KERALA--KOTTAYAM, OH KOTTAYAM
Dr. P.K. John
*KOTTAYAM OH KOTTAYAM
* Kottayam is the capital of Kottayam district in Kerala.
*One of a series on people and places in Kerala
Dr.P.K.John
Toronto
Ontario
Canada
e mail:- ve3...@sympatico.ca
December 1, 1997
KOTTAYAM is the biggest city I had ever seen until I was about 18 years
old. Naturally I have a soft spot in my heart for Kottayam, especially
that cradle civilization , Thirunakkara which formed the core part of
Kottayam. My own village home was in Thottakad about twelve miles from
Kottayam on the Kottayam -Karukachal road. My Mother's Home was in
Aymenum on the shores of river Meenachil ,now made famous by Susimol's
' God of small things' telling the story. Palai, Bharananganam
Kanjirappalli and other important centers of Tea, Rubber and black
pepper are close by , but my favorite town is Erattupetta a small town
noted for the harmony amongst it's Christians, Moslems and Hindus and
the famous Aruvithura church. I loved my long bus trips from Kottayam to
Erattupetta every weekend , passing through some of the places mentioned
earlier.I was in charge of the Government hospital in Erattupetta.
D.C. Kizakkemuri, writing in Malayala Manorama remembers Kottayam as a
small town which did not have even a two story building at one time.
Cars were infrequently seen on the roads. bullock carts and bicycles
were plentiful . The only public meeting place was a wood-floor hall at
the Kottayam public library which could accommodate about 50 people.
As a primary school student I remember 'Thirunakkara Maithanam' and a
public well on the South- east corner of it. It was one of the deepest
wells I have ever seen. I used to watch people fetch water using the
bucket and pulley technique. There was a mobil petrol station and
private bus stand close by. I remember the open body ' carbon gas' ?
(kari gas) powered buses which had such boards as KOTTAYAM- MALLAPPALI ,
KOTTAYAM- RANNI and so on. I even remember some of the drivers
-Pillaachan, Philip chettan and so on.
Talking about meeting places to day, Kottayam has an abundance of them.
Among them are K.P.S. Menon auditorium on Public library grounds,
Darshana auditorium, Shri Rangam, Yuhanon Marthoma hall, Trade center,
Mattithra hall, Padinjarekkara auditorium, Y.M.C.A.,Jawahar BalaBhavan,
Kottarathil Shankunni memorial hall, and Sumangali at Kodimatha.
My late uncle who was a dentist who practiced out of an office at the
south east corner of the intersection of M.C.Road and K.K.Road. He
worked out of the second floor of a two story building. It was a
stopover whenever we were in transit to Aymanam from Thottakkad. Among
the many memories was a cubicle precariously balanced on the side of
one of his rooms and supported on the roof of the next building. It
was an unusual urinal with a single pipe going down all the way to the
ground for plumbing. I was always afraid off falling over the side, or
of the urinal itself collapsing on me. In later years my uncle moved to
a more posh location at the north east corner of the same intersection
on top of a drugstore.
My years at Kottayam bring back memories of 'Rossariose' bakery where
my uncle treated me to my first 'biriyani' ever. Later 'Best Bakery'
came. I think that the building was previously 'Ceter theater' owned
by 'Maliekkal Cheriichayan' a relative of mine. Best hotel or bestotal
as they call themselves served excellent tea. They also had half decent
wash rooms. My uncle frequented these two early hangouts till 'Swagath'
came along. Today Rossariose and Swagath are no longer in existence.
According to D.C.Kizakkemuri two important people in the history of
Kottayam are Rama Rao, a diwan of erstwhile Travancore state and an
Englih man named Benchamin Bailey who established the first printing
press in Kottayam.
T. Rama Rao started his career in the secretariat at Thiruvanthapuram as
a clerk with a monthly salary of Rs.10.00 in 1851. He rose to the
position of Dewan by 1887. Just previous to that he was 'diwan peshkar'
of the northern division of Travancore. The northern division's capital
was Cherthalai. Rama Rao tried to move the capital of northern division
of Travancore to Kottayam but ran in to opposition from Cherthalites and
the Maharaja himself (Ayillyam thirunal Rama Varma). In the mean time
Ayilyam Thirunal passed away and Another Maharaja who was devoted to
literature took the helms of the government in Travancore. With his
support Dewan Rama Rao succeeded in shifting the capital of northern
division of Travancore to Kottayam in 1880. The other divisions in the
state of Travancore then were Padmanabhapuram, Thiruvanthapuram, and
Kollam.
Kottayam was just a village at that time. At the top of Thirunakkara
hill a parade ground took shape. To day it is the well-known
Thirunakkara Maidanam. Rama Rao's other contributions included
construction of a canal to Aleppy (Puthan thodu ), giving importance to
K.K.road and Kottayam Ettumannur road, and establishment of the Kottayam
public library. Rama Rao also started the famous Thazathangadi
Vallamkali (boat race ).Agricultural exhibitions and the establishment
of a jilla hospital were also his accomplishments.
Benchamin Bailey who established a printing press is credited with the
publication of a translation of the Bible and English-Malayalam and
Malayalam-English dictionaries. He is also credited with the first
printed newspaper -njananishepam.
To day Kottayam ranks first amongst some 500 jillas in India. Hundred
percent literacy was declared in this ancient town on June 12, 1989.
But Kottayam has changed and I am not even sure whether I like it as
much as the Kottayam in my heart.
It is two years ago that I last visited Kottayam. I stopped at some of
my old favorite places. The electronic and appliance store near
Thirunakkara temple ("swamiyude Kada") was one of them. I bought a
'Sumith kitchen machine' for my elderly mother. I remembered how my
aunt bought me my first wrist watch from the same store in 1954 . The
attendant remembered me buying a radio cassette player from him during
my previous trip. He had trusted me to send the payment that afternoon
by special delivery through' Pachan' a helper we relied on a lot.
No, I did not go to bestotel. But I checked out a beer parlor run by the
Kerala Government tourism department as my driver was busy doing the
shopping and collecting for me. I also checked out the Kumarakam Taj
resort (Kari Sayippu's old home) and had nice meal with fried Karimeen.
Later we went for a ride in to Vembanattu Kayal in the hotel's boat.
I kept thinking that the face of Kottayam has changed. A thousand
memories flashed through my mind as I stood near Seemati to buy some
'lunkees'. I remembered how we boycotted our classes one day and
marched down M.C.Road towards the transport bus stand. We were
shouting "CHALLO CHALLO GOA CHALLO" and forcing all the shops to
close. This was during the brief confrontation India had with Portugal
over the fate of Goa. I remembered the great reception for the newly
ordained bishops of Syrian Jacobite bishops and the ceremonial
procession along KK road that we watched from my uncle's second story
office veranda. My mother's uncle and my fathers uncle were amongst the
bishops in the ceremonial procession. below. I remembered the
Billigraham crusade at CMS College grounds. I remembered C.K.Thomas
hall, The Great Hall and Grammer school at C.M.S.college. I remembered
Askwith hostel .I remembered the old Kottayam park before they built a
hall there.
Oh, how I long to be in one of the overloaded buses driven by Philipu
Chettan carrying not only passengers ,but 'vazakkulas ' , bundles of
rubber sheets , 'kachils' , 'chenas' and live chicken on the roof for
the Thirunakkara market . I want to step down from the bus one more time
at the corner of MC Road and KK Road and walk towards CMS College
worrying about the chemistry final examination. I will pass by
'Vidyarthi mithram' and other book stores including Pappichettan's
farther down (Pappichettan was a neighbor of my mother and from Aymanam
) and the great wall Kottayam beyond which were the gates to
C.M.S.College.
Finally , I will be less than honest if I don't admit my longing to
stand one more time in front of the 'Kerala Bhooshanam' news paper to
know the results of the intermediate examination -my finest hour of
academic achievement in Kottayam .
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Harry S. Anchan
On Mon, 1 Dec 1997, Dr. P.K. John wrote:
*>*KOTTAYAM OH KOTTAYAM
*>
*>Cars were infrequently seen on the roads. bullock carts and bicycles
*>were plentiful . The only public meeting place was a wood-floor hall at
Sounds like Valakuzhy and Thelliyoor, where I spent part of my life. And
WHAT a life! No noisy trafic, no pollution, the only things busy around
there were the bees, as they droned from flower to flower. The sound of
distant buses disturbed the pastoral settings for a brief period,
thereafter reverting to the sounds of the "cheeveed", etc. I spent
my sleepy summer holidays in the shade of trees, walking to the "kavala",
shooting the breeze with the guys who gathered there in the afternoons
and evenings, spending the afternoon at the "thoad" catching tiny fishes
in my "thOrth" (towel), visiting neighbours. Sometimes, I used to
accompany Iype Chettan to the "chantha" in Thelliyoor. How, oh how I
miss those happier, innocent, simpler days:-(( All the material
trappings, disposable income, and electronic gadgetry fail to make me as
happy as I was then.
*>private bus stand close by. I remember the open body ' carbon gas' ?
*>(kari gas) powered buses which had such boards as KOTTAYAM- MALLAPPALI ,
*>KOTTAYAM- RANNI and so on. I even remember some of the drivers
*>-Pillaachan, Philip chettan and so on.
Thanks you, thank you, thank you for one of the most evocative articles I
have ever read on the Net. Thanks for the wonderful memories. I did not
live in Kottayam, but I share those wonderful, bittersweet memories with
you. I am sure everyone who lived in kerala, regardless of where, would
certainly have similar memories.
Yes, I remember Nelson Motors' buses that ply the Ranni-Tiruvalla route,
and I was glad to see on our 6-month trip last year, that they still do!
*>My years at Kottayam bring back memories of 'Rossariose' bakery where
*>my uncle treated me to my first 'biriyani' ever. Later 'Best Bakery'
*>came. I think that the building was previously 'Ceter theater' owned
*>by 'Maliekkal Cheriichayan' a relative of mine. Best hotel or bestotal
*>as they call themselves served excellent tea. They also had half decent
*>wash rooms. My uncle frequented these two early hangouts till 'Swagath'
*>came along. Today Rossariose and Swagath are no longer in existence.
Funny you should mention Rossariose Bakery because I remember my
grandfather and uncles bringing all sorts of treats for me from the
Rossariose Bakery at Kumbanad, the place of my birth. I can still taste
them, and will for the rest of my life.
*>Benchamin Bailey who established a printing press is credited with the
Are you sure it is not Benjamin Bailey?
*>But Kottayam has changed and I am not even sure whether I like it as
*>much as the Kottayam in my heart.
My sentiments, likewise, up to a cartain point. I stayed at Kottayam with
my wife's relatives last year, and though it is not the Kottayam of the
past, it still is no pushover. I was far more excited than visiting
London, Chicago, Houston, Miami or Los Angeles.
*>I kept thinking that the face of Kottayam has changed. A thousand
*>memories flashed through my mind as I stood near Seemati to buy some
*>'lunkees'. I remembered how we boycotted our classes one day and
Yes, the same kind of memories flashed by me last year as I stood at S.C.
Kavala, Tiruvalla and the Vennikulam kavala. It was sad for me because my
grandparents and many of the old folks that I knew there have since passed
on. This time, I had my trusty camcorder to record the images and ease
the pain to some extent, but far too little, far too late. In those days,
there were no such gadgetry.
*>over the fate of Goa. I remembered the great reception for the newly
*>ordained bishops of Syrian Jacobite bishops and the ceremonial
*>procession along KK road that we watched from my uncle's second story
*>office veranda. My mother's uncle and my fathers uncle were amongst the
*>bishops in the ceremonial procession. below. I remembered the
*>Billigraham crusade at CMS College grounds. I remembered C.K.Thomas
*>hall, The Great Hall and Grammer school at C.M.S.college. I remembered
*>Askwith hostel .I remembered the old Kottayam park before they built a
*>hall there.
You sound more like me every minute...
*>
*>Oh, how I long to be in one of the overloaded buses driven by Philipu
*>Chettan carrying not only passengers ,but 'vazakkulas ' , bundles of
*>rubber sheets , 'kachils' , 'chenas' and live chicken on the roof for
*>the Thirunakkara market . I want to step down from the bus one more time
*>at the corner of MC Road and KK Road and walk towards CMS College
*>worrying about the chemistry final examination. I will pass by
*>'Vidyarthi mithram' and other book stores including Pappichettan's
*>farther down (Pappichettan was a neighbor of my mother and from Aymanam
*>) and the great wall Kottayam beyond which were the gates to
*>C.M.S.College.
*>
Yes, what I would not give just to step into a time machine...
*>Finally , I will be less than honest if I don't admit my longing to
*>stand one more time in front of the 'Kerala Bhooshanam' news paper to
*>know the results of the intermediate examination -my finest hour of
*>academic achievement in Kottayam .
Thank you, my friend. Thank you. Here I sit now and read your enormously
moving article again and again, pausing periodically to relish those
fabulous memories. Thank you.
-- Harry
**=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=**
http://www.angelfire.com/az/musicollector
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nospam
On Mon, 1 Dec 1997 23:14:57 -0700, "Harry S. Anchan"
-cut
>Funny you should mention Rossariose Bakery because I remember my
>grandfather and uncles bringing all sorts of treats for me from the
>Rossariose Bakery at Kumbanad, the place of my birth. I can still taste
>them, and will for the rest of my life.
>
Those bakeries in Kerala are just great, even the tiny one in my
village, Manimala.
I remembered the front of the bakery displayed those glass jars filled
with biscuits stacked neatly. They were sold by the kilo and after
weighing them, the biscuits were wrapped neatly in brown paper and
tied with string.
The bakery's lamb puffs were just outstanding, flaky crust with a
spicy meat filling.
The white bread was so tasty, it went so well with chicken curry.
The oven was heated by burning coconut shells, perhaps that was what
gave everything such a fantastic flavor.