Squamish TR : Part X (Last one)
A.M.
Part X
With the completion, albeit exhaustingly so, of the Split Pillar, Wolfang
and I were immensely satisfied with our efforts in Squamish. The remaining
days were filled with rest, walks up the backside of the Chief, and forays
into the still tiny town of Squamish. We explored the boulders in front of
the Chief, including the gigantic Kacodemon Boulder where we found the
famous route "Permanent Waves (5.13c)". For kicks, Wolfang climbed it, since
the draws were already kindly equipped on each bolt to the anchors.
Obviously it did not go cleanly, but it was fun watching him work such a
sick route.
Looking in the guidebook, I thought it might be a nice idea to explore the
backside of the Chief and try and climb "Sunblessed (5.10b)", a 3-pitch
route which is located on a crag called the "Solarium". It is aptly named
so, as the "backside" of the Chief actually receives a wonderful blessing of
sun during the day, even though its' trails are strangely unworn, and it's
climbs are usually empty.
We made the long trek up the backside trail, following the guidebook
instructions as well as we could. After a full hour we had passed the White
cliff, and found the "guidebook exit" from the gully, onto the slabs which
would supposedly lead to the Solarium cliff. My partner Wolfang, and
Alejandra were not enjoying the tiring trip we were having, especially
considering the fact that we had no idea where this magical "Solarium" was
anyway. So I dropped my pack and volunteered to scout ahead and find the
crag on my own.
I ran off ahead, darting through underbrush and pine trees, looking for some
sign of a trail. After a while I found one, which then diverted into many
trails, some leading down, some straight, and some up. I followed the
straight path, and soon found myself along some beautiful black granite
slabs. Traversing along the trail, which got increasingly thin, I suddenly
found myself strung out on a ledge the width of a banana, which dropped away
for 20 metres below. So I backtracked and took the other trail which led
down.
Again the paths diverged into countless little trails. Following one, I
would end up at a dead end, or at the beginning of some unknown crack or
climb. I kept looking for the "Sunblessed" start, but in the end I could not
decipher which one it was. Slightly frustrated, I ran back towards my
friends. When I finally arrived, an hour and a half had passed, and they
were less than cordial upon hearing my news. We decided, unfortunately, to
turn back.
Upon our return down the backside of the Chief, we made a detour on the
"Squaw" trail, and soon arrived at the "Cirque of the Uncrackables", a dark
and shady crag which hosts a large quantity of difficult and long single
pitch crack routes. There was a 5.9 offwidth crack near the start, next to
an unappealing 5.10a flake. We passed both, and came to a series of
overhanging, off-width, sick-looking cracks, which invited climbing about as
much as a trip to get your teeth pulled at the dentist.
We walked along and came up to "Cobra Crack (A2)", a Peter Croft Aid route
which is perhaps the finest looking finger-crack I have ever seen. The
problem is that it is overhung so badly that it has never been freed. And
many have tried. The crack was literally sewn up with somebody's rack. TCU's
and small wires were in the crack from start to finish, biners not included,
making a veritable connect-the-dots beta on the pro. As far as I know,
Andrew Boyd and Jordan Wright have both tried to work the project, and it
may finally go free at something around 5.14a! Just seeing that route was
reason enough to visit the Cirque.
We left the Cirque, having desire to climb nothing there, and returned to
Campground Wall, to try something new. I decided on "A Pitch in Time
(5.10b)", the overhung fist-crack we had seen on day one. I started up it
easily enough, but was soon sketching like a new climber on a 5.4. I didn't
trust a single piece, I was frightened every time I moved up, and fist jams
were feeling very inadequate. I groveled up the crack, over-protecting like
crazy, until I finally collapsed on tension, unwilling to go further. When
my mind cleared, I realized I had barely climbed 8 metres. I lowered to the
ground, humbled in the most unmerciful way. And then Wolfang did what
Wolfang does best. He grabbed the rack, and led the crack in style. Clipping
the anchors, he had barely expended an effort. I politely declined the
invite to toprope the route.
The next day we decided would be our last. Bad weather would be moving in,
and so we headed to the Smoke Bluffs to have one last fun time in Squamish.
I was, naturally, disappointed with my efforts on "A Pitch in Time", and
today I felt strong, with renewed confidence and excitement. My last day in
Squamish I really wanted to push the limits of my climbing.
We trekked to "Penny Lane" Crag, and I went in search of something
interesting. A few metres right of the namesake climb "Penny Lane (5.9)", I
came across a nice looking flake route "Climb and Punishment (5.10d)".
Without further ado, I racked up, and started off. The first moves require
some bouldery moments to scramble up the slab which bars the way to the
flake. Once at the base of the right-facing flake, I put in some pro, and
started laybacking up. Before long, I came to the thin finish of the crack,
and clipped a doubtful piton. After chalking up, I grabbed a crimp, made a
few moves, and chucked for a jug. I mantled onto the first ledge, and placed
some protection, happy with my success so far. The finish to the climb was a
beautiful off-balance right-facing finger-crack. I decided to place my new
#2 Rock Empire Cam in, and jammed happily up the crack to finish the route.
Setting the anchor, I lowered off to allow Wolfang to top rope the route.
After he cleaned the anchors, we moved onto "Penny Lane", a beautiful and
fun crack which allowed for both fingers and fists on slightly slabby rock,
with ample stemming opportunities. Wolfang led it easily, and waited for me
at the anchors. I followed quickly, practically jogging up the route,
cleaning the gear without any complications. Strangely enough, the route was
covered in somebody's blood. Every few metres the dark streaks of dried
blood was smeared in the crack and on the slab. I wondered what the story
was here.
We moved on, and soon came across "Neat and Cool" crag again, and I decided
that it would be challenging to try the short 15 metre Peter Croft route
"Kangaroo Corner (5.11a)". The crack itself is only about 8 metres, but it
is very thin. It starts in an open book corner, with a left facing crack
which allows one to stem on the other side of the rock. Slotting small wires
above my head, I attempted to crimp my way up the thin crack. I fell once
onto a good nut, before I made the bouldery moves to the ledge, and then the
easy wider crack to the anchors. After that route, we toproped the arête
next to Kangaroo Corner, a man-made side of rock, created by dynamite holes
long ago. It was a fun diversion from the usual climbing, since it was all
face climbing, and no cracks.
So I managed to finish the trip with my first ascent of an .11a, which I was
very satisfied with. Squamish is one of the most beautiful places I have
ever visited, and it is truly a rock climbers paradise. There were so many
routes which were left unclimbed, which I will go back to try someday when
time, and skill, allow : Rock On (Apron), Squamish Buttress, Angel's Crest,
Sunblessed, Lower Malamute, etc etc. And one day, perhaps I will have the
guts to try to climb the Split Pillar on lead.
Julie
Some damn nice writing. Thanks.
JSH
Mad Dog
>Squamish TR : Fear of A Black Granite
>Part X
>Squamish is one of the most beautiful places I have ever visited, and
>it is truly a rock climbers paradise.
Yo, Adrian! You've come a long way since your first leads back at Mt. Nemo,
which do not seem to be all that long ago.