FAQ:Home Espresso Machines (1of2)
Bogiesan
to the section on "cleaning."
A document by David Bogie (bogi...@aol.com) posted to the coffee
newsgroups on Usenet on or around the first of each month. This document is
usually found in two parts due to the limitations of America Online's Internet
Sphincter so be sure to download both sections.
SHAMELESS APPEAL FOR SPONSORSHIP:
I am looking for an angel to send me to the Specialty Coffee Association Of
America's annual convention in 1999. Fly me, feed me, house me, buy me a pass
and I'll cover the event for you or your publication.
Greetings Seekers,
In the March, 1996, issue of Fresh Cup magazine columnist Darcy Varney
quotes Phillip Janssen (author of the excellent "Espresso Quick Reference
Guide") predicting that, by the turn of the century, one-half of all American
households will own an espresso machine. This is a potential market of more
than 50 million units. Small wonder the appliance manufacturers of the world
are trying to get you to buy their products!
The alt.coffee & alt.food.drink.coffee newsgroups are often crowded with
questions about espresso machines for home use. The traffic in such inquiries
gets especially heavy around Christmas time. I post this FAQ to help fend off
this flood. Please read this document and do yourself (and the rest of the
newsgroup regulars) the favor of exploring the archives at DejaNews before
posting your questions. Take a field trip to your local library and check out
everything on the subject of coffee.
Past readers of this document have accused me, in jest, I trust, of
trying to terrify the innocent; of attempting to scare the dickens out of
espresso newbies by portraying the cuisine as a messy, inconvenient, and
potentially dangerous kitchen science. My intent, of course, is to demonstrate
that espresso at home can be as intimidating as your first souffle’ or as
wonderfully satisfying as a well-crafted omelet.
Read on. Well, stop reading this online and download it. Print it and
take it with you to your kitchen.
Before I answer your Frequently Asked Questions, allow me to inquire of
you, dear reader, about your reasons for wanting to add an espresso machine to
your stable of kitchen appliances.
Have a look around your kitchen and open a few cabinets. Where have you
hidden your feeble, ineffective, and trendy culinary baggage? Where are the
impulse purchases you have made late at night watching those stupid
infomercials. Where are the useless gadgets you’ve received from people who
don’t cook? Where are those devices that promised to make your meals easy,
nutritious, and delicious; the toys that promised to simplify the drudgery of
food preparation: yogurt maker, pasta extruder, ice cream system, food
processor, food dehydrator, bread maker, flour mill, juicer, waffle iron, corn
popper, sausage stuffer, on and on.
Look, I can save you five hundred dollars! Just be honest with yourself.
If your kitchen is filled with the ghosts of appliances usedbut once
andpromptly abandoned you do not need an espresso machine. You won’t like it.
You don’t even need to read this document. Save your money. Buy something
important like a new set of tires or take your squeeze out for sushi.
Here area a few more questions you need to answer honestly. Why do you
think you want an espresso machine? What do you know about espresso? Do you
want to make cappuccino like they do at Cafe Rialto or your favorite coffee
bar?
Or is espresso just an ingredient, merely the coffee flavoring to be blended
with hot milk and sweetened syrups? I don't mean to dismiss your tastes in
espresso out of hand but a cheap pump or steam-powered machine is entirely
adequate for your needs. You don't need to read the rest of this document. Make
a quick run to WalMart, find the Mr Coffee "expresso maker," put your $50 on
the counter, and you’re done.
Are you giving a machine as a gift? What makes you think the giftee wants
to be saddled with the upkeep of something you happen to think is a cool gift?
Are the kind of person who thinkgs giving someone a pet is appropriate? Does he
or she have the patience to care for an espresso machine and learn how to
operate it? Do you know that the giftee enjoys their espresso straight? If so,
are you prepared to spend the appropriate amount of money on a machine that is
capable of satisfying their passion for coffee or are you just looking for a
cheap way to impress them? Hey, get them whatever you can afford but save
yourself the embarrassment of their disappointment or disapproval and include
the purchase receipt so the giftee can return it without involving you.
Few more questions for you ... Do you love your espresso? I mean, REALLY
love it? Are you a fanatic about it? A hopeless snob? Do you piss offor
embarrass your friends when you all go out for coffee? Do you take your
espresso straight? As a double ristretto? Do you want that ephemeral taste
sensation accessible in the comfort of your own home? Do you want it whenever
you feel like it? If you have answered more than two of these uestions in the
affirmative you will need all of the information I am going to give you -- and
much morethat you must gather on your own -- in your pursuit of "espresso
perfetto," the perfect espresso.
Okay, now you ask me a question ... How weird is espresso at home? Go
hang out at your favorite coffee bar for a few hours. Find a comfy chair where
you can watch the action behind the bar at the espresso machine and then return
to this document.
Am I right? Espresso *is* "a messy, inconvenient, and potentially
dangerous kitchen science." So, now what do you think? Are you sure you want to
bring all that weirdness into your kitchen?
Bogie's FAQ CONTENTS (v6.1 December, 1998):
* * A. Opening disclaimer
* * B. Definition of ESPRESSO (True Espresso)
B-1. Definition of Crema
B-2. Variations on the "True Espresso"
* * C. Avoid The Steam-Powered Toy
C-1. The Unit and the Physics
C-2. If I had one, how would I use it? (contributed by David Turnbull)
* * D. The Miniature Collection of FAQs
D-1. Where should I shop for a home espresso machine?
D-2. What kind of machine should I buy for home use?
D-3. What kind of machine should I get?
D-4. Thanks. What's a "pump" and how much does one cost?
D-5. Uh, fine. Nice lecture. You didn't tell me how much a pump machine
will cost.
D-6. You're kidding! Five hundred bucks just for coffee?
D-7. Look, I'm on a budget. Isn't there anything cheaper?
D-8. Fine. You're not just serious about your espresso, you're a bit of a
snob about this espresso thing, aren't you?
D-9. What else do I need to know?
D-10. There's more? Sheesh. Like what?
D-11. Got it. Expensive hobby. Not a toy. Anything else you wanna tell me?
D-11-a. Cleaning the machine
D-12. What about caffeine? If I drink double shots of espresso regularly
won't I tend to be moving quite rapidly and won't my friends try to avoid me?
* * E. Closing Disclaimer
* * A. Opening Disclaimer:
I'm not in the coffee business.
I don't sell espresso machines and I don't get a commission from anyone
who does so I don't make any recommendations. However, I will entertain offers.
There are oceans of incredibly bad coffee served everyday in America.
Unskilled operators and innocent consumers mistakenly refer to this grunge as
"espresso." I'm on a mission to improve this culinary tragedy.
As a child I developed a taste for straight shots of espresso while my
parents were stationed at an Air Force base in Europe.
I take my espresso seriously.
Shoot, ask my coworkers. I'm insufferable on the subject. Few will go out
for coffee with me. I embarass them with the demands I make on the barista.
This FAQ document has been assembled after several years of experimenting
with dozens of home machines and reading everything on the subject on which I
can get my hands. In pursuit of the latest espresso information I’ve paid my
own way to attend coffee trade shows and conventions. However, I’d gladly
consider an offer from an underwriter or sponsor.
In the document that follows, I've tried to indicate where my personal
opinions cross the line of objectivity. I’ve tried to be thorough but you're
not going to learn everything about espresso and espresso machines here. You
will not find recommendations for brands or models of machines in this
document. No way, folks. You make up your own minds.
As a result of reading this document it is my sincere hope that you will
make your purchase decision wisely. Write your check only after you have
shopped carefully, asked difficult questions of sales people, and demanded
hands-on demonstrations of all the units you are considering.
I don’t make recommendations because my tastes and requirements probably
don’t match yours. Besides, the market refuses to stand still; new machines and
revisions to old standbys are entering the market all the time. I have no
problem informing the attentive reader which machine I currently own. Keep
reading, you'll find it.
There is a short Espresso Bibliography at the bottom of this document.
A separate document containing the fax numbers of dozens of home espresso
equipment manufacturers is posted every now and then to the coffee newsgroups
by Usenet participant and coffee roaster Barry Jarrett but it hasn't shown up
for many months so I guess he stopped doing it.
I enjoy receiving reader mail including suggestions on how to improve
this FAQ. I cheerfully ignore criticism so don’t bother. E-me:
bogi...@aol.com
Here we go ...
* * B. Definition of ESPRESSO:
Francesco Illy, in his magnificent coffee table tome "Book Of Coffee,"
calls espresso a romantic, remarkably aromatic, and complex liquid. It is at
once a solution of sugars, caffeine, acids, and proteins; a suspension of tiny
particles of coffee beans and minute bubbles of gas; an emulsion of oils and
colloids -- all concentrated into a small volume and covered with a light,
brown-colored foam known as "crema."
David Schomer, owner and operator of Espresso Vivace!, Seattle WA, calls
espresso "a polyphasic colloidal foam made by forcing pressurized brewing water
through finely ground, tightly packed coffee." That about sums it up.
Interestingly, Mr. Schomer is also known to say, "Forget espresso at home!"
A single shot of "True Espresso," as defined in the specialty coffee
trade, requires a precise weight of finely ground coffee (7 grams) to be
tightly packed (tamped) into a filter holder so that hot water
(not-quite-boiling water, between 195 and 205 F -- 88 and 92 degrees C; boiling
water or steam will utterly incinerate coffee's delicate essences), moving
under at least nine atmospheres of pressure (at least 130 pounds per square
inch -- or some unknown number of ergs, Newtons, Joules or kiloPascals), will
take 20 to 30 seconds to extract exactly one fluid ounce of the magical liquid.
When everything is working perfectly, espresso dribbles out of the filter
in a heavy stream displaying the consistency of warm honey. The Italians call
this “coda ti topo,” tail of the mouse. (I just love that.)
Failing to meet a single one of these critical factors -- or any
combination of possible blunders -- will ruin our espresso and produce insipid,
runny, bitter, burnt, or completely boring and consummately lifeless coffee.
Tragically, this ill-prepared swill is precisely what millions of Americans are
served at thousands of coffee bars everyday. Most folks don’t know espresso
from bear whiz.
America is a milk-drinking country. Most of our nasty espresso is used
secondarily as a coffee flavor added to a large glass of hot and sweetened milk
to produce the beverage known as the caffe latte’.
The incontrovertible source of the word “espresso” is lost in the
anecdotal history of coffee cuisine. The only thing we know for certain is that
its appearance as “expresso” indicates either ignorance or poor breeding.
While speed or rapidity are seemingly implied, once you have learned how
to run your machine you will understand the lie.There is nothing fast about a
double tall skinny orange-almond latte with extra foam.
The etymological source I cling to is an Italian word saying simply, “I
have just now made this with my own hands especially for you.”
B-1. Definition of Crema
"Crema" is the lovely layer of thick and effervescent foam that defines
well-crafted espresso. It is mostly carbon dioxide that has been liberated from
the plant fibers. The gas exists as a polyphasic foam of microbubbles. The foam
is the result of the hot brewing water passing through the finely ground coffee
particles under pressure.
Try this image: The teeny tiny bubbles found in naturally fermented
Champagne. The bubbles are always there but you can’t see them, the carbon
dioxide is hidden in the wine, kept under wraps by tremendous pressure. It is
only when the cork has been pulled and the wine is poured that a galaxy of
latent bubbles, suddenly liberated, tickles the nose and delights the eyes.
The presence of a thick layer of richly aromatic, reddish brown crema
indicates that all culinary factors were met satisfactorily during the
preparation of the shot. Espresso is all in the nose. The aroma of espresso
lives in the crema so swirl it around. Get your nose right down in there.
Inhale deeply.
Even exquisite espresso is embellished with ephemiral crema; the elements
that make it such a wonderful and integral part of espresso are lost forever in
the course of sixty short seconds. Do not delay when serving your best espresso
to your guests. Take care to preheat your demistasse to prolong the crema.
Crema was once the Holy Grail of the proud barista, the professional
espresso machine operator. Sadly, this is not the case these days. Contemporary
machines manufacture crema through the use of cunningly crafted flow
restriction doodads or squirt valves. These devices create an emulsion that
resembles crema in most physical properties and is probably indistinguishable
from the Real Thing. Beware. The presence of this illusory foam does not
necessarily mean the espresso will be any good. It merely indicates the
presence of technology.
Consider that there are more than 40 individual steps in the preparation
of espresso. Most of the steps, like harvesting, processing, and roasting,
don't involve the consumer directly and they are completely out of our control.
Screwing up any of the remaining steps will absolutely ruin your espresso.
Every shot is a chemistry experiment.
I prefer to call it alchemy.
Or even magic.
B-2. Variations on the "True Espresso"
B-2-a. Coffee Dose Weight:
7 grams for a single shot; 14 grams for a double shot; and more than 16
grams if you pull the exquisite double-ristretto shots at Espresso Vivace in
Seattle. (A matter of personal opinion, mind you, but I think Vivace's Dulce
Blend is probably the finest espresso you will ever drink on this little blue
planet. Sadly, not everyone shares this opinion. I don't know what's wrong with
those people's taste buds ... )
The amateur barista need not bother with such precision of measure or
mass. Fill the filter, tamp the coffee, top it off if necessary and tamp it
again. Leave about 1/4" space between the top surface of the coffee and the rim
of the filter holder so the water can disperse.
B-2-b. Liquid Volume:
A single shot of espresso is 1 fluid ounce and it is made from 7 grams of
coffee. Two fluid ounces comprise a double shot and this is made from 14 grams;
a bit less water if you like your espresso "ristretto." A double shot is never
more than 3 ounces. Don't let anyone try to tell you differently. They lie and
they would happily have you drink drek.
Most home machines come with instructions that are utterly worthless.
There may be valuable maintenance information in them somehwere but the recipes
are dangerously inept. The writers of these "directions" claim a single shot
from their machines should be 2 ounces. This is terrible advice. Absolutely
crazy. Who writes this stuff? Espresso is horribly over-extracted at that
point. No wonder your guests squish up their faces when they sip your
"expresso."
Here is a short list of a few factors contributing to the quality of
espresso: roasting style and degree of roast; blends of single source or
varietal bean; freshness and quality of the beans; fineness of grind; volume or
weight of coffee dose; tamping pressure and accuracy; water temperature; water
delivery pressure; water quality and softness; length of pour in seconds;
volume of water delivered to the cup in the time of the pour; and relative
humidity of the preparation environment. There is an astounding number of
diverse ways in which any of these variables can botch our espresso. The home
enthusiast has little or no control over most of these factors but she can
learn to compensate so that every shot is as close to perfetto as possible.
Learning how to cope with these myriad obstacles and the peculiarities of
your chosen machine will eventually allow you to produce, upon demand, in your
own kitchen, spectacularly rich and flavorful espresso.
* * C. Avoid The Steam-Powered Toy
* C-1. The Steam Unit and High School Physics
Steam-driven coffee makers, including the Italian-style "moka" -- a
slim-waisted, stovetop device and its numerous variations -- with a bit of
practice and attention to basic physics, will produce excellent, strong coffee.
These devices cannot generate the temperature or pressure factors required for
"true espresso." (Don't confuse moka pots with the popular espresso & chocolate
drink known in the United States as "Mocha," which should not be confused with
an Arabica coffee varietal imported from the port of Mocha.)
* C-2. If I had one, how would I use it? (This section of the FAQ is based on
material contributed by David Turnbull.)
If you own a steam pressure unit you can make good strong coffee that
makes excellent stock for iced coffee drinks and fake caffe latte. This
pseudo-espresso can be used just like real espresso in many mixed drinks, but
it’s still an imposter, a poser. It ain't espresso. No way, never gonna be.
Doesn’t matter what’s printed on the box or what the sales person claimed.
A burr grinder is a necessary tool in obtaining repeatable and satisfying
results. Any adjustable burr grinder will suffice. You’ll be experimenting with
different grind settings. If your brew is noticeably gritty, use a finer grind.
Are you clogging the brewer? This is a dangerous practice so use a coarser
grind.
Whatever the capacity of your steam unit, only the first half of the
coffee produced is worth drinking. Capture the initial liquid for consumption
and then replace the carafe with another heat resistant vessel and discard
whatever else flows, dribbles, or spits out. Some machines have valves that you
can close after brewing. Some only let you turn off the heating element or
remove the device from your stove.
When filling the filter basket with coffee, use the amount indicated in the
instructions. Don’t try to restrict the flow of coffee by overstuffing the
filter or tamping hard. Tamp or pack the coffee very lightly or not at all. You
do NOT want to test the safety pressure release valve. I've never seen one of
these rascals explode but the thought is sobering.
The device will produce a little more than one atmosphere before the
vessel is pressurized and water is forced through the filter contents. This
water is boiling hot and moving under steam pressure. You do not want the steam
to touch the coffee so figure out a way to prevent that from happening.
Steam-powered machines represent a severe burn hazard. Place the device
out of reach and let it cool down completely between uses. If your unit
produces steam for frothing milk be sure you know how to depressurize the
vessel before attempting to refill the reservoir.
* * D. Collection Of FAQs
Home Espresso Machines
v6.1 (December, 1998)
Posted roughly every four-five weeks to the Usenet coffee newsgroups.
* D-1. Where should I shop for a home espresso machine?
These days, many of us shop on the Internet (I mean, here you are,
right?), cruising Web sites, clutching our Visa cards, searching for the best
price on a machine about which we might know very little. This is a bad thing
... clearly a waste of time, money, and bandwidth.
Don't go looking for the lowest price when it comes to the purchase of a
serious culinary tool like an espresso machine. Find coffee experts who sell
equipment and patronize their establishments. This might turn out to be an
online emporium but give your local merchants and coffee shops a chance to help
you out, satisfy your curiosity, and earn your patronage.
There are specialty coffee shops in most cities that are owned and staffed
by people who make a living brewing and selling fine coffees. They may actually
roast their wares on the premises. Some offer home brewing apparatus for sale.
Presumably, these business people know their coffees and they know something
about the products they sell. Reading this document will prepare you for
dealing with these people. You will be able to tell immediately if they know
what they're talking about or if they are just yankin' your filter handle.
Friendly and helpful service you receive from coffee experts is important.
Certainly it's more important than saving a few bucks on your initial purchase.
It is unlikely you will find coffee and espresso experts at an online auction
site, a cut-rate store, an outlet mall, or a catalog showroom.
No coffee bars in your town? No kitchen specialty or department stores at
your nearest mall? If you’ll spend five or six hours on the Web or do some
research at your local library you will turn up many good mail order sources
for espresso equipment. But you'll still need some way to make your machine
selection other than hands-on experience. Equipment reviews exist but they're
usually out of date or hopelessly superficial. I’d like to change this sad
state of consumer affairs by ruthlessly reviewing a large number of home
espresso machines. All I need is an underwriter and a sponsor.
SHAMELESS APPEAL FOR SPONSORSHIP:
Are you in the coffee business? Interested in helping me review and
evaluate machines? Drop me some email or send me your machine.
If you read the coffee newsgroups on Usenet for a few weeks you’ll gather
some useful information and read some valuable opinions. You will also
discover some of the regulars are only posting thinly veiled commercials for
their retail Web sites. Watch out.
* D-2. What kind of machine should I buy for home use?
Look, it’s your valuable time and it’s your hard-earned money so let me
give you an elusive answer first: "Don't buy a machine on impulse and don't
base your purchase on price alone." Think about how you’re going to spend Your
Money. Relax and take Your Time to research the subject. This document is an
excellent place to start, if I do say so myself.
Making superb espresso is a culinary skill and anyone who tells you it’s
easy is lying to you. Anyone can make horrible espresso. Learning how to run a
high quality machine takes time and practice and you’ll go through several
pounds of coffee in the process. These can be complicated devices to master,
especially if your coffee-brewing experience consists of opening a can of
Folgers (gak!) and pouring water into a drip brewer. Making espresso is rocket
science compared to using your old Mr Coffee.
Many people who buy home espresso machines are surprised at the complexity
of the process and at how difficult espresso is to make consistently well. They
are disappointed they cannot make cappuccinos or latte’s that taste like they
came from their favorite coffee bar. And, if they have had the misfortune of
acquiring a lousy machine, making good espresso is impossible. Such a machine
will soon join the other abandoned appliances, stuffed into some dusty corner
of a forgotten cupboard.
* D-3. What kind of machine should I get?
Short answer: Buy a pump-powered machine.
Do not buy a steam-driven toy.
Shy away from "lever operated" machines unless you know exactly what
you're doing and what you're buying and why you want one of these devices. They
look cool, they will last a lifetime, and they are capable of producing
absolutely fabulous espresso. Because of their complexity they are not
appropriate for the beginner, in my opinion. Consider a lever machine only
after reading the books in the bibliography below, doing some hands-on tests,
and checking out some Web sites devoted to lever machines.
Most home lever machines are nothing like the classic systems once common
in Italian coffee bars and that gave rise to the expression "pulling espresso."
Units made by Elektra and La Cimbali are the only home lever machines of which
I am aware that use a cock-the-spring method of extraction. Other diminutive
home lever machines employ an entirely different mechanical principle to
extract the coffee in which you provide all of the pressure by leaning on the
lever.
The skilled and enthusiastic owner of a lever machine can achieve a level
of control over the quality of her espresso that no other style of machine for
home use can possibly duplicate. This capability will cost you, both in terms
of financial investment and time required to develop your skills. How did I
arrive at these conclusions? I’ve done the research for you by playing with
some of these cool machines and by reading the coffee newsgroups for years. The
owners of lever machines often drop in to ask the rest of us how to use their
beautiful new machines.
Lever machines start at $300 and climb to $1,200 depending on qualtiy of
construction and finish, additional features, the number and functions of
various gauges, and abundance or silliness of filigree.
For a fascinating look into the mind of an obsessive lever machine owner,
point your Web browser to
<<< http://www.math.columbia.edu/~bayer/coffee.html >>>
* D-4. Thanks. What's a "pump" and how much does one cost?
"True Espresso" requires pressure. At least 9 atmospheres; 130 pounds per
square inch. Pressure is needed to emulsify the oils and to suspend the gases
that will magically appear as the layer of fine brown foam known as "crema"
marking true espresso. Espresso without the crema is just strong coffee; most
likely, its absence identifies *very bad* strong coffee.
Steam machines only produce one to three atmospheres of pressure. Look,
any more than that and they'd blow up. (Do not over-fill or over-tamp a
steam-pressure device. This mistaken attempt to cheat physics by hampering the
function of the safety pressure relief valve can put your kitchen decor -- if
not your very life -- at severe risk.)
There are two popular styles of pump-driven machines: Those that heat
water in a pressurized tank resembling a small boiler and those that use some
type of fast-acting heat exchanger, often referred to as a thermal block.
There are good and bad features of both styles. Each family of machine has
its diehard fans. Find an expert salesperson at a well-equipped specialty
coffee establishment and engage in a discussion with her. Or tune into the
coffee newsgroups for a few months to read what the owners of these machines
have to say about their investments.
Pump Factoid: The relatively inexpensive home espresso machine uses a
motive device called a "reciprocating" pump. They're cheap, noisy, and produce
very high pressure under ideal laboratory conditions. Don't be fooled by claims
of ridiculously high pressure that appear in trendy graphics splashed across
the machine’s packaging. Your machine will not be operating in a lab. The
performance of these little pumps drops off rapidly under load in real-life
conditions.
Commercial espresso machines -- and a very few high end home units -- use
a far more efficient centrifugal or positive displacement water transport and
pressurizing system. The pump itself is larger than and costs more than most of
your basic home machines.
There are two other types of pump machines that have recently become
available on the consumer market: pod/capsule systems, and super-automatics.
Using aluminum capsules or paper "pods" containing pre-measured and
pre-ground doses of espresso-style coffees, these machines can take the tricky
process of making espresso and turn it into a smooth and efficient no-brainer.
I remain firmly skeptical about these gadgets. Capsules are expensive and
create a large amount of waste that may or may not be recyclable in your home
town. Pods are just as expensive and after trying many brands and styles I can
say without hesitation that the espresso from these systems sucks. It
absolutely sucks. Each manufacturer has created their own unique filter holder
so none of these systems are interchangeable, which is stupidly anti-consumer
and market-aggressive in a way I find disturbingly short-sighted. Besides, who
knows how long the coffee's been in those little dudes?
The great joy of owning an espresso machine is the freedom to experiment.
The enthusiast can purchase hundreds of different espresso coffees from all
over the world. One can alter the grind, dose, and tamp to make subtle changes
in the pour. The consumer gives up all of this fun when she buys a pod-based
machine. Indeed, the best reason NOT to buy a pod or capsule espresso machine
that you are spending your money on a closed system; forever at the mercy of
the single source supplier of incompatible consumables. Phooey.
Nonetheless, this type of machine is growing in popularity and you might
consider one carefully if convenience is your only criteria. The no-brainer
operation measn they can fit well into small offices and group homes. A recent
issue of Fresh Cup Magazine reported on pods or capsules from several highly
visible espresso makers including Lavazza, Starbucks, and Illy. This is
definitely a trend worth watching. But the coffee still sucks.
As a side note, commercial-grade pod/capsule machines are popular in areas
like ski resorts, health clubs, and national park concessions where customers
demand some form of espresso-based beverage service but where skilled operators
are scarce or impossible to locate.
Brief Interlude For Shameless and Gratuitous Promotional Message:
Does your company make or market a pod/capsule system? Are you interested
in changing my mind about your products? I invite you to ship me one of your
machines and a supply of your coffee. A group of espresso lovers will carefully
and objectively evaluate your machine and we’ll deliver our findings to
whatever forum you desire. Email me for my shipping address.
The other relative newcomer in the home market is the totally automated super
machine; the “espressobot.” Looking a little bit like R2D2, these units have
separate openings into which the user pours whole coffee beans, water, and
milk. At the other end is an orifice from which issue-eth espresso and
milk-based beverages. With varying degrees of programmability, automation,
complexity, and ingredient storage capacity or refrigeration, they start at
about $500 and top out around $2,000.
Reviews of espressobots that have been posted on the newsgroups are
encouraging. The owners of these machines are enthusiastic although they
grudgingly acknowledge the loss of control over their brewing methods. These
units are definitely gaining in popularity which means there will be more
choices in the near future, perhaps leading to lower prices.
Brief Interlude For Shameless and Gratuitous Promotional Message:
Once again, I cordially invite manufacturers or distributors of
super-automatic home espresso equipment to ship me sample machines for
objective evaluation by a group of espresso hounds.
* D-5. Uh, fine. Nice lecture. You didn't tell me how much a pump machine will
cost.
Good pump-driven home espresso machines are not cheap. There's a broad
range of prices, say, $100 to $1,500. Compare this to the cost of professional
bar machines costing $3,000 to well over $10,000. Quality costs. It's that
simple.
* D-6. You're kidding! Five hundred bucks for espresso?
Absolutely.
This is a serious kitchen tool you're thinking about buying, no less
complicated than a food processor and much more personal than a microwave oven
because your interaction with the espresso machine is immediate and intimate.
What distinguishes these machines from each other besides the price?
Quality of the materials and components, care of construction, and perhaps
fluctuations in international exchange rates.
There are more than 200 models of home espresso machines on the market
with more appearing every year. They are made by more than 30 manufacturers in
at least 5 countries. With so many options, how can you possibly make up your
mind without doing some serious research?
Here are some questions to ask yourself or with which you can pester sales
people:
How does the machine look? Does it fit your kitchen's decor? Do you care?
Does it feel like a tool or does it feel like a toy? Is the housing made of
plastic or metal? Does it look like it might break during regular use? Is the
filter group a massive chrome-plated, cast brass fixture that uses a pop-out
stainless steel filter cup (like my Rancilio Rialto) or is it just bent
aluminum with some holes poked in it? (Coffee writer for the Atlantic Monthly
and Coffee Journal magazines, Corby Kummer, considers a professional-sized
filter group essential on his home espresso equipment. Other knowledgable
coffee people on the newsgroups place no value in this feature. You see why
it's tough to depend on others' opinions? We can't agree on much around here.)
Is the machine heavy enough not to tip over when clamping in the filter group?
Do the buttons, switches and knobs look like they'll stay on for at least five
years? What parts can you replace yourself? The first thing to fail will likely
be the rubber gasket where the filter cup meets the pressurized brewing head.
Can you get to the gasket to replace it? How easy is it to keep the machine
sanitary and clean? (Espresso can be quite messy, see below, but your machine
must be kept absolutely spotless or your coffee will taste like crap and lower
life forms will quickly move in and call it home.) What accessories are
included in the purchase price? (Not many, these days see below.) Does the
steam wand look like it's part of a serious kitchen tool or does it seem like
it will fall off or easily break? Will you honestly be able to deal with the
monster the first thing in the morning? Or are you the type of person who needs
a cup or two of coffee just to get your mental gears in motion? (You want an
espressobot so start saving up for one now.)
Here’s what I evaluate upon encountering a new machine for the first time:
Exterior finish (I prefer unpainted stainless steel.); placement and size of
controls (Bigger and beefier is better than cheap and chic. I prefer real knobs
and buttons and switches instead of electronic touchpads.); size and weight of
filter holder (Bigger and heavier is better. I want cast brass or solid
aluminum.); size of water reservoir; capacity and ease of removal of drip tray
(Can it be removed without sloshing?); and the presence of a heavy duty
grounded electrical cord set.
I would not personally own a machine unless it had this list of features:
A cast brass boiler instead of aluminum; a brass steam valve that was carefully
machined to operate smoothly; a preponderance of brass and copper internal
tubing instead of aluminum or plastic; at least 1,000 watts of heating power;
and an exterior finish that reflects the same quality as the rest of the
componentry.
A few things that are marketing propoganda and make no difference
whatsover in the usability or performance of an espresso machine: cup warming
rack, built-in tamper, crema-enhancing filter holder, adjustable capacity
filter holder, milk frothing enhancer, and other over-designed or overly
complex mechanical subsystems (they break).
If I get a chance to demo a new unit I try to discern these things: how
long it takes to come to operating temperature; if the water will remain
reasonably hot during the length of the pour; how difficult is it to change to
steam mode; how long does it take to produce useable steam pressure; and how
long the machine takes to recover when switching from steam mode back to
brewing mode.
Here’s the Most Important Question: * Do you like the coffee it makes? *
How do you know? Insist -- I say, INSIST -- on a thorough demonstration of
the espresso-making capabilities of whatever machine you are considering. Why?
Besides the obvious reasons, here’s something you might not have considered:
Does it purr or does it make the windows rattle? You absolutely want to know
what kind of noise the little beasty makes.
Gracefully request a thorough demonstration of all the machine’s
capabilities and functions. Don't be intimidated by stuffy or hesitant sales
staff. You are, afterall, offering the salesperson an opportunity to
demonstrate his/her knowledge of the product and to close a substantial sale.
Okay, not every store will graciously serve you espresso from a demo unit.
Find the manager and ask, "Why not?" and consider taking your money (all $200
to $1,500 of it) elsewhere. Competent appliance sales managers will realize you
are a potentially serious customer and will try to accommodate your wishes.
Don't be a jerk about it, though. Ask for a demonstration only if you're
serious about a particular model.
I owned a $250 Krups Novo for more than five years. My Krups was a nice
little home appliance and a similar unit will probably fit your needs as a
first machine. The Novo performed admirably and dependably and while I was
saddened by its death I was excited about replacing it. It was succeeded by a
$400 Rancilio Rialto, purchased from Barry Jarrett at Riley's Coffees
(co...@stlnet.com). The Rancilio is a seriously formidable tool of
near-professional caliber and I love it. I wish I had invested in the Rialto
long ago. The difference in the price between these two machines does not
reflect the remarkably superior quality of the Rancilio machine.
* * * * Please download Part Two from this same newsgroup * * * *
David Bogie, aspiring boxmaker
hopeless espresso hound
Keeper of the MiniFAQ on Home Espresso Machines