1985 Schwinn Le Tour Luxe

[Ray Riendeau]

Hello All,

             I was wondering if anyone knows how, or what kind of wheels, I would ask for, if I wanted to get new wheels, for my 85 Schwinn Le Tour Luxe??  The current wheels are 27" Weinman Quick Release wheels. The bike has MAILLARD ATOM 77 5-Speed 14-16-19-23-28  that is from the catalog of Schwinn, with details of the bike.  Mine is 25" Frame, biggest they made.  But I thought my bike was a 15 Speed, or 18 speed, not a 10 speed.  Do these numbers indicate 10 speed??  If so, could I get a better, or different gear cog and dreailers to make the gears better for hills, etc...because I had knee surgeries, and sometimes when I finish riding, my knee gets sore.  I appreciate any advice.  I hope I provided the proper info.  If not, here is a link to the Catalog page, mine is the Le Tour Luxe, in Yellow Background print.  Thanks, Ray

P.S.  Here is Link: http://www.trfindley.com/flschwinn_1981_1990/1985Ltwt31.html

[Ray Riendeau]

Hello,

              Yes, here is the other Catalog page for the 1985 Le Tour Luxe, this page tells a small bit about the bike, along with Photo, it does state 15 Speeds...here are the pages....

http://www.trfindley.com/flschwinn_1981_1990/1985Ltwt15.html and

http://www.flickr.com/photos/swoosh/

 

                                                             Thanks Alot, Ray

 

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Bicycle Lifestyle" group.
To post to this group, send email to bicyclel...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to bicyclelifesty...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/bicyclelifestyle?hl=en.

[Taylor Winfield]

Ray,   Exactly why do you want new wheels?   If you want to get rid of the 27" tires (in favour of 700c), you are limited in your choice of rims if you want to retain the 40 spoke rear hubs. Not an insurmountable problem, IMHO.   If you want a whole new wheel set, you don't need to deal with the 40 spoke rim problem. However you do need to decide if you want a freewheel or a freehub rear.   In the real world, you might be best served by a new set of wheels built up around 36 hole freewheel Campagnolo hubs which are easy to find, even in NOS condition. I'd say in C Record grade because they are roughly contemporary with your bike. But any 36 hole Campy freewheel hub will work, so far as I know.   What crank have you got now? How many teeth on the chainwheels? If the chainwheels are bolt on, they are some standard bolt pattern and you should be able to find smaller chainwheels to fit the crank to give your knees a break. John Alldredge --- On Mon, 12/13/10, Ray Riendeau <rayr...@gmail.com> wrote:

[Fai Mao]

I would ditch those hubs. Malliard hubs often had a non standard axle
threading that means if you bend or break an axle you'l have an almost
impossible time getting a new one as the company is out of business
and the hubs were never that common. If you are keeping it friction
then any brand hub will work and while it is nice to have it all
"period" correct a set of 105 or DT Swiss would not be noticed though
you'd have to have the rear respaced which no big deal on a steel
bike.

[Jon]

Ray,

Your bike, if it has not been modified, is a 15 speed, with 3
chainrings in front and a 5-cog freewheel in the back. The low gear
is pretty low, so unless you are climbing very steep hills or carrying
a load, getting lower gears may not be the answer. It may be a matter
of changing your riding style (such as when you shift, whether you
stand up while pedaling) or the bike fit (mainly the seat height).
But as John said, you can probably put lower gears (smaller chainrings
in front) on the bike if that is the issue. There are also wider-
range freewheels. Harris Cyclery has a good selection of these.
(You’ll probably need a new chain when you replace the freewheel.) It
looks like your bike has an old-fashioned “half-step plus granny”
gearing setup (with the 46T middle chainring very close in size to the
50T large ring, thus the “half step”). This is less commonly used
today. It may be your problem is that the middle ring is a bit big,
causing you to tend pedal in higher gears than you should. The
solution is to downshift.

I have a Schwinn Letour from 1988, also with inexpensive Maillard hubs
and 27 inch wheels. They are a bit of a pain. The hub cones are hard
to adjust (it’s tricky to reach the cones), seem to drift out of
adjustment, and I bent a front axle (something I’ve never done
before). So I don’t think they are great quality, and if you get new
wheels, I’d replace them, as suggested by John. 27-inch tires are
relatively hard to find, though you can still get them. I decided not
to do a 700C conversion because of the cost and the need to replace
the brakes (700C wheels are smaller than 27”, so I would have had to
buy brakes with longer reach to get to the rims). However, if you do
decide to get new wheels, you need to get hubs with the correct
spacing (the distance between the inner faces of the two rear
dropouts). It was either 120 or 126 mm in 1985; I’m not sure when
they switched. Most current road hubs are 130 mm, but there are
plenty of old 126 mm hubs out there. (I don’t know if you can squeeze
a 130 mm hub into a 126 mm frame without first having the frame
“spread” by someone who knows how; I would not recommend putting a 130
mm hub into a 120 mm frame unless it’s been spread.) You will also
need to decide if you want to stick with a freewheel system or change
to the more modern cassette. Harris’s web site explains the
difference.

Because 700C wheels are smaller, and you have cantilever brakes, there
may be issues with getting the brakes to reach the rims with a
different wheel size. I am not an expert on that, but please check to
see if this will work before you invest in the wheels. With caliper
brakes, you can just get brakes with longer arms, but cantilevers are
different. If you need new wheels and must stick with 27 inch, Harris
Cyclery has those rims. But as John suggested, it's not clear that
new wheels are the answer here; I am guessing the cost-effective
change may be a new freewheel (and chain).

I am not a real expert on all this stuff. I responded because of my
experience with the Letour. As you can see, there is a lot to it. If
you need new wheels, freewheel, chainrings, brakes, and a frame
modification, you may start to consider whether it is cost-effective
to pour money into an older bike that is of decent but not spectacular
quality. Of course, I don’t know your budget or how much you like
this bike. If you have a good shop nearby, they should be able to
help, and there are enough issues that if you just start buying stuff
on line, you may wind up with “bargains” you can’t use. If there is a
club in your area, fellow members can be a good source of information,
too.

Sorry to go on so long and to sound like an advertisement for Harris,
but they do have a lot of info on the site, and a lot of stuff for
older bikes. I hope this was useful.

Jon

[Steve Palincsar]

On Mon, 2010-12-13 at 18:40 -0800, Fai Mao wrote:
> I would ditch those hubs. Malliard hubs often had a non standard axle
> threading that means if you bend or break an axle you'l have an almost
> impossible time getting a new one as the company is out of business
> and the hubs were never that common. If you are keeping it friction
> then any brand hub will work and while it is nice to have it all
> "period" correct a set of 105 or DT Swiss would not be noticed though
> you'd have to have the rear respaced which no big deal on a steel
> bike.

When they broke would be an excellent time to do that. Staying with the
"period correct" theme, the best replacement would be a Phil.

[WillemJ]

This is not a bike to spend a fortune on, so I would keep what you
have. If the gearing is still stock you have 30t front and 28 t at the
back. That should get you up most hills as long as you are not taking
much luggage. If and when the front chainwheels are worn, you can
replace them by somewhat smaller ones depending on the bcd, bolt
circle diameter - it may be an obsolete size but I guess not).
Similarly, ird do a wider 5 speed gearing: http://www.interlocracing.com/freewheels_steel.html
I would avoid the complexities of different wheels, resetting the
frame for wider modern hubs etc. If it works, it works.
Willem

[Ray Riendeau]

Hi Guys,

                Im getting a little confused.  The teethset I thought were labled on the links I posted, showing the Details/Specs of the 1985 Le Tour Luxe from the Schwinn catalog.  I posted 2 links...one has all the details, its a 15 speed, and it shows the teeth/gear ratio pattern....As for the new rims, not just tires, I figured a new gear pattern/teeth...would ease up on my knees...I dont know.  Im a newbie, no tech.  Also, I do like the look of some of the newer/thicker rims, that feel very strong, and look so much thicker where the brake pad comes in contact.  Maybe wider, not thicker, and spokes feel sturdier.  I see them on newer Fuji's and others, like Giant, etc..   I figured Id stay with Gears, instead of Freewheels, because, then I can switch going up hills, to easier gears...whereas freewheel, your stuck in one gear always, right??  Like a Coaster brake bike used to be, with no gears???  Is that what you mean in the previous post to the one im responding to?  Thanks, Ray

[Taylor Winfield]

OK, Ray,   When you said your bike was a ten speed (not a 15 as shown on the 1985 Schwinn spec sheets from the catalog), I assumed that you may have a non-stock crank.   If you build new wheels (whether or not you keep your original hubs), you MIGHT be able to use wider rims but you must check fork to tire and frame to tire clearances carefully. As well, you must have brakes which will work with wider tires.   As an educated guess, you should be able to get away with rims that will take 700 x 35c tires. Your stock tires were 32mm wide nominally (27 x 1-1/4") so that's not much of an improvement.   I agree with others that Maillard hubs are problems just waiting to happen. I stand by my original advice to go with Campagnolo 36 holers.   Mavic T224 36 rims have worked well for me, will take 35mm wide tires, aren"t expensive and your LBS can get "em. John Alldredge

--- On Tue, 12/14/10, Ray Riendeau <rayr...@gmail.com> wrote:

From: Ray Riendeau <rayr...@gmail.com> Subject: Re: {BL} Re: 1985 Schwinn Le Tour Luxe To: bicyclel...@googlegroups.com

[Peter F]

There's some confusion here. Freewheels and freehubs both have gears
of varying sizes. The differences are in the internal constructions.
You're confusing them with a single speed or fixed gear bike.
Definitely recommend you read this article, which lays them out fairly
clearly:

http://sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html

FWIW, I did some modifications on my 1980 Schwinn Le Tour, which no
doubt is slightly different than yours. After using the original hubs
and 27" wheels for a while and breaking several rear axles, I switched
to 700c 32mm wheels and a six gear free hub in the back. To fit these
I had to re-space the frame, but this wasn't all that hard, using the
Sheldon Brown's directions, also on the above website. Any bike shop
could do it very easily. The original U brakes had just enough reach
for the new wheels so I didn't have to replace them, just the old
brake pads. I replaced the bottom bracket and front crank with a
sealed bearing shimano unit and double chainring, 39-53 (I think, but
I'd have to check).

It's been virtually maintenance free since then. I know I spent more
on the parts and renovation than the frame is worth by far, but I've
had the bike since freshman year of college over 20 years ago so it's
got sentimental value, plus it's a great ride for running errands
around town. It's kind of a stealth bike since it's got decent parts
and rides great, but the frame is scratched to heck and doesn't look
like much when it's parked on the street.

One thing that might or might not be an issue for your frame is the
handlebar stem. In 1980 they were still using an odd size quill which
has become virtually impossible to find these days. I've got one
replacement in storage, but if they were still using the odd size in
1985, and you ever break your stem or want to change it you may be out
of luck.

Best of luck with your modifications. These old Schwinns are solid,
reliable rides, if not particularly flashy or light weight. Enjoy!

Peter
NYC

> > bicyclelifesty...@googlegroups.com<bicyclelifestyle%2Bunsubscrib e...@googlegroups.com>
> > .

[Ray Riendeau]

Hello and Thanks to Both of you Guys for the Detailed Explanations, and Help.  My 1985 Le Tour Luxe isnt all that heavy, but very Solid.  Its about 24-25 pounds.  And in 1985, Schwinn's had changed the Stem Quill Size to the more Universal.  because prior to this question, I had asked about changing to FlatBars, with Bar End Shifters, and New Brakes.  The Problem I would have with this 1985 Le Tour is, they used Braze On Bosses for the Dia-Compe Brakes...and there is only one set of brakes today that will work with these Bosses, in order for the brakes to reach the Rims....I heard its a real pain in the butt.  The Dia-Compe 960 Brakes are pretty unique.....I think you may have heard of this issue on the Bosses, with the 960's...this has been an issue with bikers that had the vey same brakes on 1985 Fuji, Trek and some others, like Panasonic's of the same time period.  There is a set of Brakes that begins with a S...cant remember the company, but they are supposed to work with the Bosses that the Dia Compe 960 Brake are Bolted into on the Frames of all these 1985 bike frames, such as the Schwinn Le Tour Luxe, Traveler, World Sport, and some others.....The Braze on Bosses that the Brakes attach to are not so universal, as they were on your model of the Le Tour.  However the Frames of these 1985 Schwinn Le Tour, Fuji, and Trek's are all well spoken for ChromAlloy Frames. And Sheldon Brown has an article praising these year model frames as being as good, or even better than current Road/Touring Bike Frames that are on the market today.  I am not a Tech though, and would have to get my LBS to do the work that you suggested here, with Freewheel change,  I liked the newer wheels, because I went into a LBS recently, and saw the Tech, Truing up the Spokes on a Surrey Bike, and the Wheels were so darn nice Looking, I would have loved to have had then on my Bike, but with Gears.....the Surrey Bike Wheels he was Truing Up, were to a Non Geared Commuter Bike, that was Brand New, at least they looked brand new...You may know what I mean about the Dia Compe 960 Brakes that are on my 85 Le Tour Luxe...Thanks, Ray

 

 

     But,

To unsubscribe from this group, send email to bicyclelifesty...@googlegroups.com.

[Steve Palincsar]

On Wed, 2010-12-15 at 10:52 -0500, Ray Riendeau wrote:
> Hello and Thanks to Both of you Guys for the Detailed Explanations,
> and Help. My 1985 Le Tour Luxe isnt all that heavy, but very Solid.
> Its about 24-25 pounds. And in 1985, Schwinn's had changed the Stem
> Quill Size to the more Universal. because prior to this question, I
> had asked about changing to FlatBars, with Bar End Shifters, and New
> Brakes.

And why would you be wanting to change to new brakes? Is it because you
are thinking of changing to 700C wheels and believe the existing
DiaCompe 960s won't reach the additional 4mm?

If so, I think you should go back to the basic question, why change from
635 to 622 (i.e., 27" to 700C) in the first place? Although the range
of available tires in 27" is not as great as in 700C, it's perfectly
adequate, especially for the use you'd be likely to put this bike to.
Whatever improves you require -- you've spoken of a desire to get lower
gears, for example -- can be provided with 27" wheels just as well as
with 700C. Furthermore, my #1 choice for a tire for a bike like this
would be the Pasela, and it's available with identical construction in
both 27" and 700C.

Some have spoken negatively about the Maillard hubs on your bike.
However if they're OK now, whether they might fail in future or not, I
see no point in upgrading them now. You have, after all, owned this
bike for 25 years and they haven't failed so far, and I would expect
your goal is to make this bike more functional, rather than just spend a
lot of money on upgrades that don't contribute to enhanced
functionality.

Even if you at some point need to replace the hubs or rims or even the
entire wheel you still don't /have/ to convert to 700C.

If, on the other hand, there's something actually wrong with the brakes,
maybe the best bet would be to try to source another set of the same
brakes on ebay. That would sidestep any issues with unique canti
bosses. However, brakes are generally quite reliable and usually last
for the lifetime of the frame (or the owner), and generally can be
upgraded (in terms of functionality) quite cheaply with new pads and
cables.

However, I don't recall your mentioning braking as an issue that
troubled you.

> The Problem I would have with this 1985 Le Tour is, they used Braze On
> Bosses for the Dia-Compe Brakes...and there is only one set of brakes
> today that will work with these Bosses, in order for the brakes to
> reach the Rims....I heard its a real pain in the butt. The Dia-Compe
> 960 Brakes are pretty unique.....I think you may have heard of this
> issue on the Bosses, with the 960's...this has been an issue with
> bikers that had the vey same brakes on 1985 Fuji, Trek and some
> others, like Panasonic's of the same time period. There is a set of
> Brakes that begins with a S...cant remember the company, but they are
> supposed to work with the Bosses that the Dia Compe 960 Brake are
> Bolted into on the Frames of all these 1985 bike frames, such as the
> Schwinn Le Tour Luxe, Traveler, World Sport, and some others.....The
> Braze on Bosses that the Brakes attach to are not so universal, as
> they were on your model of the Le Tour. However the Frames of these
> 1985 Schwinn Le Tour, Fuji, and Trek's are all well spoken for
> ChromAlloy Frames. And Sheldon Brown has an article praising these
> year model frames as being as good, or even better than current
> Road/Touring Bike Frames that are on the market today. I am not a
> Tech though, and would have to get my LBS to do the work that you
> suggested here, with Freewheel change,

Indeed, and changing a freewheel is trivial for a bike shop and if it
isn't, you need a new shop. If they look at it, don't recognize it as a
freewheel and say "What the f**k is that???" it's time to find a new
shop.

> I liked the newer wheels, because I went into a LBS recently, and saw
> the Tech, Truing up the Spokes on a Surrey Bike, and the Wheels were
> so darn nice Looking, I would have loved to have had then on my Bike,
> but with Gears.....

You sound as though you are suffering from bike lust regarding those
wheels. I'd advise you forget about them. Going down that road will
open up a can of worms: it will cost you much more than this bike is
worth, and won't contribute one iota towards helping you get up the
hills.

Routine maintenance for a bike this old is going to include lubrication
of the bearings, replacement of the cables and housings, new tires and
tubes, new brake pads and probably new bar tape as well. In your case,
to get lower gears I'd recommend a new freewheel and chain as well
whether the existing one is worn enough to need replacement or not.

That's probably enough money to invest in this bike anyway -- it's not
like this is a classic that's worth that much -- and it ought to make
the bike perfectly functional, at least as good and maybe better than it
was when it was new. If you're used to braking from the hoods and this
bike has the old-style non-aero brake levers I'd upgrade them as well.
Add a wash and a wax and call it done, don't turn this into a money pit.

[Jon]

Ray -

Now you have gotten a wide variety of contradictory opinions, from
keeping what you've got to upgrading now.

I am inclined to agree with Willem and Steve that you might as well
keep the wheels unless there is a problem with them. In fact, I did
pretty much what Steve suggested for my old Letour. I replaced the
bent axle on my Maillard front hub, and a standard Shimano axle (free
at my local shop) fit fine. There are better wheels out there than
yours, but unless you are planning on travel to remote areas, I don't
think you have to replace these now. Mine required frequent truing at
first but seem to have stabilized.

If you want to change the gearing and the chainrings are not badly
worn, a new freewheel (and a new chain at the same time) is a good way
to do it. You'll need a new chain because a worn chain will skip on a
new freewheel, not because it affects the gearing. Be sure to read
the article Peter F mentioned on freewheels. A freewheel usually has
5, 6, or 7 cogs. It is a device that screws onto the hub body, holds
all the cogs, and allows coasting. Newer hubs have the coasting
mechanism built into the hub (freehub) itself rather than into the
freewheel, and the cogs (also called a casette) slide onto that part
of the hub.

As Steve said, why replace brakes if they are working? If you switch
to 700C wheels, the issue is going to be whether you can get the
brakes to work properly with the slightly smaller wheels. That is the
sort of thing the late Sheldon Brown might have had in his head, but
hardly anybody else (not me) can tell without doing a test on the bike
itself. If you do choose to buy new wheels, and 700C will fit, it'll
be easier to get tires. But I would not buy new wheels just for that
reason.

Like I said before, if you are going too slow or have sore knees, it's
probably the rider more than the bike. (I know that's true for me.)
Somebody once said that Eddy Merckx would go faster than me if he were
on a flat-tired Sting-Ray, towing a walrus. Some changes in riding
style may help more than changes in equipment. If you can, join a
club, take a bike repair class - learn from others. It's a lot easier
to understand the explanations when someone can demonstrate the
principles to you on your own bike.

Jon

[Ray Riendeau]

You are totally Right On, in all that you have said.  As for the Brakes, they are making loud screaching noise when I apply them.  The levers are on the U Turn of the Handlebars. They are not the Old Fashioned Schwinn Dual Hand Grip Levers, just the vertical brake lever, that you have to lean down to squeeze, like in a racing position.  That is why I considered FlatBar, and Raised Seat.  I hurt my back, as well as knee surgeries when I was in accident.  So, riding a more upright position would be a big help to me.  And the LBS showed me a New Stem Quill, that would allow me to raise the current handlebars, instead of switching everything with Flat bar, and bar End Shifters, etc...

 

             The way that replaciing brakes came up, was, I told one of the LBS about the screaching, which im sure is due to the pads hardening due to oxidation. The pads are not worn out at all, just original.  So they screech when they contact rims.  The LBS owner said, Oh, well, I could replace the Brakes with something like these new Brakes on this Giant Touring Bike, it was a 2010 Model, and he said the brakes would stop on a dime, much better than mine.  He didnt even see mine, just commented.  I agree with you, the brakes on the New Model Giant Bike, may be better/newer than my Dia Compe 960's, but mine arent defective, and they do stop for me. Stop pretty well, just probably need new pads, cables, and adjustments...

 

          I would like to ride more upright though, due to the Back problems I have.  And one LBS quoted me a price of $80.00 to do a full TuneUp, replace all cables, Re-Route the Shifters to the Flat Bar End Shifters, and Lubricate, Adjust, and Tru Up Spokes, Adjust DerAiler, etc...Full Scale Tune Up, and all Parts Included, Flat bar, Cables, Brake pads, etc...all for the $80.00 and be done in a day.  I dont know the quality of the components.  He said he would use Dia Compe to Re-Route to the Flat Bar.  The Other LBS I went to, suggested a Full Tune Up, for $30.00, replacing cables, etc...and all adjustments...but instead of FlatBar, he said that the new Stem Quill, that would allow me to raise my current Handlebars, to ride more Upright, and that part is about $50.00, so the price would also equal $80.00 also.  I just replaced my Tires, with Standard Kendra Gumwall new 27" Tires and Tubes.  So, all I really NEED...is a Good Tune Up, and the Possible changing of the Freewheel, and More UpRight Riding Position, and I should be Good to go.  My Schwinn Generator has new Bulbs in it, I just replaced, and its Very Bright at night, so Im happy with the Vintage Generator Light Set, from 1985 or so.  All of this was new, as I Ordered, and Owned this Bike since Brand New, and Have Kept it that way...it looks Immaculate.  And is a Fairly Lightweight Bike, the Frame is very Similar to Fuji, Trek and panasonics of the same model year, 1985. 24 pound is listed in the catalog.  Thanks, Ray

--

[Steve Palincsar]

On Wed, 2010-12-15 at 12:29 -0500, Ray Riendeau wrote:
> You are totally Right On, in all that you have said. As for the
> Brakes, they are making loud screaching noise when I apply them.

Brakes squealing is not a reason to replace brakes, and shame on anybody
who might have suggested you need to do something as drastic as that for
such a trivial reason.

> The way that replaciing brakes came up, was, I told one
> of the LBS about the screaching, which im sure is due to the pads
> hardening due to oxidation. The pads are not worn out at all, just
> original. So they screech when they contact rims.

Agreed. After all this time, those aged pads probably should be
replaced on general principles. However, squealing is often a matter of
pad adjustment, and if you don't already know it you will learn in time,
old-style cantilever brakes with smooth post pads have more range of
adjustment which means more ways the brakes can get the sort of
misalignment that causes brake squeal.

> The LBS owner said, Oh, well, I could replace the Brakes with
> something like these new Brakes on this Giant Touring Bike, it was a
> 2010 Model, and he said the brakes would stop on a dime, much better
> than mine. He didnt even see mine, just commented. I agree with you,
> the brakes on the New Model Giant Bike, may be better/newer than my
> Dia Compe 960's, but mine arent defective, and they do stop for me.
> Stop pretty well, just probably need new pads, cables, and
> adjustments...

As I said, shame on him.

> The levers are on the U Turn of the Handlebars. They are not the Old
> Fashioned Schwinn Dual Hand Grip Levers, just the vertical brake
> lever, that you have to lean down to squeeze, like in a racing
> position.

Question is, do the cables come out the top of the brake lever and arch
over the handlebar? If so, that's the old non-aero style.

> That is why I considered FlatBar, and Raised Seat. I hurt my back, as
> well as knee surgeries when I was in accident. So, riding a more
> upright position would be a big help to me.

"More upright" can mean many things. I ride with my saddle at handlebar
height, which by racer-fit standards is high. I use aero style levers
and brake from the hoods. I never brake from the hooks, and don't
typically ride in them either. Here's what my riding position looks
like: http://www.flickr.com/photos/97916047@N00/5263521823/ certainly
nothing like the position a racer would have, much more upright, but a
long way from "bolt upright". On this bike the bar is perhaps 5-10mm
below saddle height.

At least if you had to change the handlebars to an upright style with
this bike it wouldn't be nearly as hideously expensive as such a change
would be with integrated shifters.

> And the LBS showed me a New Stem Quill, that would allow me to raise
> the current handlebars, instead of switching everything with Flat bar,
> and bar End Shifters, etc...

Nitto Technomic or Technomic Deluxe stems would let you raise the bars
probably a considerable amount over the existing setup. I can't tell
you whether changing to a flat bar would help with your situation, as
the type of bar alone doesn't really determine your position.

However, with a drop bar for me there are at least 4 or 5 more hand
positions than there are on a flat bar, and at least a couple more than
on a porteur-style bar and one key to avoiding hand problems is a
variety of different hand positions.

Maybe with what you save by not going overboard on those wheels that
caught your eye you could invest in a good fitting session with somebody
who understands dealing with back issues and the like. It could be
money very well spent.

[Ray Riendeau]

Thank You Jon,

                              That was a very well explained answer to me.  I didnt even know that Sheldon Brown is not living.  I have just clicked on links to his pages.  But I can understand more clearly what a freewheel, and freehub are, the way you just explained things.  If you read my most recent post, you will get a better understanding as to how I ened up in the confused situation that Im in.  Most of my true wants, were a new Saddle, because the Avocet Touring Saddle that was Original on my bike, was hurting my Butt, and Crotch.  Part of that may be me.  Fact that im heavier now, than when I was really into triathalons, Marathons etc....plus, Im injured for good now. So, pain plays more of a role in all this.  I ended up with a Serfas Dual Density E-Gel Saddle.  I wanted a Brooks, but the LBS owner said that someone that is just starting back into riding, like me, would not be happy with a Brooks. He said, Id love to sell it to you for $100.00 plus.....but in honesty, I think you'll be 100 percent more happy with these new E-gel Saddles by Serfas, or Avenir.  I am not totally happy with my new Serfas, but it could be that Im just not used to riding as much, and as far as I once could/did. And even short trips may bother me, cause my Butt isnt used to riding yet.  Im 6'1" 240 pounds, not fat, but not in shape either.  I was 6' and about 170 pounds when I was competing with this bike, over the years in Triathalons....so big difference to 240 pounds, and having disc injuries in back, and 2 knee surgeries.

 

                That is why Im wanting a more Upright Riding Position, and mentioned 2 different LBS Shops Options, and prices,
and am not sure which way to go.  maybe you could understand, and shed a little light on each option, they both amount to   about $80.00 for either Route of updating, and Tuning up the Bike.  Also, do you know of any Courses for learning Repair of Bikes, in New Jersey, or Philadelphia, PA??  If so, Id be interested.  I appreciate your input and time. Thank You, Ray

[Ray Riendeau]

thank you for disecting my previous post, with your answers/advice.  As to my brakes, they are the type that has a cable going into the top of the lever.  I am going to send a Link, that isnt mine, but shows a bike that is exactly like mine, same year, same color, and same brakes, pedals, gears, etc....You can clearly see the HandleBars and how the Brakes are Situated on them, along with the cable path.......and also, where my shifters are now located..which is on the DownTube...both shift Levers are on the DownTube.....Here is the Page/Pictures...again, same as mine...color and all....Thanks, Ray

http://www.flickr.com/photos/swoosh/

 

 

--

[Steve Palincsar]

On Wed, 2010-12-15 at 13:21 -0500, Ray Riendeau wrote:
> thank you for disecting my previous post, with your answers/advice.
> As to my brakes, they are the type that has a cable going into the top
> of the lever.

With that type of brake lever you really need to be in the hooks to
brake with full power. That's not the case with aero-style brake
levers: they allow you to brake either from the hooks or from the brake
hoods. Since most people ride with their hands on or very close to the
brake hoods. aero levers would be preferable and a worthwhile upgrade.

> I am going to send a Link, that isnt mine, but shows a bike that is
> exactly like mine, same year, same color, and same brakes, pedals,
> gears, etc....You can clearly see the HandleBars and how the Brakes
> are Situated on them, along with the cable path.......and also, where
> my shifters are now located..which is on the DownTube...both shift
> Levers are on the DownTube.....

You might consider changing to bar end shifters. Any ones would do.
Bikes of that era frequently had the original SunTour BarCons, and you
can often find them pretty cheap on ebay, but literally any and every
bar end shifter would work, so if you do this you could feel free buying
by price.

IMHO the most elegant solution is the DiaCompe/Riv Silver, which is a
resurrection of the old SunTour Sprint downtube lever mounted in a
Shimano clone bar end shifter pod. You could probably adapt the
downtube shifters you have to work in bar end shifter pods: they look a
lot like the SunTour Sprint lever I mentioned earlier.

>

[Jon]

Dear Ray,

Once again I agree with Steve. You probably should replace the cables
and pads, not the brakes. Proper adjustment helps with squealing, but
frankly I worry more about the stopping than the noise. Also agree
with Steve's comments about fitting you properly. The new tires were
a good idea.

Regarding the seat, it's a very personal thing. I like a softer seat
than most. I have bought a lot of saddles over the years, and some
were comfy, some not. If you lose some weight and ride more, you may
find a firmer saddle more comfortable eventually.

For the bars, I like the drop bars you have now. Some like flat bars,
but as Steve said, you don't need them just to move to a higher
position; that can be done with a new stem (such as the Nitto
Technomic, which is not as pretty as a Technomic Deluxe, but it costs
less and can go higher). That would be my choice, but some people
like flat bars. The aero brake levers are nice; I like having the
cables away from my hands (compare the pics of your bike with the pic
of Steve on his), but they are not essential, and the older style
levers (which you have) work fine. If you stick with them, it will
save you at least $30. Again, a matter of budget and personal
preference. (Aero levers have no meaningful aerodynamic benefit, they
just put the cables in a less obtrusive location. Back before there
were aero levers, I never worried about it.)

Sheldon died a couple of years ago. He was an encyclopedia of cycling
knowledge, and a nice guy. He wrote many useful articles which remain
available through the Harris Cyclery web site. I used to live a few
miles from the shop and was an occasional customer (and of Peter
White's when he was in Acton).

Regarding courses, I live 3000 miles from you and don't know the
area. I would try contacting some clubs in your area. For a listing,
see:

http://www.state.nj.us/transportation/commuter/bike/bikeclubs.shtm

I never took a course, but learned from friends and books and
experimentation on my bike. That's why I am semi-competent only.

Jon

[Ray Riendeau]

Hello and Thank You....

 

                                Do you know of, or have any pictures that show a very good image of what the Dia Compe Riv/Silver or Sun Tour Sprint Lever's look like?  Id like to get a good mental image of what Im looking for.  And also, is this something that is better left to the LBS to do, rather than myself?  Id like to take the Course in Bike repair mentioned earlier in previous post, but till then, in the meantime, I bought a Huge book that is Called Maintenance abd Repair Guide to RoadBikes/Touring Bikes, I forget the Author, but its like the Bible of RoadBike Repair and maintenance. I bought it at Performance Bike shop near me in Philadelphia,PA.  They also had a version of the Book that was specificly geared to Racing Bike repair and Maintenance and also Mountain Bike repair and Maintenance, but its not near me at this time, im not at home, so I forget who the Book is put out by.....But it was pretty expensive, and is a Huge Book.  I thought it might help me to understand, and possibly help me to do some of the work myself. Im mechanically inclined, but have never done anything further than replace/repair Tires and Tubes. And raising and removing Saddle.  I would like to learn how to know if my Wheels/Spoke need to be Tru'd up.  I saw the tools for this at the same store, but didnt buy them, because I dont know what size tool I need for my spokes.  Also, I dont see how my Saddle can be adjusted for Fore and Aft or Angled Up or Down at the Nose of saddle.  There is no small screw/bolt for further adjustments of the Saddle, other than the Securing of the Saddle to the Seat Tube.  Thank You, Ray

--

[Steve Palincsar]

On Wed, 2010-12-15 at 11:36 -0800, Jon wrote:
> The aero brake levers are nice; I like having the
> cables away from my hands (compare the pics of your bike with the pic
> of Steve on his), but they are not essential, and the older style
> levers (which you have) work fine. If you stick with them, it will
> save you at least $30. Again, a matter of budget and personal
> preference. (Aero levers have no meaningful aerodynamic benefit, they
> just put the cables in a less obtrusive location. Back before there
> were aero levers, I never worried about it.)

The benefit of "aero levers" has nothing at all to do with aerdynamics,
and everything to do with the revised location of the brake lever pivot.
You can't apply full braking power from the brake hoods with the older
exposed-cable style brake levers; instead, you have to go into the
drops. Aero levers let you brake with full power from the hoods.
That's important in an of itself, but takes on special significance for
someone who has back trouble and might not be able to use the drops or
get into them quickly.

[Steve Palincsar]

On Wed, 2010-12-15 at 14:56 -0500, Ray Riendeau wrote:
> Hello and Thank You....
>
> Do you know of, or have any pictures
> that show a very good image of what the Dia Compe Riv/Silver or Sun
> Tour Sprint Lever's look like?

http://assets.rivbike.com/images/products/full/0000/0697/17-089-1.jpg
http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/components/shifting-freewheels-cassettes/shifters/dia-compe-silver-bar-end-shifters.html
http://www.flickr.com/photos/97916047@N00/326010209/in/set-72157603355855778/

> Id like to get a good mental image of what Im looking for.. And also,

> is this something that is better left to the LBS to do, rather than
> myself?

I'd say yes, leave it to the bike shop.

> I would like to learn how to know if my Wheels/Spoke need to be Tru'd
> up. I saw the tools for this at the same store, but didnt buy them,
> because I dont know what size tool I need for my spokes.

Leave this alone. Revisit the thought in 2013. If you mess around with
spoke tension and don't know what you're doing you can really screw your
wheel up, and you do not know what you're doing today. Have the bike
shop evaluate your wheels and true them if necessary.

> Also, I dont see how my Saddle can be adjusted for Fore and Aft or
> Angled Up or Down at the Nose of saddle. There is no small screw/bolt
> for further adjustments of the Saddle, other than the Securing of the
> Saddle to the Seat Tube.

Seat post, not seat tube. In this photo
http://www.flickr.com/photos/swoosh/4494244605/sizes/l/ the silver
thing the saddle is sitting on, that sticks down into the frame, is the
seat post. Put your head down where the rear rack is, and look up and
the underneath of the saddle and seat post. You will find an allen head
fitting. When you loosen it, you will be able to slide the saddle back
and forth for for-aft adjustment, and you will be able to set the tilt
angle of the seat as well. Here's another view, without the saddle
mounted: http://media.photobucket.com/image/sr%20laprade%
20seatpost/velobase/sr_laprade_4.jpg

I don't think it would be asking too much of them for you to ask the
bike shop to show you this.

>

[Peter F]

You're getting lots of good advice from folks with more experience
than me, but I'll add a couple of thoughts that I haven't seen
expressed yet.

Instead of going to flat bars (which I've always found the most
uncomfortable) consider adding a set of cyclocross style "interruptor
levers". These are a second set of levers that go on the bars right
near the stem and let you use the brakes easily while riding in a more
upright position. They're very simple and you can get a decent set
for around $30. They look something like this when installed:(scroll
down to "Interruptor Brake Levers")

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_i-k.html

This photo also shows a set of aero brake levers on the curves of the
handle bars. This is almost exactly the setup I have on my Le Tour
and I love it. Gives me lots of options for hand positions while
still being able to brake safely.

I grew up in the Philly area, but don't know of any bike repair
courses there currently (doesn't mean they don't exist). I took a 6
week class at Bicycle Habitat here in NYC, but learned most of what I
know from reading books and the internet. If you're at all handy with
tools, you can easily learn to do basic repairs yourself just by
reading. (Hands-on experience is crucial for some more advanced tasks
though.) A great general repair book is the Park Tool Big Blue Book of
Bicycle Repair.

http://www.parktool.com/product/BBB-2

I suspect that for a fee, many bike shops might even set you up with a
private lessons with their mechanic. You could do 1/2 hour or hour
long sessions that focus on one specific task.

Anyway, good luck and happy trails!

Peter F
NYC

> > bicyclelifesty...@googlegroups.com<bicyclelifestyle%2Bunsubscrib e...@googlegroups.com>
> > .

[Ray Riendeau]

Thank You Peter, Steve, and Fai, Willem, and others....I appreciate all of the advice, and help....

 

                 I am aware of the allen screw under my seat, I had to loosen that to remove my old Avocet saddle, and put on the Serfas E-Gel Dual Density.  The owner said that if I wasnt happy, I could return any E-Gel seat, such as I bought, but if I bought a Brooks, I was stuck with it.  He said he was certain Id be happy with tthe E-Gel.  Im really not.  But he was supposed to give me store credit on any return, and allow me to switch to another Gel Model.  Just no Brooks.  And he didnt recommend the Brooks anyway.  Now he tells me that I must have the seat set too low, or it would be super comfortable.  he isnt keeping his word.  But I didnt notice the Fore and Aft as I installed it....I mean I saw how it can be moved more forward, or more backwards.....but the Toe Up or Down....I dont have a seperate screw for that.

 

 

          As for the brakes, Now I know what you mean...I saw these on some newer bikes at Performance Bike Shops, here in Philly Area.  In my opinion, they reminded me of the "Old Schwinn Varsity/Continental Brakes"......The Brakes from the 1970's era that had the Lever Brake on the Hook, Like My Current Bike has...But Coming out of the Center of the Lever, was a Flat Vertical Lever, sort of a "Dual Lever Handle"....where you could Apply Brakes from the Hood of the HandleBars, or Lean Down, and Use the Lever as if you were in a Racing Position...Do You Remember what I am Talking about???  They were NOT as SLEAK Looking as these Newer Interruptor Brakes, or Aero Brakes, But were on just about every 1970's Schwinn Varsity of the time....Dual Brake Levers...Same Principal???

 

             I will look into Bike Shops about Courses, and also check out that Book.   Thanks, Ray

To unsubscribe from this group, send email to bicyclelifesty...@googlegroups.com.

[Steve Palincsar]

On Thu, 2010-12-16 at 07:44 -0500, Ray Riendeau wrote:
> Now he tells me that I must have the seat set too low, or it would be
> super comfortable. he isnt keeping his word. But I didnt notice the
> Fore and Aft as I installed it....I mean I saw how it can be moved
> more forward, or more backwards.....but the Toe Up or Down....I dont
> have a seperate screw for that.

No, with a one-bolt seat post it's all done by loosening that one bolt.
To move the saddle fore-and-aft, once the clamping force on the rails is
lessened, shove the saddle with your hand. Sometimes a smart smack is
required. Some seat posts have separate adjustment screws for
fore-and-aft and for tilt; others have separate bolts for up and down
tilt. Yours does not.

> The Brakes from the 1970's era that had the Lever Brake on the Hook,
> Like My Current Bike has...But Coming out of the Center of the Lever,
> was a Flat Vertical Lever, sort of a "Dual Lever Handle"....where you
> could Apply Brakes from the Hood of the HandleBars, or Lean Down, and

> Use the Lever as if you were in a Racing Position....Do You Remember

> what I am Talking about??? They were NOT as SLEAK Looking as these
> Newer Interruptor Brakes, or Aero Brakes, But were on just about every
> 1970's Schwinn Varsity of the time....Dual Brake Levers...Same
> Principal???

I remember them well. We used to call them "suicide levers." They do
not work on the same principle as today's interrupter levers at all.
They had a metal bracket that bent around and stuck into the brake
lever. When you moved the "safety lever" it pushed on the brake lever.
Trouble is, it stole some of the range of motion away from the brake
lever. Modern interrupter levers work by pushing on the housing and
don't mess with the regular brake lever at all.

I like interrupter levers and have them on several bikes. You can see
them fairly well here on my Kogswell P/R:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/97916047@N00/326010209/in/set-72157603355855778/
You can see the details of the suidice lever quite well in this photo:
http://wandel.ca/bikes/0620-170639.jpg See how it's depressing the
brake lever? That lever movement is no longer available to pull on the
brakes.

[Ray Riendeau]

Hello,

             yes, I can only move my saddle fore and aft....but no tilting that I can see.  I dont know how important that is, But I have read that small changes in Tilt, up or down can make a world of difference in comfort, and make a seat you weren't happy with, much better.  But I dont know this to be true.  I was hoping to trade in this Serfas saddle, that I just bought, for the Serfas RX Saddle, which has a cutout, is a Gel Saddle, and recommended by Doctors, for Back, and also Prostate Issues.  It looked like a nice saddle, and was only $10.00 difference.  I know that my seat isnt too low, I already raised it some, just to see if the LBS owner was correct, and he was not.  So, I got screwed on his word.

 

           My Suicide Levers in the 1970's on my Varsity and later on Continental were fine by me.  I realize now, that they are not like the interruptor Levers, but would still probably have been OK for me, with my Back issues. I could have rode more Upright, and not had to bend as much, when applying brakes.  I will look into Interruptor Levers for my Le Tour...I like the Photos...and also noticed the Bar End Shifters in one of the Photos.  Id like to have those, instead of reaching down to my DownTube.  Younger days was not a problem, but after back surgey, I dont like to have to lean, or bend forward as much.  Which is why I was asking about the 2 different LBS Options, for my Bike...which was going FlatBar, and TuneUp, with bar End Shifters, and Brake levers on the Flatbar.......Or the other Option, of Raising my Current Bars, with the Nitto Stem Quill, and Saddle Adjustments, to ride more Upright.  But that would not address the locations of the Brake Levers, or the Shifters on the DownTube, as they are currently.  Id have to add that to the cost, with the other LBS option... Again, none of this addresses the Freewheel, and chain options that we talked about here...that is a seperate issue.  Which would add to the cost of just making the Upright Riding Position and TuneUp Jobs that I had mentioned.  I dont know how much Id like my Bike with Flatbar on it...I think it would not look so Good asthetically....So, the Stem Quill may be the better Route....and then factor cost of moving Brake Levers, to Interruptors, and Bar End Shifters, instead of the Downtube Shifters.  I really do like my Bike alot, and its Sentimental...lots of races with it.  So, Id like to keep it going.  Only way Id consider changing, is if a Schwinn Paramound landed under my Christmas tree...LOL..   Thanks, ray

--

[dwluca...@aol.com]

For the time and money you are putting into this bike, you might very well find a Paramount on ebay for an acceptable price.  

I honesty don't understand your saddle adjustment problem.  I've been riding for 66 years (since I was 4) and have yet to see a saddle that didn't adjust in tilt.  Does yours have the old serrated teeth clamps?  I don't know if that's what they are called, but they have a ring of big notches or teeth in them and you have to loosen the clamp quite a bit to get them to move to a new position, but they do move.  They don't permit micro-adjustments since you have to pick one tooth or the other, but they get pretty darn close.

I wouldn't put much stock in what anybody tells you about saddles.  Everybody's back end is different, and what is comfortable for one person causes extreme pain for another.  Gel seats and cut outs may work for some follks and not at all for others.  The advantage of a leather saddle is that it slowly forms itself to your particular anatomy like a good leather shoe.  Nonetheless, there are many who can't tolerate leather saddles and swear by some other materials.  Only you can decide what is or is not comfortable.

If you are riding in a more upright position now, you are going to be putting more weight on your backside and less on your hands.  You may want to investigate some of the wider saddles sold for women whose hips are wider than mens.  In fact, most of the guys my age ride these wider saddles.  They are easier on the backside including the prostate and other parts in that area.  But then again, your mileage may vary.

Changing bars, shifters, levers, etc. is going to cost you a fair piece of change but if the bike has sentimental value, then go for it.  However, if it were me, I'd hang it in an honored spot in my garage and buy a newer bike that more closely meets your needs.

Dave

P.S.  You'll have the same problems with a Paramount that you have with your current bike; so don't look too long on ebay.

-----Original Message-----
From: Ray Riendeau <rayr...@gmail.com>
To: bicyclelifestyle <bicyclel...@googlegroups.com>
Sent: Thu, Dec 16, 2010 5:34 am
Subject: Re: {BL} Re: 1985 Schwinn Le Tour Luxe

[Ray Riendeau]

Hello dave,

 

                      its not so much a problem with the saddle, ill bet its more than likely me.  But I would have liked to have been able to try a few saddles, as the Owner told me prior to buying.  He said if I bought any other saddle than a Brooks, he would allow me to trade them back in, after a few weeks of riding, and switch around till I found one that seemed to sit well with me.  he said, you cant ask for a better deal than that, huh?  And so I agreed, and bought the Serfas Dual Density E-Gel saddle.  Id love to try out the Serfas RX gel Saddle, which is a Dr. Recommended one.  I know I should not place alot of stock in Dr.'s Endorsement, but it felt nice to me, and I just would like to try it, as per his original sales pitch to buying a new saddle from him.  I was otherwise going to blindly buy a Brooks Flyer Saddle with the Springs under the saddle, thinking that would absorb some of the shock I might possibly feel in my back, if I hit any bumps.  The Terrain I ride on is just asphalt streets, which may at times run over hardened gravel.  Nothing more drastic than that.

 

               My Saddle and Post are the common more modern ones, that have a small plate that loosens when you unscrew the Allen Bolt.  Its not the older style with the teeth in it, I know what you mean by that, and that was on some of my older bikes, like I think a varsity from the 1970's.  The only thing I mention about adjustments of the Seat, that allow you to tilt the nose, or rear up or down a bit, is shown in an illustration in the Big repair Book I bought, there is a seperate screw, that allows you to move the saddle slightly up or down in angle, once the saddle is tightly secured to the post.  Its a secondary adjustment screw, but my Seat Post does not have this extra Screw for that adjustment.  I told the LBS owner this, and he said that when I tighten the Saddle onto the Seat Post, to Hold it steady, nose up, or down a bit, and once I fully tighten the seat, it will stay in that Position.  But that isnt true.  When I tighten the seat fully onto post, it tightens in a parallel to the ground position. There is no way of tilting the Nose slightly up or down. Id probably need a new Seat post with the extra Screw in order to make that adjustment, or somhow Crudely make a Shim that I could Insert between saddle and the bracket, in order to make the Up and Down Micro adjustments....But Ill worry about that, once Im comfortable with the saddle and my butt/crotch.  And if he allows me to return this saddle, I may try the Wider style saddles that you mentioned.

 

                      The reason I mentioned the Paramount, is that I was just in Performance Bike Shop, in Philly, and they had 2 Schwinn Paramounts, that were New Models, and very nice looking, beautiful.....and discounted on red Tag...but still costed $1700.00  so, its only a Lusty Dream for me. I cant afford that.  And I like my Le Tour better than the new 2010, or 2011 Schwinn Le Tour Models I was looking at in the LBS near me.  The new Le Tour's, various renditions of the le Tour that I looked at, Brand New...didn't impress me all that much.  The Performance Bike shop also had several new Fuji RoadBikes, with newer Style Brakes, Gear Shifters, etc....and Nice Wheels, did impress me alot, and some of those were Red Tagged to about $800.00 for the whole Bike New.  There was also another company they carried, with beautiful Road and racing Bikes, looking similar to my Le Tour, but much more modern components on it, the Company/Brand began with an "S' and if I remember, sounded like an Italian name...were very Nice Looking Bikes also, but were very expensive, in the same price range as the Paramount I was looking at. 

 

                i know that today, in order to get a really good American Hand Made Bike, Road Bike/Touring Bike, you have to get one like a Waterford, Cannondale, or something like that...and they are Extremely Expensive...not at all in my League...But beautiful, and I believe where the New Schwinn Paramount's are made also.  I just have to decide on what to do to my Bike to make it a More Upright Riding Bike...that is the most Important First Move, along with TuneUp and adjustments....Thanks, Ray

[Peter Leiss]

Ray

Unless your seat post is totally weird it will allow tilt, just loosen the allen bolt a little more and then grab the nose and back of the saddle and push down on one while pushing up on the other end, if there is only one bolt this will work, you may have to give either end a bang with your hand.

Peter

[Ray Riendeau]

Peter,

              I will try that.  I didn't think it worked.  When i tightened up the bolt, it seemed to lock that bracket/plate down tight against the seat frame, and I figured it was just keeping it tight and straight/parallel to the ground.  I read about other seat posts that had an extra screw for the tilt angle of the nose, or rear, and dont see a 2nd little bolt on my seat post. So, I figured I was stuck with the flat position.  But I will now try to angle the nose as I retighten it.  Thanks for the tip...I didn't know that.   Ray

[Peter Leiss]

Let us all know how it works out!

and if it does not work send a photo so we can see wahts up.

Peter

[Ray Riendeau]

Thanks, and I will Peter.   Thanks, ray

[WillemJ]

The first thing that strikes me is that you need to look for a new
shop. Unless it is your own ignorance that gets in the way, you do not
seem to get the advice you need. And indeed, you need to know more
than you do. Look here for some great tutorials on bike maintenance:
http://bicycletutor.com/ A picture says more than a thousand words.
As I already indicated, I do not think this is a bike to spend a great
deal of money on. Equally, given you are such a beginner, you should
avoid buying a new bike until you really know what you need/want. So
you need to get this bike back into working condition without breaking
the bank. Here is a list:

Have all the bearings serviced (hubs, headset, possibly bottombracket
if it is still of the cup and cone type), i.e. cleaned, with new
balls, regreased, adjusted.
Replace all cables, both brake and gear (inners and outers).
Replace brakepads with modern Kool Stop Salmon pads.
Replace (probably) existing freewheel, preferably with one with a
lower gearing (count the teeth you have now on the biggest sprocket),
plus a new chain.
Look into the front chainwheels. If worn (probably not), replace with
chainwheels with fewer teeth.
Raise the handlebar as high as possible. Your current stem will have a
marking to indicate how high you can do this safely. If this is still
not enough, buy a Nitto stem. Perhaps also get a stem that has a
slightly shorter reach so you will be less stretched out. Since you
are heavy, you may consider spending a few dollars on a Sugino High
Column Nut to stiffen the raised stem. Look into the clamp diameter of
your current stem/bar. If you need to buy a new stem, decide if you
also want to replace the bar. Most non-oversized road bars are now
26.0 mm, but some are 25.4 mm, the standard for non-oversized straight
bars. There are compatibility issues between raod and straight bars
and levers as well, so think before you buy.
Buy new tyres and tubes: Panaracer Pasela 27 x 1 1/4 plus matching
Schwalbe tubes (preferably).
If braking from the hoods is too hard, get modern aero levers (cheap
Shimano, or perhaps even better and cheaper, Tektro road bike levers).
I have never felt a need for interruptor brakes, and I can live quite
well with downtube shifters.
I hate gell saddles, and I think your initial instinct to go for a
Brooks Champion Flyer was a good one. Wallbike are a good shop for
those as they have a return guarantee. Wear padded cycling shorts,
however, and be patient. Your backside needs to be broken in as well.

I think this is about it. Already it adds up to quite a bit, even
though you could probably postpone some things. So first raise that
bar, and make sure your saddle is at the right height (just like
others, I too know of no seatposts that cannot be adjusted for tilt).
If your knees are sore, the saddle may be too low.

Enjoy your ride,

Willem

[Steve Palincsar]

Fine advice, and I agree with each and every bit of it.

[Will]

I can't say that I disagree with any of Willem's thoughts, I'd just
implement in stages...

Specifically, I'd get that Brooks saddle, since that's a keeper
anyway. I'd get the handle bars higher, whether you need a new stem
will become apparent. I'd wait on the wheels, tires, brakes, cog, and
the rest. I'd get positioned on the bike correctly and then see what
else needed to be done. You may find that once you are comfortable,
the rest of the issues are either less pressing or no longer
relevant.

It's easy to "spread the blame" when you are uncomfortable or
concerned about injuries. Get upright first, then start thinking about
next steps. Willem is dead on this respect: do not spend a bunch of
money at this stage. You need to get some miles in first.

And, by-the-by, I think this bike is entirely adequate for re-entering
the cycling world. You could ride it for a year or two before getting
itchy for the next one. The more miles you get in now, on what you
have, the better choice you will make down the road.

Will

On Dec 19, 4:26 am, WillemJ <willem.jong...@gmail.com> wrote:
> The first thing that strikes me is that you need to look for a new
> shop. Unless it is your own ignorance that gets in the way, you do not
> seem to get the advice you need. And indeed, you need to know more

> than you do. Look here for some great tutorials on bike maintenance:http://bicycletutor.com/A picture says more than a thousand words.

[Ray Riendeau]

Hello,

              And I just want to say Thank You to everyone!!!   I am glad that this didn't just turn out to be direct answers to my questions, but instead alot of advice, concerning every aspect of my bike.  This has helped me to look into the whole situation with my bike.  And I didn't want to just jump to a new bike, especially since there is alot of sentimental value to this one, let alone, plenty of positive things I have read about this bike, te frame, and it as a whole, even on Sheldon Brown's Webbsite, let alone several others.  It seemed that this particular model year, was a very good one, for this bike, as well as Fuji and Trek's of the same year, which wer vvery similar in Frame, and components.

 

            The one LBS, is on the Web, its called Jay's Pedal Power...in Philadelphia,PA....but they have a large website.  The one mechanic there has been very good to me, but its the owner who has turned out to be a real Jackass, and Noone can overstep him.  He is totally not sticking to what he promised when I bought the Saddle...and I only bought the Gel Saddle on his very STRONG Recommendation.  He pretty much Refused to sell me a Brooks.  He said he was positive that I would feel like I was riding on a 2X4 Piece of wood.  He said it would take a Year to break one in also. And while hed love taking my $100 plus dollars, he just cannot do it.  So, he said the Gel would be the best, and its the Newest Technology...unlike my Avocet..

 

            But anyway, I know I need all new Cables, a TuneUp...and Possible New Stem to Raise my Bars Higher, if not replace my Bars.  But the New Brake Levers would be a Plus, if they were more for Upright Position, for riding, due to my Back Injury mainly, and knees secondary.  I will loook into another shop to possibly do the work, and see about the Stem, Levers, and new Bar. 

Thanks Alot, Ray

[WillemJ]

Most importantly, enjoy your ride. I still enjoy riding my not very
special 1976 road bike that is still in almost entirely original
condition. I now also have other bikes, but I still like to ride this
one too. It was fun then, and it can still be fun now. By the way,
your bike shop is apparently for sale.
Willem

> On Sun, Dec 19, 2010 at 10:37 AM, Will <waller.will...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > I can't say  that I disagree with any of Willem's thoughts, I'd just
> > implement in stages...
>
> > Specifically, I'd get that Brooks saddle, since that's a keeper
> > anyway. I'd get the handle bars higher, whether you need a new stem
> > will become apparent. I'd wait on the wheels, tires, brakes, cog, and
> > the rest. I'd get positioned on the bike correctly and then see what
> > else needed to be done. You may find that once you are comfortable,
> > the rest of the issues are either less pressing or no longer
> > relevant.
>
> > It's easy to "spread the blame" when you are uncomfortable or
> > concerned about injuries. Get upright first, then start thinking about
> > next steps. Willem is dead on this respect: do not spend a bunch of
> > money at this stage. You need to get some miles in first.
>
> > And, by-the-by, I think this bike is entirely adequate for re-entering
> > the cycling world. You could ride it for a year or two before getting
> > itchy for the next one. The more miles you get in now, on what you
> > have, the better choice you will make down the road.
>
> > Will
>
> > On Dec 19, 4:26 am, WillemJ <willem.jong...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > > The first thing that strikes me is that you need to look for a new
> > > shop. Unless it is your own ignorance that gets in the way, you do not
> > > seem to get the advice you need. And indeed, you need to know more
> > > than you do. Look here for some great tutorials on bike maintenance:

> >http://bicycletutor.com/Apicture says more than a thousand words.

> > bicyclelifesty...@googlegroups.com<bicyclelifestyle%2Bunsu...@googlegroups.com>
> > .

[Taylor Winfield]

I only have two comments regarding Dr. Jongman's good advice:   1) Getting a 5 cog freewheel with gearing other than 14-17-20-23-28 (which I very strongly suspect the Le Tour has now) is much easier said than done. You will need to change the chainwheels on the crank to smaller ones (as suggested by Willem and others) instead.   2) You should change the stem and if you can't find or don't want to pay for a high end Nitto, any LBS should be able to find a Zoom brand front loader quill stem that will raise your drop bars to a (more functional for you) higher level. John Alldredge --- On Sun, 12/19/10, WillemJ <willem....@gmail.com> wrote:

From: WillemJ <willem....@gmail.com> Subject: Re: {BL} Re: 1985 Schwinn Le Tour Luxe

-- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Bicycle Lifestyle" group. To post to this group, send email to bicyclel...@googlegroups.com.

To unsubscribe from this group, send email to bicyclelifestyle+unsub...@googlegroups.com.

[Steve Palincsar]

There's a Shimano on ebay right now. Buy it now, 25 bucks. Also a
SunTour 14-34, buy it now $49. And a SunTour 14-32, $45.

http://cgi.ebay.com/NOS-Shimano-5-Speed-Thread-Freewheel-Cassette-13-34-/290511008781?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43a3ce340d
http://cgi.ebay.com/NOS-Suntour-5-Speed-Freewheel-14-34-NIB-/280536161429?pt=Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4151421c95
http://cgi.ebay.com/NOS-Suntour-5-Speed-Freewheel-14-32-NIB-/310276168040?pt=Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item483de69968

As much as the original poster rides, that's easily at least a 5 year
supply, maybe a lot more depending on how far he rides and how well he
takes care of his drive train.

I'd call that pretty easy, considering it took me less than 2 minutes to
find them, and if I was in a mood to buy them, it'd take no more than 5
min extra to buy them all.

One could, of course, change the chain rings. I don't know the bolt
circle of the OP's crank, but odds are good it has a 74bcd granny, which
means it would be both easy and cheap to do - although, of course, not
as cheap as changing the freewheel and chain.

[Peter F]

Can no one on this list recommend a better Philly area bike shop for
Ray? It sounds like he really needs a better place, especially if the
current one is for sale. I know there are a bunch of shops in the
area, I just don't have any experience with them myself, being from
NYC myself.

I believe my friend bought a Breezer for his mother at Bicycle Therapy
on South Street and seemed to have a good experience with it. But
again no direct experience myself. And I know people really love
bicycles made by Bilenky in North Philly, but I don't know if they do
general mechanics. Probably not, but they might be able to provide a
recommendation for a decent shop. I've also heard good things about
Tandems East in Pittsgrove in South Jersey. Again they may not do
general repairs, but might be able to point you in the direction of
one.

Hope this provides some leads. You can find any of these places with a
simple Google search.
Good luck,

Peter
NYC

> >http://bicycletutor.com/Apicture says more than a thousand words.

> > bicyclelifesty...@googlegroups.com<bicyclelifestyle%2Bunsubscrib e...@googlegroups.com>
> > .

[Ray Riendeau]

Hello Peter and Guys....

 

                 I have driven past Bicycle Therapy on South Street, and it looked from the storefront to be a very High End shop.  Nice looking, but I didn't get to go in yet.  The Guy that owns a LBS in Philly called Mike's Bikes in South Philly, at 13th and Passyunk streets, is the one that said for $80.00 he would replace all cables, Tune Up, and also put on a Flat Bar, change brake levers and bar end shifters, all parts and labor for the $80.00....but I dont know much about him. He seemed as though he didn't need the money, but did all work for this price out of the Joy of doing it....his claim.

 

             The other LBS in New Jersey, near me...is called Pro Pedals in Hammonton,NJ....this guy seemed older, and looked like he really knew the mechanics of bikes. he quoted me a TuneUp, for $30.00 and then would install the Nitto Stem, to rais my bars, again, it would be in the $80.00 range.   But none of these deal with the FreeWheel Issue, or changing the Gear ratio for my knees.  If I can live with what I have, I will just leave the wheels as they are. Maybe the More Upright Riding Position would eventually make riding easier.  I have looked at some other LBS in Phila,PA....but likeyou, dont have any experience with their repairs, or mechanics.  There is a really Old One called Via Bike, on 9th Street, near South street.....this guys has Hundreds of Bikes that he restores, and hen goes to an auction to sell, including Ebay.  He was not at all friendly, or helpful.  He loads about a hundred bikes on the roof of his Van, on a Platform, and drives them off t auction, so I would think he does alot of repairs, but dont know how good, as he doesn't seem to guaranteemuch.

 

               I found a tech, at a Local Dick's Sporting Goods, who said he worked for Schwinn Shops, and dealt with Giant, and Panasonioc, during the Era of my Bike. And he said he would do a perfect job on my bike, but he was showing me Brand New Wheels, in the 700c style, and saying they would be great on my Bike...again, he was talking Big Dollars.  I didnt want to spend big Dollars, just because I dont presenty have it...and also, due to the recommendations here, or spend a reasonable amount, but not overboard....and get my Bike back to a Godd and Comfortable Riding Condition again.  So, thats what id like to do.

 

              Im getting a little confused about this post, and the Freewheels mentioned.  Im willing to do that, if that is in my best interest.  At this point, do you think that the Freewheels change, with New Chain, and different Teth Count, is as important, as the Raising of the Handlebars, Saddle Height, and all new cables, Tune Up, Adjustments, and Re lubing all necessary parts??

 

             if so, sorry, but again, what would be the Most important things to address, in  Order....and if anyone Knows of a God LBS to do the work??? In Philly, or South Jersey...maybe even the guy at Dick's would be ok, but I think he wants to use new parts, that are sold by Dick;s Sporting Goods....so that may not work.    Thank You All, Ray

 

           

To unsubscribe from this group, send email to bicyclelifesty...@googlegroups.com.

[Steve Palincsar]

On Mon, 2010-12-20 at 08:31 -0500, Ray Riendeau wrote:
> Im getting a little confused about this post, and the Freewheels
> mentioned. Im willing to do that, if that is in my best interest. At
> this point, do you think that the Freewheels change, with New Chain,
> and different Teth Count, is as important, as the Raising of the
> Handlebars, Saddle Height, and all new cables, Tune Up, Adjustments,
> and Re lubing all necessary parts??

Chances are good you will need a new freewheel and chain anyway -- they
are, after all, wear items -- but foremost consideration for me in
recommending it was your statement that you had trouble getting up hills
and your knees hurt. That says to me you need a lower low gear, and a
freewheel change is the easiest way to get it.

If you are uncertain, go ahead and change your fit adjustments and
re-grease the bearings, and go find out if that's enough. If you can
get up the hills, fine. No need to go further. If you still feel you
need lower gears, change the freewheel.

[dwluca...@aol.com]

First thing to do is find a bike shop you like.  Look for one that's been around for 25 years or more.  Just think where you would take a '75 VW for repairs.  You wouldn't take it to the newest, fanciest shop but would take it someplace that's been around since the 60s and where someone actually knows what a carburetor it and how it works.  Same with your bike - - - find a shop that matches your bike and is staffed by at least bike mechanic that is familiar with 27" wheels/tires, downtube shifters, suicide brake levers, and leather hairnet helmets.  

I'm a great believer in bike clubs as well.  You might consider joining the local club.  I'm sure you will find someone who knows most of the shops and their mechanics and can tell you where to take your bike.

I've been a local bike club member and officer for 39 years and take our club newsletter around to all the bike shops in our area.  I know every single shop (not that many around here) and all of their owners and mechanics.  If you lived in central Illinois, I could tell you exactly where to take your bike.  We have one shop that caters to the BMX crowd and whose business slows to a crawl during the winter.  The owner there buys old Schwinns from folks who just want them out of their garage and then totally reconditions them for resale.  He buys them for about $20 and resells them for $125 - $150 and has a steady stream of buyers.  This allows him to keep the lights on in the winter and keeps these perfectly serviceable bikes on the road.  He'd be perfect for your needs.  

Additionally, you may find someone in the bike club who could show you how to do your own tune up.  I'm an old retired guy and have helped folks like yourself time and time again with their bike repairs.  I've even gone to their house and showed them how to pump up their new fangled Presta valved tubes.  LOL  You and I could redo your bike in my garage for no more than the cost of the parts.  I do charge a cold beer in the summer and a cup of hot coffee in the winter.

The point of the above rambling is that the local bike club may well have one or more members like myself who has been around since balloon tired Schwinns were common and now has the time and inclination to assist others with their bike problems.  Working on a Le Tour isn't rocket science and doesn't require much in the way of special tools.

But back to the task at hand..........In my opinion, your first task it to find a comfortable saddle.  As others have mentioned, your first choice was probably a good one.  It was relatively wide and actually had springs as I recall.  That would be good for your back and rear end.

Second, you need to get those bars up.  They need to be at least at the same level as your saddle top if not higher.  The newer "comfort" bikes have bars that are much higher than that and are a little too high in my opinion, but they do represent the concept that a higher bar is a good thing if you are looking for comfort.

Third, you need a good tune up.  $80 is a pretty reasonable price for what you want done.  In fact, it's a very reasonable price.  You will definitely need new tires, tubes and brake pads. 

Once you get the bars up and a comfortable saddle, you may decide you don't need anything else.  The traditional drop bars offer more riding positions than flat bars and may in fact be a better choice for you.  I'd give it a go and see what you think.

Depending on where you ride, your stock gearing may be fine too.  Changing rear sprocket sizes sometime involves changing derailleurs as well, and the cost starts to go up.  If your knees really can't handle the stock gearing, then you could look into changing drive train components to lower your gear ratios.

The downside to this is that if you decide you need new bars, levers, shifters, etc.  it may be getting close to Spring and the bike shops will be too busy to spend much time with your vintage machine.  Mid winter is the time to do all this messing around with your bike as the shops will have much more time now than in April or May.

So...........don't overthink this.  Spend $20 and join the local bike club and then find a shop that is more suitable to your needs.  Get a decent saddle, raise your bars and see how it goes.

But do remember that bike shops are a business, and time is money even in the winter. Changing bars, shifters, gears, freewheels, etc. is pretty labor intensive and time consuming and some shops aren't interested in doing this as they can't really charge what their time is worth.  

Good luck on your venture.

Dave

-----Original Message-----
From: Ray Riendeau <rayr...@gmail.com>
To: bicyclelifestyle <bicyclel...@googlegroups.com>

Sent: Mon, Dec 20, 2010 2:31 am
Subject: Re: {BL} Re: 1985 Schwinn Le Tour Luxe

[Steve Palincsar]

On Mon, 2010-12-20 at 09:48 -0500, dwluca...@aol.com wrote:
> Changing rear sprocket sizes sometime involves changing derailleurs as
> well, and the cost starts to go up.

But not in this case. The MountTech had tremendous range.

[dwluca...@aol.com]

Good point. I'd forgotten what derailleur came on these Le Tours.

If the derailleur range is sufficient, then a freewheel change would be pretty easy (and relatively inexpensive) and would definitely get you lower, more knee friendly gearing.

Dave

-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Palincsar <pali...@his.com>
To: bicyclelifestyle <bicyclel...@googlegroups.com>
Sent: Mon, Dec 20, 2010 3:57 am
Subject: Re: {BL} Re: 1985 Schwinn Le Tour Luxe

 wrote:
> Changing rear sprocket sizes sometime involves changing derailleurs as
> well, and the cost starts to go up. 

But not in this case.  The MountTech had tremendous range.



-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Bicycle Lifestyle" group.
To post to this group, send email to bicyclel...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to bicyclelifesty...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/bicyclelifestyle?hl=en.

[WillemJ]

But first: count the number of teeth you have. I say so because the
stock 30 front, 28 rear is not that high and without luggage it should
get you up quite a few hills. Can you not train a bit more while
avoiding the hills in the meantime? But for all we know your bike may
now have a 13-24 freewheel. So get down on those creaking knees and
count the teeth.
Willem

On Dec 20, 4:09 pm, dwlucas62...@aol.com wrote:
> Good point. I'd forgotten what derailleur came on these Le Tours.
>
> If the derailleur range is sufficient, then a freewheel change would be pretty easy (and relatively inexpensive) and would definitely get you lower, more knee friendly gearing.
>
> Dave
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Steve Palincsar <palin...@his.com>
> To: bicyclelifestyle <bicyclel...@googlegroups.com>
> Sent: Mon, Dec 20, 2010 3:57 am
> Subject: Re: {BL} Re: 1985 Schwinn Le Tour Luxe
>

[WillemJ]

And while you are at it, measure the distance between two successive
chainring bolts of your crankset, so you can calculate the bcd (bolt
circle diameter). 43.5 mm is bcd 74 mm, 64.7 mm is bcd 110 mm, 76.4 mm
is bcd 130 mm, just to name the most common ones. Here too, your bike
may not be stock, and a basic smaller steel ring is dead cheap.
Willem

[Kenny]

Ray, I have been following this discussion and thought I'd throw in
some comments. I didn't see where you discussed how much ride. But
unless you riding fairly steadily or 4 days a week for an hour or so
at a time, your butt is likely going to be sore because the tissues
that pad the sit bones in your pelvis are getting bruised and are not
toughened up yet by sufficient riding. So buying a new saddle may not
solve your sore butt problem, you just need more riding time until
your butt gets saddle broke. Having said that, some saddles fit some
people better than others, and with the wrong saddle you will never
get comfortable. So if you haven't been riding a lot, you may want to
rethink the saddle replacement. I have ridden gel saddles, Brooks,
Terry saddles and others, they all have their good points and bad.

What cadence are you pedaling at ? if you are pedaling too slow, less
than 50 or so strokes a minute, that can make your knees hurt. So if
you aren't riding in your lowest gear, dropping down a gear or two and
spinning a little faster might solve the knee issue.

As far as swapping out freewheels and chains etc. That depends on the
mileage of the components and has little to do with the age of the
bike. I have seen chains off a 25 year old bike loosen up and work
just fine after being thrown into a can of old motor oil and soaked
for a week. Likewise a frozen freewheel and old rusty cables. As far
as the cogs on the freewheel if you can't tell the condition by
looking at them, take the bike to someone who can. It is amazing how
funky some bike components can look and they still work just fine.

Tires, I put 27x 1 3/8 Kendas on several old bikes and they ride fine,
something like 12 bucks or so apiece.

Different bikeshops have different personalities, some are amenable to
helping someone who just rolls in off the street, others only want to
sell you a new bike and the services someone could do themselves if
they wanted to get their hands greasy. Shop time is expensive,
motorcycle shops charge upwards of 50 bucks an hour for to pay the
mechanic and the shop overhead, I assume the bicycle shops charge a
little less. So getting your old bike worked on will not be dirt
cheap, unless as some suggested, you can find a bike guy that just
likes to tinker with bikes and only charges a nominal amount for his
time.

Good luck

Kenny

[Ray Riendeau]

Hi Kenny,

                  On most occasions, its after dinner riding. And its my 9 year old daughter, who asks me every night to ride with her. So, most nights, its not an hour per night. It may be about 1/2 hour to 40 minutes. And the pace, well with her on her 20" bike, vs. my 27" tires, Id say im usually keeping slow for her, although she rides very fast for a kid. But between worrying about her, with passing cars, the pace is under 50 strokes a minute.  We both have lights, its just my worrying about her. And its riding in our development, which has some decent hills.  She even has an LED Light Set, so she is seen by cars, I have my old Schwinn Generator, which is surprisingly bright for bulbs, I just replaced.   Every so often I go out on my own, and then I do pull more than 50 pedal strokes.  So, the knee and butt issues could be from what you mention.  However, the Back Issue, would be best helped by riding more Upright, and I had thought/Without Knowing....that a Brooks Flyer Saddle, with Springs, would absorb some shock from going to my spine,when hitting possible bumps, or rougher terrain/gravel on shoulder.  But LBS Guy said the E-Gel would absorb that as well as springs.  Im sure that my components aren't beat from mileage. The Bike hasn't been killed with alot of miles.  Since the races, I have not ridden much.  Nothing is frozen, and I used Tri-Lube on all chains, and cogs, and cables...to lube them up.

 

            I would like to address the Tune-Up, and The Upright Position...whichever way is best to go in that regard.  I did replace the Tires and Tubes, and I did use the Kendas Gumwall Tires, which were about $15.00 each.  Kept original look, but new. So, I could wait on Freewheel, and move on to Tune Up...and best way to start riding Upright, Stem and Saddle Height....or New Bars Flatbar, and Saddle Height, along with Lever movement from where they are now.

 

                                      Thanks for adding, Ray

[Kenny]

As others have suggested, a taller stem to raise your bars, will help
with your position on the bike. The gel seat will not eliminate shock
anywhere near as well as a seat with springs or a "suspension" seat
post. Also, check your tire pressures to see if you can lower them.

http://www.bikequarterly.com/images/TireDrop.pdf

Kenny

[Aqhoward]

Wissahickon Cycles in Chestnut Hill, Phila is good.

Dr. Alistair Howard, Political Science

Temple University

424 Gladfelter Hall

1115 W. Berkshire, Philadelphia, PA 19122

Office Hours MWF 1:00 - 2:00

[Kruser]

Hi all.  I had a 1985 Le Tour Luxe 25" Frame that I rode rode across USA and it was my soul mate.  It got stolen and now I am either looking for another same size and year, or would someone be wiling to take their 25" 1985 Le Tour Luxe to a good bike shop and have it thoroughly measured so I can order a custom bike with the same geometry and specifications (obviously I loved my Tour de Luxe fit and geometry - perfect).  I am willing to pay someone for their time and trouble for doing this as well as the shop.  If you have one for sale please advise.

PS - Someone asked about new wheels.  Before riding coast-to-coast I bought a pair of 27" Bike Nashbar TANDEM wheels for mine - they rode incredibly well/smooth and were bulletproof even with a lot of weight.  Not sure if still offered, and back then they were set up to take a freewheel so the transition was easy though I changed freewheels, but imagine you can get somewhere and highly recommend it if you want strong wheels for touring.

[Ray Riendeau]

Hi Kruser...

                        Im from Philly, and I still have my Factory Original 1985 or 86, I have to look, Schwinn LeTour Luxe, but I think mine is 27"....whatever the Largest Frame Size was, that is what I have.  I too used mine in Triathalons, and any Racing or Touring I was involved with, since buying it New in 1985 or 1986 from "Liberty Bell Schwinn Cycles" on Frankford Avenue in Philadelphia....The Original Liberty Bell Cycles, not this new one there now.....The Original was owned by Carmen.  Anyway, my Luxe is the Sky Blue Color version...27" wheels, I would be willing to help you any way I can.  Best, Ray!!   Great Bike, I love Mine Too!!!

On Sat, Jan 28, 2012 at 4:45 PM, Kruser <mekr...@gmail.com> wrote:

Hi all.  I had a 1985 Le Tour Luxe 25" Frame that I rode rode across USA and it was my soul mate.  It got stolen and now I am either looking for another same size and year, or would someone be wiling to take their 25" 1985 Le Tour Luxe to a good bike shop and have it thoroughly measured so I can order a custom bike with the same geometry and specifications (obviously I loved my Tour de Luxe fit and geometry - perfect).  I am willing to pay someone for their time and trouble for doing this as well as the shop.  If you have one for sale please advise.

PS - Someone asked about new wheels.  Before riding coast-to-coast I bought a pair of 27" Bike Nashbar TANDEM wheels for mine - they rode incredibly well/smooth and were bulletproof even with a lot of weight.  Not sure if still offered, and back then they were set up to take a freewheel so the transition was easy though I changed freewheels, but imagine you can get somewhere and highly recommend it if you want strong wheels for touring.

--

You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Bicycle Lifestyle" group.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/bicyclelifestyle/-/aQC5tcv9PWcJ.

[dwluca...@aol.com]

You might also check ebay.  Vintage LeTour's show up there with surprising regularity.  

If you're not a regular ebay user, you should know that you can search for a specific item and then save that search so that whenever the desired item shows up for sale, you will be notified.

I'm sure you know but that "perfect" fit can be obtained on any number of frames.  For example, I have a custom Waterford (steel framed, curly polished lugs) that fits me perfectly, but I also have a Bike Friday Pocket Rocket with 20" (451) wheels that has the exact same fit.  Totally different frames and geometry; some "perfect" fit.

Bar width and style, brake lever placement, stem rise and length, saddle placement, crank length, etc. all contribute to that "perfect" fit and can be reproduced on any number of different frames.

I had a pretty much worthless (by contemporary standards) Schwinn Collegiate stolen once, and it was quite distressing to lose what I considered to be an old friend.  I had it outfitted with a rear child carrier, custom made rear wheel spoke protectors, and a good, comfortable Avocet saddle.  The paint was chipped and faded, and the rims and fenders had some rust, but it had character. That ol' piece of junk carried me to and from class at the Univ. of Illinois and then later carried me to and from work for years.  I took my two daughters to school on that bike and often carried groceries or my briefcase in the child seat.

It was not a "good" bike, but it had history with me, and i was more than a little upset to find it gone one night after work.  I did replace it with a more modern bike, but I still have days when I really just want to hop on the old Collegiate and run some errands.  My newer bikes are nice, but they still don't have the history that old bike had.

As a humorous point, I broke several brake cables trying to stop that old bike in the rain.  It had chromed steel rims and hard brake pads, and stopping in the rain was an exercise in advance planning and hand strength.  LOL

Good luck on your search.  

Dave

-----Original Message-----
From: Ray Riendeau <rayr...@gmail.com>
To: bicyclelifestyle <bicyclel...@googlegroups.com>

Sent: Fri, Feb 3, 2012 8:12 am
Subject: Re: {BL} Re: 1985 Schwinn Le Tour Luxe

[raymond bucher]

a 10 speed is 5 rings of teeth on the rear wheel with 2 rings of teeth on the pedals. I have a 70s swinn racer  27" wheels. I have been riding for 30 plus years at age 65..  with 7 rings of teeth on the rear wheel, and 2 rings of teeth on the pedals making it a 14 speed.

On Monday, December 13, 2010 6:35:19 AM UTC-6, Ray Riendeau wrote:

Hello All,

             I was wondering if anyone knows how, or what kind of wheels, I would ask for, if I wanted to get new wheels, for my 85 Schwinn Le Tour Luxe??  The current wheels are 27" Weinman Quick Release wheels. The bike has MAILLARD ATOM 77 5-Speed 14-16-19-23-28  that is from the catalog of Schwinn, with details of the bike.  Mine is 25" Frame, biggest they made.  But I thought my bike was a 15 Speed, or 18 speed, not a 10 speed.  Do these numbers indicate 10 speed??  If so, could I get a better, or different gear cog and dreailers to make the gears better for hills, etc...because I had knee surgeries, and sometimes when I finish riding, my knee gets sore.  I appreciate any advice.  I hope I provided the proper info.  If not, here is a link to the Catalog page, mine is the Le Tour Luxe, in Yellow Background print.  Thanks, Ray

P.S.  Here is Link: http://www.trfindley.com/flschwinn_1981_1990/1985Ltwt31.html

[raymond bucher]

[Ray R]

Oh, now I see why........I have 3 sets -Rings of teeth in the front, along pedals, making the Bike a 15 speed.....Thanks for suggestions!

--

You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Bicycle Lifestyle" group.

To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to bicyclelifesty...@googlegroups.com.

To post to this group, send email to bicyclel...@googlegroups.com.

Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/bicyclelifestyle.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.