Hi William,
Here are a few quick notes on how to use the IterativePathCuts.jsx script.
* Draw a path in InDesign.
* Set the measurement units of your document to mm.
* If the path contains curves, select the path and run the AddPoints.jsx script (which comes with InDesign and is installed by default) a few times. The idea here is to "flatten" the path--the script will create straight-line segments between the points of the path, ignoring any curves.
* Position the zero point where you want X 0, Y 0 on your CNC machine to be. I tend to use the lower-left corner of the page, and I tend to move my paths so that they start around 3 mm x 3 mm.
* With the path selected, run the IterativePathCuts.jsx script. The script will display a dialog box.
Here's a quick listing of the options:
Start Z: The height, measured from Z 0, to which you want to lower the router for its initial pass. I generally place this just above the surface of the material--it can help to do a "dry run" pass before you actually start cutting anything. Typically, when I'm cutting 1/4 inch acrylic, I'll start at 6mm, just above the surface.
Start X and Start Y: Best to leave these at zero, for now.
End Z: The vertical ending point for the cut. Set this to 0 to cut all of the way through the material, or some other value to create an indent.
Interim Z: The point to which to raise the rounter between passes. Usually, this should be some point above the surface of the material you're cutting.
Step: The vertical distance between passes. The point of this setting is to avoid (expensive!) broken router bits. The smaller (in diameter) the bit, the more passes it will take to cut the piece. In addition, the smaller you make the vertical step, the smoother the edges will typically be. I usually cut 1/4 inch acrylic in 1 mm passes with a 1.588 mm (i.e., 1/16th inch) bit.
* Once you've got the settings the way you want them, click the OK button. The script will display a standard file dialog box.
* Select a location and enter a name for the g-code file, giving it the file extension ".nc", then click the OK button to save the file.
At this point, you have a g-code file you can send to your CNC machine.
I typically have a first pass that cuts the outline of the shape to around 1 mm. Then I have another file that cuts *most of* the last 1 mm, but leaves a few "bridges" to keep the shape from moving. Then I have a third g-code file that cuts just those bridges away. Before I run the last file, I put duct tape over the shape to keep it from moving as the last bits of material are cut away. I'm mostly making pretty small pieces, and having them sucked up by my homemade ShopVac dust extractor is no fun.
The script does not compensate for the diameter of the router bit, so the cutting path you want should be offset from the original path by half of the diameter of the bit. I do this by making circles that are the same diameter as the router bit, then positioning the circles around the original path. I then run another script that connects the centers of the circles to create the cutting path.
Hope all that makes some sense!
Here's my newest "extended instrument". This video was made before I built the control circuitry onto the front of the guitar--it was all on a breadboard. I can now pick it up and improvise with different picking patterns. It's really fun to play with. I'm working on a controller that will make it easier for the right hand to change patterns, speed, and so on (right now, I have to hit keys on a laptop).
http://youtu.be/ee-wHcjO1lUPlease pardon the 10 seconds of "dead air" at the start of the video. I tried to edit it out with Adobe Premiere but ended up with a video that looked and sounded much worse and took up twice the space on disk. Typical.
Earlier versions hammered on the strings using solenoids as actuators--this one uses small gearmotors to push picks back and forth. Timing accuracy seems good to about 360 beats per minute (with 16th notes). The video above is at around 40 bpm.
Thanks,
Ole