Words:
Last summer was so weak that by the end I
was fantasizing about Rincon and heavy winter
waves. Other than the excellent fall/early
winter run we had, I haven't had much fantasy
fulfillment. This little south was a nice
treat. We usually get one or two of these during
the winter but I'm usually very surfed-out in
late February. Not this year.
Being so far off-season there were usually only
2 or 3 of us out on the outside; at its peak just
as the tide began to drop the crowd was at maybe
10 people. Fast-dropping tide meant we got the
full range of conditions from reforms on the inside
at high tide to the sections between exposed rocks
at low tide. By the time I dried off and headed out
from the parking lot you could walk out across the
tidepools where we'd surfed in the morning.
I got to see my old board again! Last summer I
smashed the nose of my 6'6" roundtail into the rock
and sold it to one of the locals for $50. As I
paddled out, I wondered if I'd see him out there
on it and planned to ask him about it. Turns out
he was riding it today, nose repair and all, and
it was the best board he'd ever had. Kept asking
me if I had any newly smashed-up boards; I said
maybe at the end of this summer's season after I've
hit the big rock a couple times.
I probably could have used that board's speed on
a couple of the fast set waves towards the end
of the session when the reefs just started to
wake up. Fun A-frames started popping up and
there was more than enough for the few of us out
there. About an hour or maybe two after that,
the tide was too low and it was all over. It
was probably a C-grade swell as far as how good
Leo can get, but for the crowd and time of year
I won't complain.
Heard from my wife later that SurferBob was on
it up at C-Street and surprised (like apparently
most of the south season regulars here) that I
was surfing Leo.
Author:
Tim Maddux <tbma...@mac.com>
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dude, you should have called me!