On traditional bikes, there often was a lip on the locknut that would bottom out at the top of the steerer. We occasionally got headsets with that lip, but we would machine it out since the locknut needed to thread down past the top of the steerer. So if you get a new one and it has the lip, you'll have to machine that out.I'd check and double check you have a 1⅛" headset. Nearly all of the bikes we made with threaded headsets were 1¼". There are exceptions, but they were far less common. The problem: no one makes 1¼" headsets and they haven't been available for a long time. Might want to get headtube reducers and go to 1⅛" if that's the case.On Wed, May 21, 2025 at 2:16 PM Peter Stock <lug...@gmail.com> wrote:--threaded headset questionToronto, Canadaa quick question about threaded headsets on BFs.
i am rebuilding a BF with threaded steerer that was repainted.
I have mislaid the original 1 1/8th headset so I am out looking for another.
on a BF (IIRC) the locknut has to thread down far enough that ther is a section of the threaded steerer exposed, to take the stem riser.
is it normal for a threaded headset locknut to be able to be just screwed down and down and down like that?
I seem to remember my threaded headsets on traditional bikes "topping out" at the top of the steerer tube.
If so, how do I make a locknut work on a BF setup
or am I misremembering? (I don't have a threaded fork and headset at hand right now to experiment with )
Peter Stock
another great conversation from the Bike Friday Yak!
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