End-game strategy?
Wesley Clifford
than anything else. I've figured out what my goals are in the middle
game, and how to achieve them.
But the end game has be baffled. Basically, what I'm talking about is
after there is no more chance of capture. It seems to me that getting
your pieces into your home territory is the most important thing, but
by watching the computer, it seems to move pieces around within it's
home.
Also, I get burned a lot when I am 'holding' his pieces in my home
territory, or in the knocked out zone. No matter what I do, I always
end up having to leave an unprotected checker and invariably, when I
do, the computer knocks it out.
Mostly, I can get out of this by doubling. The computer almost always
refuses the double and I win by default. However, I'd rather know what
to do, for those occations where I can't double (Already have) or the
computer accepts.
Is there any strategies that can be used to minimize my losses here?
--Wesley
The only stupid question is the unasked question.
And that's a good thing, because I hate stupid questions!
Walter Trice
Wesley Clifford wrote in message <38610f1c...@news.apk.net>...
>OK, I've got the opening rolls memorized, more due to number of games
>than anything else. I've figured out what my goals are in the middle
>game, and how to achieve them.
>
>But the end game has be baffled. Basically, what I'm talking about is
>after there is no more chance of capture. It seems to me that getting
>your pieces into your home territory is the most important thing, but
>by watching the computer, it seems to move pieces around within it's
>home.
The computers generally screw this up, giving away a rather small amount of
equity. The ideal position to shoot for when you're bearing in is this: 3
men on the 4 point, 5 on the 5, and 7 on the 6. Or something close to that.
>Also, I get burned a lot when I am 'holding' his pieces in my home
>territory, or in the knocked out zone. No matter what I do, I always
>end up having to leave an unprotected checker and invariably, when I
>do, the computer knocks it out.
>
>Mostly, I can get out of this by doubling. The computer almost always
>refuses the double and I win by default.
This probably means you're doubling too late.
>However, I'd rather know what
>to do, for those occations where I can't double (Already have) or the
>computer accepts.
>
>Is there any strategies that can be used to minimize my losses here?
The ancient Kit Woolsey maxim is "clear from the rear and don't ask
questions." That's normally the most important thing -- clearing your points
from the back. In any particular position that may not be enough to know,
though. Another useful guideline is to count the numbers that leave shots
next turn and make the play that pays off least in the immediate future.
However that's sometimes wrong too, because there is a benefit to bearing
off checkers and sometimes this benefit outweighs an increased risk of
getting hit. Another useful rule is to have an even number of checkers on
your highest point and also on your highest two points. But again there are
exceptions, such as when leaving 2 checkers on each of the 4 and 5 points
gives you a few double-blot numbers next turn. Also the strength of your
opponent's position, and whether it's getting stronger or weaker, often
dictates different plays.
In short, it's rather complicated. To make the technically correct plays all
the time is just about impossible. There's a whole section of Robertie's
"Advanced Backgammon" that treats the contact bearoff, but he just scratches
the surface. However, you'll do pretty well if you just keep in mind the
"clear from the rear", "stay even", and "take off checkers" rules and work
on getting a feel for how to balance them against each other when they
conflict, as they often will.
-- walter trice
JP White
> OK, I've got the opening rolls memorized, more due to number of games
> than anything else. I've figured out what my goals are in the middle
> game, and how to achieve them.
>
> But the end game has be baffled. Basically, what I'm talking about is
> after there is no more chance of capture. It seems to me that getting
> your pieces into your home territory is the most important thing, but
> by watching the computer, it seems to move pieces around within it's
> home.
I agree with Walter. The computer does make some bizarre moves, and should
not be totally trusted to make the best moves.
>
> Also, I get burned a lot when I am 'holding' his pieces in my home
> territory, or in the knocked out zone. No matter what I do, I always
> end up having to leave an unprotected checker and invariably, when I
> do, the computer knocks it out.
>
> Mostly, I can get out of this by doubling. The computer almost always
> refuses the double and I win by default. However, I'd rather know what
> to do, for those occations where I can't double (Already have) or the
> computer accepts.
>
> Is there any strategies that can be used to minimize my losses here?
>
> --Wesley
Backgammon literature is a good place to start. The book Walter Trice
recommended sounds like a good choice from a top notch author and player.
I would also advise that you consider Magriel's Backgammon. It devotes an
entire section (3 chapters) to the endgame and deals with the situations
you have described.
Most of these quality books are quite pricey. If money's a problem, then
the local library or used book store may have a few gems awaiting you!
It's not too late for Santa Claus to bring you something!
Merry Christmas
--
JP White
Mailto:jp.w...@nashville.com
Chuck Bower
>Wesley Clifford wrote in message <38610f1c...@news.apk.net>...
>>OK, I've got the opening rolls memorized, more due to number of games
>>than anything else. I've figured out what my goals are in the middle
>>game, and how to achieve them.
>>
>>But the end game has be baffled. Basically, what I'm talking about is
>>after there is no more chance of capture. It seems to me that getting
>>your pieces into your home territory is the most important thing, but
>>by watching the computer, it seems to move pieces around within it's
>>home.
>
>The computers generally screw this up, giving away a rather small amount of
>equity. The ideal position to shoot for when you're bearing in is this: 3
>men on the 4 point, 5 on the 5, and 7 on the 6. Or something close to that.
>
>>Also, I get burned a lot when I am 'holding' his pieces in my home
>>territory, or in the knocked out zone. No matter what I do, I always
>>end up having to leave an unprotected checker and invariably, when I
>>do, the computer knocks it out.
>>
>>Mostly, I can get out of this by doubling. The computer almost always
>>refuses the double and I win by default.
>
>This probably means you're doubling too late.
>
>>However, I'd rather know what
>>to do, for those occations where I can't double (Already have) or the
>>computer accepts.
>>
>>Is there any strategies that can be used to minimize my losses here?
>
>The ancient Kit Woolsey
Gee, I know Kit's no spring chicken, but does he deserve this?? :)
>maxim is "clear from the rear and don't ask
>questions." That's normally the most important thing -- clearing your points
>from the back. In any particular position that may not be enough to know,
>though. Another useful guideline is to count the numbers that leave shots
>next turn and make the play that pays off least in the immediate future.
>However that's sometimes wrong too, because there is a benefit to bearing
>off checkers and sometimes this benefit outweighs an increased risk of
>getting hit. Another useful rule is to have an even number of checkers on
>your highest point and also on your highest two points. But again there are
>exceptions, such as when leaving 2 checkers on each of the 4 and 5 points
>gives you a few double-blot numbers next turn. Also the strength of your
>opponent's position, and whether it's getting stronger or weaker, often
>dictates different plays.
>
>In short, it's rather complicated. To make the technically correct plays all
>the time is just about impossible. There's a whole section of Robertie's
>"Advanced Backgammon" that treats the contact bearoff, but he just scratches
>the surface. However, you'll do pretty well if you just keep in mind the
>"clear from the rear", "stay even", and "take off checkers" rules and work
>on getting a feel for how to balance them against each other when they
>conflict, as they often will.
A good question followed by excellent advice, IMO. From your question
one can already see you have a good eye for the game. On the internet
magazine, GammOnLine ($36/year and a great Christmas present for the serious
student/player) has an ongoing match and for the last few days the plays
and discussions have been on a similar topic--bearing in safely with a
closed board but an opponent checker on the bar. From the voting it is
clear that even seasoned players can disagree on the proper strategy and
tactics.
I also liked JP White's reply, but I stitched onto the thread at Walter's
post so I could make the joke. Wesley, it sounds like you've gone from the
"I'm curious about this strange game" to "I'm hooked!". If that's the case,
WECOME TO OUR GREAT GAME, and I recommend you now find a copy of
BACKGAMMON by Paul Magriel and take it to bed with you (but be careful
not to anger your spouse :). It ain't cheap. I've seen a used softback
for $30, and some people have been lucky to find copies in yard sales or
at used bookstores in the $5-$10 range. However, a "fair market price"
for a used hardcover is in the $50-$65 region. But if you're serious about
BG, it's definitely worth it. 400 pages and you'll learn A LOT more than
about just the topic you requested. After absorbing Magriel, move onto
Robertie's two volume ADVANCED BACKGAMMON which Walter recommended. It's
also very valuable, but new copies are available from several sources
(for example, Carol Joy Cole-- c...@tir.com ). They also carry a steep
price tag but are well worth it to the serious player.
Finally, I like Walter's "In short, it's rather complicated." You
might think something like this can be summed up in a couple simple 'rules'.
Well, Walter gave you some really good rules which cover MOST situations.
However, the cliche' "every rule has its exception" was never more true
than in backgammon. That is one of the things that has caused this game
to last for milleniums--the more you learn, the more you realize there is
so much more to learn.
Chuck
bo...@bigbang.astro.indiana.edu
c_ray on FIBS
Vince Mounts
> WECOME TO OUR GREAT GAME, and I recommend you now find a copy of
> BACKGAMMON by Paul Magriel and take it to bed with you (but be careful
> not to anger your spouse :). It ain't cheap. I've seen a used softback
> for $30, and some people have been lucky to find copies in yard sales or
> at used bookstores in the $5-$10 range. However, a "fair market price"
> for a used hardcover is in the $50-$65 region. But if you're serious
about
> BG, it's definitely worth it. 400 pages and you'll learn A LOT more than
> about just the topic you requested. After absorbing Magriel, move onto
> Robertie's two volume ADVANCED BACKGAMMON which Walter recommended. It's
> also very valuable, but new copies are available from several sources
> (for example, Carol Joy Cole-- c...@tir.com ). They also carry a steep
> price tag but are well worth it to the serious player.
Wow. Is this true? $50-65? Oh for 'the good ole days' back when noone knew
an ebay from a hole in their head and I snagged a hardcover copy for a mere
$15. But it is good to know if I am ever hurting for money I have a
something to hawk lol. Though I doubt I could actually bear to part with it.