DyzEnd Pro hotend loose

[mjhendren]

I've been having some clogging issues, but this time I could not get it fixed. Tried to remove my nozzle, no luck. Kept trying when I noticed the hotend itself is loose from the heat break. I expect this is bad?!?

At this point I have nothing to lose, so I'm going to go after that nozzle hard...

[mjhendren]

I just broke a socket trying to get the nozzle off... Brand new DyzEnd Pro that is now trash...

[Technical Support]

Hi!

Could you please share some pictures of your current setup? Maybe we can help.

For a clogged nozzle, we strongly suggest doing a cold pull, you can check here: https://docs.dyzedesign.com/hotends.html#filament-jammed-nozzle-clogged

Hope it helps!

Phil Support Team
	100-1505 Saint-Thomas Lemoyne, Quebec, Canada, J4P 3S2
	dyzedesign.com

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[mjhendren]

Hey Phil,

I've done mashed up the nozzle to the point it is round. Broke a socket, then used vise grips on the heat block and and nozzle. Chewed up the exterior of the heat block, and still can't get the nozzle to budge. Should the heat block be loose from the heat sink?

I figure at this point I've nothing left to lose, so I plan to cut the nozzle head off for a flat surface, then use a screw extractor bit. I've already ordered a new heat block in the hopes the rest isn't damaged. I already broke the thermistor before I had the bright idea to take it apart. In my defense, I thought I was just going to swap nozzles, not wrestle it.

I'm certain the clogging is my fault. This is the first time I've ever done anything like this (as if it weren't obvious). A few times it was too close to the bed, and I later learned to not use so much retraction. I was playing with feedrate and pressure advance when the 'final' clog occurred. It was about 1/3 into a 6 hour print. One of my air duct shifted and made contact with heat block. It wasn't terrible, but it melted a hole into thin plastic. It may have been coincidental.

Thanks,

Matt

[mjhendren]

[mjhendren]

Ok, thanks anyway. I guess.

[Technical Support]

Thanks for sharing the pictures!

After loosening the nozzle, the heatbreak and the heatblock should begin to get loose from the heatsink.

It seems like the molten filament from the duct has gotten in the threads and glues everything together. In those situations, a hot nozzle change is highly suggested.

Thanks!

Phil Support Team
	100-1505 Saint-Thomas Lemoyne, Quebec, Canada, J4P 3S2
	dyzedesign.com

[mjhendren]

I initially tried a hot nozzle removal that failed. Then I broke a socket on the nozzle. Then nozzle got rounded off by my use of vise grips to attempt to remove. I cut the tip of the nozzle off so that I could use a screw extractor drill bit to remove the nozzle. The bit just sank all the way into the nozzle without ever budging the nozzle. Initially I just thought the nozzle was really stuck, but now I'm thinking the nozzle is just very soft. I thought they were tungsten carbide nozzles...

Well, I've got a pile of crap right now. I've order a few replacement parts, and I am hoping to salvage the hotend. However, now it looks like I've got to cut the heat block off.

[Technical Support]

Hi Matt,

Regarding drilling the nozzle, have you removed the tungsten carbide insert? Only the tip of the nozzle is made from tungsten carbide. The rest of the part is made from steel.

Regards,

Phil Support Team
	100-1505 Saint-Thomas Lemoyne, Quebec, Canada, J4P 3S2
	dyzedesign.com

[mjhendren]

I drilled right through the end of the nozzle...

But don't worry anymore. I bought some parts and was able to restore my hotend to working condition. 

That's all I wanted all along was the technical advice on fixing my mess. Turns out it was quicker just to guess, order parts, wait to receive them, and install them, than to seek assistance. Y'all must be busy, one way or another.

Love your extruder.

[Technical Support]

Thanks for your comments and patience Matt.

We are still a small business afterall, indeed, and we rely on our team (no external support service) for tickets.

I hope you'll get some nice prints with the repaired setup!

Phil Support Team
	100-1505 Saint-Thomas Lemoyne, Quebec, Canada, J4P 3S2
	dyzedesign.com

[mjhendren]

Thank you for your kind wishes. 

I've finally found what my problem was, I think. The washer on the back of the nozzle wasn't seated correctly, or fully... something.

I didn't realize you were a small business.

Good luck!

[Technical Support]

That makes sense!

Make sure to hold the nozzle vertically when you are tightening it. This wait, it's going to keep in the nozzle seat. You can check on our documentation how I keep the nozzle vertically during the tightening process: https://docs.dyzedesign.com/hotends.html#nozzle-change

Regards,

Phil Support Team
	100-1505 Saint-Thomas Lemoyne, Quebec, Canada, J4P 3S2
	dyzedesign.com

[mjhendren]

I place a 1.5 mm Allen wrench in the heat break and washer as I screw in the nozzle. Screw until it tightens, back it off a little then wiggle the Allen wrench a little then tighten all the way. And per instruction I saw somewhere, I reconnect the heater cartridge and thermistor to be able to heat up the hotend. I then tighten again.  Let it cool. Then I look through the nozzle from the heat break side to see the light in the hole of the nozzle. And then reassemble the whole hotend/heat sink.

It seemed to be working great at first. But at one point it just quit printing. Still moved, just no plastic. I thought clog, again. But it turns out my extruder was so hot that the filament semi-liquified in the extruder... I'm trying to fix by turning down the amperage. (I really don't know what I'm doing though.)

Thanks, I'm sure I'll be hitting you up again, but I understand that you probably have many roles to fill.

Matt

[Technical Support]

Indeed, you got it right, the current is probably too high, and this can damage the motor or soften the filament.

Considering the feedback from different customers using different hardware, it seems like monitoring heat is the only reliable source for tuning the current. Some drivers (like on the Duet 3) needs to be tuned as low as 350mA in order to be in-specs with the motor temperature rise.

Regards,

Phil Support Team
	100-1505 Saint-Thomas Lemoyne, Quebec, Canada, J4P 3S2
	dyzedesign.com