FPD2 - Assembling

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Christian Lerche

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Sep 13, 2014, 7:01:55 PM9/13/14
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Yay! 

I got around to beginning assembling the FPD2! 

I have some minor details I need to fix: 

Rods aren't long enough (just 5mm too short), 
and I turned the ATC head 180 degrees!!

I also need to switch all the 10mm M5 screws that holds the aluminium top and bottom with 12mm.. 
The local hardware store didn't have any, so I need to find something either online, or cut the 16mm I have.

But anyway the movement is smooth by hand, I only need to drill holes for the wires to come through. 
Also, I need some long M3 screws for the opto-interrupter mount. But I'll have them monday. 

I'm naming it "Rainbowey" for the many colors used for 3D printing, 

I'm really looking forward to assemble the RAMPS and Arduino to get it going. 
I was originally going for a board of my own design, called 3DPCB, but instead I will stay with the RAMPS. 

Anyways, this journey is FUN! 

I'm looking forward to seeing people's machines online! :D

Regards, 
Lerche

FPD2 - Assembling.jpg

Karl

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Sep 13, 2014, 7:19:04 PM9/13/14
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That's wonderful that you are settled in your new place and joining the fun. As I look at your picture I know realize that I should maybe put the bolts in for the motor plate at each corner. I was wondering what those holes are for...  :)

Christian Lerche

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Sep 13, 2014, 7:21:38 PM9/13/14
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Hey Karl. 

Thanks man, it's great to have some space to do things again ! 

Oh, the plastic will probably do just fine, but for rigidity I think the M8 bolts are nice to have ;-) 

How's your machine coming along?

Karl Lew

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Sep 13, 2014, 7:30:05 PM9/13/14
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It's mooooving with pronterface. Now I need  to make it do delta calcs on the Pi.

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Christian Lerche

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Sep 14, 2014, 5:15:44 AM9/14/14
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Uhh, sounds nice!!

Does it really matter if they're done on the Pi instead of the RAMPS?

Karl Lew

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Sep 14, 2014, 10:31:08 AM9/14/14
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We are assuming that the cumulative error of assembly and manufacture will make it necessary to perform lots of calculations for error compensation. Our worry is that the Arduino pretty much has its hands full already. However, it would make sense to write the code in a modular way so that it could be included into RAMPS.

On Sun, Sep 14, 2014 at 2:15 AM, Christian Lerche <lerch...@gmail.com> wrote:
Uhh, sounds nice!!

Does it really matter if they're done on the Pi instead of the RAMPS?
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Christian Lerche

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Sep 18, 2014, 10:40:34 AM9/18/14
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Issues:
Opto-endstop didn't work. - Keep banging the arm into the opto, over-current protection from DRV8825. 
Solution:
Paint the darn Opto-interrupter that sits on the end of arm. 
This apperantly had some minopr holes which I couldn't see at all, but after a black paint layer over it, no issues at all. 

Next issue: 
When moving X and Y axis, it does like a curve form with the end-effector. 
I think this has to do with the delta setup in config, but I'll have to read up on how that works. 

Anyways, IT'S ALIVE! :D

Karl Lew

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Sep 18, 2014, 2:30:25 PM9/18/14
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Yay!  We have four moving FirePick Deltas! (Neil, Mike, Karl, Christian)

Christian Lerche

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Sep 25, 2014, 2:14:53 PM9/25/14
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Karl

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Sep 25, 2014, 2:18:38 PM9/25/14
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THAT is priceless.

Nice work, Christian. This is AMAZING. Thanks for making my day!

Christian Lerche

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Sep 25, 2014, 2:21:41 PM9/25/14
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No problem :) I'll do some more calibration tomorrow, so I can print nice parts :)

And thank you for doing awesome software for Pi! And thank Neil, for doing awesome robots!

Build envelope with this setup is 200x200x64.5 - mm that is :)

Michael Stegen

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Sep 25, 2014, 3:03:58 PM9/25/14
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Excellent work! 
Are you using marlin software for the delta calculations?

Op 25 sep. 2014 20:21 schreef "Christian Lerche" <lerch...@gmail.com>:
No problem :) I'll do some more calibration tomorrow, so I can print nice parts :)

And thank you for doing awesome software for Pi! And thank Neil, for doing awesome robots!

Build envelope with this setup is 200x200x64.5 - mm that is :)

Christian Lerche

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Sep 25, 2014, 3:06:18 PM9/25/14
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Hey Mike.

Yeah, the Marlin is found under the Firepick github. Neil did the Marlin fork, and it works like charm. Some calibration isnneeded to make it fit my particular machine, but yeah, it's working :)

Christian Lerche

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Sep 27, 2014, 7:24:10 AM9/27/14
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FPD-002 is 3D printing as seen in the video above. 

Now it's more or less calibrated (some changes may be necessary, as I need to learn about delta kinematics and bowden extrusion). 

But as seen below, Pronterface is sending commands to Marlin, and it's printing a new bearing block (3D0001). Not that I need one, 
but this proves that it is a machine able to reproduce it self. 

My bowden setup is a hacked version of Wade's geared, mounted on top of FPD-002, using a Quick-grip to have enough force on the pulley to actually not slip on the filament. 
Another Quick-grip is used to mount a 8MM smooth rod off the top side, to hold a filament spool. 

My bowden is twisted, and it might have some tight spots, but heck, it's working :D 

Pictures of it printing the bearing block, and the bearing block after. 

Regards,
Lerche
Bearing block - Printed on FPD-002.jpg
FPD-002 - 3D Printing new bearing block.jpg

ICEC

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Sep 27, 2014, 7:34:22 AM9/27/14
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Looking good . 

May I ask wich hot end you are using ? and where to got it from ?
Ill be also needing the feeder for the filament, but cant really find it , could you point me to the right link ?

Christian Lerche

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Sep 27, 2014, 7:46:49 AM9/27/14
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Hi, ICEC. 

Yeah, I using a Bowden J-head 0.4mm from www.reprap.me <- It's a danish reprap supplier. 

The feeder is one I got with my first 3D printer, so I actually can't send you any link, because I don't know what file is was printed from. 
- But if you search Thingiverse, you'll get a lot of Bowden / Wade's makes. 

I hope this is answer enough for you.

Regards, 
Lerche

Neil Jansen

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Sep 27, 2014, 8:35:37 AM9/27/14
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Hotends.com is the U.S. supplier of the J-Head, and is the original designer of it.  There are lots of Chinese knock-offs out there, of questionable quality.  If you see one with four flutes on the heatsink, that's a knockoff.  Brian's original design had five flutes.  A genuine run should run $50-60.  There are American-made clones out there (J-Head Lite) for about $16-20 USD, that print OK in ABS but don't print in PLA as well.

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ICEC

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Sep 27, 2014, 8:37:29 AM9/27/14
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Thanks for the tips. 

I was thinking of using one of these 2 (links below) , mainly so I can order most of the parts in one place.


from your comments i guess the second (J-Head) is the best on right ?

Ill google the feeder when im closer to printing one, seems to be allot of designs out there , Didn't the firepick team chose a design to go with the FPD ? or are we still mainly focusing on the Pick & Place side of the build ?
and for the steppermotor in the feeder , is that also a NEMA 17 like the ones used to move the head ?, e.g. http://www.robotdigg.com/product/6/NEMA17-Stepper-Motor-34mm-Long,-0.8A

Thanks 


Neil Jansen

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Sep 27, 2014, 9:01:36 AM9/27/14
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Even though the 2D print/drawing on the RobotDigg site shows fire flutes, I'm reasonably sure that it's still a clone that doesn't meet specifications that might have issues.  If you google for j-head blog, you'll find a few posts by Brian that shows the differences between a genuine and a clone.  Some clones might only last a day, others might last years... it's hard to tell. That's why I always buy from Brian :)  I've printed probably 50 pounds of plastic, on the same genuine J-Head hotend, and have not had one failure yet. 

The all-metal one, if you look closely, has an interchangable Makerbot Mk7-style nozzle.  Those can have lots of issues (but not always).  What happens is that the melted filament gets this little toroidal 'plug' where it goes from the tube through the block to the nozzle, and that causes friction, causing a lot of jamming issues... it also makes rebuilding them an issue if you're not careful.

Re: your comments about feeders.  Are you asking about SMT component feeders for PnP, or are you referring to the Wade's style extruder?  This is the extruder I use for everything: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:18379  However, you need to change the hotend mount to a BSP push-to-fit connector, for a bowden tube.  I'll be checking this in later at some point, but I need to concentrate this weekend on our next milestone.

Re: the NEMA 17 motor.  Don't go with that one, as it's underpowered and doesn't have a flattened shaft for holding a set screw.  Go with this one: http://www.robotdigg.com/product/7/NEMA17-Stepper-Motor-40mm-Long,-1.2A for delta steppers and extruder, or this one: http://www.robotdigg.com/product/29/Nema17-60mm-1.5A-high-torque-stepper-motor (high torque version) for the 3x delta steppers.  Here's the one for the PnP rotational SMT vacuum end effector tool: http://www.robotdigg.com/product/43/Nema8-Hollow-Shaft-Stepper-Motor




ICEC

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Sep 27, 2014, 10:01:42 AM9/27/14
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Now thats a good set of info, Thanks

Brian extruders , do you have a link orso where i can order it from him too ? ill probably want the good one indeed, few bucks more is worth the hassle

You have to excuse me for not knowing the variances in the common names, e.g. MK7 , j-head etc , I didn't have any 3d printing experience , but I am learning fast :p

For the feeder , I was referring to the extruder feeder. so thanks for the link, ill have to figure out what your meaning with the BSP push to fit connector , but that should not be a problem 
and now i know which stepper motors are needed , So if im correct ill be buying 

1x  (PnP rotational SMT vacuum end effector)  http://www.robotdigg.com/product/43/Nema8-Hollow-Shaft-Stepper-Motor

for the SMT component feeder was there a stepper motor needed for that too ? i though the vacuum pin did the dragging so that no stepper motor was needed , else i just ad another one for this purpose 
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