync:
> resp=0x0" from the CLI.
>
> New sympton, Now i also have the overheat red LED on. Popped up after i
> flashed the board with the bootloader. Anyone know what this means?
>
> Going to flash with the sailfish firmware directly, hopefully that'll fix
> it.

I suppose it's also possible that some fuse bit isn't set correctly
(e.g., boot flash section not set to 8K -- "4096 words"). However,
playing with fuse bits is a good way to accidentally brick your AVR.
(Requires a "high voltage" programmer to undo some fuse bit settings.)

Dan

[WifiGuru10]

So Jetguy,

   Tried running through this process last weekend, and got stuck after loading the stk500boot_v2 firmware. I flash the 8u2 chip, done, pretty quick. Then i flash the 2560 chip with the stk500, which takes....FOREVER. Literally like 2 hours to complete, writing and reading et al. After flashing that, i just get a hung bot and the overheat LED stuck on (which now just tells me it's not booting anything or stuck in bootup). So I tried loading the Sailfish flash via USB, both via replicatorG and via CLI(avrdude) and get the ""avrdude: stk500_getsync(): not in sync: resp=0x0". I've done variations of hitting reset, then running the CLI command to the inverse, wondering if it's just my timing that's not working. 

   Ran through attempting to flash the bot a few times and then just gave up and loaded sailfish 7.7 directly via the programmer.

So, looking for guidance here on what i can try. I do know that i was unable to load firmware via the traditional ReplicatorG method when i got this new RevE board, worked fine on my old clone board. So that's why i purchased a programmer to try and remove what i thought to be a locked bootloader or something from Mbot3D. I originally used a USBasp_H6 board that has a MEGA8L chip on it, which (i know now) is far underpowered to flash a 2560. This was the cause of me originally bricking the bot, and led to me purchase the AVRISPmkii which did the trick and got my bot back up and running.

So, what are some next steps? 

Should i try erasing the chip completely and starting again?

What "should" happen after i get the bootloader loaded, should i see something on the screen, or is that just to allow me to load the sailfish via USB?
Is there any commands i can run to check my fuses on the chips and make sure they're set correctly?

Thanks in advance!

On Saturday, June 14, 2014 9:16:06 AM UTC-4, Jetguy wrote:

[Rich Webb]

IIRC, if you invoke AVRDude from the command line with just "avrdude -p m2560 -c avrisp2 -v" it will connect to the chip and dump some information from it, including the current fuse settings.

Two hours for it to load the application is way too long.

[Dan Newman]

On 19/06/2014, 9:03 AM, WifiGuru10 wrote:
> So Jetguy,
>
> Tried running through this process last weekend, and got stuck after
> loading the stk500boot_v2 firmware. I flash the 8u2 chip, done, pretty
> quick. Then i flash the 2560 chip with the stk500, which takes....FOREVER.

Never takes me more than about 8 minutes for the write and another 8 for the
read. That's using a USB based ISP programmer doing just the 2560. I don't
bother with the 8u2 unless I determine it needs changing.

> Ran through attempting to flash the bot a few times and then just gave
> up and loaded sailfish 7.7 directly via the programmer.

Did you first install C20 (0.1 uF, ceramic cap, rated 30V or more)?

> So that's why i
> purchased a programmer to try and remove what i thought to be a locked
> bootloader or something from Mbot3D.

I know that at least one person received a MBot3D board with a 2560 BUT
the standard 2560 bootloader which will not work with RepG and USB
downloads (baud rate mismatch).

> So, what are some next steps?
> Should i try erasing the chip completely and starting again?
> What "should" happen after i get the bootloader loaded, should i see
> something on the screen, or is that just to allow me to load the sailfish
> via USB?

With the correct bootloader,

https://github.com/dcnewman/MightyBoardFirmware-2560-bootloader/tree/master/goodHexFiles

and correct firmware in the 8u2, you should then be able to load firmware
via the USB connection on the bot with RepG. If you also have C20 installed,
then you should not even need to press the reset button. HOWEVER, it's
my understanding that the MBot3D boards already have C20 installed. As
such, you shouldn't have to install C20 yourself.

> Is there any commands i can run to check my fuses on the chips and make
> sure they're set correctly?

Run any of the freeware tools for reading/verifying/writing the fuses and
see what they are set to.

Dan

[WifiGuru10]

Should i unplug all the stepper motors / LCD or something when i program it?

[WifiGuru10]

Just checked on the C20, not installed, can i use one of these? Also how can you tell the anode from the cathode? or does polarity not matter on the small ones?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/30-x-0-1uF-50V-Ceramic-Disc-Capacitors-Free-Shipping-/250857558916?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a68469384

[WifiGuru10]

Disregard, just to confirm i've got a ceramic disc cap labeled "104" in my spare parts bin. That's a 0.1uF, should be fine correct? It's red and looks like the ones below. No idea how to tell it's voltage capability.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/100pcs-0-1uf-50V-104-100nf-DIP-Ceramic-Capacitor-Disc-/171331635535?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27e429494f

[Jetguy]

That would work, in this app, voltage is not critical. Ceramic is non-polarized so just get it connected to  the 2 pads and you are good.

 

That said, figure out why you are unable to program the 1280 or 2560 via the programmer. that sounds like a setting or other issue.

If you cannot program it via ICSP, we are kind of in a hole.

[Dan Newman]

On 19/06/2014, 10:34 AM, WifiGuru10 wrote:
> Should i unplug all the stepper motors / LCD or something when i program it?

No need to. You just have to be sure to power the motherboard via its PSU. If it
only gets power from the programmer, then programming likely will not work.

Dan

[Dan Newman]

On 19/06/2014, 10:38 AM, WifiGuru10 wrote:
> Just checked on the C20, not installed, can i use one of these? Also how
> can you tell the anode from the cathode? or does polarity not matter on the
> small ones?
>
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/30-x-0-1uF-50V-Ceramic-Disc-Capacitors-Free-Shipping-/250857558916?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a68469384

They'll work. You need to bend the leads a bit to get them on the pads
which are spaced maybe 2 mm apart? Maybe it's 3 mm, I don't recall.

Some caps are polarized (e.g., electrolytics and tants), and some aren't.
The ones you show are not polarized. And you do not need a polarized
cap for this application. So they will work.

Dan

[Gian Pablo]

This is interesting:

"21) On RepG click Machine > Onboard Preferences. Click Acceleration(Misc) and set right and left deprime values to 0."

I had these set to 8 on a Replicator and 16 on a ToM. Is no longer valid?

[Dan Newman]

On 19/06/2014, 10:44 AM, WifiGuru10 wrote:
> Disregard, just to confirm i've got a ceramic disc cap labeled "104" in my
> spare parts bin. That's a 0.1uF, should be fine correct? It's red and looks
> like the ones below. No idea how to tell it's voltage capability.
>
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/100pcs-0-1uf-50V-104-100nf-DIP-Ceramic-Capacitor-Disc-/171331635535?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27e429494f

In theory the cap will never see more than 5VDC. But since you do have a 24V psu
AND something bad might happen spilling 24V on to the 5V rail. Hence the
soft requirement to use a cap rated for at least 24V + 20%. You must not
use a cap rated 6V or less.

Dan

[WifiGuru10]

Ok, here's a dump of the fuses on the 2560 chip.

Anything jump out at anyone? 

On Thursday, June 19, 2014 12:41:28 PM UTC-4, Rich Webb wrote:

[Dan Newman]

On 19/06/2014, 1:12 PM, WifiGuru10 wrote:
> Ok, here's a dump of the fuses on the 2560 chip.
>
> Anything jump out at anyone?

My personal policy is to not advise people on fuse bits: you make
a mistake and your AVR is bricked. Put differently, either understand
fuse bits and don't need advice from others, or you don't and thus
shouldn't be changing them.

That said, your values look correct.

Dan

[Rich Webb]

Your SCK period looks awfully long. It equates to a programming clock of about 1 KHz, which may explain your exceedingly long programming times. The chip's crystal is 16 MHz and so it should be good with a 2 MHz (0.5 usec) SCK.

[WifiGuru10]

Ok, so now to track down a potential ID10t error.

So downloading everything fresh and going to reflash.

The md5sum of the bootloader i just downloaded is 58973dffb5c247d1e5dd6343fffb903f for the stk500boot_v2_mega2560.hex.

[WifiGuru10]

Sounds promising, any way i can change that? 

[Dan Newman]

On 19/06/2014, 1:33 PM, WifiGuru10 wrote:
> Sounds promising, any way i can change that?

avrdude -?

is another friend. Likely -B.

Dan

[Dan Newman]

The directions were likely aimed at new users who won't know how to make
a decision about using slicer retraction vs. firmware retraction.

Dan

[WifiGuru10]

I wish i could buy you all beers right now. That literally took less than a minute to write the bootloader, now to install the C20 and try for USB install ;P

btw, that's what happens when you buy used programmers off ebay ;P

[Dan Newman]

On 19/06/2014, 1:45 PM, WifiGuru10 wrote:
> I wish i could buy you all beers right now. That literally took less than a
> minute to write the bootloader, now to install the C20 and try for USB
> install ;P

Since you're working on small, closely spaced pads be sure to
inspect your soldering when you are done with a magnifying glass
and decent lighting. It's easy to have a solder bridge there.

Dan

[WifiGuru10]

Thanks for heads up, got me a 20x loop to validate. and checked continuity between the two pads. Everything seems groovy. Booted up and no magic smoke. 

So, flashed the bootloader (which now takes like a minute, which is epic) and then gave ReplicatorG a shot and uploading the firmware.....

guess what!? "Firmware Update Succeeded!!!" All without the carpal-tunnel-inducing reset button. Soooo happy right now, two gremlins in the machine tuned out in one day!

Thank you all for the wisdom!

[Dan Newman]

On 19/06/2014, 2:17 PM, WifiGuru10 wrote:
> Thanks for heads up, got me a 20x loop to validate. and checked continuity
> between the two pads. Everything seems groovy. Booted up and no magic
> smoke.
>
> So, flashed the bootloader (which now takes like a minute, which is epic)
> and then gave ReplicatorG a shot and uploading the firmware.....
>
> guess what!? "Firmware Update Succeeded!!!" All without the
> carpal-tunnel-inducing reset button. Soooo happy right now, two gremlins in
> the machine tuned out in one day!

Yes life without the reset button is indeed life worth living.
Well, it's a tad less frustrating at least. (I sometimes do
more than 20 firmware downloads to a single bot in a single
day. Probably even more than that back two years ago when we
were first experimenting with the acceleration code.)

Dan