Regal Project - General
Gary Steed
I am in the process of restoring a 1935/36 Regal Angelus resonator
guitar that I've had laying around for many years. This is the first time
I've attempted anything like this and look to the experts here for advice.
Since I have so many questions, I'm posting separate articles to help
keep the responses focused. I've put together a web page with pictures
of what I have and need help with. It can be viewed at
http://members.cruzio.com/~steed/regal.htm
Thanks!
Gary Steed
Gary Steed
"Gary Steed" <st...@cruzio.com> wrote in message
news:arcb4...@enews2.newsguy.com...
Gary Steed
I wanted to give an update since I haven't posted anything in a while.
I finished the neck and installed it. It came out pretty good, relatively
straight and flat. I spent some time dressing the frets to level them and
put a crown on the tops. They still need a little work with a few high
spots that I noticed after I got it under string tension. I'm taking that
part slow and easy since it can't be easily reversed if I mess up.
I sanded down the saddle a little to put new string slots in it since the
others spread the strings out a bit. I made new V groove slots that
are spaced the same as the tailpiece holes, which now makes it the
same as my other flattop guitar.
The nut needs to be replaced. The one that was on that neck was too
low as was the one from the original neck. I have it shimmed up right
now but that's a short term fix. I was planning on a new bone nut and
saw a recent article recommending the same.
I am surprised with the sound. More tone than I expected it to have
based on playing a similar model at a guitar shop. I play fingerstyle, not
slide, with bare fingers and a thumb pick. I think this helps the tone a
bit.
The tone seemed to get better after a few weeks from the time I put the
cone/coverplate on and first got the strings on. I assume it's from settling
in under tension. Is this normal? It made me wonder if when changing strings
if I should replace them one at a time to keep tension on the bridge/cone.
One thing I've been curious since seeing some recent discussions on the
topic is supports. This one didn't have any. The cone sits on a shelf that
is attached to the top. Nothing touches the back except the sides, neck
block and tail/endpin? block. Should I add supports? If so, what is the
best method/material for doing this and where should they be placed?
I was told by Ken Brown that his has a support under the top at 12
o'clock. I was thinking of adding one since I can see the top dip a bit
at that point.
All in all, I'm pretty happy with the results. It feels good to have
resurrected
this guitar and made it playable again. I appreciate the suggestions and
encouragement that I've gotten from many people. I've updated my web page
with some new photos. As always, I welcome any advice and comments.
http://members.cruzio.com/~steed/regal.htm
Cheers,
Gary
(remove "YOUR.SHORTS" to email)
Mike Dotson
As to your questions:
Yes resonator guitars tend to improve in tone/volume over a few days or even
weeks when first strung up.
You could make up a couple supports if you'd like with this one warning that
because the top is settling somewhat they could put undue stress on the back. I
don't know how thick the back of that guitar is or how it is braced. Guitars
built with this 'soundpost' design have special back bracing made to take the
load so proceed with caution.
If you do decide to try it I think some National-style ones would work, use
1/2" dowels with 2" dia. 'biscuits' made from 1/4" plywood. (look like upside
down 'T's) These sit against the back and the dowels are glued to them and are
glued to the ring at the top. I'd put in 4 to spread the load.
You're right to string one and two at a time, keeping tension lessens the
chance for buzzes.
Gary Steed
I think I try the supports and see what difference it makes. If nothing else
it should help level the top. It's not bad but noticable if you look across
it.
I think I have some 1/4" plywood and dowel rod that I can use.
I'll probably wait 'til my next string change to try it.
Thanks!
Gary
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"Mike Dotson" <ter...@aol.comNoSchpam> wrote in message
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Tony Done
strictly necessary, but they won't harm. The ones I made for the Epi
"Biscuit" (also wood) consist of a small foot, about 3/4" deep, with
threaded brass rod with nut sitting in it. The rod could be jacked out to
the correct height with its nut. I used three under the soundwell, one at
the front and the other two equidistant from it. This was chosen on the
basis that they are the points where the soundwell receives least support
from the guitar sides. A fourth one is located under the fretboard
extension. All are held in place by a dab of white glue at the side of the
foot.
Tony D
"Gary Steed" <st...@YOUR.SHORTScruzio.com> wrote in message
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