If you only have the one outlet and light fixture(s) then make a
'pigtail' on the source wires. Connect the source to the line side of
the GFCI and wire the switch/lights off the the source wires (pigtail).
Don't connect anything to the load side of the GFCI outlet.
If you add more general purpose outlets then you can connect them to the
load side so that the GFCI will protect them as well.
Kevin
Could you be a bit more specific about what and *why*
certain things screw up a gfci?
Like, we recently redid our kitchen ($$$!), and now
*every* outlet (I believe) is gfci'd.
We run microwave, refrig, sewing machine, you name it,
off the gfci.
What exactly is it *about* the gfci that makes it
interact poorly with eg fluorscent lighting?
Thanks
David
GFCI's react to very small (3-5ma) imbalances in current flow.
It is thought that certain types of devices that present a lot
of inductive load (motors, compressors, sometimes flourescent
balasts) or capacitive load can occasionaly "couple" enough
current to the ground, causing an imbalance, to cause the GFCI
to trip.
The truth of this isn't particularly well established. However,
the code recognizes that certain things suffer very adversely from
power interruptions (eg: fridges), and are usually grounded well
enough (third prong on the fridge and metal enclosure) to make the
GFCI's talents unnecessary. Thus certain exceptions in the code
to not require GFCIs for "large fixed equipment" etc.
--
Chris Lewis,
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