Top 5 beginner blunders
VSG
of you have noticed that beginners and novices all tend to make the same
mistakes over and over again. What I plan to do is compile a top 5(perhaps 10
depending on this posts response)of the most common beginner errors which I hope
to then address using graphic boards, Jellyfish analysis and other resources.
Basically, I think my quizzes really only cater for intermediates and above due
to their difficulty. I havn't really thought much about the format or how I can
best address the issues of basic errors. I'm first going to compile a list of
the top 5 errors and then work from there. My perception of the top 5 errors are
as follows...
1. Running from the rear when behind in a race.
2. Candlestick making (stacking checkers on few points and general inflexible
play)
3. Relinquishing key points to early.(5 point)
4. Doubling decisions how to evaluate a position etc.
5. Understanding safe vs bold play.
Well that is roughly the order I'd put them in. Although the 5th point might
possibly be higher as it is important. Others might include "mixing it up" when
behind... Recirculation of checkers... rolling primes home. etc.
Have I missed anything? I'm referring to basic errors, not for example backgame
errors etc.
Any ideas on how to best bring these concepts across would be welcome as well as
any error that I may have missed.
kind regards
Alan Webb
Webby's Backgammon Site
www.isg-vsg.de/backgammon/BGHome.htm
Art Grater
VSG wrote in message <7vpmag$bu2$1...@news00.btx.dtag.de>...
Daniel Hollis
>1. Running from the rear when behind in a race.
>2. Candlestick making (stacking checkers on few points and general inflexible
>play)
>3. Relinquishing key points to early.(5 point)
>4. Doubling decisions how to evaluate a position etc.
>5. Understanding safe vs bold play.
Both 1, 5, and somewhat 2 are all related towards playing for contact
contact when behind in the race. "When ahead in the race, race. When
behind in the race, don't race". This is an idea that a beginner can both
understand and apply.
I find that novices don't fight hard enough to avoid an ace point game. It
seems unintuitive to split up to the 4 or 5 point and just leave the
checker there - especially if it leaves a blot in your own outfield. Much
more common is to run that split checker with the full roll. They seem to
do this regardless of who's ahead.
So, my #1 is "Don't play a racing game when you're behind". I'd make
your #1 a corollary to this - just point out that clearing the rear points
first is leading into a racing game.
I bet once a novice understands this, he'll naturally start splitting up
to the 4 or 5 point, and playing for contact. I don't think that novices
are afraid of leaving a checker there; it's more of what to do with the
other half of the roll that confuses them.
I also like your choices for #2 through #5. I might put 3 and 4 (I wish I
played with the cube from the beginning) higher, and 2 a little lower, but
it doesn't really matter that much - all of these are important concepts,
and they don't take too much experience to achieve a basic understanding.
And overall, I really like this new feature you've come up with.
Dan
Michael Manolios
doubt, many
> of you have noticed that beginners and novices all tend to make the
same
> mistakes over and over again.
My perception of the top 5 errors are
> as follows...
>
> 1. Running from the rear when behind in a race.
> 2. Candlestick making (stacking checkers on few points and general
inflexible
> play)
> 3. Relinquishing key points to early.(5 point)
> 4. Doubling decisions how to evaluate a position etc.
> 5. Understanding safe vs bold play.
> Any ideas on how to best bring these concepts across would be welcome
as well as
> any error that I may have missed.
> Alan Webb
>
> Webby's Backgammon Site
>
> www.isg-vsg.de/backgammon/BGHome.htm
>
>
Coming under the gun when they shouldn't and failing to do so when
they should. Very very common among novices (and not only them ...:).
Michael Manolios
(mann on FIBS)
--
We play one and only money game through our whole life...
Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.
Donald Kahn
>I've decided to add another feature to my backgammon site. I, and no doubt, many
>of you have noticed that beginners and novices all tend to make the same
>mistakes over and over again. What I plan to do is compile a top 5(perhaps 10
>depending on this posts response)of the most common beginner errors which I hope
>to then address using graphic boards, Jellyfish analysis and other resources.
>Basically, I think my quizzes really only cater for intermediates and above due
>to their difficulty. I havn't really thought much about the format or how I can
>best address the issues of basic errors. I'm first going to compile a list of
>the top 5 errors and then work from there. My perception of the top 5 errors are
>as follows...
>
>1. Running from the rear when behind in a race.
>2. Candlestick making (stacking checkers on few points and general inflexible
>play)
>3. Relinquishing key points to early.(5 point)
>4. Doubling decisions how to evaluate a position etc.
>5. Understanding safe vs bold play.
>
>Well that is roughly the order I'd put them in. Although the 5th point might
>possibly be higher as it is important. Others might include "mixing it up" when
>behind... Recirculation of checkers... rolling primes home. etc.
>
>Have I missed anything? I'm referring to basic errors, not for example backgame
>errors etc.
>
>Any ideas on how to best bring these concepts across would be welcome as well as
>any error that I may have missed.
>
>kind regards
>
>Alan Webb
>
>Webby's Backgammon Site
>
>www.isg-vsg.de/backgammon/BGHome.htm
>
>
Sorry. Left out game plan 4: Build a prime.
dk
Donald Kahn
Certainly no dispute about these, nor any of the amendments suggested
by other posters. But remembering my own beginner days, the
overriding lack was *game plan*, in other words "how am I most likely
to win this game?"
Win the race?
Hit a shot?
Run a blitz?
And then playing the rolls accordingly.
Another lack, and not just among beginners, is an understanding of the
weakness of the two back chackers, isolated by 11 pips from the rest
of your formation. That is why the concensus is solid for mobilizing
them before opponent's home board improves. I only began to
understand this when I got Woolsey's Matchqiz five years ago. And I
was playing in Championship events! (Never in the money of course,
and as a matter of fact very seldom in the money since.)
But at least now, in every game, I know what I am trying to do. This
is comforting.
dk
Julian Hayward
>
>Have I missed anything? I'm referring to basic errors, not for example backgame
>errors etc.
>
* Forgetting to cash games that are way past the takepoint.
* Blot terror - refusing to hit (especially twice) or make
critical points because doing so requires leaving several blots oneself.
--
Julian Hayward 'Booles' on FIBS jul...@ratbag.demon.co.uk
+44-1344-640656 http://www.ratbag.demon.co.uk/
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
I always said I wanted to be somebody - I should have been more specific.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
William Hill
"VSG" <vsg...@t-online.de> wrote:
>Subject: Top 5 beginner blunders
>From: "VSG"
>Organization: T-Online
>Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 17:07:00 +0100
>Newsgroups: rec.games.backgammon
>
>I've decided to add another feature to my backgammon site. I, and no doubt, many
>of you have noticed that beginners and novices all tend to make the same
>mistakes over and over again. What I plan to do is compile a top 5(perhaps 10
>depending on this posts response)of the most common beginner errors which I hope
>to then address using graphic boards, Jellyfish analysis and other resources.
>Basically, I think my quizzes really only cater for intermediates and above due
>to their difficulty. I havn't really thought much about the format or how I can
>best address the issues of basic errors. I'm first going to compile a list of
>the top 5 errors and then work from there. My perception of the top 5 errors are
>as follows...
>
>1. Running from the rear when behind in a race.
>2. Candlestick making (stacking checkers on few points and general inflexible
>play)
>3. Relinquishing key points to early.(5 point)
>4. Doubling decisions how to evaluate a position etc.
>5. Understanding safe vs bold play.
>
>Well that is roughly the order I'd put them in. Although the 5th point might
>possibly be higher as it is important. Others might include "mixing it up" when
>behind... Recirculation of checkers... rolling primes home. etc.
>
>Have I missed anything? I'm referring to basic errors, not for example backgame
>errors etc.
>
>Any ideas on how to best bring these concepts across would be welcome as well as
>any error that I may have missed.
>
>kind regards
>
>Alan Webb
>
>Webby's Backgammon Site
>
>www.isg-vsg.de/backgammon/BGHome.htm
>
>
>
Hi Folks
When I think about blunders it's really the most costly ones that I'm
concerned with, so here are a few that I think are quite important:-
1) Filling holes instead of bearing-off men.
2) Hitting men just because you can.
3) Bearing-off incorrectly against opposition, either an anchor or on the
bar.
4) Playing ultra_safe, especially in the opening.
5) Not Minimizing shots when it would be dangerous to be hit.
These are probably too general, and there are exceptions to most of them.
But if you can cut down on most of these types of errors you can win a lot
more games.
Regards
Bill Hill
Walt Swan
>
> 1. Running from the rear when behind in a race.
> 2. Candlestick making (stacking checkers on few points and general
inflexible
> play)
> 3. Relinquishing key points to early.(5 point)
> 4. Doubling decisions how to evaluate a position etc.
> 5. Understanding safe vs bold play.
>
> Well that is roughly the order I'd put them in. Although the 5th point
might
> possibly be higher as it is important. Others might include "mixing it up"
when
> behind... Recirculation of checkers... rolling primes home. etc.
>
> Have I missed anything? I'm referring to basic errors, not for example
backgame
> errors etc.
>
a) Trying to win game twice. In other words taking big risks for small gains
when game has been won. (Your #5)
b) Switching home board point just to Keep hitting.
c) Not playing doubles 4 moves individually.
d) Real beginners, not noticing a shot hits ( in other words moving
legally), I rolled 6,3. My (24 point) man perhaps can hit that man way out
there (on 15 point) Lets see hop hop hop hop hop... darn it one hop shot.
e) Giving up midpoint.
f) Hitting on wrong side of board.
g) Coming under the gun.
Alan Webb
>Hi Folks
>
>When I think about blunders it's really the most costly ones that I'm
>concerned with, so here are a few that I think are quite important:-
>
>1) Filling holes instead of bearing-off men.
>2) Hitting men just because you can.
>3) Bearing-off incorrectly against opposition, either an anchor or on the
>bar.
>4) Playing ultra_safe, especially in the opening.
>5) Not Minimizing shots when it would be dangerous to be hit.
>
>These are probably too general, and there are exceptions to most of them.
>But if you can cut down on most of these types of errors you can win a lot
>more games.
>
>
>
>Regards
>
>Bill Hill
>
>
Thanks for everyones input to date. I've taken it all on board and will try
to implement whats been mentioned in one form or another. I have a pretty
good idea now of what I want to achieve and would appreciate any Jellyfish
users out there who come across a position which might ideal for
illustration purposes to save it and email it to me in .pos format.
Kind regards
Alan Webb
Webby's Backgammon Site
Paul Tanenbaum
> In article <7vpmag$bu2$1...@news00.btx.dtag.de>, "VSG" wrote:
> > ... I, and no doubt, many of you have noticed that beginners and
> > novices all tend to make the same mistakes over and over again.
>
> >
> > 2. Candlestick making (stacking checkers on few points and general
> > inflexible play)
> > 4. Doubling decisions how to evaluate a position etc.
> > 5. Understanding safe vs bold play.
>
> Coming under the gun when they shouldn't and failing to do so when
> they should. Very very common among novices (and not only them ...:).
> Michael Manolios
Er, if one can distinguish between coming under the gun correctly
and incorrectly, one isn't a novice.
This doesn't belong in a list of rules aimed at beginners.
---
Paul T.
Paul Tanenbaum
"Walt Swan" <walt...@ntr.net> wrote:
> > ...
> > 1. Running from the rear when behind in a race.
> > 2. Candlestick making
> > 4. Doubling decisions how to evaluate a position etc.
> > 5. Understanding safe vs bold play.
>
> a) ...
>
> b) Switching home board points just to keep hitting.
But this is often correct, and takes skill to recognize when.
So it's not a "beginner's blunder".
> c) Not playing doubles 4 moves individually.
?
> d) Real beginners, not noticing a shot hits ( in other words moving
> legally), I rolled 63. My (24 point) man perhaps can hit that man way
> out there (on 15 point) Lets see hop hop hop hop hop... darn it one
> hop shot.
Not a blunder that can be 'cured' with some advice. They just have
to play enough to learn to see the board.
> e) Giving up midpoint.
Good one.
Specifically, "Should I give up the midpoint to hit that blot?"
> f) Hitting on wrong side of board.
Yeah, but how do you know which is the wrong side?
I think what you mean is, "When in doubt, hit on the other guy's
side."
> g) Coming under the gun.
Over-rated.
See http://www.backgammon.org/bgbb/Problems_1/01a.html
david
>
>>
>> 1. Running from the rear when behind in a race.
>inflexible
>> play)
>> 4. Doubling decisions how to evaluate a position etc.
>> 5. Understanding safe vs bold play.
>>
>might
>> possibly be higher as it is important. Others might include "mixing it up"
>when
>> behind... Recirculation of checkers... rolling primes home. etc.
>>
>> Have I missed anything? I'm referring to basic errors, not for example
>backgame
>> errors etc.
>>
>
>a) Trying to win game twice. In other words taking big risks for small gains
>when game has been won. (Your #5)
>
>b) Switching home board point just to Keep hitting.
>
>
>there (on 15 point) Lets see hop hop hop hop hop... darn it one hop shot.
>
>
>f) Hitting on wrong side of board.
>
>
>
>
>
--------------------------
da...@infoplus.demon.co.uk
leemo on GamesGrid
--------------------------
Vince Mounts
run together. My keyboard's space bar is having problems and I'm sure I
missed a few of em.
There a few tournaments at the MSN Zone that run everyday and I like to
enter now and again. I would guess the Zone consists of 80-90% very weak
players(at least thetourneys do) so I have had ample opportunity to play
(and yes, be beat by :( ) these types of players. The things I see them
doing which perhaps could be easily explained/improved are....
Checker Play
------------------------------
1) They tend to play way too safe in the opening few moves.
Perhaps this could be extended to the entire game, however, the middle
game choices are perhaps not beginner type choices so lets stick with the
opening. Seeing 13/8 for an opening 4-1 or 3-2 is very very common. To
correct this problem the beginner needs to understand a) The blot leaving
plays allow you to make points(either offensive or defensive) a lot easier
on the next roll. Perhaps a list of the new rolls that make a point compared
to the opps roll that point on them would make this clear. Also, an
understanding of which points are best as discussed below can help to see
that the split men aren't in any real danger. b)An undertanding that an
early hit when no board exists is not so bad. This gives plenty of rolls to
anchor up and being behind already gives the "freedom" to be aggressive in
the future.
***********
2) Beginners don't understand which points are the important ones!!!!
This takes many forms and is the biggest error IMHO.
Assume you have split with a 2-3 on the first roll. Now you roll
6-1.Beginners make the bar. They don't understand that the 5 point is
better. The 5 is the opps best anchor and making it takes it from them. It
is better because it covers the outfield better and best minimizes gammon
chances. So thats why you should make it(to take it from your opp). Also, an
inner point is better due to making you opponent dance more often. Plus it i
s hard to make the 5 point once the the bar is made due to stripped points.
Usually making the 5 point leaves more builders and therefore more
flexibility for making future points.
Beginners love to hit on the ace point early. A hit is hit and a point
is a point right? Why leave more shots going for a different point. Plus
they think,,, "hey if he misses a blot on the one then he gets no second
chance even if I cant cover... Not true of a blot on the say 5 or 4 point".
They fail to see that the one point isn't helping anything. It can never
block the opponent in, thus giving him a better chance to escape(beginners
have no concept of priming aS i touch on later). With less checkers in play
it will be harder to get home yourself because you will have less places to
land and less pieces to make places to land.
The same usually applies on the other side of the board. The beginners
make little if any effort to make an advanced anchor. They sit back on the 1
point and wait for the 6-X roll that allows them to run for home. They don't
understand that advancing lets them escape easier and covers the outfield to
hit the opp and stop the opp from easily building up a blockade. Also, note
that is a direct consequence of number 1 above and their own belief that
hitting on the low points is somehow good.
If beginners followed a rule that the points 5, 7, 4 (in roughly this
order, with 4 and 7 being very close especially with other points in hand)
are the best I think they could hardly go wrong often.
3) Running when behind.
This is one I don't see as much as some suggest in this thread but
important none-the-less. The reason for not seeing it is basically because
of number 1. They are too afraid to run. However, get a huge lead and leave
a bunch of blots in your home(behind them) and they run. You are leaving the
blots to be flexible and improve distib for your huge race lead. You don't
even care if you get a hit but can't use it. But the beginner sees this as a
good chance to get "out of dodge". Needless to say they are often suprised
once you let them "escape" and turn the cube on your 20+ pip lead. This is
due to their conception of the game as mostly luck. They don't understand
the odds of rolling the 6-6 they now need to win.
4) Breaking anchor way to early in holding game.
They don't understand that since you are holding too and have a good
anchor that you don't mind attacking the remaining checker. In fact, at
times it seems they think of the coming attack as to their advantage(the
over-safe play rearing its head again). This again is because they don't
understand that with your loose hit they are the underdog to hit back(if a
single shot). They just see it as a chance to hit a checker regardless of
the actual odds. This can be a tough one to explain. Especially if they have
just finally understood that playing safe early is not always best. They key
here is that it isn't early anymore. The extra home board points that can
make them dance make their safe instincts correct now. Again this is not as
prevalent as some of the others due to over-safe play in general but every
now and again the beginner decides to play "craps" instead of backgammon
when the game gets close.
5) Beginners have no concept of a priming game(I know I sure didn't when I
started)
This is in a way part of understanding the importance of each point.
After all, Priming/blocking is why those points are better. In fact, perhaps
this is not a new blunder but just part of the others.
5) Stacking too many on high points in preparation for bearoff.
I see this often. We are racing. I am filling in holes for the future
bearoff. Perhaps with a 2 I play 6/4 instead of 8/6. I have even heard
comments on this a couple times. They don't understand. Surely they will get
in quicker and therefore win right? Obviously this is not correct. It is ok
to leave another outside and fill the hole. Yes they may start a roll before
I do taking men off.By my last man comes off a roll or so sooner.
Cube Play
--------------
This needs to be kept simple. Lots of cube concepts are advanced.
1) 2 away- 3+away cubes.
Lots of beginners don't understand what to do after accepting a 2 away
cube. If they choose to take it they should re-whip to 4. Many times I have
offered a double and the beginner takes. I think to myself. Hmmm,,, well
with the re-whip maybe it is a take. Or even ,,, oh shoot,,,with the re-whip
I just screwed up. But the cube never comes back making my double a clear
drop (i.e. if they couldn't rewhip it would be a clear drop). I don't think
this is because they plan to hold it until winning (and it definitley
doesn't come back when they get a "shot" to win). In fact beginners very
rarely offer 4 cubes (too scared to play for that kind of stake). This is a
big big cube error of beginners.
The corollary is also true. Because of the rewhip to 4 a 2away double is
often offered way too soon. I have won quite a few matches by taking a
boarderline money drop and turning the cube to 4 next turn. A rule of thumb
here is that, unlike the the situations discussed below, leading the match
and at 2 away dont cube until its a drop. This is not really true but is a
good beginner rule. This is what I did when starting out once I learned
about the 2away scores. Just play until the drop is clear.
2) 2away- 2away cubes
Beginners almost always wait until this one is a drop. Now the 80%
winning chance they attained is reduced to 70% match chances. They don't
understand that at this score it is absolutly imperative to get a take.
3) Post-crawford cubes
I saw one of these today. 1away pc - 4 away. A tough battle ensued but
no cube (note: the battle was occuring mostly due to me knowing the cube
wasn't coming and if it did I had a free drop. Otherwise I wouldn't have
been playing quite as loose.) This one I don't get. Nothing to lose here so
they should go for it. What I'm not sure of is if they are trying to cube me
out later on or if they think losing 6-1/5 is worse than 5-1/5. Either way
the mandatory cube should be easy to explain on the "nothing to lose"
reasoning.
4) Doubling too late. (before anyone gets 2away)
Just when you think the beginner has decided to play on for the gammon
here comes the cube for an easy drop. Not understanding the game enough the
beginner wants to make sure you don't take the cube. They should understand
that getting takes in the long run gives you more points (2 is more than 1
lol). I think the only way to learn this is to start doubling earlier than
you _think_ you should and see what happens. See how often you get cubed
out. This is the only way to learn this one. Also, perhaps point out that
when lots of rolls make you way ahead you should make your opp "pay" to see
if you get one of the few bad ones.
Proper actions in matches they are losing goes along with this. It is
easy to demonstrate that when losing the cubes should come even earlier.
Reasoning similar to the "nothing to lose" line above should show this.
5) Accepting gammonish cubes.
One on the bar. 3 point board for the opp. Double or triple shot at a
second blot. They take it every time. I think what is happening here is they
are looking at winning chances. Some gammonish cubes are maybe only in the
50-60% win range. The beginner knows they have ok chances to win and ignore
the 4 point losses as a result. Again, this one is tough to teach except by
example and experience. And indeed I have found that experience does teach
this one quickly if they see it enough. They may play like a complete
beginner in the rest of the game but understand a drop due to gammons. A
good sequence to see this one is. 1)6-2: 24/18 13/11 - 5-5: 6/1*(2) 8/3(2)
2) 6-1 Dance - Double/drop.... lots of shots at the second blot and brings
builder into place.
6) Accepted cubes when primed
This is perhaps a little like above, but above I mean more of a blitz
than a prime. They just don't see how hard it is to escape say a 5 prime. A
good rule here "might" be that if you have 2 men behind a 5 prime and dont
own 4 or 5 blocking points of your own it is probably a drop. (unless of
course the opps timing sucks but this is bit advanced,,, i'd guess this rule
wouldn't go wrong often). If you have one man behind a 5 prime,,, again you
probably need at least 4 blocks or that your opp has a lot of men to bring
home still. This one is tougher to make a rule for but still dropping when
behind a 5 prime cant be far from right very often. These "rules" of course
assume that you aren't already at the prime's edge.
Ok way too much typing lol. And more than 5 blunders in each category. Enjoy
:)
V
Douglas Zare
> [...]
> 1) 2 away- 3+away cubes.
> Lots of beginners don't understand what to do after accepting a 2 away
> cube. If they choose to take it they should re-whip to 4. Many times I have
> offered a double and the beginner takes. I think to myself. Hmmm,,, well
> with the re-whip maybe it is a take. Or even ,,, oh shoot,,,with the re-whip
> I just screwed up. But the cube never comes back making my double a clear
> drop (i.e. if they couldn't rewhip it would be a clear drop). I don't think
> this is because they plan to hold it until winning (and it definitley
> doesn't come back when they get a "shot" to win). In fact beginners very
> rarely offer 4 cubes (too scared to play for that kind of stake). This is a
> big big cube error of beginners.
> The corollary is also true. Because of the rewhip to 4 a 2away double is
> often offered way too soon. I have won quite a few matches by taking a
> boarderline money drop and turning the cube to 4 next turn. A rule of thumb
> here is that, unlike the the situations discussed below, leading the match
> and at 2 away dont cube until its a drop. This is not really true but is a
> good beginner rule. This is what I did when starting out once I learned
> about the 2away scores. Just play until the drop is clear.
I agree with your other comments, but there is a huge difference between this
effect for 2-away 3-away and 2-away 4-away. To win at Crawford 3-away you have
to win two one-point matches (25% for even players). So the drop point when
trailing 2-away 3-away is higher than at money play if there are no gammons. To
win at Crawford 4-away you have to win thrice or win and gammon in either
order, and for even players that would be about 18% under the assumptions at
http://www.bkgm.com/rgb/rgb.cgi?view+564 . With no gammon wins the lowest drop
point at money play is 3/16=18.75%, so one's drop point when trailing 2-away
4-away is much lower than at money play.
These assume equal play, which is not the case in the mismatched situations you
describe. You have to consider the chance that your opponent will get full
value from his/her/its position. Some positions can be judged to have little
skill left, i.e., if the dice are there, your opponent will win. If you know
that your opponent is weak you can expect to do much better at one-point
matches than 50%, so your drop point trailing 2-away 3-away should be even
higher than 25%: 55%-->30%; 70%-->49%*. At match play, weaker players usually
_should_ double early to trade expected value for variance.
I double later than normal against beginners** in matches because
1) They take at obscene equity values.
2) I don't want to have reminded them that the cube exists.
If they really won't return a 4-cube, I should rethink 2).
* These roughly correspond to Elo differences of about 150 points and 575
points, respectively, according to the adjustment to the FIBS estimate
suggested at http://www.bkgm.com/rgb/rgb.cgi?view+603 .
** Perhaps rather than beginner, one should say one who has not started
thinking about backgammon seriously. I only started playing 3-4 months ago, and
have only played a few thousand games against Jellyfish... I hope I used all of
the above terms correctly.
Douglas Zare
Me
Norbert Stippler
one thing a player has to learn is that in backgammon there are no fixed rules.
What you write is correct, but a truly advanced player should know that the
"beginner's play" can sometimes be the best play.
I pick one example out of your posting.
Vince Mounts schrieb:
> 1) 2 away- 3+away cubes.
> Lots of beginners don't understand what to do after accepting a 2 away
> cube. If they choose to take it they should re-whip to 4.
For a beginner, this is correct. But in general? No. Depends on the position. If
you have a position with a lot of potential swing in it, an endgame position for
example or a position with a decisive roll like hit/no-hit, doubling is correct.
But in positions where you are hardly in danger to lose your market, a long race
for instances, you should keep the cube.
The reason is simple. If you keep the cube you give your opponent the chance to
make a mistake.
Of course you should double when your opponent still has a take, ideally when
you are near his take-point, 70%. If, for example, your opponent drops when you
are a 60%-favorite, you gain 10% match-equity.
Norbert