PULSAR NOZZLE

[Micheal Torrey]

Were currently using the Pulsar Nozzle on our 10X8X8 Printer -Were also using Mainsail and Klipper (Printer Cfg) - Our bed mesh across this distance is .2 mm! Yet were still having trouble getting a consistent flow and layers that don't break like peanut brittle. Any suggestions? Can we use Pressure advance to control oozing? Were printing at 155 Celsius and suspect a error in our thermostat as well because of this. Any suggestions for a consistent flow - Current Settings Here:  Extrusion: ~ 102 mm @ 6.4 mm³/s - 1 mm

[Corrado Steri]

We had the exact same problem of erratic flow rate until we switched to round pellets. On Pulsar in our experience only round pellets can be used to have a regular flow rate.

[Technical Support]

Hello Michael,

What material are you printing with and what are the 3 heaters temperatures ?

I don't think pressure advance would help much regarding oozing as there is no retraction with the Pulsar and given the size of the nozzle it would probably not counteract this effect much.

It seems that you are using Klipper with the Pulsar, it is unfortunately not a firmware supported by us for this product currently, have you calibrated the steps_per_mm / extruder rotation distance ?

It is true that pellet size and shape can affect the flow, spherical pellets do indeed work the best as opposed to cylindrical ones that can cause feeding issues.

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "DYZE DESIGN" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to support-dyze-de...@dyzedesign.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/a/dyzedesign.com/d/msgid/support-dyze-design/a7018833-e4bc-4e2b-9f10-547ba4792c7bn%40dyzedesign.com.

--

Flo Support Team
	100-1505 Saint-Thomas Lemoyne, Quebec, Canada, J4P 3S2
	dyzedesign.com

[Micheal Torrey]

Were printing with PLA 4040 Spherical pellets - Can you recommend any visual cues we should note during the print process to make adjustments - Currently having over extrusion. 

Questions: How fast should the nut be spinning on top? Were printing at 161 Celsius and the  PLA is melting? is our thermostat broken? should we be printing hotter? 

Here's some printing footage

https://www.youtube.com/live/BuFT3jnlXak?feature=share

https://youtube.com/shorts/3LdyO5VEGOA?feature=share

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/nkYJVvYuJhY

[Technical Support]

It's hard to say from the videos as they are not close ups, if you can send us close up images or videos of the problem that would be better to help you find the problem.

Like regular desktop printing you can calibrate the extrusion width by measuring the actual extrusion line width and adjust either the flow or the steps per mm to get the expected line width.

I'm not sure what you are saying by brittle layers, generally brittle layers coming apart are a sign of under extrusion and not overextrusion but you are saying that you have an overextrusion problem.

I find 155C for printing PLA quite low indeed, all the PLA we tested were printing at about 170 to 200C. If the line width is inconsistent it may very well be that the material doesn't have enough time to melt properly and is creating air pockets that results in inconsistent extrusion.

How fast the screw should be spinning depends on your extrusion line width and height, for the recommended flow rates by materials and therefore max flow, you can refer to our doc here: https://docs.dyzedesign.com/pulsar.html#recommended-flow-rate-g-hr

What are your printing parameters: line width, line height, nozzle size, printing speed, temp for heater 1, heater 2 and heater 3 ?

Also don't forget to set up your slicer for 2.85mm filament, even if it is not filament but pellets you are printing with, setting up the slicer for 1.75mm will get you inconsistent results as well.

If you observe normal ambient temps when cold and all 3 temp sensors are raising to expected values when heating I don't think there is a problem with your thermistors.