My 3021 is approximately eighteen years old, has constant heavy use and still
performs. It is an excellent tripod. I use it with an RB and a light monorail
4x5. It is well worth its price.
I have a Cambo ball head on it. Ball heads are great as you can position the
head any way you wish easily. If you are going to shoot a lot of sports from a
tripod and need a panning head the Bogen 3047 head is great. The pan handles are
short so you don't have a handle poking you in the stomach all the time. It also
has built in levels which are very useful for shooting architecture.
Frank Rome, NY
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"Ken" <kewa...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:bh0pub$ga5$1...@slb6.atl.mindspring.net...
>My photography instrctor is recommending a Bogen 3021 with a ball and socket
>head to use for my 35mm SLR. Any opinions?
The 3021 is a damn fine tripod...I've been using one for 15 years. I
was actually looking at the ball socket head at Wolf Camera a couple
days ago. I'd never really considered one until I got the hands on,
but I think it's a great head. I have an old 3-way pan head on mine,
and the handles are always getting in the way (would probably be great
for use with a video camera or a larger format camera, but not 35mm).
I'd agree with your instructor, or else get the 3-way pan head that
has knobs instead of handles. They call it the 3D Junior Head, model
3025. I've checked around and this one sells for about 30-40 dollars
at most places I've looked...this is of course in addition to the cost
of the tripod. I haven't priced the 3021 tripod lately, and I don't
remember what I paid back 15 years ago, but I'm sure it was around 150
dollars or more with the tripod and head combination that I have.
there is also a head model 3437 (3D Magnesium Head) that I looked at a
couple days ago, which is really nice, has a "bubble" level on it
(like you see on a "carpenters level"), and has the quick release
system, where you can mount a plate to the bottom of your camera and
then you can remove your camera from the tripod with the flip of a
lever rather than having to unscrew the camera from the tripod head.
You can go to www.bogenphoto.com and check out all their optional
tripods and heads. The tripods/heads will be under the "Manfrotto"
icon.
"Tony Spadaro" <tspa...@ncmaps.rr.com> wrote in message
news:87SYa.1017$UR1.1...@twister.southeast.rr.com...
> My photography instrctor is recommending a Bogen 3021 with a ball and socket
> head to use for my 35mm SLR. Any opinions?
>
>
Get the 3021 BPro version. It does a bit more than the plain 3021.
Ball heads vary in price, and ability, all over the place. But they are
the way to go.
Bob
What exactly does the BPro do the plain one won't?
> Ken wrote:
>
>> My photography instrctor is recommending a Bogen 3021 with a ball and socket
>> head to use for my 35mm SLR. Any opinions?
>>
>>
> Get the 3021 BPro version. It does a bit more than the plain 3021.
I just got my first tripod. Bogen 3021 BPro (USD147 at B&H; saw
a new one for ~$100 on eBay) is light to carry for some short
distances; i haven't the privilege to haul it long yet.
So far i love it, except that the "center column removal-its storage
while not in use-unscrewing/screwing the macro adapter" part is too
fussy for shots close to the ground.
I am thinking of using the tripod w/o the center column, just using
the macro adapter (semi-permanently) to attach a head. That, or
until i could find/devise a 3-4" center column.
> Ball heads vary in price, and ability, all over the place. But
> they are the way to go.
Velbon 263 ballhead ($55 on ebay) & Bogen 3028 Super 3-D (pan/tilt)
head ($28 from B&H) i got along w/ the tripod.
I also bought Bogen 681N monopod (3018 in black; ~$47 from B&H),
Bogen 3232 swivel head ($14, B&H), and two Velbon QRA-635 quick
release adapters ($15 each from ebay; plates included).
I found that i liked the Velbon 263 ballhead much better on the
monopod than the supposedly purpose built 3232 head. As soon as
i attached camera to the 3232, i wanted to tilt it. Well, 3232 tilt
does not.
Velbon 263 was quite easy, smooth, & stable to use w/ Minolta XTsi
& Minolta 70-210mm f/4, i found today after taking 12-14 pictures.
Velbon QRA-635 disappointed when the above camera-lens combination,
in vertical position, starts to unscrew from the camera mounting
plate. The anti-twist lip (on the rubber sheet) is no good as it
does not clear the bottom plane of the camera; on the back side (of
the camera), it is useless.
For the time being i will take vertical shots w/ 70-210mm f/4 lens
hand held, or use a lighter lens on a pod in vertical position ...
until i get a camera-rotator bracket.
As things stand currently, i have put the 3028 head on the tripod to
assess its usability, ballhead is sweet on the monopod, and 3232
sits out of the way.
- parv
--
In order to reach me, do away w/ WhereElse in the address.
A programmer, budding Unix system administrator, and amateur photographer
seeks employment: http://www103.pair.com/parv/work/
Well, the B means that it is black.
The centerpost can be moved to the top of the tripod in a horizontal plane.
___________camera
/\
/ |\
/ | \
/ | \
And I am not sure about the 3021 plain, but the legs on the 3012 BPro
can extend at different angles for difficult setup.
As I remember, the cost difference isn't very great.
Bob
But, then, I am the one wondering what tripod to get in the first place, so
maybe I am not thinking correctly.
"Bob Sull" <w8...@arrl.net> wrote in message
news:3f350...@athena.netset.com...
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http://www.chapelhillnoir.com
home of The Camera-ist's Manifesto
The Improved Links Pages are at
http://www.chapelhillnoir.com/links/mlinks00.html
New email - Contact on the Menyou page.
"Ken" <kewa...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:bh18o6$7vv$1...@slb5.atl.mindspring.net...
> Velbon 263 ballhead ($55 on ebay) & Bogen 3028 Super 3-D
> (pan/tilt) head ($28 from B&H) i got along w/ the tripod.
Minolta 70-210mm f/4 (24.5 oz), w/ Minolta XTsi, mounted on either
of the heads tend to bow downward. So, to get to the desired area
in focus, i would have to tighten the head two lengths of spot focus
area above.
No such problem was caused by use of lighter lenses: Tokina 28-105mm
f.3.5-4.5 (14.8 oz), or Minolta 24-50mm f/4 (10.1 oz).
parv wrote:
>
> Velbon QRA-635 disappointed when the above camera-lens combination,
> in vertical position, starts to unscrew from the camera mounting
> plate. The anti-twist lip (on the rubber sheet) is no good as it
> does not clear the bottom plane of the camera; on the back side (of
> the camera), it is useless.
>
This is interesting. Does your lens not have a tripod collar?
Also, it sounds like you're saying that the body is so thick (or the
tripod socket positioned such) that the anti twist lip can't be located
beyond the back of the body? If so, that would be curious and
interesting to know.
Lisa
A tripod that does that can be used as a copy stand. If you are doing table top
set-ups you can put your camera over the table close to the subject without the
tripod legs banging into the table. It is a very nice feature. I wish mine had
that. Would have saved the cost of a studio stand.
Frank Rome, NY
>
> parv wrote:
>>
>> Velbon QRA-635 disappointed when the above camera-lens combination,
>> in vertical position, starts to unscrew from the camera mounting
>> plate. The anti-twist lip (on the rubber sheet) is no good as it
>> does not clear the bottom plane of the camera; on the back side (of
>> the camera), it is useless.
>
> This is interesting. Does your lens not have a tripod collar?
No Ma'am. The f/4 lens, about half the mass of Sigma 70-200 (is it
210mm?) f/2.8 APO (48 oz.) lens, does not have the collar.
> Also, it sounds like you're saying that the body is so thick (or
> the tripod socket positioned such) that the anti twist lip can't
> be located beyond the back of the body?
Correcto mundo.
The tripod socket is close to the the back of the body, which has
width (bottom, measured through the center of the socket) of 4.8 cm.
The width of the mounting plate (from inside of the anti-twist lip)
is 4.1 cm.
Even if the whole lip were a bit over 4.8 cm, it would hit the
mounted lens, as a lens is almost flush w/ the bottom.
That could be work workaround, I suppose, by cutting a curve through
the lip, leaving some parts on right & left ... but that would
weaken the strength of the /rubber/ anti-twist lip.
OK, that center post being able to be set up "sideways" is apparently
the only major difference. The 3021 can practically be set down on
the ground. You have to remove the bottom half of the center post to
do it, but it's adjustable to several different angles. And of course
that center column (post) can be raised or lowered, so you can easily
raise the camera way above an average person's head level. I've used
my 3021 in many many strange positions, sometimes having one or more
legs less extended, and in different "angle" positions to the
other...such as when setting the tripod up on irregular terrain. I
could certainly see a use for the "sideways" mount as I call it, but
you'd have to make sure the camera wasn't too heavy or it could tip
the tripod.
>Ken,
>A tripod that does that can be used as a copy stand. If you are doing table top
>set-ups you can put your camera over the table close to the subject without the
>tripod legs banging into the table. It is a very nice feature. I wish mine had
>that. Would have saved the cost of a studio stand.
> Frank Rome, NY
Of course, if you're planning on doing a lot of copy work, then my
thinking would be it'd be best to just buy a copy stand.
parv wrote:
>
> in message <3F3564B6...@lisahorton.net>,
> wrote Lisa Horton ...
>
> >
> > parv wrote:
> > Also, it sounds like you're saying that the body is so thick (or
> > the tripod socket positioned such) that the anti twist lip can't
> > be located beyond the back of the body?
>
> Correcto mundo.
>
> The tripod socket is close to the the back of the body, which has
> width (bottom, measured through the center of the socket) of 4.8 cm.
> The width of the mounting plate (from inside of the anti-twist lip)
> is 4.1 cm.
>
> Even if the whole lip were a bit over 4.8 cm, it would hit the
> mounted lens, as a lens is almost flush w/ the bottom.
>
> That could be work workaround, I suppose, by cutting a curve through
> the lip, leaving some parts on right & left ... but that would
> weaken the strength of the /rubber/ anti-twist lip.
Have you tried putting the lip at the rear of the camera? I believe
that is the intended configuration, and may work for your combination.
Thanks for filling me in.
in message <3F368B11...@lisahorton.net>,
wrote Lisa Horton ...
> Have you tried putting the lip at the rear of the camera?
> I believe that is the intended configuration, and may work for
> your combination.
Really? I would have never thought of that!
I do put the lip on the back, out of losing hope, which still does
not stop the unscrewing (of the 24.5 oz lens in vertical position).
There is some gap in between the lip & the lower rear of the camera
body. If there were no manual/mid-roll rewind button or the eye-start
button put in the recessed bottom, the lip quite might well be in
touch w/ the body.
The plate cannot be pushed toward the front (to bring the lip to touch
the camera) as the mounting screw is already at the farthest possible
position.
Now the problem is the lip sits too far away due to the screw
position. Dang!
Why are you using a tripod? 35mm should be hand held as much as
possible. that's what 35mm is for! Get it off the damned tripod!
Besides, tripod sales seem to be big business, there must be a reason for
it.
"Michael Scarpitti" <mikesc...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:2fd2ff8c.03081...@posting.google.com...
On Mon, 11 Aug 2003 22:10:43 -0400, "Ken" <kewa...@hotmail.com>
wrote: