Battery Replacement
ricardo
and finding out that the car won't start)? Are there any telltale signs to
watch out for? I have a '95 Previa LE S/C with the original battery. Thanks
in advance! Please reply to the group.
Bruce Bergman
wrote:
The battery in your car might actually date back to late '94, I'd
strongly suggest changing it out soon just on the basis of age, it's a
senior citizen as batteries go. Six years is about the best you can
expect, automotive batteries are designed to be wear items. Buying a
longer-warranty battery just gets you one with more space below the
plates for shed lead sponge plate material to pile before it builds up
and shorts out a cell. The phone company can get 25 years out of a
string of batteries, but they only get used hard once every few years
(if ever) during long power failures when the generator plant won't
start, and they are stationary. Yours gets used hard every time you
start your car, and when you get bounced around, it does too.
Signs are that the cranking speed drops off after the first few
seconds, when you are stopped at a light at night the voltage drops
lower than normal, the horn sounds funny with the engine off...
--<< Bruce >>--
--
Bruce L. Bergman blCHURRObergman@ NOearthSPAMlink.netEVER Remove the caps.
Troubleshooter - Electrician, Phones, HVAC, Plumbing,...
'Current'ly with Westend Electric, Agoura, CA 818/889-9545
WARNING: No Unsolicited Commercial E-mail is EVER accepted.
John LaRough
your battery is up to spec.
Rules about batteries:
1) Bigger IS better. My Toyota calls for a 27F (monster size). Almost
every shop will try to pop in a 34 or some other lame Fiesta sized unit and
get you out the door.
2) Heat kills batteries. The knock-out punch comes in the winter when you
need the CCA.
3) CAs (cranking amps) ain't the same as CCA (cold cranking amps). Its a
marketing ploy. You really can't get enough CCAs (rule 1 applies big-time
here).
4) Keep terminals clean and in good shape. Don't be afraid to replace
them when you suspect them of not working properly. They're cheap and don't
exactly give you many visual clues they're failing.
5) Most people say the DieHard Gold is the best lead acid battery on the
market. It's $80 but worth it.
6) The best battery on the planet (my opinion) is the "Optima". Sells for
around $120. Completely different technology.
http://www.optimabatteries.com (don't work for them)
7) An alternator not up to spec can eat batteries.
8) Buy the best you can find. Only the rich can afford cheap batteries.
John
ricardo <rick...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:P8ma5.4008$%P.32...@bgtnsc06-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
John
Where can one find a battery blanket -- or heat shield? You see it on some
cars but not others.
Rick Jones
John, I ordered one for a 99 Camry for my Tacoma, its a sheild that is
foam insulated, for just the reasons you mentioned! ;-)
--
*** Rick Jones ***
Toyota Chat Room!-- http://members.xoom.com/ssauer40/chat.html
Toyota Master Diagnostic Technician/ASE Master/L-1
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"SECOND PAGE" http://pweb.netcom.com/~ssauer40/second.html
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What it takes to be a modern day liberal democrat!
You believe that the AIDS virus is spread by lack of funding; trial
lawyers are selfless heroes and doctors are overpaid; you believe guns
in the hands of law abiding Americans are more of a threat than nuclear
weapons in the hands of the Red Chinese; global temperatures are less
affected by cyclical documented changes in the sun and more affected by
SUV's; you believe business creates oppression and governments create
prosperity; the military, not corrupt politicians start wars; there was
no art before federal funding; the NRA is bad because it stands up for
certain parts of the constitution, while the ACLU is good because it
stands up for certain parts of the constitution; you believe Tubman,
Chavez and Steinem are more important to American history than
Jefferson, Washington and Edison; you believe conservatives are racist,
yet think minorities couldn't make it without your help; you believe
socialism hasn't worked yet because the right people haven't been in
charge yet; self esteem is more important than actually doing something
to earn it; and finally, you are against capital punishment, but for
abortion on demand, in short,you support protecting the guilty, while
killing the innocent!
John LaRough
Bruce Bergman <blCHURR...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:0bvoms0n2rfskfm54...@4ax.com...
> I agree with most of this, but there are a few points...
> If you had the room, would you really put in a 4F Caterpillar
> battery? (They're about the size of a milk crate, you could go for a
> week with a bad alternator...) My LC has dual Group 27's, one
> deep-cycle, but I also have a winch and a ton of accessories running
> off the second battery.
Probably not..:) But, the trend has unfortunately been to downsize
batteries. Call up any full-service-you-can-trust-us automotive service
center (this goes for most dealers) and tell them that you need a battery
for a MKIII supra (1986.5 - 1992). I doubt they will give you a group 27F.
At least that has been my experience.
> > 5) Most people say the DieHard Gold is the best lead acid battery on
the
> >market. It's $80 but worth it.
>
> Hype. It's good, but Sears has all their batteries made to spec by
> the 'outside vendor of the year', it was Johnson Controls last time I
> checked. And Sears has a nasty trick - You might have gotten a great
> 'On Sale' price, but when the battery goes bad it isn't on sale, and
> they're pro-rating 5% or 10% off of Full List Price for the
> replacement battery. Big Whoop.
>
> And the 'Die-Hard Security'... Batteries are Batteries, and Car
> Alarms are Car Alarms. Why pay for both, and have to throw away the
> alarm every three years? Big Fat Waste. Buy a good alarm.
Yup. It is a Johnson Controls unit last time I checked. But they are good
batteries and they seem to be pretty consistance in sourcing them well.
> > 6) The best battery on the planet (my opinion) is the "Optima". Sells
for
> >around $120. Completely different technology.
> >http://www.optimabatteries.com (don't work for them)
>
> Overkill par excellence. They are great for specialized purposes,
> but a total waste for most uses. Put them where having a totally
> sealed battery is important, like under the back seat of a Beetle, or
> where the second battery that can only be placed in the passenger
> compartment. Use them where the extremely low internal resistance is
> a plus, like feeding that 10,000 watt stack of amps in your boom car,
> they're better than 1 Farad stiffening capacitors. Use them where the
> ultra-high CCA for their size is needed. Use them where
> ultra-long-life with absolutely no maintenance, and high vibration
> resistance is important, like buried deep in the internals of a race
> car. But for use in Grandmas' Grocery-Getter, save your money.
I disagree. The Optima will last much longer for reasons already listed and
the Optima is designed especially for that (heat/vibration - both in
abundant supply in any car). And it perfect for grandma's grocery getter.
How often is grandma going to be doing any maintenance. How is grandma
gonna cope when the car won't start. One stranded incident is probably
worth the $50 difference between a good normal battery and an Optima.
Hey, I got one for you or Rick about the DieHard "Security". I called up
their "tech" and they said that it works as follows: It allows the car to
be started when armed, but will kill the engine a few seconds after
starting. It will do this once again, but then refuse to deliver enough
power to the starter.
My question is: Just how does the battery shut down the engine? Safely? I
mean, does it ground or something? Does this introduce a "load dump". The
tech I talked to had no clue to these questions. And that (and the price)
precluded me from buying one for a particular application.
John
Bruce Bergman
On Wed, 12 Jul 2000 01:46:36 -0700, "John LaRough"
<jlar...@netscape.net> wrote:
>A decent auto shop has what's called a "load tester". It will determine if
>your battery is up to spec.
>
>Rules about batteries:
>
> 1) Bigger IS better. My Toyota calls for a 27F (monster size). Almost
>every shop will try to pop in a 34 or some other lame Fiesta sized unit and
>get you out the door.
But there is a point of diminishing returns, as long as the battery
is as big as the manufacturer calls for or one size up (as long as it
fits in the tray and can be secured) is fine, and the next size up
strategy can be vital in the Snow Belt, where 0 F CCA's are vital.
But for people in L.A.?
If you had the room, would you really put in a 4F Caterpillar
battery? (They're about the size of a milk crate, you could go for a
week with a bad alternator...) My LC has dual Group 27's, one
deep-cycle, but I also have a winch and a ton of accessories running
off the second battery.
> 2) Heat kills batteries. The knock-out punch comes in the winter when you
>need the CCA.
>
> 3) CAs (cranking amps) ain't the same as CCA (cold cranking amps). Its a
>marketing ploy. You really can't get enough CCAs (rule 1 applies big-time
>here).
>
> 4) Keep terminals clean and in good shape. Don't be afraid to replace
>them when you suspect them of not working properly. They're cheap and don't
>exactly give you many visual clues they're failing.
>
> 5) Most people say the DieHard Gold is the best lead acid battery on the
>market. It's $80 but worth it.
Hype. It's good, but Sears has all their batteries made to spec by
the 'outside vendor of the year', it was Johnson Controls last time I
checked. And Sears has a nasty trick - You might have gotten a great
'On Sale' price, but when the battery goes bad it isn't on sale, and
they're pro-rating 5% or 10% off of Full List Price for the
replacement battery. Big Whoop.
And the 'Die-Hard Security'... Batteries are Batteries, and Car
Alarms are Car Alarms. Why pay for both, and have to throw away the
alarm every three years? Big Fat Waste. Buy a good alarm.
> 6) The best battery on the planet (my opinion) is the "Optima". Sells for
>around $120. Completely different technology.
>http://www.optimabatteries.com (don't work for them)
Overkill par excellence. They are great for specialized purposes,
but a total waste for most uses. Put them where having a totally
sealed battery is important, like under the back seat of a Beetle, or
where the second battery that can only be placed in the passenger
compartment. Use them where the extremely low internal resistance is
a plus, like feeding that 10,000 watt stack of amps in your boom car,
they're better than 1 Farad stiffening capacitors. Use them where the
ultra-high CCA for their size is needed. Use them where
ultra-long-life with absolutely no maintenance, and high vibration
resistance is important, like buried deep in the internals of a race
car. But for use in Grandmas' Grocery-Getter, save your money.
> 7) An alternator not up to spec can eat batteries.
>
> 8) Buy the best you can find. Only the rich can afford cheap batteries.
And if you want to avoid breakdowns caused by a dead battery, buy
the good ones (but you don't need the "Gold Plated" ones), and change
them when the warranty is gone - the battery manufacturer knows how
long that design should last...
> John
>
>ricardo <rick...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>news:P8ma5.4008$%P.32...@bgtnsc06-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
>> How do you know when to replace the battery (besides waking up one morning
>> and finding out that the car won't start)? Are there any telltale signs to
>> watch out for? I have a '95 Previa LE S/C with the original battery.
>Thanks
>> in advance! Please reply to the group.
--<< Bruce >>--
Gord Beaman
>
>Hey, I got one for you or Rick about the DieHard "Security". I called up
>their "tech" and they said that it works as follows: It allows the car to
>be started when armed, but will kill the engine a few seconds after
>starting. It will do this once again, but then refuse to deliver enough
>power to the starter.
>
>My question is: Just how does the battery shut down the engine? Safely? I
>mean, does it ground or something? Does this introduce a "load dump". The
>tech I talked to had no clue to these questions. And that (and the price)
>precluded me from buying one for a particular application.
>
> John
Me too!...watching with interest for Rick's answer... :)
>
>
--
Gord Beaman
PEI Canada.
John
Yeah, I think I'll go ahead and order one, too. Now, with ABS, what's this
thing in the manual about contacting the dealer before disconnecting the
battery cable for?
Rick Jones wrote:
>
> John wrote:
> >
> > Where can one find a battery blanket -- or heat shield? You see it on some
> > cars but not others.
> >
> > John LaRough wrote:
> > > 2) Heat kills batteries. The knock-out punch comes in the winter when you
> > > need the CCA.
> > >
>
Rick Jones
>
> Bruce Bergman <blCHURR...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
> news:0bvoms0n2rfskfm54...@4ax.com...
> > battery? (They're about the size of a milk crate, you could go for a
> > week with a bad alternator...) My LC has dual Group 27's, one
> > deep-cycle, but I also have a winch and a ton of accessories running
> > off the second battery.
>
> batteries. Call up any full-service-you-can-trust-us automotive service
> center (this goes for most dealers) and tell them that you need a battery
> for a MKIII supra (1986.5 - 1992). I doubt they will give you a group 27F.
> At least that has been my experience.
>
> the
> > >market. It's $80 but worth it.
> >
> > Hype. It's good, but Sears has all their batteries made to spec by
> > the 'outside vendor of the year', it was Johnson Controls last time I
> > checked. And Sears has a nasty trick - You might have gotten a great
> > 'On Sale' price, but when the battery goes bad it isn't on sale, and
> > they're pro-rating 5% or 10% off of Full List Price for the
> > replacement battery. Big Whoop.
> >
> > And the 'Die-Hard Security'... Batteries are Batteries, and Car
> > Alarms are Car Alarms. Why pay for both, and have to throw away the
> > alarm every three years? Big Fat Waste. Buy a good alarm.
>
> batteries and they seem to be pretty consistance in sourcing them well.
>
> for
> > >around $120. Completely different technology.
> > >http://www.optimabatteries.com (don't work for them)
> >
> > Overkill par excellence. They are great for specialized purposes,
> > but a total waste for most uses. Put them where having a totally
> > sealed battery is important, like under the back seat of a Beetle, or
> > where the second battery that can only be placed in the passenger
> > compartment. Use them where the extremely low internal resistance is
> > a plus, like feeding that 10,000 watt stack of amps in your boom car,
> > they're better than 1 Farad stiffening capacitors. Use them where the
> > ultra-high CCA for their size is needed. Use them where
> > ultra-long-life with absolutely no maintenance, and high vibration
> > resistance is important, like buried deep in the internals of a race
> > car. But for use in Grandmas' Grocery-Getter, save your money.
>
> the Optima is designed especially for that (heat/vibration - both in
> abundant supply in any car). And it perfect for grandma's grocery getter.
> How often is grandma going to be doing any maintenance. How is grandma
> gonna cope when the car won't start. One stranded incident is probably
> worth the $50 difference between a good normal battery and an Optima.
>
> their "tech" and they said that it works as follows: It allows the car to
> be started when armed, but will kill the engine a few seconds after
> starting. It will do this once again, but then refuse to deliver enough
> power to the starter.
>
> My question is: Just how does the battery shut down the engine? Safely? I
> mean, does it ground or something? Does this introduce a "load dump". The
> tech I talked to had no clue to these questions. And that (and the price)
> precluded me from buying one for a particular application.
>
> John
I was under the inpression a remote tranmsitter just "opens" the battery
up to "kill" the system, and it does have a small fused source to keep
radio memory/clock alive and will pop the fuse if someone trys to start
it then and kill everything
Rick Jones
> OBExplanation to newbies: the difference between Group 24 and 24F or
> 27 and 27F? Ford decided they wanted the + and - terminals swapped so
> they could use shorter battery cables on certain car models, and
> thereby save ~10 cents a car on the cables. So they added the F for
> Ford to the spec, and the practice has held for probably 50 years.
>
> Moral of the story: Check the terminal markings carefully every time
> before hooking up jumper cables. The + can be on either end.
>
Bruce, that doesnt even apply too much anymore. As another way to save
money, many makers are installing terminals on each side, but they are
centered, so if you want to change your battery from a 24 to a 24F, you
just spin the battery 180', problem with this, now many cables must
stretch and load from the ends instead of the side, looks cheezy IMHO
Rick Jones
>
> Yeah, I think I'll go ahead and order one, too. Now, with ABS, what's this
> thing in the manual about contacting the dealer before disconnecting the
> battery cable for?
>
Just make sure the key is in the OFF position and remove it while
disconnecting and reconnecting is all, you will get no error codes. ;-)
Bruce Bergman
<jlar...@netscape.net> wrote:
>
>Bruce Bergman <blCHURR...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
>news:0bvoms0n2rfskfm54...@4ax.com...
>> I agree with most of this, but there are a few points...
>> If you had the room, would you really put in a 4F Caterpillar
>> battery? (They're about the size of a milk crate, you could go for a
>> week with a bad alternator...) My LC has dual Group 27's, one
>> deep-cycle, but I also have a winch and a ton of accessories running
>> off the second battery.
>
>Probably not..:) But, the trend has unfortunately been to downsize
>batteries. Call up any full-service-you-can-trust-us automotive service
>center (this goes for most dealers) and tell them that you need a battery
>for a MKIII supra (1986.5 - 1992). I doubt they will give you a group 27F.
>At least that has been my experience.
That's pretty common, especially as they likely make more money with
the small batteries. For OEM's, the batteries are cheaper, and for
aftermarket, the customers just know they are going to pay $50 for a
battery, and won't know that the mechanic used the smaller one and
pocketed the difference.
OBExplanation to newbies: the difference between Group 24 and 24F or
27 and 27F? Ford decided they wanted the + and - terminals swapped so
they could use shorter battery cables on certain car models, and
thereby save ~10 cents a car on the cables. So they added the F for
Ford to the spec, and the practice has held for probably 50 years.
Moral of the story: Check the terminal markings carefully every time
before hooking up jumper cables. The + can be on either end.
>> > 6) The best battery on the planet (my opinion) is the "Optima". Sells
>for
>> >around $120. Completely different technology.
>> >http://www.optimabatteries.com (don't work for them)
>>
>> Overkill par excellence. They are great for specialized purposes,
>> but a total waste for most uses. Put them where having a totally
>> sealed battery is important, like under the back seat of a Beetle, or
>> where the second battery that can only be placed in the passenger
>> compartment. Use them where the extremely low internal resistance is
>> a plus, like feeding that 10,000 watt stack of amps in your boom car,
>> they're better than 1 Farad stiffening capacitors. Use them where the
>> ultra-high CCA for their size is needed. Use them where
>> ultra-long-life with absolutely no maintenance, and high vibration
>> resistance is important, like buried deep in the internals of a race
>> car. But for use in Grandmas' Grocery-Getter, save your money.
>
>I disagree. The Optima will last much longer for reasons already listed and
>the Optima is designed especially for that (heat/vibration - both in
>abundant supply in any car). And it perfect for grandma's grocery getter.
>How often is grandma going to be doing any maintenance. How is grandma
>gonna cope when the car won't start. One stranded incident is probably
>worth the $50 difference between a good normal battery and an Optima.
If Grandma is "The Little Old Lady from Pasadena, she'll be glad to
have you drop an Optima in her sleeper Dodge Dart with the factory 440
6-Pack, full cage and traction bars. (And the Bud Vase on the dash as
a perfect disguise...) It's a good product if you need it, otherwise
it's just a lot of extra money. A normal-style maintenance-free
battery lasts just as long, and costs a third of an Optima, so what if
it's a few pounds heavier.
But if I ever return my Corvair to Daily-Driver status, it'll get an
Optima installed up front in the trunk as a second battery for the
stereo and accessories. You can't easily get Group 57 batteries
anymore (and they were undersized to begin with), and the Group 53 -
which is the only other common one that fits in the stock battery well
- has even less reserve time.
>Hey, I got one for you or Rick about the DieHard "Security". I called up
>their "tech" and they said that it works as follows: It allows the car to
>be started when armed, but will kill the engine a few seconds after
>starting. It will do this once again, but then refuse to deliver enough
>power to the starter.
>
>My question is: Just how does the battery shut down the engine? Safely? I
>mean, does it ground or something? Does this introduce a "load dump". The
>tech I talked to had no clue to these questions. And that (and the price)
>precluded me from buying one for a particular application.
>
> John
If they just open the battery lead with a relay contact, that
certainly will stop the car the first time it drops to idle and the
alternator cannot meet the load, but in the process it can smoke the
alternator diodes. Alternators are NOT designed to be run without a
battery in the circuit. That's why Marine battery selector switches
for boats with alternators have an additional small set of contacts to
open the alternator field circuit while you're twisting the knob
between settings or to the "Off" position.
I'd be interested in how it works, myself. Having a battery that
both causes damage (blown alternator) and voids the vehicle warranty
(because they tell you *not* to disconnect the battery while the car
is running) during normal operation would be a big liability for
Sears, especially since new alternators range from $250 to $500.
John LaRough
Rick Jones <ssau...@switchboard.net> wrote in message
news:396E842D...@switchboard.net...
> John LaRough wrote:
> > Hey, I got one for you or Rick about the DieHard "Security". I called
up
> > their "tech" and they said that it works as follows: It allows the car
to
> > be started when armed, but will kill the engine a few seconds after
> > starting. It will do this once again, but then refuse to deliver enough
> > power to the starter.
> >
> > My question is: Just how does the battery shut down the engine?
Safely? I
> > mean, does it ground or something? Does this introduce a "load dump".
The
> > tech I talked to had no clue to these questions. And that (and the
price)
> > precluded me from buying one for a particular application.
> >
> > John
>
> I was under the inpression a remote tranmsitter just "opens" the battery
> up to "kill" the system, and it does have a small fused source to keep
> radio memory/clock alive and will pop the fuse if someone trys to start
> it then and kill everything
I have been a good boy and have never disconnected the battery of my newer
cars (Toyotas) while they're running. But on the old Fords I owned,
disconnecting the battery was never a problem.
1. Will opening the main battery circuit kill a running engine?
2. Isn't this a huge no-no?
I'm gonna call Sears again on this. They're too smart to do something that
stupid.
John
John LaRough
Then the their need only keep the rpm's up to defeat the system. Like I was
telling Rick, I'll have to call Sears again on this one.
John
Chris Phillipo
> Rick Jones <ssau...@switchboard.net> wrote in message
> news:396E842D...@switchboard.net...
> > John LaRough wrote:
> > > Hey, I got one for you or Rick about the DieHard "Security". I called
> up
> > > their "tech" and they said that it works as follows: It allows the car
> to
> > > be started when armed, but will kill the engine a few seconds after
> > > starting. It will do this once again, but then refuse to deliver enough
> > > power to the starter.
> > >
> > > My question is: Just how does the battery shut down the engine?
> Safely? I
> > > mean, does it ground or something? Does this introduce a "load dump".
> The
> > > tech I talked to had no clue to these questions. And that (and the
> price)
> > > precluded me from buying one for a particular application.
> > >
> > > John
> >
> > I was under the inpression a remote tranmsitter just "opens" the battery
> > up to "kill" the system, and it does have a small fused source to keep
> > radio memory/clock alive and will pop the fuse if someone trys to start
> > it then and kill everything
>
> I have been a good boy and have never disconnected the battery of my newer
> cars (Toyotas) while they're running. But on the old Fords I owned,
> disconnecting the battery was never a problem.
>
> 1. Will opening the main battery circuit kill a running engine?
> 2. Isn't this a huge no-no?
>
> I'm gonna call Sears again on this. They're too smart to do something that
> stupid.
>
> John
I always thought it was a simple open circuit and the car wouldn't start period,
but now you are saying that it runs for a while and then cuts out? That would
be a tough one to pull off. Do they install anything else under the hood
besides the battery?
--
__________________________________
Please remove "X" from email address to reply.
R Smith
enough power for accessories but no starting power. The system also has
circuitry which detects a heavy drain on the battery, such as leaving the
headlights on, and will cut even more or all the power to save the battery.
Rob Smith
"Chris Phillipo" <Xcphi...@ns.sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:396F7E2C...@ns.sympatico.ca...
> John LaRough wrote:
>
> > Rick Jones <ssau...@switchboard.net> wrote in message
> > news:396E842D...@switchboard.net...
> > > John LaRough wrote:
Rick Jones
>
> Rick Jones <ssau...@switchboard.net> wrote in message
> news:396E842D...@switchboard.net...
> > John LaRough wrote:
> up
> > > their "tech" and they said that it works as follows: It allows the car
> to
> > > be started when armed, but will kill the engine a few seconds after
> > > starting. It will do this once again, but then refuse to deliver enough
> > > power to the starter.
> > >
> > > My question is: Just how does the battery shut down the engine?
> Safely? I
> > > mean, does it ground or something? Does this introduce a "load dump".
> The
> > > tech I talked to had no clue to these questions. And that (and the
> price)
> > > precluded me from buying one for a particular application.
> > >
> > > John
> >
> > I was under the inpression a remote tranmsitter just "opens" the battery
> > up to "kill" the system, and it does have a small fused source to keep
> > radio memory/clock alive and will pop the fuse if someone trys to start
> > it then and kill everything
>
> cars (Toyotas) while they're running. But on the old Fords I owned,
> disconnecting the battery was never a problem.
>
> 1. Will opening the main battery circuit kill a running engine?
No, it will run off the alternators output.
> 2. Isn't this a huge no-no?
Yes Yes, maybe they have a large capacitor to absorb the spikes???
>
> I'm gonna call Sears again on this. They're too smart to do something that
> stupid.
>
> John
Vyhan
bit more?
1 - Put the key in OFF position. Is it the same as LOCK or ACC position?
2 - Disconnecting the battery.
3 - Put the key back in the ignition.
4 - Reconnecting the battery.
Is this procedure correct? Does it apply to CAMRY V6 1995?
Rick Jones <ssau...@switchboard.net> wrote in message
news:396E8529...@switchboard.net...
> John wrote:
> >
> > Yeah, I think I'll go ahead and order one, too. Now, with ABS, what's
this
> > thing in the manual about contacting the dealer before disconnecting the
> > battery cable for?
> >
>
> Just make sure the key is in the OFF position and remove it while
> disconnecting and reconnecting is all, you will get no error codes. ;-)
>
>
>
>
>