WORLD SURF DAY - APRIL 3RD REPORT
Stephen Spence
OK, here is the report. Work has been very busy since I have recieved
the reports from everyone so I have not had time to produce statistics
yet - you know the type, average swell size = 6ft etc. I will endevour
to get something together VERY SOON.
I would like to thank everybody who participated in the World Surfing Day.
I hope we can make it a regular occurance. By the look of the stats, mostly
everybody was able to get wet.
I have given some awards for some of the stories :
The "I will not die until I get a Surf" award goes to the lads in Western
Victoria for there commitment - they travelled 600 kms for 1 hours surf. Go
Hard fellas.
The "I hope I don't catch some awefull disease" award goes to dude at Rat Point
- LA County, read the report.
The "I feel sorry that you did not get J-Bay at 6ft" award goes to Malcolme.
The "Go Hard on the Snow Slopes" award goes to Derek.
Thanks again and here's looking at you from the inside :)
The GNARLY Dude
====================
Date: 4/3/93
Time: 2:00pm to 4:00pm
Area: Sunshine Coast - Queensland
Weather: Sunny
Wind: onshore 5-10 knots
Air Temp: 25 degrees C
Water Temp: 20 degrees C
Surf: 3-4ft and mushing over
Comments: Well, not the most epic of surf sessions but over all fun.
=
Date: 4/3/93
Time: 10:00 am
Area: SIO Pier(North Side)
Weather: Sunny, Warm
Wind: None
Air Temp: 60 - 65 (Faren)
Water Temp: 60 (or so)
Surf: 2 - 4 ft waves(3-8 ft faces)
Comments: Ahh, my first time in the water in about
a month. Sheer heaven. The waves were really peaky.
They would form up slowly, then the bottom would drop
out and a wall would form, but occaisonally
you could connect through the sections.
A lot of drop, line, smack the lip type of rides.
Tod Critchlow - Scripps Institution of Oceanography
San Diego, California, USA
=
Dawn patrol at Makaha, Oahu, Hawaii was lots of fun today. Breaking down the
middle at about 3-4' (Hawaiian size; that's well overhead) NW swell, no
wind and clean. Water and air temp in the low 70's F.
Was bodysurfing on the outside, both rights and lefts, then moved inside
after the crowd showed up, and picked up the big rights on the reform
when the surfers fell off :)
=
Subject: report from airey, East Side Santa Cruz.
Surprisingly enough, classic conditions.
wind from northwest, so side shore on the southwest facing
Santa Cruz reefs.
swell is 5-6 feet, with a few monsters that had faces on the order
of 12+ feet.
water is cold like it always is. Wore a 4/3 and booties.
sun was out, with a few thin clouds.
tide was dropping and pretty much perfect.
Kelp a little out of control.
Crowd was not too bad, which is amazing.
Hey, man, send some mail back acking this note.
john m. airey ai...@asd.sgi.com (415) 390-5248
M/S 7U-553 Silicon Graphics, Advanced Graphics Division
2011 N. Shoreline Blvd., Mtn. View, CA 94039
=
Location: Carlsbad (North San Diego County) California
Time: late morning
Weather: sunny with almost no clouds, moderate wind
Surf: Today was the tail of a swell. Most sets broke in the 4'-5' (head high)
range with an occasional wave a couple feet overhead. Consistency was okay,
and crowds were moderate.
--
duke
=
water temp: warm enough to wear a spring suit (a shortie!)
location: 7th street reef, DEL MAR CALIFORNIA
time: 8:30 - 10:30 am
tide was low causing waves to back off, waves that were caught
lined up with vertical faces, size 3- 4 foot
to many weekend posers out in the water made for some minor
competition for waves but they usually don't know where to line up
time: evening session, 5:30 to after sunset
waves glassed off, upcoming tide pushed waves up to 5' foot
sets, giving fast overhead rides, some barrells were to be had
crowd conditions: when I came in at 6:45 pm, only me and a
sea otter (I snaked him !)
See ya
ERIC
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Eric J. Terrill e...@mpl.ucsd.edu
Scripps Institution of Oceanography, 0213 (619) 534-1085
La Jolla, CA 92093 - 0230
=
Subject: surf report for St. augustine, Florida, Usa, April 3rd.
surf : 1/2 to 1 foot shitty, sloppy, choppy, weak mush, that wasent even
worth getting wet for.
about waist high and VERY weak.
wind : 10-20 knots onshore from the North East (making it side onshore)
temp : water 64 degrees F, air about the same
really bad, crummy waves.
greg
g...@reef.cis.ufl.edu
=
Subject: World Surf Day - Western Victoria
"Never have so few travelled so far to ride a few waves"
Paul Whiting
April 3, 1993
I went down to Torquay Friday arvo April 2, to visit Lud and to catch
up with a few mates. They wanted some new boards shaped and I teed it
up with Lud. We checked the surf at Bells but it was about 1 ft and
onshore. I stayed the night at Lud's hoping that the wind might die off
and the swell might pick up.
About 10 am we went and checked the surf at Bells but all that had changed
was that the windswell had doubled in size so that it was now about 2ft from
the front.
We drove up and down the coast for an hour trying to find something worthwhile
to go out in and decided to call it quits. When we went back to Lud's
there was a note from his son Sean saying we should head down South.
Lud was apprehensive and figured that it wouldn't be worth it. The coast
down south faces the opposite direction to Bells and picks up twice as
much swell (as we were later to find out). If you imagine Victoria to
be shaped like a V then Bells is on the right hand side of the V and where
we were headed was on the left hand side.
Anyway it ended up that Lud, his brother Hans, his son Sean and myself headed
off at noon to go down South. We got down to Cape Otway and went to this
"secret spot" that Sean visited regularly and we were hoping that it would be
working. Even though I've got a 4wd and we had to drive through some farmers
paddock to get to the beach we still ended up having to walk for half an hour
to get to the beach. When we got to the top of the sand dune we were met
by a sight that warms every surfers heart. A number of peaks left and right,
with a nice cross/off breeze and no-one out. The only trouble was that the
more we watched the more uninviting it began to look. It was about head-high
to head-high and a half but the peaks were shifting all over the place and
the larger sets were closing out. I was keen to give it a try (in my
inexperience) but the Omachen clan were dead set against and Sean made another
call - we should travel further south to another one of his secret spots.
We then had a half-hour walk up this huge sand dune to go back to the car.
We drove the half-hour along the great ocean road to the turn off and then
had a 20 minute drive along another 4wd track 'til we came to the cliff
overlooking a little secluded bay. We could see the swell coming in to the
bay on the far side but you couldn't see the peak where you surfed.
We headed off down the track which seemed more like a maze thru the ti-tree
than a track and eventually we came to the cliff and I mean CLIFF!. All I
can say is that I'm glad that the cliff face was dry as you wouldn't be able
to get down otherwise. This thing was between 150-200 ft and on a 50-60
degree angle.
Anyway abseiling down was worth it cos at the bottom waiting for us was
a clean head-high left reef break with only 3 guys out. We paddled out
at the same time as a guy who was already at the bottom of the cliff and
another guy joined us later so that there was about 9 guys out. The only
problem was that we only got to surf it for about an hour as we got in the
water at 5pm after all the driving and walking that we had done and it got
dark by 6pm and there was no way known that you wanted to climb up the cliff
and have to walk through the maze in the dark. Sean had done it one time and
spent a couple of hours trying to find his way out.
The take-off was a bit tricky and Hans, Lud and I didn't get many waves
but Sean had been down here about a dozen times and was getting his share
of the waves. It was worth it though as it had been so long since I'd seen
decent surf and if you have to travel 2 hours to reach the coast then IMHO
you may as well travel any distance to get a decent wave. By the time I got
back to Melbourne that night I'd travelled about 600 kms for an hours surf!
Surf details for April 3
Location: Bells Beach, Victoria
Swell size: 1-2 ft
Wind: Onshore
Air: 20 C
Water: 18 C
Location: beach break, Cape Otway, Victoria
Swell size: 6-8 ft
Wind: Cross/Off
Air: 20 C
Water: ?
Location: left reef break, Laver's Hill, Victoria
Swell siz: 4-6 ft
Wind: Off
Air: 18 C
Water: 15 C
regards,
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Paul Whiting | CSIRO - DIT
Computer Scientist | 723 Swanston Street
High Performance Computing Program | Carlton 3053, Australia
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
E-mail: p...@mel.dit.csiro.au | Phone: + 61 3 282 2666
There's no problem a good surf can't fix | Fax: + 61 3 282 2600
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
=
Subject: World Surfing Day Report - Japan
TIME: 0800 - 0900 (JST)
AREA: "SHONAN", CHIGASAKI TO ENOSHIMA ISLAND, SE KANAGAWA, JAPAN
WEATHER: JUST BEAUTIFUL. WARM AND SUNNY, NOT A CLOUD IN THE SKY
WINDS: ON SHORE GUSTS 3-6 MPH
AIR TEMP: ? (COMFORTABLE IN A SWEATSHIRT AND JEANS)
WATER TEMP: ? (2/3MM SUITS W/ FULL ARM/LEGS)
SURF: 8 - 10 !!! INCH !!! FACES :(
FORECAST: NOT GOOD
COMMENTS: WELL I WAS TOTALLY PSYCHED FOR THIS WORLD SURF DAY...
UNFORTUNATELY MY SIDE OF THE PACIFIC WASN'T !!!! THE WEATHER
WAS GRAND AND THE CLOSER I GOT TO THE BEACH THE LOADER I CRANKED
MY WALKMAN AND THE MORE PUMPED UP I GOT..BUT WAITING FOR THE SIGNAL
TO CROSS THE STREET TO THE BEACH I COULD SEE ABSOLUTELY, POSSITIVELY,
NO PHYSICAL MOVEMENT OF WATER !!!!!!!!!!! I WONDER IF THE OLD COUPLE
STANDING NEXT TO ME AT THE LIGHT UNDERSTOOD ENGLISH...LET'S HOPE NOT !!
I MADE MY WAY TO THE BEACH, DROPPED MY GEAR, GOT COMFORATBLE, AND
WATCHED THE FISHERMAN CASTING OFF FROM THE BEACH AND THE FISHING BOATS
SCATTERED AROUND THE HORIZON AND THE PEOPLE COMING AND GOING ON THE
JOGGING/BIKE PATH...BECAUSE THERE DAMN SURE WERN`T ANY WAVES TO BE
RIDDEN !!!!! :( I DID GET A LAUGH WHEN I SAW 5-6 SURFERS FLOATING
AROUND IN THE WATER DOWN THE BEACH FROM ME...JUST FLOATING AROUND ???
OH WELL, THERE'S ALWAYS NEXT TIME, RIGHT ?!?!?!?!?!?! #8^0
kp
=
DATE: 4/3/93
TIME: 11:30a-2p pst
AREA: Rat Point (south end of Torrance Beach, LA county CA)
WEATHER: Sunny
WINDS: Coming up onshore
AIR TEMP.: 70s
WATER TEMP.: 65
SURF: 1-3 and mushy
FORECAST: more of the same
COMMENTS: A typical spring swell for around here, junky and gutless
but big enough for most of the hill to be breaking. Low tide was
at 12 and the beaches were closed out so I ventured out to Rat point.
People familiar with the area will guffah, but the rains have built
up a good sandbar out there, and it wasn't bad for MALing and that's
what I do. Two urban surfing notes: the rat parking lot was
closed for hazardous waste recycling (people dropping off paint, lighter
fluid, kitchen cleaning stuff) so I had to walk past a bunch of people
in white body suits loading up dumpsters. It looked like something
out of `The Day After.' Then, in the water I spotted a dead Garibaldi
(state fish of CA), and looked up to see Peewater Springs pumping
runoff into the water. I hope the bacteria count wasn't too high.
The surf stayed up all weekend, with people out at Hags (7-10 folks,
2-3 feet), Bluff Cove (15-30, 2-3), Indicator (5-10, 2-4), and the
Lunada Point (5-10, 5ft sets). Looks more disorganized today (Monday)
as the storm moves in.
=
Beach: Maroubra (Sydney)
Time: 8:30A
Weather: mixed, some drizzle, some sun
Swell: 3 foot north westerly, I reckon
Waves: head to 1.5 high walls
Water Temp: took the full suit, a bit too much, but it seemed cool,
there was a breeze blowing, and my spring suits pretty weak. Say 60F
(I still can't think in C).
Wind: Offshore.
Crowd: Fairly heavy, but you could find a spot.
When I got there, it was very crowded to the south (unusual) and
reasonable at the north, so I went to north Maroubra. It was a bit
closed out over the north reef so I sat to the south and picked off
some of the bigger sets. Sometimes they mushed out, sometimes they
closed out, but there were some fun ones to be had. Sunday was nicer,
with the sun out, and it's hard to remember which waves I had which
day, but overall it was okay.
It was interesting to be out there and thinking of the fellow surfers
who'd be out that day. I suspect I wasn't the first out (not that late
in the morning :-), but it was also weird to think that others'd be
surfing the same day but in the meantime I might be home and in bed,
asleep. Hope all had some fun.
=
LOCATION: Hawaii, Waikiki, Pops
TIME: 5:30 - 7:15 PM
WEATHER: Sunny (well, at least until the sun set at 6:45)
WIND: moderate offshore (almost sideshore), 10-15 mph
AIR TEMP: ~75 F (24 C)
WATER TEMP: ~73 F (23 C) (ahhhh.)
TIDE: approximately low tide
SURF: Easy 2-3 feet (back face), nice long walls. Not too
consistent until after sunset, when the three-footers
started rolling in almost nonstop.
CROWD: dwindled from 8 people to about three of us as it got dark.
COMMENTS: Really nice waves, nice drop. No barrels, but still fun.
Hope the south swell continues for a while (I was
out Sunday too, and it was about the same). This was
my 5th surf session in 8 days. Can't get enough!
Killer sunset, as usual.
I heard it was big on the North Shore, 8-10 at Sunset Beach.
Good luck on compiling the world surf report, and thanks!
Aloha,
Weeble
=
Place = Tynemouth, Newcastle, North East England.
Weather = Sunny/Cloudy 13C
Wind = Force 4/5 cross onshore
Swell = 3/4ft lined up northerly grolldswe
undswell
The waves were small but reasonable despite the cross/onshore wind.
Sunday was better but unfortunately even smaller
Keep Surfing
Martin.L.Sykes
=
Date: 3 April 1993
Time: 0730-0930 Pacific Time (California)
Area: Silver Strand, Oxnard Ca, USA
Weather: Clear, sunny
Winds: Calm, with slight onshore flow towards the end.
Air Temp: 65 F
Water Temp: 64 F
Surf: 2-4 ft backs, 6-8 ft faces
Forecast: more of the same
Comments: Water was a little bumpy due to the recent storms. A lot
of people in the water, though Silver Strand handles crowds very
well. Everybody got to ride if they sat in one place long enough.
There was a fast rip right next to the jetty. I never even had to
paddle getting out. I just sat on my board and let the rip do
the work. Overall a good day with lots of fun rides.
Danny
--
Danny Clark, PHD NSWC, Port Hueneme CA
da...@suned1.nswses.navy.mil
The Navy and I share some views, but the ones above are all mine.
=
1. Port Alfred (Kowie)
DATE: 3 April 1993
TIME: 4-00 hrs GMT
AREA: Kowie East Pier (Eastern Cape South Africa)
WEATHER: Overcast storm weather
WIND: Onshore 40 knots
AIR TEMP: 19 C
WATER TEMP: 23 C (Chilly - Can get anything from 12 - 28 C)
SURF: Fuck all. All slop!!!!
FORECAST: Still gale force east today (Monday). Wind should turn west
again on Wednesday. But it will take aleast 3-4 days to turn the swell
back to a west swell. Prognosis : no surf until maybe Friday or
Saturday. The west pier will have waves with the east swell and a north
wind Could get some 8 + foot waves here if the wind holds north for a
while.
2. J Bay
DATE: 3 April 1993
TIME: 6-30 hrs GMT
AREA: J BAY SOUTH AFRICA (Who does not know this spot !!)
WEATHER: Overcast and stormy
WIND: Onshore 35 knots
AIR TEMP: 20 C
WATER TEMP: 21 C
SURF: Fuck all. All slop!!
FORECAST: As for above
When the wind turns there are going to be some cooking wave to be had at
BRUCES BEAUTIES. Perhaps up 8 foot!!! BRUCES works on a east swell with
a west wind or a gaint west swell with a west wind. Maybe go down to
BRUCES this long weekend. But its going to be super crowded if less than
6 foot. But it is still alright !!!!!
PS J Bay is still fun at 3 foot I suppose. But at 6 .... man.
MALCOLME LOGIE - Department Biochemistry & Microbiology
Rhodes Unveristy, Grahamstown, 6140, RSA. Internet: mi...@hippo.ru.ac.za.
Telephone 0461 22023 x 441
(HARD CORE IS DEEP INSIDE)
=
Date: 3 April 1992
Time: Afternoon session
Area: Atlantic Beach, Emerald Isle, North Carolina, East Coast, USA
Weather: Sunny, beautiful
Winds: East, North East
Air: 65 degrees F.
Water: 50 Degrees F.
Surf: Chest-high on bigger sets, mostly waist high, disorganized
Forecast: Rain and NE blow moving in.
Comments: Many of the older crowd - myself included - out for a
day in the sun. First bikini of the season spotted. Good day
to hang out with brahs!
Ken Strayhorn
=
DATE: April 3rd, 1993
TIME: 7:00 am - 12:00 noon
AREA: Zeros / County Line (Southern CA)
WEATHER: Bright and sunny, a little smog
WINDS: Very light (~3 mph) offshore
AIR TEMP.: 60 F to 72 F at noon
WATER TEMP.: 64 F
SURF: 2-3 ft West swell with sets averaging head-high
and some overhead peaks
FORECAST: It's supposed to pick up on the 5th and 6th,
going as high as double-overhead for most of the Southern
California coast.
COMMENTS: A great day; if only the surf were a little larger,
and the winds a little more offshore. Waves tended to be thick
and crumbly, with the occasional outside smoker walling up into
a large drop. I made more late takeoffs on Saturday than I ever
have before. One particular wave springs to mind: I'm sitting out
in the lineup when this popup outside peak looms in front of me. I
frantically turn around and start paddling, and each time I look back
it just gets bigger and meaner. Right as its about to break on my head,
I pop up and grab my rail as I scream down the face. As I come through
the bottom turn in a deep crouch, the wave sections in front of me and
throws a lip right at my head. I try to duck and fail miserably, and my
mouth, nose, ears, and eyes are immediately full of salt water. Somehow,
I manage to stay on my board and pull under the lip for a nice tube and
come flying out the other side into the brown shorebreak with a huge, goofy
smile on my face. My nose is still dripping.
-tim
=
Subject: World surf day report from D.Wojciech
DATE: April 3rd, 1993
TIME: 8:30 am - 2:00 pm EST
AREA: Carroll Valley, Pennsylvania, USA
WEATHER: Early morning overcast with light snow.
Warming up and clearing to partly sunny.
WINDS: West 10-35 mph.
AIR TEMP.: Early 34 degrees F, warming to about 50 degrees F
WATER TEMP.: 33 degrees F (0-1 degrees C)
SURF:
Wave height peaking out at about 600ft, with the average set
coming in at about 450-500ft. Pretty mushy and bumpy, though
plenty of speed on the steep sets. Some of the
smaller waves were really slow, couldn't make it near the
shoreline without stopping and sinking. Eastwind was goin'
off big time. Lotsa bumps and jumps, but good speed.
Blue Streak was dropping straight down! About 200ft face!
Made the drop without bailing and I was cookin. Almost
plowed over some grommets though. Usually the break
is pretty good at Strata, but it was TOTALLY flat! Bummer.
I was pulling off some great manuevers. Lots of nice air
180s and a few 360s. On the face 360s and 180s were coming
left and right, usually on a smooth wave. Don't wanna
try that on a lip! Had a few wipeouts, nothing too major.
Most only kept me down for a few seconds before I was
back up. Had some nice grabs, gettin the cycle in. Nose,
tail, frontside, backside, stalefish. A little jibbin
off some debris in the water, a log and barrel were the
victims. Big crowd. About 300-350 out. Lots of
plankers. Most were pretty cool though.
FORECAST: FLAT! Current weather trends predict to 99.9% accuracy
that there will be no surf here for about the next 8 months.
I guess I'll just have to hit my summer breaks soon!!!
COMMENTS: World Surf Day was a great day for me to end a fun and
great season here this winter. Had about 15 cool sessions
on the East Coast this winter (conditions were pretty
good, esp towards the end of the season), but I am excited
to put my snow surfing board in the closet and pull out my
Island Classics for hopefully a great spring/summer/fall
of 93!
L8tr,
Derek
=
DATE: 4/3/93
TIME: 5-7am
AREA: Blacks (La Jolla)
WEATHER: Clear, nice clean sunrise
WIND: 0-6 knots ENE (gentle offshore)
AIR TEMP: probably 60 deg F
WATER TEMP: about the same
SURF: 3-5' (backs), but a little mixed up
FORECAST: Surf-sham forecasts double overhead+ building tonight...their
track record hasn't been so hot this past winter.
COMMENTS: Blacks has had problems with rips and shifting sand bars
all winter long. There were decent size sets coming in,
but the rip-tides along with some bump caused by the early
morning high tide kept it from being epic. Some nice grinding
inside left barrels could be had at south peak, while north
peak was wedging-up and a little more makeable.
Part II:
DATE: 4/3/93
TIME: 10pm-midnight
AREA: Newbreak (Sunset Cliffs, San Diego)
WEATHER: Clear night, moon a few days before full.
WIND: None
AIR TEMP: probably 63 deg F...pretty warm.
WATER TEMP: maybe 60 deg F.
SURF: Solid 4' (backs) and absolute perfection.
FORECAST: Who cares.
COMMENTS: Best, although not the biggest surf I've had in weeks.
Newbreak is a long hollow right point break, and the
daytime crowd can be pretty rough...you'd better hope
you recognize someone when you paddle out on a good day.
Tonight's surf was perfect...nice long barrels on the
set waves, and only me and my buddy out! Smile.
Hope this gets to you on time...I think that world surf day is a great
concept, but it you make in Dec. or Jan. or Feb. next year, I may have
some really exciting things to report from Blacks.
Keep Surfing, Steve
=
Hi Stepahen,
I know we are supposed to file a report in format and I'll do
that below, but I ended up checking out almost the whole island on
Saturday looking for killer surf. So it doesn't exactly fit well into
the report format.
We were planning to get an early start, but ended up leaving
to go surf at 8 am. Then we went by a friends house to steal him, but
his S.O. shut that plan down. We finally checked our first spot at
about 10 am. There was a high surf advisory, so we had gone to the
Westside. It was clean about 3-4 feet, but not really working right
at Maile point. We continued driving out to Makaha which was a clean 3-5
with about 10 billion guys out! Aha, we said maybe Free Hawaii is killer...
Well, it was OK, but again very crowded for the quality and quantity of surf comcoming through. Now, we decided that Maile point was the best so far so we drove back to Maile point, but it just was not that great.
My boyfriend had gone out to the North Shore, since he thrives
on bigger surf. So since I wanted to report an unreal surf sesh, I
convinced Mark that we should go check out the North Shore. We had surfed
out there on Friday morning and it had been huge, but we thought it had
dropped enough to be fun.
Error! When we drove over the the last hump before getting to
Country, we saw waves breaking at Avalanch and realized it had actually
gotten bigger than the day before. The only spots with people out were
inside Puena point which was about 5 feet and pretty clean, Sunset
which was at least 8-10 feet with bigger sets, and Vland/Freddies where
we watched my boyfriend paddle for about 10 minutes and go nowhere.
The neet thing was the wind surfers out at Backyards since the
trades were blowing 20-25. Those guys were riding waves that were taller
than there masts!
Anyways, by this point we were totally bummed, so we headed back to
town, picked up my short board and went out at:
date: April 3rd, 1993
time: 3pm
area: South shore O'ahu, suicides and Tongs
weather: Sunny with some high clouds
winds: 20-25 knot trades (pretty strong side off shores)
airtemp: 28-30 C
water temp: 26 C
surf: 2-3 feet, occasional head high sets
forecast: increasing south swell
comments: I kept thinking about eveybody else surfing in cold water
and even worse surf so I had a great time. I actually almost pulled
a floater, but I didn't quite stick the landing.
Great idea to have a Net surf. Thanks!
Aloha,
Dawn
=
date: 4/3/93 (surprise)
time: hit the water at 6:00am
area: surfed "crabs", one of a series of small reefs in Cardiff, CA
wthr: clear sky
wind: very light offshore as the sun rose, basically ideal conditions.
air: don't know, probably about 10-15 deg C. (50-60degF.)
H2O: about 16-17 deg. C. (61-63 deg. F)
surf: swell was about head high, with largest sets about 1.3 times.
measured from the back it would be about 4-5 real ft, or 2-3
ft for the image conscious. direction appeared to be primarily
from the west with some north in it
cmnts: surfed crabs because most people don't. crowd of 15-20 at
pipes, 100 yds (meters) to the north. I was alone most of
the time with one other occasionally. Crabs is not real
predictable or relaible, but I got a few good waves before
getting launched on a left that broke my cord and washed the
board up on the cobblestone beach. Ouch.
Have fun collating.
Jim
=
DATE: 3 Apr 93
TIME: about 4pm
AREA: East Corrimal, NSW, AUST
WEATHER: Sunny
WINDS: Nth, slightly onshore - turned cross shore
AIR TEMP: 25 deg C
WATER TEMP: Warm
SURF: SE swell, about 1.5 x o'head. Pretty clean.
SURFCRAFT: Bodyboard (me), surfboard (Jim).
COMMENTS: A welcome birthday present! At long last we had some decent surf.
A heap of people out but as its a fairly large beach break there was room for
all. The waves were fairly steep, with one bbder literally flying (and
screaming) quite a big drop. My main thrill, was taking off on a rapidly
rising wave, with huge acceleration, skimming down the face to be eventually
trashed 30m down the line. Have just got to get that rail in properly ...
Philp
--
Philip Secker, Elec & Comp Eng. University of Wollongong, NSW 2500, Australia
=
DATE: April 3, 1993
TIME: 3-5pm PST
AREA: Fort Point, San Francisco, CA, USA
WEATHER: Cloudy, windy and cold.
WINDS: Prevailing north at 15kt (although sideshore locally)
AIR TEMP.: About 60
WATER TEMP.: About 55
SURF: Big and clean, 4-6ft swell - sets with up to 12 foot faces.
FORECAST: Swell will be dropping - Clear with continuing north winds.
COMMENTS:
Ended up surfing some medium big lefts at Fort Point, in San Francisco:
Huge swell pounding the Northern California coast both Friday and Saturday.
I checked Mavricks in the morning, and watched 3 guys pick off waves from the
channel just south of the peak. Looking through my 30X spyglass it looked
to be about 20-25ft faces on the sets. Not many people out up the coast,
with Ocean beach peaking way outside, and no way to get out. I'd managed
a pretty decent session Friday at Ft. Point, below the Golden Gate, on
the ebb, so I headed for there. Got there late and it was already pushing
pretty hard. I just missed Ragnar, my brother, who left before I got there.
On a pushing tide, it tends to break way around on the outside of the point,
under the bridge, and sweeps across the inside peak. There was almost no one
on the inside, and about 15 guys on the outside point. I waited inside and
caught one lone peak right at Rhino Rock, then gave up and paddled under the
bridge to jostle for a set wave. Caught what looked to be a little followup
wave after a set, but turned out to be a nice lined up bowling 8 foot face.
I got a couple of good gyrations off the top, the dug my frontside rail for
a hard cutback and smash the whitewater for a snappy rebound. Getting a bit
close to the inside rocks, I leaned back and shot my board over the edge of
the face, for a semi-sloppy dismount. That was the only outsider I caught,
but I did get a couple more in the middle, and a nice drop on a tall hollow
insider. I stayed out till the push pretty much killed it, at around 5:30pm.
-Leif
=
DATE: Sat 3 April 1993, World Surfing Day
TIME: 9:30am to 1:30 pm, Personal Record 4 hours
AREA: Id tell ya but id hafta kill ya, Jaws Point
WEATHER: Filthy Spring Sunshine
WINDS: Light Onshore, you could still lite one in the lineup
AIR TEMP.: ?55-60F?
WATER TEMP.: 55F
SURF: Full On Fast Sucking Peak Swells, Overhead
FORECAST: weather radio said 11 foot swells
COMMENTS: 2 many kids out during Easter Break, one broken
nose, but the size kept most of them on the inside.
The waves were much faster than normal, i figure the
swell must be SW and they didnt wrap around the point.
when i was done, i sat down on the beach to watch the
spot i left getting very hollow, the best man was getting a
long deep tube ride with a strech five. Now i started
screaming, and he did it again, tube and hang five for
the full wave, fast screamers at that. Then he came in
and said he got 4-5 rides like that. i believe him if
he says 5x5 in the tube, OXOMOXO!
Nancy Jean
Sewerside, California
=
DATE: 4/3/93
TIME: all day...
AREA: California->San Diego->La Jolla->Windansea->my front yard :-)
WEATHER: sunny
WINDS: 5 MPH onshore
AIR TEMP.: 70 F
WATER TEMP.: 62 F
SURF: 2-4 ft. (backs) and consistent
FORECAST: I can feel summer knockin...
COMMENTS: A typical Windansea day. High tide was the best, low tide was
too mushy. Not very crowded for a Saturday though. I wonder where
everyone is? I hope the rest of the world got in a good day of surf. I could
almost feel that international good vibe influencing my cut backs.
Shaka all,
Garrett
=
DATE: Sat., April 3
TIME: Mid-morning till late afternoon
AREA: somewhere north of San Francisco
WEATHER: Rainy
WINDS: Light northwest
AIR TEMP.: 50s
WATER TEMP.: low 50s
SURF: overhead to double overhead
FORECAST: none
COMMENTS: strong current, a little bumpy, no crowd, powerful
One of the beachbreaks was huge but impossible to get out
Killer camp/surf trip
-steve
=
DATE: 4/3/93
TIME: 8:00 am to ~11:00 am
AREA: Del Mar California, between 15th and 11th Streets
WEATHER: Sunny, awesome
WINDS: almost none
AIR TEMP.: 60 - 70 deg F
WATER TEMP.: 62 deg F
SURF: 3 to 6 ft faces, mixed up swell, not consistent
tendancy for the bigger waves to be closeouts
FORECAST: ?
COMMENTS: Had some fun but the waves were kind of weird and
hard to predict, the bigger waves had a really
fun, steep drop, but they were usually closeouts
so you either had to get out fast or get slammed.
Sunday 4/4/93 went to Pipes (Cardiff area). The
waves were 4 to 7 ft faces and much more consistent.
The big ones still had a tendancy to be long, walling
closeouts but it was better than Saturday. Caught
a few fast, shoulder high rights on my 10.0 ft
Eaton Zinger 4 fin bonzer.
=
DATE: Sat 3 April 1993
TIME: 09.30 am.
AREA: Scarborough Beach. Western Australia.
WEATHER: mostly overcast with a few sunny spells.
WINDS: 15 knots onshore (SW)
AIR TEMP.: 22'c (and no Im not going to convert it to F')
WATER TEMP.: cold?
SURF: 2-3 foot onshore slop but good fun to grovel in.
FORECAST: Swell increase is on the cards as a cold pressure systems moves in.
COMMENTS: Well worth the effort because we all got wet and had a great grovel
(including a demolition derby with some of the older boards) in smallish waves
which suprised the crew with the occasional head-high wave of quality.
Glenn.
=
DATE: 04/03/93
TIME: 8:00 to 10:30 am
AREA: The Patch, Bolinas CA (No Cal)
WEATHER: Sunny
WINDS: Slight offshore
AIR TEMP.: 60s
WATER TEMP.: 55ish
SURF: Chest to head high faces, clean
FORECAST: Worse
COMMENTS: The Patch put on quite a show for World-Surf-Day.
It's usually small, mushy, and inconsistent.
=
Just my follow up to let you know how my surf was on Saturday April 3. I
surfed Pleasure Point in Santa Cruz late in the afternoon until almost dusk.
The tide was too high in the morning, & went out to a minus tide until late
afternoon. Pleasure's is best to surf on a low/incomming tide. I took out my
baby gun, but wish I had taken out my short board, because when I got out in
the water there were enough over head sets to enjoy my smaller board on. I
did have alot of fun though. This is a right hand wave with several different
take off peaks, so you get a better chance to jocky around to get your share of
waves. The conditions were as follows:
The Weather was nice (between 70 & 75 degrees). The water was cold but glassy.
The swell was comming out of the Northwest and was fairly consistent. There
was a good size crowd, but if you worked hard you could catch somewhat your
share of waves (there's never enough waves to go around on a crowded day)!
The occasional over head set kept you on your toes. The majority of the waves
were small waist to head. All in all it was worth being out in the water.
Looking forward to seeing your summary on everyone's postings.
Take care,
Tom Godsoe
--
Stephen Spence |
CITEC |
Australia | "Regardless of Risk"
612 07 227 6969 |
sgc...@citecuc.citec.oz.au |