Textiles FAQ Part 2 of 2
lfa...@adobe.com
Archive-name: crafts/textiles/faq/part2
Last-modified: 23 Oct 1997
Part 2 of 2 of the Textiles FAQ
(c) All the material in these faqs are copyrighted by the owner
of the FAQs (which may change). Free use is encouraged. These
FAQs are not to be reused for profit. This copyright must be
kept with the FAQ used in it's entirety.
Questions addressed:
5) What are the best periodicals and sources for Heirloom Sewing (also known
as French Hand Sewing) projects?
6) Where can I get natural fabrics by mail order?
7) I've just been given my Great Grandmother's sewing machine.
Can anyone help me fix it or restore it?
8) Where can I hook up with people to exchange quilt blocks?
9) How do I hem jeans?
10) What are available for children's sewing? (ie patterns, fabric, etc)
11) What are the various patterns available? (paper, computer, services, other)
12) What are the best scissors? What are the rotary cutters? What
are the electric cutters?
13) What are Dress Forms and how do I get them?
14) Where can I get an up to date copy of this FAQ?
5) What are the best periodicals and sources for Heirloom Sewing (also known
as French Hand Sewing) projects?
Heirloom sewing beganas an attempt to recreate some antique clothing, usually
the white dresses with lace inserts all over the place. There are many new
patterns available. You use fine, lightweight fabrics like cotton voile or
batiste, silk, or the "baby" wale corduroy. You add ruffles made from fine
imported French laces, and maybe a touch of delicate hand embroidery. Bullion
knot roses and shadow embroidery are very popular. About half the patterns
have smocking on them, usually on the yoke of a dress.
It helps to have a good sewing machine, that can handle delicate fabrics and
do some fancy stitching. Originally heirloom sewing was all done by hand (e.g.
French Hand Sewing) but there are several books out now on how to do it by
machine. Using a machine is a slow process, but it is faster than doing the
work by hand.
Periodicals Recommended:
Sew Beautiful
Subscription Dept. 518
Madison St.
Huntsville, AL 35801-4286
(205)-533-9586
Creative Sewing
Box 99
Lookout Mountain, TN 37350
1-800-443-3127
Both of these publications cover heirloom sewing, and also include other types
of sewing techniques. Lots of how-to articles and inspirational photos. Both
also include one or more free patterns bound into each issue. The Singer
Reference Library book _Decorative Machine Sewing_ includes a section on
Heirloom Sewing.
Mail Order Sources for Fabrics, Laces and Supplies:
The Unique Needle
539 Blossom Way
Hayward, CA 94541
415-727-9130
Rumor has it she has a mailing list.
Sweet Child of Mine or Sweet Child of Mine
139 East Fremont Avenue 3720 Miramesa Ct. Bldg 116
Sunnyvale, CA 94087 Santa Clara, CA 95051
408-720-8426
Hours: Mon, Tues, Wed from 11-4:30; Sat. 12:30-3:30 pm
Home-Sew
P.O. Box 4099
Bethlehem, PA 18018-0099
carries some inexpensive entredeux and embroideries. Might be good for
practice for someone who is just embarking on heirloom sewing.
Nancy's Notions (address above) sells entredeux.
Carolea's is a well known place in Sunnyvale, California, but the laces
and entredeux there can be a bit more expensive than mail order
sources.
For patterns for clothing for the American Dolls from the Pleasant Company:
Fancywork and Fashion
4728 Dodge Street
Duluth, MN 55804
(218) 525-2442
$2 for catalog
A nice nightgown pattern called "Julie's Gown" is available from:
Susan Oliver
A Work of Heart Studio
P.O. Box 1477
Nevada City, CA 95959
(916) 265-4433
Also check some of the speciality pattern companies such as Campbells (see the
FAQ on historical costuming).
6) Where can I get natural fabrics by mail order?
Sewing Sampler Productions
PO Box 39
Springfield, MN 56087
(800) 772-5011 or (507) 723-5011
Retail and mail order. $3.50 UPS shipping charge (USA) per order.
Regular line of Cotton Club interlock and French Terry (100% Cotton) with
matching ribbing. Excellent quality; seems to equal Hanna quality. Interlock
and French Terry are $9 yd (1992); supplex is 5.50/yd. They carry Oshkosh and
Healthtex fabrics as well as notions like snaps, collars and woven patches.
Three catalogs (basics, fashion fabrics, kids). Two swatching services for $10
each. Several newsletters also. Please mention me (Grace Sylvan, Lewiston
Drive, San Jose, CA) if you decide to subscribe to the swatching service (and
I get a small credit, thanks to you, and you get wonderful swatches delivered
to your door).
Sew Natural Fabrics by Mail
521 N. Essex Drive
Lexington Park, MD 20653-1652
(800) 368-0126
(310) 863-5952
They provide regular mailings of catelogs. To subscribe, send $2.
NOTE: I just got off the phone with Pam (the owner) who will be sending
yours truly (the faq-keeper) a sample catelog! I'll update this when I
receive it.
Cotton Express
P.O. Box 221
Apex, NC 27502
(919) 387-1650
I have ordered from Cotton Express a couple of times. Their fabrics
are nearly exclusively 100% cotton (*always prewash* -- I do it 2 or 3
times), and after I sent for samples and then made one purchase they
continue to send me samples on a regular basis. They have interlocks,
lingerie jerseys, polo jerseys, cotton mesh, French terry ($6.50/yd
last mailing), fleece (100% cotton!), corduroy. Ribbings are of
cotton/lycra and cotton/poly. If you see something you like, order it
right away -- their stocks are not huge.
The Sewing Room
320 Harmon Drive
Lubbock, TX 79416
1-800-275-3822
I recently sent for their swatch set. They have OshKosh and Healthtex
fabrics, and they suggest coordinating fabrics and ribbings available
from them. Interlocks (50/50) are 7.25/yard, OshKosh print corduroy
is $7.95/yard. 100% cotton interlock is $7.25/yard. These are
examples from the swatch set I just received. They have sale items in the
back, about 15% off.
7) I've just been given my Great Grandmother's sewing machine. Can anyone
help me fix it or restore it?
> Gosh, the machine I have must be about 60 years old. It's a
> treadle machine that has been motorized. I do not know if I
> want to remove the motor or not. Also, the veneer on the
> cabinet is in pretty bad shape. I'm going to have it replaced.
> Do you have any suggestions?
Well, first of all, anything you do to the machine lessens its
value as an antique (so I was told) so the first thing to do is
to decide whether you want the antique value of the machine or
just a really nice, spiffy looking treadle.
In my case I wanted a really nice, spiffy looking treadle that
could double as my everyday sewing cabinet and also be a nice
showpiece. I don't care about the supposed antique value. My
Grandmother had abused her treadle and it had been stored for 40
years in my Dad's workshop so you can imagine what it looked
like! Gouged, paint-splattered cabinet, dust everywhere, rusted
grill work and the head was covered in black grime.
The first thing I did was take lots of photos of it from all
angles so I would know how to put it back together after taking
it apart. Next I took it apart. Then I used very mild paint
stripper (3M special gel-type) to remove the varnish from the
cabinet pieces and the paint from the iron grill work.
I should state right now that you should TEST ALL CHEMICAL YOU
PLAN TO USE ON THE MACHINE IN AN INCONSPICUOUS PLACE FIRST!! The
paints and varnishes of yesteryear are quite different from those
that exist today. Often today's stuff is far too strong for
those old finishes to handle.
After removing all the paint, I washed the whole thing off with a
water-dishsoap mixture and rinsed it all thoroughly. Then I
dried everything and let the grill work ``age'' for a few days
(lets the iron ``set'' properly). Then I spray painted the iron
work with a rust protector followed by a black acrylic gloss. I
then sanded the cabinet and ``varnished'' it with a cherry wood
urethane.
I should mention that most veneers in those days were cherry wood
veneers, whereas most today are of oak. Cherry wood is very
expensive these days so you might have problems replacing the
veneer. I filled in small holes with wood filler and large ones
with a combination of glue, wood chips and wood pieces and sanded
carefully.
Now for the machine head: I should put in here that whatever you
do, DON'T clean the machine head with alcohol!!!! The old paints
and varnishes that were used at that time are very sensitive to
alcohols and such. DON'T USE THEM TO CLEAN YOUR MACHINE!!!
I used wd-40 to work through the top layers of grime. Boy was I
surprised to find gorgeous gold decals of phoenix's rising from
the ashes and such. I VERY GENTLY scrubbed away the rest of the
grime using water and dishwashing soap. I let the whole thing
dry for two days and then covered the head (brushed on) with
several coats of future floor polish. Then I oiled the heck out
of the insides using sewing machine oil.
Voila! A mear 4 months later (and I thought it was going to be a
weekend project! :-) it looks gorgeous! Of course the antique
lovers are horrified but I'm very, very happy with the project.
Now, if you want to keep the antique value of your machine you
are going to have to take a different tact: immediately go to
the library and get as many books as you can on restoring
antiques. Talk to antique dealers. Etc. This is what I did at
first and is what helped me decide that keeping the antique
``value'' was too much work and bother. It can be very rewarding
for the right person and the right project, but it just wasn't
for me.
Singer Service Centers actually still do repair and restore
antique machines -- the _real_ service centers (the ones run by
Singer, not the ones running in back of a sewing store) have to
service and repair all machines made by Singer, not just the
current batch.
As for whether or not to remove the motor: most early treadles
were indeed ``motorized'' aftermarket. That's how the first
machines were ``upgraded'' so the owners didn't have to go out
and buy one of the ``new'' motorized ones and junk their old
machine. You'll have to look at the job very carefully as
removing the motor and restoring the machine back to its
treadle state might not be as easy as you think. That's where
pictures and information about the original machine would help.
> Are there any books on this stuff? My treadle doesn't have a
> manual. Is there anything I can do?
Singer Company itself can get you a copy of the original manual
if you know the model number. Not a catch 22 like you think; a
call to your local Singer Service Center and a brief description
of the machine results in a model # in most cases (for example,
the woman in charge asked what kind of bobbin my machine used and
how it loaded (front or side of machine) and from that said ``oh,
you have a #128 vibrating shuttle model.'' The charge for an
owner's manual is generally around $4. Singer can be reached at
1-901-365-6613 to get the number of the offical service center
nearest you. (In Canada call (514) 359-2000.)
You can also look in the library for books about old sewing
machines. There's a book available through the Santa Clara
County Library (Cupertino branch) called _Machine Sewing_ by the
Singer Sewing Machine Co. and published in 1923 and updated to
contain all Singer machines through 1938. It tells you
everything you'd ever want to know about those machines and their
attachments. Get it on interlibrary loan if you're interested.
(Santa Clara County library system, Cupertino branch, Card
catalogue # 646.21 SINGER)
8) Where can I hook up with people to exchange quilt blocks?
Read rec.crafts.textiles.quilting. They regularly have quilt block exchanges
as well as numerous tips on how to make the perfect blocks.
9) How do I hem jeans?
(thanks to Ingrid Verbree-Barnes)
(1) A good needle is important. Some people even suggested needles
which are made specially for jeans and denim. The size in No. 16.
(2) Flatten the humps with a hammer before you begin to sew.
(3) Prepare the hem differently. The three suggestions given for
this approach were: (i) Trim excess fabric away from the humps,
(ii) sew seam tape (or bias tape) onto the hem edge and fold this
under instead of denim, (iii) cover the raw edge with "Seams Great"
(a tricot nylon cut into thin strips) and complete the hem.
(4) Get a tool which raises the presser foot to the height of the hump
created by the seam. Some suggested tools were: (i) a jean-a-ma-jig,
(ii) a jumper humper, (iii) a freebie from Nancy Zeiman of Oxmoor House
called a plastic point turner, (iv) cardboard, wood, plastic or folded
fabric placed under the presser foot.
10) What are available for children's sewing (ie patterns, fabrics, etc)?
Fabric:
Sewbaby!
Box 11693
Champaign, IL 61826
cf...@uxa.ecn.bgu.edu (Noel Brodsky)
- $2 catalog refundable with first order. Buy four, get fifth one free.
Includes apparel, home decor, stuffed toys, nursing garment, and children's
accessories. Now featuring children's fabric! They stock hard to find
stretch terry and K.P. Kids fabric. Check out the homepage at
http://www.sewbaby.com
Dimples
914 Southwind CT
Collinsville IL 62234
(618) 345-3326
email - Dimpl...@aol.com
For $5.00 people can receive their catalog and swatches 4-6 times a year.
They offer Healthex and Osh-Kosh fabrics.
Zoodads - Simply Kidz Fabric
1086 Willett Avenue
East Providence, RI 02915
(401) 437-2470
Sewing Instruction:
Sewing Prose
Carol Hawkey
cdha...@internetmci.com
1-800-729-7182
http://www.geocities.com/EnchantedForest/Dell/3793
11) What are the various patterns available? (paper, computer, services, other)
Paper
-----
Obibirim Fashions by Akweley
Box 44211
Philadelphia, PA 19144
- Offers patterns for traditional African clothing. Designed by Akweley
Ishangi. Reflect West African heritage and culture. Styles for men, women,
and children. For color brochure, send SASE size 10
Vogue Patterns
Altoona, PA 16603
1-800-766-3619
Approx $14 for 6 issues; each issue includes a 2-for-the-price-of-1 pattern
coupon (plus $2 for shipping and handling)
Butterick Patterns
PO Box 569
Altoona, PA 16603
1-800-766-3619
URL appears to be coming soon.
Approx $9 for 4 issues; each issue includes a 2-for-the-price-of-1 pattern
coupon (plus $2 for shipping and handling)
McCalls Patterns
PO Box 3325
Manhattan, KS 66502-9917
1-800-782-0323
http://www.mccall.com
Approx $10 for 4 issues; each issues includes a free pattern coupon ($1.50 for
shipping and handling).
Kwik Sew
1-612 521-7651
New Look
1-616-683-4100
http://www.simplicitypatt.com
Neue Mode Patterns
Sullivans (USA) Inc.
224 William St.
Bensenville, IL 60106.
Orders: 800-862-8586
- A pattern company similar to Burda. Can be hard to find in U.S.
sewing stores. For the name of the retailer nearest you, or a free
mini-catalog if no retailer is near by (1995 entire catalog costs $10),
write to the above address.
Folkwear Patterns
Taunton Press
63 South Main Street
Box 355
Newtown, CT 06470-9959
1-800-888-8286
(203) 426-8171 (front desk: ask for ordering or subscription;
for problems ask for customer service)
FAX: 203-270-9373
- $2 for a Folkwear catalog.
Stretch and Sew
285 Lawrence Street
Eugene, Oregon
Phone: (503) 465-4801
For a free Home Catalog call 800-547-7717, e-mail str...@rio.com
or FAX 503-465-8983
http://www.stretch-and-sew.com/
Simplicity
1-616-683-4100
http://www.simplicitypatt.com
(this URL also has links to New Look and Style)
Computer
--------
First, check out this cool web site: http://www.hk.super.net/~rlowe/sew.html
(thanks, Raymond!)
Symmatry:
Created by Wild Ginger. This is the closest thing to what they use in industry.
It's highly recommended by professional pattern makers. Right now, it's only
available for Windows. However, the owner prefers Macs and runs Symmatry on
his Power Mac.
Wild Ginger Software, Inc.
394 Dover Glen Drive
Antioch, TN 37013
This is right outside Nashville for those of you wanting to know. Also,
the local number given for us is no longer correct...it is now:
(615) 360-7526 voice
(615) 399-2103 fax
However, the toll free number, e-mail and website addresses were
correct:
(888) 929-9453 toll free
in...@wild-ginger.com
www.wild-ginger.com
Fittingly Sew:
>> Here is the official note regarding copyrights from the owner.
From: A. Bartley <72133...@CompuServe.COM>
Bartley Software Inc. has ceased to operate. However, the corporation
has not been dissolved yet. It is still a legal entity and still owns
the copyright on Fittingly Sew (R).
A number of organizations have indicated interest in taking over
Fittingly Sew. When that happens, the new owner will take
ownership of the copyright.
So the answer is -- it is illegal to copy Fittingly Sew.
Dress Shop:
Personal Patterns by WaterFountain Software:
13 E.17 St. 3rd fl
New York NY 10003
phone: 1-800-605-7460
fax: 1-212-929-1025
http://tribeca.ios.com/~wfsinc
wfs...@tribeca.ios.com
Services
--------
Unique Patterns Design Limited
1-800-543-i-sew
http://www.nstn.ca/import/unique/index.html
- I saw their advertisment in a sewnews. I received information
that they are now allowing the seamstresses to measure themselves.
To sign up is about $35US. I received a video and a binder with
a number of patterns in it. I'll count & give more details. They
are the basic patterns (skirts, slacks, tunics, jackets) for women.
The patterns also contain information such as which body shape
it's recommended for. You order a pattern from this catelog. It
gets printed on their 72" plotter and mailed to you. So, in theory,
it's pre-altered for you. I got myself measured and I bought three
patterns. I was impressed with the quality of the paper...it's the
nice, solid stuff. The shirt I made cut out easily and was sewn
together quickly (it was a simple color blocked tank top). I felt
the instructions were to the point and very clear. And it fit!!
More when I make the skirt and pants.
Creating Your Own
------------------
BonFit
1-800-258-0555
- Note: This is what I, the faqkeeper, own & use & I love it.
A plastic generic pattern piece that can be adjusted in just
about every direction. There are four kits that can be ordered
for women's sizes: skirts, pants, shirt, advanced shirt (extra
collars & templates for princess seaming). What you do is figure
out what you want to create (ie a pencil skirt with kick pleat
and patch pockets), measure yourself, add in the ease that you want,
dial in the information onto the BonFit patterner piece, place
it on the cloth, trace, double check the measurements to verify
that it matches your body, make any adjustments, cut the fabric.
It's not recommended for beginning sewers. You need to have a
good idea of how to put together garments as there are no cookbook
directions for garment construction. You can mail Bonf...@aol.com
to get a sample newsletter that she maintains.
SureFit
- I'm not really sure what this is for & would love to have someone
write me up a paragraph description
But here's what I have from cutting & pasting comments:
I too use the Sure Fit Pattern system (and have all 4 sets). I have used
them all and frankly don't know what I would do without them. Making
costumes for many different sized men and women would be impossible for
me to do without this basic tool. I have never found a person that the
pattern didn't cover. I still buy patterns, but I first use the Sure Fit
pattern to make a sloper for that person, then add the bought pattern
details to it. I've gotten very good at cutting and pasting!
On the down side, it has taken some experience to get really good at using
Sure Fit. For one, I have learned to take more measurements than it asks
for, since not all people are shaped and proportioned the same way (for
example, I take an upper arm width measurement to make sure the pattern
has enough ease ever since I got burned once).
The address for Sure-Fit is:
Sure-Fit Designs
P.O. Box 5567
Eugene, Oregon 97405
(503)344-0422
Glenda Sparling is the lady who designed the system and will give you
support as you learn how to use it.
Cut To Fit: How to Make Clothes that Fit
I got the author Karen Howland to write a blurb for me:
From: KKHo...@aol.com
After many frustrating experiences trying to fit commercial patterns to my
clients, I found a much easier way to fit: make the pattern to fit in the
first place. This is easier than it sounds, and is really rather fun.
Patternmaking begins with a sloper, a basic fitting pattern that includes
wearing ease. The sloper represents the needed fit. By designing from this
sloper, the fit is built into the pattern.
Cut to the Fit explains in a step-by-step format how to draft skirt, bodice,
and sleeve slopers. Drafting pants is also covered.
To make the math of patternmaking easier, I also have a 30" metal ruler that
includes a half scale and a quarter scale. No dividing numbers necessary.
Cut to the Fit costs $39.99 plus 4.00 shipping. The ruler is $14.99 plus
$3.00 shipping when ordered separately, but the book and ruler together are
$49.99 plus 6.00 postage. Illinois residents please add sales tax to the
before shipping price. Send check or money order to:
Kensinger Press
1316 W. Pine St
Chillicothe IL 61523
888-683-2032
Alternate # 309-274-4160
Accepts MasterCard or Visa
12) What are the best scissors? What are the rotary cutters? What
are the electric cutters?
Best Scissors
-------------
The best are really what works for you. Some commonly used scissors are
gingher, fiskars, and
Electric Cutters
----------------
Sew-Rite Pro Cut
- Electric rotery cutter that is cordless. Built in blade sharpener.
Tacony corporation. No review available. They claim that they're
available at ClothWorld, Fabric Centers of America, House of Fabrics
and Northwest Fabrics. Price seems to vary. One ad was 99.95. One
ad was $89 postpaid at Maryland Sewing Machine Center; 6280
Branch Ave; Camp Springs, MD 20748 (301-899-7200)
13) What are Dress Forms and how do I get them?
There are three ways to go about getting a dress form. The first way
is to check out your local thrift store, a garage sale, flea market,
or ads in the paper. This is a great way to save money and see if you
like it well enough. A good friend of mine found one that was almost
her body measurements for $25 at a garage sale. She didn't need it to
be exact for this level of her sewing.
Here are some tips on second-hand dress forms: Inspect it carefully,
inside and out. Test the dials/screws and make sure they turn well.
They may have gotten rusty, but as long as they are not completely worn
out, they can be cleaned up and used. Do make sure that it will fit you.
If you are very large or very small, crank out the dials to the maximum
and minimum settings and measure the dress form against your form. If
the fabric covering is ripped and/or stained, just cover the whole thing
with a thin, snug t-shirt once you've set it to your measurments (this
will also cover up the dials or the seams between panels).
I think $30 (and under) is a fair price for a used dress form in good
condition. Anything over $50 is highly suspect, since that is 1/2 the
price of a decent new one and you might as well save up the money if
you're that close. Unique and/or vintage dress forms could cost quite a
bit more, but then, you might not want to use it as a dress form.
(Thanks to Trystan for the tips on this!)
The second way is to make one. There have been articles printed in Threads
on how to use tape to create a basic form. Local shops and local
American Sewing Guilds may offer classes. There is one mail order
kit for creating your own foam dress form. I don't have it with me
at work, but will type it in to this area when I remember.
The final way is to order from a company. There are two types: adjustible
and non-adjustible. The adjustible is usually made of plastic plates
with foam on them that can be moved around via dials. The non-adjustible
is a large foam "body" that gets formed to your figure by means of a
muslin shell that you fit to yourself and then zip onto the form. I've
heard that the adjustible can be flimsy. And I've heard that the non-adjustible
is not very flexible when going through changes (i.e. when gravity starts
to work).
I sent off a request for information from Dress Rite Forms of Chicago. I
was impressed with their brochure, but haven't ordered one yet. Personally,
I would go for a non adjustible and then just add extra pads as needed.
There is a company out there that sells foam pads for those special places.
Update: Yours Truly was given a Uniquely You for Christmas from Santa Husband.
I haven't received it yet, but will update this more with my trials and
tribulations of creating the cover. We stood in line at New York Fabrics
for 90 minutes because they were having 30% off everything for 3 hours
only and the forms were on sale for 99. So we were out the door for $75
(that includes our local sales tax).
I know dress forms exist for men, but haven't really found any information
on them. Also, I haven't found information on pants forms.
Another tip from a helpful reader:
If you buy a dress form, it's usually expensive enough that you
don't want to have to buy another one if you gain 10 pounds (or lose 10
pounds), and very few women are proportioned exactly as the dress forms
are. Using towels, pins and a tape measure, pad the dressform with rolled
towels until it was exactly the right size and evened out. It's a long,
painful process, but it's worth it.
Another tip from a helpful reader:
Stuff bras and then position as needed.
NEW: For those who want to make their own dress form from duct tape, check
out this URL:
http://www2.netcom.com/~leahna/DuctTapeDouble.html
14) Where can I get an up to date copy of this FAQ?
There are three textile related FAQs that I maintain. The first concentrates
on general sewing questions and supply information and restoring antique sewing
machines. The second list concentrates on costuming and historical clothing.
The third posting contains a list of books that cover sewing, fitting and
pattern drafting.
Do check out: http://www.softworld.com/sewing/sewdir.htm
as it has a great number of resources as well as pointers to
other FAQs.
When looking for a FAQ list, first do the obvious and check the relevant
newsgroup for articles with "FAQ" in the subject line. If you don't know how
to check articles marked as read, your sysadmin can tell you. Next, try the
group news.answers since this FAQ is crossposted there. Again, your sysadmin
can tell you the commands to use in searching.
If you cannot find the FAQ on your system, you can retrieve a copy from
Jonathan Kamen's archive of periodic postings. For general instructions on
the server, send email containing the commands "help" and "send index" (no
quotes, separate lines) to
mail-...@rtfm.mit.edu
For a list of all periodic postings that are archives in news.answers, email
the command "send usenet/news.answers/index" to the server.
via anonymous FTP:
Periodic postings including FAQs are archived at "rtfm.mit.edu" in the
directory "/pub/usenet". The textile FAQs are:
/pub/usenet/news.answers/crafts/textiles/faq/part1
/pub/usenet/news.answers/crafts/textiles/faq/part2
/pub/usenet/news.answers/crafts/historical-costuming
/pub/usenet/news.answers/crafts/textiles/books/part1
/pub/usenet/news.answers/crafts/textiles/books/part2
/pub/usenet/news.answers/crafts/textiles/books/part3
via email server:
The address of the server is mail-...@rtfm.mit.edu. To retrieve files,
send email to the server with a blank subject and one or more of these lines
in the body:
send usenet/news.answers/crafts/textiles/faq/part1
send usenet/news.answers/crafts/textiles/faq/part2
send usenet/news.answers/crafts/historical-costuming
send usenet/news.answers/crafts/textiles/books/part1
send usenet/news.answers/crafts/textiles/books/part2
send usenet/news.answers/crafts/textiles/books/part3
via FidoNet:
If you're on FidoNet, you can get the FAQs from Needles_Threads.
Just send a message to the Moderator, and she will see to it you
get a copy.
via WWW:
Check out:
http://www.jcave.com/~dybitter/faqs.html
End of Part 2
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
/\ /\ | lfa...@adobe.com (Lara Fabans)
. . |--------------------------------------------------------------
= = | Adobe Systems Publishing Division
v |
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
- Lara Fabans - Adobe FrameMaker UNIX Platform QA 408-536-6610