soup up ideas for all
Conlan Adams
okay, i have seen some really stupid crap on here. here are some basic
soup up ideas for those who are new to the field.
1. NEW CAM!!! i wouldn't go past a 1/2 racing cam. the 1/4 is my
personal choice because its hard to tell by the idle that its ther and it
gives about a 20% hp boost on a non mod engine. that and they are
normally easy to find and start under $100.
2. HEADERS! One of the biggest horsepower for the money ratios. lets
your engine breath easier and faster. a cheap pair (most don't need to
much more) runs around a $100 as well. also difficult to tell from sound,
and you can hook them up to a cat and a stock exaust past that point and
YES there is still a large increase in hp. personally i would also spring
the extra $15-40 dollars for a glasspack or other flow through muffler if
local laws allow.
3. AIR INTAKE! if your car is running without a hose from the fender (or
other location) to the air cleaner, clear out all the unneeded matierial
from the air cleaner (leaving enough to keep the air flowing ONLY through
the filter). you will experience more horsepower (15-50 dependent on
engine) and the same realitive gas milage. DOES MORE THAN K&N AIR FILTERS
AND COSTS NOTHING unless you screw up and need to buy another air cleaner.
4. HOOD SCOOP! if you have a hose to your air intake, take it off and
put in an air scoop. if you do what i listed above you will get more
horsepower and the same gas milage. if you have no hose, put in a hood
scoop anyways. cost is around $12 for a cheap abs plastic one in JC
WHITNEY.
5. CARB! if you have a stock car (or comp chip) there is room for
upgrading!!! a good four barrel is nice or 2 2 stage 2 barrels are nicer
if you spread them out a bit. the more barrels the better allowing you
don't go over board on cfms. a good way to guess is take the cubic inches
of your engine and multiply by about 1.75 and shoot for the nearest carb.
that should be the max output on the carb (higher for high rpm engines)
and as far as computer chips, companys make upgrade chips for most cars.
6. SUPERCHARGER!!! many companies out there make good supers, most of
them run more than the average motorist would want to spend, but there are
some in reach for those people. check on prices i am not sure what
companies charge what. a 7 psi boost will give about a 45% horsepower
boost for an unmodified engine.
7. LIGHTEN!!! if you want to get off the line faster and run stronger,
lighten the load or redistribute weight. move the battery over the rear
end on a rw drive car. drop the ac if you don't use it or it is dead.
the ac can drop around a 100 pounds from the car if you get it all. if
your state doesn't do emmisions tests drop the cat and air pump. another
horsepower sucker is the exaust gas recirculation. CAP THE THING! a
small piece of strapping steel makes a great plug for the thing.
8. WRAP YOUR EXAUST!!! DONT I REPEAT DON'T DO THIS WITH YOUR HEADERS!
if you insulate your headers it will deterorate the condition of your
headers faster. standard iron exaust manifolds if wrapped in an
insulating matierial, cools the engine compartment and increases
horsepower. i would wrap the exaust for the entire engine compartment.
hope these help somebody out and good luck.
dc...@erols.com
Mmmmm, yum, yum. This is such tasty bait, I simply can't resist...
Possibly a student with too much time between classes?
On Thu, 8 Jan 1998 01:06:53 -0500, Conlan Adams
<ada...@river.it.gvsu.edu> wrote:
>okay, i have seen some really stupid crap on here. here are some basic
>soup up ideas for those who are new to the field.
Er, no... "Soup up." Now there's a term I haven't heard in a very
long time. Almost sounds like one can't hold down their clam chowder.
So Conlan, now that you've proclamed yourself the self-appointed
critique, judge and jury for this happy little group, what have *you*
got to say?
>1. NEW CAM!!! i wouldn't go past a 1/2 racing cam. the 1/4 is my
>personal choice because its hard to tell by the idle that its ther and it
>gives about a 20% hp boost on a non mod engine. that and they are
>normally easy to find and start under $100.
Ah yes, this confirms it. Definitely a child of the '50s and '60s. A
1/4 racing cam? Don't remember that particular grind real well. Is
this one where the lobes have started going flat perhaps? I'll bet it
would work real well in a modern computerized and emmissions
controlled engine!
>2. HEADERS! One of the biggest horsepower for the money ratios. lets
>your engine breath easier and faster. a cheap pair (most don't need to
>much more) runs around a $100 as well. also difficult to tell from sound,
>and you can hook them up to a cat and a stock exaust past that point and
>YES there is still a large increase in hp. personally i would also spring
>the extra $15-40 dollars for a glasspack or other flow through muffler if
>local laws allow.
Some truth here. Don't forget to budget that "$100" each year or two
to replace those rusted and burned out cheap headers. And plan on
replacing gaskets and retorquing the flange bolts every month or two.
Now I particularly like the sound of a $15 glasspack! You really
don't get to hear them very often anymore. It would be different.
But as long as we've got a period theme going, why not some
"smitty's"?
>3. AIR INTAKE! if your car is running without a hose from the fender (or
>other location) to the air cleaner, clear out all the unneeded matierial
>from the air cleaner (leaving enough to keep the air flowing ONLY through
>the filter). you will experience more horsepower (15-50 dependent on
>engine) and the same realitive gas milage. DOES MORE THAN K&N AIR FILTERS
>AND COSTS NOTHING unless you screw up and need to buy another air cleaner.
Wow, 50 hp from cutting up my aircleaner housing!!! I wonder why the
auto manufacturers haven't caught on to this one yet!?!? I'm going to
need those instructions though as I wouldn't want to screw up and have
to go buy another air cleaner!
>4. HOOD SCOOP! if you have a hose to your air intake, take it off and
>put in an air scoop. if you do what i listed above you will get more
>horsepower and the same gas milage. if you have no hose, put in a hood
>scoop anyways. cost is around $12 for a cheap abs plastic one in JC
>WHITNEY.
I'm simply overwelmed at this point. Should I mount it with pop
rivets or sheet metal screws? Do you think I ought to seal the seams
with duct tape??? And how about taping a rag over it when it rains?
>5. CARB! if you have a stock car (or comp chip) there is room for
>upgrading!!! a good four barrel is nice or 2 2 stage 2 barrels are nicer
>if you spread them out a bit. the more barrels the better allowing you
>don't go over board on cfms. a good way to guess is take the cubic inches
>of your engine and multiply by about 1.75 and shoot for the nearest carb.
>that should be the max output on the carb (higher for high rpm engines)
>and as far as computer chips, companys make upgrade chips for most cars.
This section is simply too technical for me to follow...
>6. SUPERCHARGER!!! many companies out there make good supers, most of
>them run more than the average motorist would want to spend, but there are
>some in reach for those people. check on prices i am not sure what
>companies charge what. a 7 psi boost will give about a 45% horsepower
>boost for an unmodified engine.
Will I need a bigger hood scoop? What should I multiply my engine by
to figure out how many barrels of cfm I'm going to need?
>7. LIGHTEN!!! if you want to get off the line faster and run stronger,
>lighten the load or redistribute weight. move the battery over the rear
>end on a rw drive car. drop the ac if you don't use it or it is dead.
>the ac can drop around a 100 pounds from the car if you get it all. if
>your state doesn't do emmisions tests drop the cat and air pump. another
>horsepower sucker is the exaust gas recirculation. CAP THE THING! a
>small piece of strapping steel makes a great plug for the thing.
This makes a lot of sense and is sure to increase the value of the
average car! As soon as I figure out what strapping steel is, I'm
going to go cap something in my motor.
>8. WRAP YOUR EXAUST!!! DONT I REPEAT DON'T DO THIS WITH YOUR HEADERS!
>if you insulate your headers it will deterorate the condition of your
>headers faster. standard iron exaust manifolds if wrapped in an
>insulating matierial, cools the engine compartment and increases
>horsepower. i would wrap the exaust for the entire engine compartment.
Wouldn't it be better if I just wrapped the entire engine? Maybe
something with a nice bow?
>hope these help somebody out and good luck.
Conlan, you've really provided an immense amount of entertainment for
today.
Thank you so much,
Don Kuhlman
Hampton Virginia
"Ralph, is that you..."
----
Spam Stopper: remove ! from email address
Jason Weir
classifing cams as 1/4 or 1/2 race went out with the 60's give us a
break and at least dont insult out intelligence and in turn making us
look ignorant by sending us out to comp cams or any other other big name
cam company asking for a quarter race cam...
Ralph Derickson
Must have been a freshman; a sophomore would have known better.
Kentucky (Using can opener on hood right now for scoop.) Ralph
D.Edwards
I wonder who is actually the child in this discussion. Ripping on
someone for posting there opinion should really increase the amount of
people who are willing to become involved with this group.
I agree on some of the points raised in opposition to the original
post, however an honest open discussion of each topic would have been
just as entertaining and easier for all to take. IMHO
--
D.Edwards
Paul Hubrich
For anyone who wants good, current info on cam selection, I found an
excellent tech page put out by Clevite Engine Parts.
www.engineparts.com/tech/cam.html gives a great deal of info on how to
select a cam based on the specifications and usage of your engine.
Gary
STUFF AND THINGS
I have never heard of a 1/4 race cam, but I have heard of a 1/2 race,
3/4 race and full race cams. When you work with Flatheads you hear
these terms quite often. I would suggest with any street engine that
your going to drive every day, look for a relatively short duration/
high lift cam. Roller cams can give you that. 5.0 Fords use that so
the bottom of the HP curve doesn't suffer.
Gary :{ )
To reply, Please remove the ! from my "E"Mail address
Flatheads Forever ___
dc...@erols.com
Ah gee, now I've gone and done it! A little light humor for the
holidays was all I was offering. I couldn't resist after reading the
opening line about how all the other stuff posted on this group was
"crap" this being the original poster's words, not mine.
Now, where are your salient points of discussion for each topic?
Grumpy Olde Guy
"Ralph, loan me that can-opener when you're done with it, will ya..."
Ralph Derickson
Can't. I dropped that sucker right after I got the hood scoop
hole cut out and one of them danged 950 Holleys swallowed it.
Good thing I cut in them new multi-angled, three-inch valves
so my BB can spit out.
Kentucky (Oh, heck. It took out the front end of a Taurus). Ralph
TLS
Gary wrote:
On Thu, 8 Jan 1998 01:06:53 -0500, Conlan Adams
<ada...@river.it.gvsu.edu> wrote:
>I would suggest with any street engine that
>your going to drive every day, look for a relatively short duration/
>high lift cam.
How high of lift can you go on a stock chevy 350?
Pat_Teaford
D.Edwards wrote:
> I wonder who is actually the child in this discussion. Ripping on
> someone for posting there opinion should really increase the amount of
>
> people who are willing to become involved with this group.
> I agree on some of the points raised in opposition to the original
> post, however an honest open discussion of each topic would have
> been
> just as entertaining and easier for all to take. IMHO
> --
> D.Edwards
I think what Don was pointing out was that Conlan doesn't have the
foggiest idea what's going on in the world of fast cars today, and yet
here comes Conlan telling everyone what they were talking about was
crap.
--
Pat (572 Cube '57 Chevy) (Tuned Port 350 RWD Z-24 Cavalier)
http://home.swbell.net/nitro57 (Home Page)
Remove Z to E-mail
dc...@erols.com
You can usually go up to .425 to .440 lift and no more than 210
degrees of duration at .050 lift if the valve springs are in good
shape. Look for something with a 112 to 114 lobe separation. I like
the some of the newer dual pattern grinds as well. Any more than this
will require other modifications such as headers, intake and carb,
head work, looser converter and lower rearend gears.
Don "the Grump" Kuhlman
Hampton Virginia
Enter Your Name Here
In article <34BAD57C...@juno.com>, tsm...@juno.com says...
>
>
>
>Gary wrote:
>On Thu, 8 Jan 1998 01:06:53 -0500, Conlan Adams
><ada...@river.it.gvsu.edu> wrote:
>>I would suggest with any street engine that
>>your going to drive every day, look for a relatively short duration/
>>high lift cam.
>
>How high of lift can you go on a stock chevy 350?
>
I have seen hydraulic tappet cams a little over .5 in. Mind you, stronger
valve springs would be good if you plan to rev it high. Also, gm and others
offer anti-pump up lifters which boost the rpm range. I built a stroked
350 for my truck, and with a .450/.450, 236 (total) duration cam, it idled
smoothly, and get this: 17-18 miles per gallon (highway) in a 4600 lb.
pickup.
StrokedSBC
this is truly a RIOT!!!!!!!!! ROTFLMAO!!!!!!!
For Sale: 1939 Chevy 2dr. coupe Street rod project. Mustang II front. Power
brakes, 9" Ford rear, 454 builder motor complete.
asking 2500.00 OBO (less w/out
motor)
56 Chevy truck: 383 TPI, 3:73 rear
NAZARRITH
Have you ever herd of any body replaceing the engine in a toyota? I have a 94
toyota that i would like to pull the engine and drop a small block 350 in its
place. I don't know if it can be done but i would like to try if i can find the
right mounts and a easy way to do it with out cutting apart the truck. If you
can help please e-mail me with any info you might have or any suggestions.
Thank You
Tony Evans