2001 Elantra Brake Job
Meg Frairey
First, thank you for reading this message - I really appreciate it.
I'm going to attempt to replace the front brake pads on my 2001 Elantra, but first I
want to get some advice from some of the experts in this group. I have purchased the
brake pads, but my Dad says that sometimes you need a special tool or wrench to
complete the job. Is that true with my Elantra? If so, what do I need? Also, he says
that I should take the rotors to a local shop to be resurfaced, even if they look
and feel smooth. Is that also required in all cases and does that require special
tools?
Any tips you can give me before I start this thing would be greatly appreciated. I
have done some minor mechanical stuff with cars in the past, but have only watched
my Dad change his own brakes. I know what rotors and calipers and brake pads are but
other than that, I'm lost. I do know when I'm in over my head though, I'm not a
person who tends to break things and I'm not afraid to ask for help. If anyone
thinks this is a bad idea please just say so, you won't hurt my feelings.
Thanks in advance,
Meg
PS - Does anyone know what a Flex Pipe is? A mechanic at the Hyundai dealer told me
I'd need one soon. He wouldn't explain what it was but told me it would cost over
$600 to replace! Has anyone heard of this? Thanx again!
Edwin Pawlowski
"Meg Frairey" <Me...@comcast.net> wrote in message
> I'm going to attempt to replace the front brake pads on my 2001 Elantra,
> but first I
> want to get some advice from some of the experts in this group. I have
> purchased the
> brake pads, but my Dad says that sometimes you need a special tool or
> wrench to
> complete the job. Is that true with my Elantra? If so, what do I need?
> Also, he says
> that I should take the rotors to a local shop to be resurfaced, even if
> they look
> and feel smooth. Is that also required in all cases and does that require
> special
> tools?
First thing to do is become a little familiar with the parts. You can open
a free account with www.hmaservice.com and find a diagram of the brake
assembly as well as some instructions. Every model is listed, except the
2001 Elantra. Take a look at a different year though, as the basics are the
same.
As for resurfacing hte rotorsk most shops do that as standard procedure, but
if they are in otherwise perfect dondition, it would not necessarily be
needed. If they are grooved or warped (brake pulsating) they should be
turned or replaced. You can buy aftermarket rotors fairly cheap.
Are you familiar with how to properly jack and support the car? Use a jack
stand for safety, not just a jack. Be sre you have the tools you need
before starting and it is always a good idea to have another car available
just in case you need to run to the parts store and dad's car is not blocked
in by yours on the jack.
>
> PS - Does anyone know what a Flex Pipe is? A mechanic at the Hyundai
> dealer told me
> I'd need one soon. He wouldn't explain what it was but told me it would
> cost over
> $600 to replace! Has anyone heard of this? Thanx again!
Part of the exhaust. Go to an independent shop for a price too. Dealers
tend to be very high by comparison on certain services.
Rev. Tom Wenndt
had one of those "Haynes"-type manuals available. For things like brakes,
they are indispensible. Maybe someday soon that will happen, now that
Hyundais are getting more and more popular.
First of all, I will say that you have more guts than I do. There are a
number of neo-do-it-yourself jobs I will do on a vehicle, from tranny fluid,
to all my oil changes, to bulb replacements, a good sized list. And on a
couple of occasions, I have replaced brakes (both front and rear) with the
help of a fellow who, while also an amateur, has done it a number of times
and is not intimidated by it. But I have no guts (yet) to do it myself.
But my son's '02 Elantra (basically identical) just had its front pads
replaced. So I will give you what I learned from that.
Obviously, make sure you have a set of jack stands to put the vehicle on
after you have jacked each of the front wheels up (never leave it on the
jack while you work on it - just use it to pump the car up, then put the
stand in place).
For any front disc brake job, you will need a large C-clamp to push open the
caliper once you get it off, along with something (a small block of wood
will do) to put across the surface of the caliper. This is necessary
because the new brake pads will require the caliper to be opened
significantly more than you will find it. I have also used a simple bucket
to have a place to lay the caliper on so it doesn't have to hang by the
brake hoses.
On the subject of the caliper, opening it wider will mean opening the cap on
your master (brake) cylinder, and maybe removing some of the brake fluid, as
opening the caliper does force more fluid into the master cylinder.
Sometimes on these jobs, the fluid level (for me) has stopped close to level
full, and sometimes I have had to siphon some off. If you do have to, throw
out the old fluid, and replace it with new DOT4 brake fluid.
While there are a couple of special tools you definitely need for rear
brakes, for front, you won't need much more than your lug wrench, etc. to
get the tires off, a set of needlenose plyers (to remove the caliper), a
mallet to get off the rotors, as they sometimes are on awfully tight, and
some special brake grease that is used on the back of the pads and on a
couple of pivot points.
Your dad is ABSOLUTELY correct in saying that the rotors need to go to a
local shop and be re-surfaced (usually called "turned"). If you want proper
braking, you must have a perfectly smooth surface for the brakes. Most auto
parts stores have the necessary lathe, and will need the rotors for around
2-3 hours.
I am almost aghast at how many people seem to think this step is
unnecessary - they just replace pads, and on they go. But for your brakes
to work properly (something for safety's sake I think you would insist on),
you would want a perfect mate to the surface of the pad. Warping, stones,
etc. have virtually guaranteed that the surface will not be ideal for new
pads until it is re-surfaced.
And incidentally, the parts store can also tell you (usually immediately) if
the rotors even have enough 'meat' left on them to handle being turned. As
long as the brakes haven't been changed before, and the current brakes
haven't gotten down to "metal on metal," they should be fine. If they
aren't, you just buy new ones and put those back on your Elantra instead.
And take note that even if they are "turn-able," they will be only one time.
The next time, you will need to buy new rotors. Re-surfacing rotors in my
area costs around $12 a rotor, and new rotors for the Elantra are down in
the vicinity of around $25 apiece now.
After that, few surprises. One more thing - even as the price of rotors has
come down nicely, so you can get a pretty decent set of Elantra brake pads
for a pretty good price. That is one area that, while I do look for good
value, I don't try to always get THE cheapest ones I can find, at least not
with the front brakes. Most good sets also have a lifetime guarantee.
Now about your P.S. The flexpipe has been discussed on this board before.
Yes, it is that expensive, mostly because of what is in it. See if someone
can find you a used one. Or if you have more than one Hyundai dealer, shop
around for price.
Sorry for the length. Hope this helps.
"Meg Frairey" <Me...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:b2dko3t85re2i5q4b...@4ax.com...
Eric G.
news:fmeg0...@enews1.newsguy.com:
> For any front disc brake job, you will need a large C-clamp to push
> open the caliper once you get it off, along with something (a small
> block of wood will do) to put across the surface of the caliper. This
> is necessary because the new brake pads will require the caliper to be
> opened significantly more than you will find it. I have also used a
> simple bucket to have a place to lay the caliper on so it doesn't have
> to hang by the brake hoses.
Tom, great message, but one thing I wanted to clarifiy for the OP, so
he/she isn't forcing the issue: The caliper itself DOES NOT expand or
contract (well, OK, it might a little under temperature). It's the PISTON,
or PISTONS on some cars, inside the caliper that move in and out. Most
assuredly, you will have to use the C-clamp and piece of wood to push the
piston all the way in to the caliper to get a new set of pads to fit.
I hate stepping on your toes here, but I pictured the OP sitting on the
ground trying to figure out why the damned caliper wouldn't move.
Eric
Brian Nystrom
> The advice about the HMA account is very good. I only wish that the Elantra
> had one of those "Haynes"-type manuals available. For things like brakes,
> they are indispensible. Maybe someday soon that will happen, now that
> Hyundais are getting more and more popular.
I'm not sure why you feel the need for this, as the HMA site gives all
the instructions you need, plus detailed diagrams.
> First of all, I will say that you have more guts than I do. There are a
> number of neo-do-it-yourself jobs I will do on a vehicle, from tranny fluid,
> to all my oil changes, to bulb replacements, a good sized list. And on a
> couple of occasions, I have replaced brakes (both front and rear) with the
> help of a fellow who, while also an amateur, has done it a number of times
> and is not intimidated by it. But I have no guts (yet) to do it myself.
IMO, replacing brake pads is actually one of the easiest DIY mechanical
jobs one can do.
> But my son's '02 Elantra (basically identical) just had its front pads
> replaced. So I will give you what I learned from that.
>
> Obviously, make sure you have a set of jack stands to put the vehicle on
> after you have jacked each of the front wheels up (never leave it on the
> jack while you work on it - just use it to pump the car up, then put the
> stand in place).
>
> For any front disc brake job, you will need a large C-clamp to push open the
> caliper once you get it off, along with something (a small block of wood
> will do) to put across the surface of the caliper. This is necessary
> because the new brake pads will require the caliper to be opened
> significantly more than you will find it. I have also used a simple bucket
> to have a place to lay the caliper on so it doesn't have to hang by the
> brake hoses.
As Eric said, you are not "opening the caliper", but pushing the brake
piston in. Personally, I don't use a C-clamp. I put a block of wood over
the piston and pry it back in place. It moves slowly, so don't force it.
Either method will work.
If the car has ABS, the piston cannot be just pushed in, you need a ~$10
brake piston tool and a socket wrench with an extension to twist the
piston back in. This tool is also needed for all Elantra rear disc
brakes, ABS or not. When you start twisting the piston, watch the rubber
seal to make sure it releases from the piston. If it's stuck, it can
tear when you twist the piston. If need be, coax it loose with a
popsicle stick or similar blunt object, then turn the piston in.
> On the subject of the caliper, opening it wider will mean opening the cap on
> your master (brake) cylinder, and maybe removing some of the brake fluid, as
> opening the caliper does force more fluid into the master cylinder.
> Sometimes on these jobs, the fluid level (for me) has stopped close to level
> full, and sometimes I have had to siphon some off. If you do have to, throw
> out the old fluid, and replace it with new DOT4 brake fluid.
>
> While there are a couple of special tools you definitely need for rear
> brakes, for front, you won't need much more than your lug wrench, etc. to
> get the tires off, a set of needlenose plyers (to remove the caliper), a
> mallet to get off the rotors, as they sometimes are on awfully tight, and
> some special brake grease that is used on the back of the pads and on a
> couple of pivot points.
You don't need to remove the caliper for most brake jobs. I assume what
you're using the pliers for is to remove the clip that holds the brake
line, not the caliper. The caliper itself is held in place by two bolts
(12mm, IIRC) that run in bushings that allow it to slide laterally.
Work the bushings back and forth to ensure that the caliper can slide
freely. If need be, these should be greased with a high-temp brake
grease, by pulling back the seals and applying grease onto the bushings.
Given the age of the vehicle, I'd expect that lubrication will be necessary.
> Your dad is ABSOLUTELY correct in saying that the rotors need to go to a
> local shop and be re-surfaced (usually called "turned"). If you want proper
> braking, you must have a perfectly smooth surface for the brakes. Most auto
> parts stores have the necessary lathe, and will need the rotors for around
> 2-3 hours.
I disagree. Aside from the fact that turning the rotors is rarely
necessary, one problem with Elantras is that the rotors rust in place.
Removing them generally requires cutting them off. This is virtually
guaranteed to be the situation on an '01 car, if it has the original
rotors. To try to get them off with a hammer would require so much force
that you'll damage the rotors and possibly the wheel bearings. Given
that, unless the rotors are warped or severely worn, leave them alone
and just replace the pads. The new pads will bed into the existing
rotors after a few stops. Contrary to popular misconception, there is
nothing wrong with doing this and there is no loss of braking performance.
If the rotors need replacement, it's a somewhat more involved job, but
not especially difficult or expensive. Replacement rotors are generally
under $30 each. There are two large Phillips screws that hold the rotor
to the hub during assembly at the factory. More than likely the heads
will snap off them when you try to remove them, as they will be rusted
in place. If that happens, it doesn't matter, as they are there to make
it easier to handle the hub assembly at the factory and are not
necessary otherwise (the rotors are held in place by the wheels on the
Elantra). Once you have dealt with the screws, you can try giving the
rotors a few whacks with a mallet (rubber, plastic or wood faced) to see
if they'll come off, but it's very doubtful. If they won't budge, it
takes 10-15 minutes per rotor to cut them on both sides down to the hub
with a hacksaw, then split them with a screwdriver or cold chisel driven
into the cuts (it's easier than it sounds). Once you do that, the
sections of rotor come off pretty easily with a few hammer taps. You'll
probably need to brush and perhaps file off some of the rust on the hub
in order to get the new rotors to seat properly. Don't get too
aggressive, just clean them up enough to get the new rotors on. Once
they're in place, reassemble the brake with the new pads and you're good
to go.
> I am almost aghast at how many people seem to think this step is
> unnecessary - they just replace pads, and on they go. But for your brakes
> to work properly (something for safety's sake I think you would insist on),
> you would want a perfect mate to the surface of the pad. Warping, stones,
> etc. have virtually guaranteed that the surface will not be ideal for new
> pads until it is re-surfaced.
Sorry, but that's simply incorrect. In fact, the increased surface area
of a worn rotor actually increases stopping power compared to one that's
perfectly smooth. As long as the braking action of the car is smooth
now, with no pulsation that would indicate warped or unevenly worn
rotors, there is nothing to be gained by replacing them unless they are
simply worn too thin, which is unlikely unless this car is already on
its second set of pads, or more.
I had to replace my rotors at the first pad change, due to a defective
original brake pad causing one to wear improperly. Part of the rotor was
not contacted by the pad at all, resulting in a 1/2" raised ridge near
the periphery that would have caused a problem with new pads. Had it not
been for that, the rotors would have been fine. One unexpected advantage
to the new rotors I installed (Pep Boys standard rotors) is that they're
far less prone to rusting than the stock rotors, which rust rapidly when
exposed to moisture.
Meg Frairey
Thank you all for the valuable information. It's helped me to decide to let my
mechanic perform the operation - that and Dad came up with the cash to pay for it. I
am going to watch the mechanic do the job though and maybe next time I'll tackle it
myself.
Thanks again!
Meg
irwell
wrote:
Very wise decision, your life could depend on your
brakes performing right.
By all means learn how to work on your cars, but some jobs have to be
left to the professionals.
Mike Marlow
Aw, c'mon Meg. You can do it. My Meg has done it. As has my Amy and My
Sarah. None of them are what you'd consider to be grease balls, and they'll
probably never do another (well... maybe Amy will), but they've all done
brake jobs. It's a walk in the park. If there's one reason why I believe
it's worthwhile for you to do one, it's to gain the first hand knowledge of
what's involved (read: how simple it is), so you don't get hosed by a shark
later on. Call me foolish, but I like the idea of all of my kids gaining
the confidence and the knowledge of what goes into some jobs, if for no
other reason than to protect them from getting taken advantage of down the
road.
Don't care if any of my kids ever change their own oil, do a brake job, or
ever do anything on their own cars, ever again. Just happy they know what's
involved in some of these tasks and will make informed decisions in the
future.
--
-Mike-
mmarlo...@alltel.net
Mike Marlow
"irwell" <ho...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:p4ppo35ur1aqh4hgi...@4ax.com...
Well intended advice, but bad advice. Learn how to do a brake job before
issuing scare-tactic advice like this. Learn what's involved, and learn how
improbable the disaster you suggest is, before advising like this. Brake
jobs are very simple to do correctly. Leaving it to the professionals may
sound like it has meaning, but it does not. If you can remove your gas cap,
and re-install it, you can do a brake job. It just requires a small amount
of willingness.
--
-Mike-
mmarlo...@alltel.net
Victek
>>>wrote:
>>>
>>>Thank you all for the valuable information. It's helped me to decide to
>>>let my
>>>mechanic perform the operation - that and Dad came up with the cash to
>>>pay for it. I
>>>am going to watch the mechanic do the job though and maybe next time I'll
>>>tackle it
>>>myself.
>>>
>>>Thanks again!
>>>Meg
>>
>> Very wise decision, your life could depend on your
>> brakes performing right.
>>
>> By all means learn how to work on your cars, but some jobs have to be
>> left to the professionals.
>
> Well intended advice, but bad advice. Learn how to do a brake job before
> issuing scare-tactic advice like this. Learn what's involved, and learn
> how improbable the disaster you suggest is, before advising like this.
> Brake jobs are very simple to do correctly. Leaving it to the
> professionals may sound like it has meaning, but it does not. If you can
> remove your gas cap, and re-install it, you can do a brake job. It just
> requires a small amount of willingness.
>
Maybe an appropriate middle ground would be to do one's first brake job
under supervision?
irwell
<mmarlo...@alltel.net> wrote:
>
>"irwell" <ho...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>news:p4ppo35ur1aqh4hgi...@4ax.com...
>> On Tue, 15 Jan 2008 09:34:55 -0500, Meg Frairey <Me...@comcast.net>
>> wrote:
>>
>>>On Sun, 13 Jan 2008 11:15:42 -0500, Meg Frairey <Me...@comcast.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>Thank you all for the valuable information. It's helped me to decide to
>>>let my
>>>mechanic perform the operation - that and Dad came up with the cash to pay
>>>for it. I
>>>am going to watch the mechanic do the job though and maybe next time I'll
>>>tackle it
>>>myself.
>>>
>>>Thanks again!
>>>Meg
>>
>> Very wise decision, your life could depend on your
>> brakes performing right.
>>
>> By all means learn how to work on your cars, but some jobs have to be
>> left to the professionals.
>
>Well intended advice, but bad advice. Learn how to do a brake job before
>issuing scare-tactic advice like this. Learn what's involved, and learn how
>improbable the disaster you suggest is, before advising like this.
Have done several brake jobs over the past 50 years,
my (good) advice still holds.
>Brake >jobs are very simple to do correctly. Leaving it to the professionals may
>sound like it has meaning, but it does not. If you can remove your gas cap,
>and re-install it, you can do a brake job.
Correctly is the operative word here.
I once tried out a car from a private seller, nice looking vehicle and
a bargain price. Cruising at about 40 mph, I tried the brakes, the car
rolled over after pulling to the left harshly. Turns out the seller
had done his own brake work.
> It just requires a small amount
>of willingness.
And experience, and GOOD advice.
Edwin Pawlowski
I'm sorry to hear that. YOU can do it. Really.
Mike Marlow
>>>
>>> Very wise decision, your life could depend on your
>>> brakes performing right.
>>>
>>> By all means learn how to work on your cars, but some jobs have to be
>>> left to the professionals.
>>
>>Well intended advice, but bad advice. Learn how to do a brake job before
>>issuing scare-tactic advice like this. Learn what's involved, and learn
>>how
>>improbable the disaster you suggest is, before advising like this.
>
> Have done several brake jobs over the past 50 years,
> my (good) advice still holds.
I disagree. If you had offered advice on how to do the job I'd have agreed.
I don't agree with a blanket statement that a brake job is best left to
"professionals". Your advice above, only suggests that she should never
attempt a brake job because her life depends on it.
>
> Correctly is the operative word here.
> I once tried out a car from a private seller, nice looking vehicle and
> a bargain price. Cruising at about 40 mph, I tried the brakes, the car
> rolled over after pulling to the left harshly. Turns out the seller
> had done his own brake work.
>
So what. Many people - perhaps hundreds or more, have driven cars I've done
brake jobs on with no problems. If you rolled a car by braking at 40mph,
then you did a lot more than just "try" the brakes. Or, there was something
else drastically wrong with that car. No matter though, because the fact
that someone did a faulty brake job is not reason to tell another person
that their very life depends on it and to go to a professional.
>
>> It just requires a small amount
>>of willingness.
>
> And experience, and GOOD advice.
My point exactly.
--
-Mike-
mmarlo...@alltel.net
Mike Marlow
"Edwin Pawlowski" <e...@snet.net> wrote in message
news:WBcjj.90$uE...@newssvr22.news.prodigy.net...
To tag on to Edwin's encouragement Meg, if you really want to do it, and you
really want to learn how, then you have a couple of choices. You can indeed
watch the mechanic, and if he's someone you or your Dad know, hopefully you
can ask him questions and learn a lot from watching him do the work. This
can indeed be a good approach.
Likewise, if you want, you can purchase a Haynes manual for your car
(typically around $20 in auto parts stores), or a like publication, and
follow the procedures in it. Though you are a bit more on your own with
this approach, these manuals are really well documented and include lots of
pictures to assist the first timer. You could do a complete brake job with
nothing more than a manual like this at your side. Admittedly, not as
preferred an approach as being able to work with someone else who is more
experienced, on your first brake job, but it does demonstrate that what
Edwin says is true - you can do it. And, you can do it right.
Wanna try it on your own? Bring your questions before you start, right
here. There's a ton of experience here and lots of people who will offer
you solid advice and tips. You could get the entire procedure outlined for
you before you even start.
A little afraid of that approach? That's fine. Do what makes you more
comfortable. If watching the mechanic do the job is more reassuring to you,
then by all means, do that. Just take from this discussion that you can
indeed do your own brakes properly, and it does not take any amount of skill
or knowledge that the average car owner does not already posses.
--
-Mike-
mmarlo...@alltel.net
irwell
<mmarlo...@alltel.net> wrote:
>>
>> And experience, and GOOD advice.
>
>My point exactly.
It sems that Meg's father is inclined more
to the above point of view, i.e. get some experience
by either helping or watching a pro do it.
Just for the record my first car was 1935 Morris Ten,
since then my kids and I have owned, like most folks,
several makes and models.
To keep them running with the lowest expenditure we
have done the following amongst other jobs.
Replaced radiators, hoses, brake linings and pads, batteries,
spark plugs, oil and filters, distributors. iginition coils,
rebuilt carburettors, rebuilt alternators (brushes), rotated wheels,
constant velocity joint.
Jobs left to more experienced mechanics include timing belt,
clutch replacement, if my 2001 Elantra requires that type of
work probabaly use the dealer, they have been quite good so far.
Edwin Pawlowski
> have done the following amongst other jobs.
>
> Replaced radiators, hoses, brake linings and pads, batteries,
> spark plugs, oil and filters, distributors. iginition coils,
> rebuilt carburettors, rebuilt alternators (brushes), rotated wheels,
> constant velocity joint.
>
> Jobs left to more experienced mechanics include timing belt,
> clutch replacement, if my 2001 Elantra requires that type of
> work probabaly use the dealer, they have been quite good so far.
What, no water pumps? I remember replacing the water pump on my '71 Ford
V-8 and could not remember how the belts (3) went back on. I got in my
other car and drove around town looking for a similar model on a used car
lot. Found one, marked the belt sequence, went back home and finished. It
was also dark and very cold and I had no garage.
Today, I'm older and fortunately make a little more money so I"m willing to
pay for some repairs. I no longer crawl under cars in the cold. Or the
heat. But I'm also a little less likely to get screwed over by a shady shop
because I know the basics.
irwell
wrote:
>
>"irwell" <ho...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>>
>> To keep them running with the lowest expenditure we
>> have done the following amongst other jobs.
>>
>> Replaced radiators, hoses, brake linings and pads, batteries,
>> spark plugs, oil and filters, distributors. iginition coils,
>> rebuilt carburettors, rebuilt alternators (brushes), rotated wheels,
>> constant velocity joint.
>>
>> Jobs left to more experienced mechanics include timing belt,
>> clutch replacement, if my 2001 Elantra requires that type of
>> work probabaly use the dealer, they have been quite good so far.
>
>What, no water pumps?
Yes, at least a couple, also the power steering pump. tore it down
just to replace a faulty O-ring that caused the fluid to leak.
> I remember replacing the water pump on my '71 Ford
>V-8 and could not remember how the belts (3) went back on. I got in my
>other car and drove around town looking for a similar model on a used car
>lot. Found one, marked the belt sequence, went back home and finished. It
>was also dark and very cold and I had no garage.
>
>Today, I'm older and fortunately make a little more money so I"m willing to
>pay for some repairs.
Ditto, my four score years have come and gone, so if I get under
the car I have to cry for help to get back out!
Brian Nystrom
> to see me crawling under my car or truck occasionally.
>
> A couple of days ago I pulled a rear wheel off of my car in order to
> examine the wear on the brakes. They were worn and ready for
> replacement. At that point I put the wheel back on took it to a shop
> and had them replaced. It can be a hassle when one must take the
> rotors off at home and carry them to shop and wait for them to be
> turned. They did need to be turned because they were warped.
If that was the case, you'd have been better off to replace them. Rotors
are so cheap that turning them is pointless.
Rev. Tom Wenndt
minivan and my son's Elantra within the last month or so.
The place I went to WAS able to turn the rotors on both vehicles. They also
sell me the Raybestos ceramic brake pads for what I would pay for them if I
just bought them retail (both somewhere in the $30-40 range). And they
charged $55 for labor, including the rotor turns.
That sure beats trying to do it in the cold. And the fellow who does them I
KNOW is going to do them right. All in all, a small price to pay for safety
and assurance.
"Meg Frairey" <Me...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:5tgpo3p350t8h1oo6...@4ax.com...
Dave Edwards
Chevy, and replaced it with a JC Whitney 327.
I also grovelled underneath my '70 Camaro to yank the trans to replace the
clutch & pressure plate...banged out U joints from the drive shaft to
replace also. On the Camaro, I was always swapping out a new Holley with a
'better' one. Headers, shocks, exhaust, intake manifolds, alternators and
yes...brakes were all done in my folk's garage.
But time marched on, and now I am pretty certain I would be on my way to
Meineke if my '04 Santa Fe needed brakes.
I must say I got soft, having a company car all through the '80s and '90s.
But now that I am back on the 35 cents a mile to use my own car for
work....I may again 25 or 30 years later.....shop for a Chilton's manual!!!!
.....now where are my torque wrenches????
....Dave
"Rev. Tom Wenndt" <trwe...@grics.net> wrote in message
news:fmnt4...@enews2.newsguy.com...
hyundaitech
> unnecessary - they just replace pads, and on they go. But for your
brakes
> to work properly (something for safety's sake I think you would insist
on),
> you would want a perfect mate to the surface of the pad. Warping,
stones,
> etc. have virtually guaranteed that the surface will not be ideal for
new
> pads until it is re-surfaced.
Sorry, but that's simply incorrect. In fact, the increased surface area
of a worn rotor actually increases stopping power compared to one that's
perfectly smooth. As long as the braking action of the car is smooth
now, with no pulsation that would indicate warped or unevenly worn
rotors, there is nothing to be gained by replacing them unless they are
simply worn too thin, which is unlikely unless this car is already on
its second set of pads, or more."
I think the real answer here is that it depends on the condition of the
rotors. Check to see that the braking surfaces are smooth and are not
rusted. If smooth and clean, and your brakes do not vibrate when applied,
there's no advantage to resurfacing the rotors. In fact, it's a
disadvantage. You'll be removing material from the rotor, which will
decrease its ability to dissipate heat, and you'll also be reducing your
ability to have the rotors resurfaced in the future-- there's a minimum
thickness specification.
--
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nothermark
personal brake job on my elantra weekend before last - new front pads
~ 1 hr. Most time spent getting out and putting back tools. Total
cost $24 for "lifetime" pads from Autozone. Note - Rotors a bit
grooved, toss them next time. 500 miles and multiple stops at various
speeds - they work fine.
Professional brake job last quote $300 for the same job.
Observation on watching the professional. Unless it's Dad the only
thing he will try to really show you is why you should pay him to do
it.