John S. Allen <jsa...@bikexprt.com>: Apr 18 10:02PM -0400
Hello,, I own a 1997 NWT which I bought refurbished from the factory in
2005.
The threads of the cranks for the pedals are munged up from repeated
installations including an attempt to install pedals on the wrong side.
I need to replace these cranks.
Description:
* Square taper
* 74 and 110 mm 5-hole bolt circles.
* The bike originally came with a single 44T chainring in the middle
position and a trouser protector disc in the outer. position.
* The cranks are painted black
* They bear the lettering Shimano VIA 170 on the back, which is concave.
* *The cranks are very "bow-legged" for extra clearance at the
chainstays.*
* Unusually, The bolt holes for the 74mm bolt circle are essentially
level with the inner face of the crank around the spindle hole.
I installed a replacement left crank, and because it is not as
"bow-legged", it will interfere with and damage the quick release of the
rear brake if that is open.
I tried to install a replacement right crank (Sugino AT) and it would
not work because the bolt circles are closer to the bicycle's centerline.
I see a Shimano crankset on eBay which looks similar but I am not sure
-- https://www.ebay.com/itm/389859392083. And it is 175mm, which I don't
want.
Can y=anyone supply a crankset, used OK, from a bicycle which has been
refurbished with another crankset, or point me to where I might purchase
one? If I can't get one as "bowlegged", I'll have to replace the bottom
bracket with one that is longer on both sides. That also might be an
option. but I'd rather just replace the crankset.
--
John S. Allen
CyclingSavvy Instructor
League Cycling instructor
Author, Bicycling Street Smarts
Technical Writer and Editor, sheldonbrown.com
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Vince Mackenzie <deniab...@gmail.com>: Apr 19 08:11AM +0100
When we built up bikes in the uk. We used to buy shimano rsx triple
chainsets. The outer ring was moved to the middle. This worked with a 110mm
bb.
Hope this us of some help.
Vince
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frkrygow <frkr...@gmail.com>: Apr 19 09:39AM -0700
I'm surprised the pedal threads can't be repaired, maybe by careful use of
a tap (starting from the backside). If pedals aren't frequently removed,
could that plus some version of Loctite (blue or the even weaker purple) do
the job?
Failing that, I thought that there were Helicoil or similar inserts
available. But I admit I never encountered that problem.
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Walter Lapchynski <w...@bikefriday.com>: Apr 19 09:46AM -0700
I'd use the tap first, too. A lot of times the issue is the first few
threads.
The Helicoil is a great idea, but it would require a significant
enlarging of the pedal hole, which ultimately should be done with a mill.
That said, it's not a job for your average home mechanic.
Cranks running into linear pull brakes that are open should be expected.
I'm a little shocked that there's any crank that would clear them. That
said, any replacement crank should do the trick. I think most would
probably prefer a crank with less of a Q-factor anyways.
Finally, I'll recommend MKS Ezy pedals as a better solution for travel. The
pedal body and axle quick release off a small coupling that stays in the
crank. This eliminates the need for a pedal wrench and all but removes the
possibility of encountering similar problems. They have a wide array of
options, including some quick release ones. And they're fantastic pedals on
their own right.
--
Walter Lapchynski
Sales Consultant | Information Services Assistant
Green Gear Cycling dba Bike Friday
direct line +1 541-234-5126
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