TR: Moses
Eric D. Coomer
Been a real long time coming... not sure why. Probably because I hate wall
climbing and I suck at free climbing...
The best climbs seem to be those just on the edge of what is possible for
oneself. Maybe you hang once or twice, or even pull on some gear, but if
it's long and you do most of it well, they are some of the best experiences.
I've given up that whole low and slow wall climbing shit. Baffin pretty
much beat that desire out of me for good (though I haven't sold all my gear
yet). But, the same old problems keep arising; I am just not that good of a
free climber. I sit on the couch too much. Every time it's the same, "I'm
going to be in shape this year."
Never happens though.
My partner Mike and I hit some early season ice and it looked like this year
might be different. Then we got schooled a few times on some test-piece
mixed routes and I said fuck it. I'd rather work that do this shit anymore.
But, it's prime desert season and we've already been snowed out of a couple
Indian Creek trips. I'm as out of shape as ever.
"Let's do Moses."
"We'll probably die."
"Yeah, we probably will... okay"
We headed down to Moab. Neither of us had any sleep that week so Friday we
didn't even get up till 11:30 in the morning!!! Talk about crack of noon...
It was looking like rain as well.. We happily lazed around and then decided
me might as well walk up to Jah Man. Ugh, my lungs were about to burst
finally atop the cone. A quick four pitches later and we were on top of one
of the better desert towers all alone. We contemplated licking the shit
stain on top (thanks for the warning Frank) but we didn't. We got back to
the truck with plenty of time to drive into Moses before dark (even stopping
for groceries).
Shit, nowhere to really camp down here outside of the national park and we
don't have a backcountry permit. Well, we ARE in the middle of the desert
on a Friday. Probably won't be seeing a ranger. I cook up some killer Thai
food and we down a bunch of beers. Moses is looming directly over head,
perfectly silhouetted against the night sky. I love the desert.
Too early- fuck it's cold. All-in-one-pot-wonder breakfast is downed
quickly. We leave the big piece- we'll climb moses, not necessarily the
route. We opt to skip the first boulder problem pitch for the 5.8
variation. If it's going to be aided anyway, why bother? Hump, hump, hump.
The walk up is so much better than Jah Man. Another party arrives at the
parking area.
Mike takes off on the first traversing pitch- we're wasting no time. We
want to be off this thing as quickly as possible.
I grab the rack- a few tasty moves to the base of the finger crack. Whoa- I
can't climb finger cracks... I stare up then back to Mike, "We're gonna die
up here."
A knowing nod is my reply. Grunt, grunt, the pitch is sustained- but there
are rests. I'm breathing hard. More moves... two feet from the anchor and
a moments inattention. I'm off. Fuck. I almost had it. Reset and grab
the anchor. Mike races up. "How'd it go?"
"Not too well. I think we're fucked."
We only have one rope- can't really get back to the ground from here. I
offer some encouragement and soon he's on his way... down. The next pitch
is as much down and over as it is up.
"Don't place gear too soon." I call over calmly. Mike is sketching and
looking at a big pendulum into the corner. It's gonna hurt. He calms down
and then floats the pitch.
The next pitch says "scary" on the topo. I'm not sure why. Above is one of
the most perfect cracks I've ever seen. Like Think Pink or Incredible Hand
Crack, but better. As I step up onto the spike of rock nestled into the
corner- the whole things rocks. I'm scared now. Into the jams I launch.
Fun stuff. A thin roof and then the business. Hands and big hands (my
favorite) up clean overhanging dihedrals. I'm pumped. Still holding on. A
rest here, a rest there. I'm dumping the cams fast. This is some of the
best desert climbing I've ever done. Clean and at the top of the pitch I'm
elated.
Mike makes great work on following. He's such a strong boulderer and face
climber, but still hasn't worked out the monkey jams... it's coming though.
Just a matter of time and I can hand him all the tough pitches.
Above is a short funky pitch (nuts in the desert) and then the crux Ear
pitch. We won't be freeing that today. Nylon holds are so positive. Funky
wide moves must be freed at the end. I can tell I'm starting to cook. I
haven't covered this much strenuous climbing in a day in a long time. The
spacious belay ledge is great.
The "Hidden" chimney is all that remains to the summit. A bit of side-ways
tunneling deposits me once again at the base of a perfect hand crack. It's
nice and cool in here away from the south facing sun. In a flash it's over.
Nice chains at the top. Too bad the last two bolts protecting funky moves
to the summit are ancient relics. They don't inspire confidence.
The summit is perfect. A flatter, more pristine desert tower cannot exist.
We're unroped and romping around. Thumb the summit register. Lots of
people I know... Nate and Dan... one of them was proud of the tape gloves
they made... Mike thinks it's Dan's writing. In the span of a couple of
weeks last year, I know about 15 people that summited the tower.
Jonny, "Handies and fingies forever." Yeah, that sounds like him. That
sums up the tower perfectly.
"Did you free the ear?" Hell no. But I'm proud with what we did that day.
A super perfect splitter day on splitter sandstone in a great desert.
The other party finally arrived up the other side and strung fixed lines
down Primrose for a "photo shoot" the next day. Rap, rap, rap on someone
else's cords and we were at the bottom. A quick run down the hill to cold
beer and a hasty trip back to the rim and home.
It doesn't get much better.
Cheers
e
--
Necessity is the plea for every infringement of human freedom. It is the
argument of tyrants; it is the creed of slaves. -William Pitt, British
prime-minister (1759-1806)
Guillaume Dargaud
> "We'll probably die."
> "Yeah, we probably will... okay"
Hmmm, we plan on doing it in 2 weeks... Should I keep reading this TR or not
?
--
Guillaume Dargaud
Colorado State University - Dept of Atmospheric Science
http://www.gdargaud.net/Photo/
"Alcohol, firearms and a 4 wheel drive can go a long ways towards making a
rain day into a fun rest day." — Frank Stock.
Paulina
> > "Let's do Moses."
> > "We'll probably die."
> > "Yeah, we probably will... okay"
>
> Hmmm, we plan on doing it in 2 weeks... Should I keep reading this TR or not
> ?
I'll spoil this for you - they made it ;-) And had a great time too.
Will be looking forward to your account
Paulina
Eric D. Coomer
"Guillaume Dargaud" <news_co...@gdargaud.net> wrote in message
news:3cbf...@news.ColoState.EDU...
> > "Let's do Moses."
> > "We'll probably die."
> > "Yeah, we probably will... okay"
>
> Hmmm, we plan on doing it in 2 weeks... Should I keep reading this TR or
not
In 2 weeks if the temps continue like they have been, it may be roasting
hot. Though, we're in a cool spell right now...
This climb deserves ever comment I've ever heard about it. It's one of the
best climbs I've done. Every pitch (even the chicken traverse) is awesome.
The tope of the tower is indescribable.
We made the drive from Moab to the parking area in < 2 hours. We made the
drive out in exactly 1 hour. My truck will need new shocks long before
they're recommended...
Michael A. Riches
coo...@ix.netcom.com wrote on 4/18/02 2:58 PM:
> It doesn't get much better.
>
> Cheers
> e
>
> -
Thanks Eric...love that desert, some of us are uhhhh hummmm, rather
fortunate to live in the promised land...hope to see out there some day.
Ratzzz...
JKVawter
> "Let's do Moses."
>
> "We'll probably die."
>
> "Yeah, we probably will... okay"
>
> We headed down to Moab. . . . .
Ah, great TR. Satisfying to read. Thanks for taking the time to share it.
JKVawter
Eric D. Coomer
Thanks for the comments. It *was* a satisfying day. Maybe I can get into
this free climbing stuff... ;)
Cheers
Eric
--
Necessity is the plea for every infringement of human freedom. It is the
argument of tyrants; it is the creed of slaves. -William Pitt, British
prime-minister (1759-1806)
"JKVawter" <jkvawt...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:3CBFA3C3...@earthlink.net...
JKVawter
> You'll be in Vegas yes? Looking forward to meeting you.
>
> Thanks for the comments. It *was* a satisfying day. Maybe I can get into
> this free climbing stuff... ;
You're welcome. I'm flying in on May 1. Looking forward to meeting you too,
along with the rest of the suspects.
JKVawter
Frank Stock
> the most perfect cracks I've ever seen. Like Think Pink or Incredible Hand
> Crack, but better. As I step up onto the spike of rock nestled into the
> corner- the whole things rocks. I'm scared now. Into the jams I launch.
> Fun stuff. A thin roof and then the business. Hands and big hands (my
> favorite) up clean overhanging dihedrals. I'm pumped. Still holding on. A
> rest here, a rest there. I'm dumping the cams fast. This is some of the
> best desert climbing I've ever done. Clean and at the top of the pitch I'm
> elated.
Isnt that the best pitch of climbing ever? Indian creek pitch in the
middle of a freekin tower. Pulling a perfect hands roof, looking back
into one of the most beautiful places on the planet-definately the
shit.
>
> It doesn't get much better.
>
> Cheers
> e
It certainly doesnt.
Cheers,
Frank
Jason Lucero
Jason
--
These are my opinions, not necessarily the voice's in my head.