Thanks Dominik, either stop ui or
dbus-send --system --dest=org.chromium.DisplayService --print-reply /org/chromium/DisplayService org.chromium.DisplayServiceInterface.ReleaseOwnership
work. Then modetest -s DP-5:1920x1080-24 (for instance) shows a test card at any supported resolution and refresh rate. Just one issue though: I couldn't find how to light up more than one screen at a time, not even with modetest -d. So MST testing for instance.
TakeOwnership restores the interface... to the initial resolutions, previous modetest commands are forgotten.
PS: not all but some resolution mysteries have been explained, see updates in 775757