TR: Home Again
x15x15
that the other ranges have anything particularly wrong with them, it is just
that..................(if I have to explain it, you won't get it, but if you
got it, no need to explain it). I am tossing my fly into Baker Lake just
east of the Sierra Crest. Baker Lake is around 10,000ft and is a hour 4wd
and 20 minute hike away. One is fairly guaranteed of a lonely experience.
Anyway, tossing my fly into the lake is my method of acclimating. Fishing,
eating, sleeeping and drinking arrogant bastard ales for a couple of days
will get me ready for anything, even climbing.
Fast Forward a couple days and I am cursing up a storm. Whose idea was it
to go up the S. Fork of Big Pine for the approach to Sill, it's a tough one
in this very early June heat. The snow wouldn't even support a supermodel,
let alone some fat drunken slob climber who is sinking up to his hips with
every step he takes once he passes Willow lake. When is this shit gonna
end. I knew I should have gone lighter. But I really do need my sleeping
bag! Finally we arrive on the ridge overlooking Elinore Lake with just one
tiny snowless spot to bivy on. Now I remember, it was my idea to come up
the S. Fork of Big Pine. A rather isolated area with phenomenal views of
Middle Palisade, Norman Clyde to Mt. Sill and everything else in between.
Next day dawns and we find ourselves struggling through the slosh to Sill.
The snow conditions are horrid. Of course the temperatures are abnormally
horrid too. Can we say scorching? And this is at 6am. And to think we
wanted to start sorta early to beat the bad snow conditions. If you're not
sinking up to your waist, you're falling through holes hoping not to get
completely lost under this shit. We finally beat the odds and arrive at the
base of the Swiss Arete. It is 10:30. 4 1/2 hours of swimming through
mush. That was not fun. But once I am flying up the Swiss Arete,
unencumbered by anything, it is all ok. I scramble to the Arete rather
*low* to get off of the crappy snow. Soon I find myself with my hands on a
sharp ridge, my feet smearing the rock and the Palisade glacier directly
below. Peering over the other side shows me it is straight shot down to the
Sill glacier. Better not slip. The granite is nothing short of what I have
come to expect for the cleaner peaks of the High Sierra. Good clean solid
rock. The route itself is very straight forward. The crux sections are
fabulously entertaining, providing good excitement with no feelings of
anxiety. Images of Doug Robinson narrating Moving Over Stone come into my
head. Ahhh, it feels good to be home again.
In no time at all, we are all on top. All arriving by just slightly
different ways. And ALL having a good time. Getting down is a climb in
itself, although not hard. The class 4 downclimb is full of crappy snow so
we just rap down and soon are at the top of the L shaped couloir and crappy
snow back to camp. And indeed, it is a crappy march back.
Fast forward a couple more days and I am in *La La* land. Camping at Dade
lake below Bear Creek Spire is a treat. Our big dilemma for this climb was
whether to do it in a day. I am glad I was convinced to camp. My wife is
quite impressed with this place and she will not stop moving around
exploring. Although there is still tons of snow, it is a lot better for
walking. The lake is still frozen and it feels like winter. Looking to the
sky I wonder about the clouds. They seem to be quite dark and thick. I
feel apprehensive now. Will it storm tomorrow while I am on the N. Arete of
BearCreek? Because of this uncalled for apprehension, my sleep is not good.
Ahhh, it feels good to be home again.
The next day we head out later than I had hoped to. As we make the final
approach to the spire we try not to notice the clouds. At the base we
pretend everything is cool. Finally, the snow starts to fall and my wife
and I look at eachother and bust out laughing. "What do you want to do?"
my wife says. We end up waiting around for an hour and the snow comes and
goes and comes back harder. Eventually we figure it out and remember we
came for a summer rock climb and are not really prepared for a snowy ascent
of the N. Arete. We hike back to our bivy and everything is covered in
snow. We pack up and just hang out. It was not too long ago that we were
sitting by our pool in Hemet sweltering in the summer So. Cal. heat.
After a while we hike out and cruise to Mammoth, find a room, take a shower
and go out to eat at a fancy expensive restaurant. Ahhh, life is great!! I
convince my wife to hang in Mammoth for a couple of days of cragging and
bouldering. I just love it here. Crack climbing at the Stumps is superb.
As is the bouldering at Deadmans and the Bachar Boulders. I love that
*welded tuff* stuff! As long as I don't have to clip bolts! Eventually, my
wife and I feel like doing something else. "What shall it be" she asks.
How about Mt. Humphreys, East Arete?
We drive up to the trailhead and with our 4wd we can make it all the way.
Our plan is to wake up early and head up the sandy slopes of Peak 12,241 and
eventually contour around to the saddle between this peak and Humphreys.
And everything is going exactly as planned. The slopes are quite sandy.
Matter of fact, I could do without this sandy slope. We finally arrive at
the saddle and looking up at the arete my wife comments that this does not
*look* fun. I tell her that she is spoiled and that this is how a mountain
is suppose to look. It IS suppose to look blocky and loose. It IS suppose
to be dirty. Once she gets on the arete however, her enthusiasm is
inspiring. Up, up and away she climbs. Moving over the *loose* blocks like
she an agile gymnast, oh yeah she is an agile gymnist. Overall, Humphreys
is a good long climb. But with easy climbing it fades rapidly and before
you know it, the summit crux is over and you find yourself moving cautiously
over some very loose blocky stuff on the way back down. Ahhh, soooo gooood
to be home!!!!
Hey Honey!!! Where are we going on Monday. How about Mathes Crest? Okie
Dokie, sounds good to me.
And who says teaching is a shitty job? Or burger flipping for that matter.
x15x15
Jason Lucero
<mtme...@fastmail.fm> wrote:
Nice, thanks.
-Jason
--
"There is no spoon"
Michael A. Riches
mtme...@fastmail.fm wrote on 6/26/02 4:40 PM:
>
> And who says teaching is a shitty job? Or burger flipping for that matter.
>
> x15x15
Thanks, dhuuuude, great TR...if I had more ambition I'd do something to
write about....sigh.....maybe next year, snicker.
Ratzzz...
myles
year when work takes me to the West Coast, but had to cancel for July
because of family problems. Had the permits and partners lined up, but
it just won't happen this year.
My old partner just moved to California from the East Coast. God, I
hate him. On the other hand, having a bud out there will make future
plans a lot easier.
Nice TR, and enjoy the rest of your summer.
Myles
Dingus Milktoast
"x15x15" <mtme...@fastmail.fm> wrote
> Ahhh, it feels good to be home again. The High Sierra is it for me.
Nice TR. Welcome home.
Burl and I decided to descend the S. Fork of Big Pine on our one day attempt
at Sill. Damn was that a long afternoon (evening....). A very long day to
get a raging bloody nose at 12K.
Hemet huh? I passed through there a couple months back, heading out to the
Santa Rosas. I'll give you a shout next time, if you'll have me.
DMT
x15x15
> Hemet huh? I passed through there a couple months back, heading out to the
> Santa Rosas. I'll give you a shout next time, if you'll have me.
let me know,
and don't forget yer shoes and chalkbag.
x15x15