M.C.B'S
mark
I'm doing a lot of alterations to my workshops. upgrading.
as it is now I have a ten way consumer unit for the house and on this
I now have a 63 amp mcb to supply power to another consuimer unit in
my workshop.
now with all the extra machinery I have I need to go up to 80 amp mcb.
the problem is that the 80 amp mcb I've been given is plus half as
wide as the others......I was told once you jump up to 80 amp mcb's
this is so.
the problem is I cant fit it in place of the 63 amp without taking one
of the others out so making it a 9 way consumer unit .
the question is ...
do 80 amp mcb's exsist that are the same width as the the smaller
mcb's.
have I been mis-sold or mis-informed about the 80 amp I already have.
the rest of the mcb's are Hager model number 6000-3...the type that
tighten onto a buzz bar in the consumer unit.
All the best...mark
Duncan Munro
I'm not an electrician, but I've got two consumer units - the electric
board put a splitter in after the meter. One goes to the house consumer
unit, the other to the new consumer unit.
This saves taking the feed from an MCB, and has the added advantage that
consumer unit no. 2 won't trip no. 1 as well as itself (all them clocks to
reset etc.)
80A sounds like a lot for a domestic workshop - are you running a
furnace/kiln or something like that?
--
Duncan Munro
http://metal.duncanamps.com/
mark
furnace/kiln or something like that?"
Things like plasma cutters and 14cfm compressors dont half draw
current together with 1400 watts of lights......and what ever else I
may have switched on at the same time .
the comp draws up to 45 amps starting then uses a continuse 19
amps.....the plazma cutter is used at the same time as the comp.
im just covering for extreems.
may end up putting another box in if i cant find a slim line 80 amp
mcb.
all the best.mark
Duncan Munro
> DUNCAN SAID
> "80A sounds like a lot for a domestic workshop - are you running a
> furnace/kiln or something like that?"
>
> Things like plasma cutters and 14cfm compressors dont half draw
> current together with 1400 watts of lights......and what ever else I
> may have switched on at the same time .
Ouch!!! Good luck ;-)
Campingstoveman
> On 17 Apr 2004 07:51:50 -0700, mark wrote:
>
>> DUNCAN SAID
>> "80A sounds like a lot for a domestic workshop - are you running a
>> furnace/kiln or something like that?"
>>
>> Things like plasma cutters and 14cfm compressors dont half draw
>> current together with 1400 watts of lights......and what ever else I
>> may have switched on at the same time .
>
> Ouch!!! Good luck ;-)
Mark,
I am just curious but you must have one hell of a compressor, my first one
was a single cylinder industrial with a 3hp motor single phase and starting
on load I thought 20 amps was high.
My brother also has a plasma cutter but his garage does not rate as high as
yours does?
Martin P
mark
I am just curious but you must have one hell of a compressor, my first
one
was a single cylinder industrial with a 3hp motor single phase and
starting
on load I thought 20 amps was high.
My brother also has a plasma cutter but his garage does not rate as
high as
yours does?
Martin P"
It says on the plate on the compressor motor 2.2 kilowatt and 14.6
amp.
I was measuring the power with one of those inductive clip-on
ampetres....ON ONE OF THE TAILINGS COMING FROM THE METER TO THE
CONSUMER UNIT .
There is a 60 foot run of 6mm cable to my workshop ....thinking about
doubling this up to, 2 x 6mm
The ampmetre ..(a fiends) .has nmisled me before ......with devices
that use motors and tranformers......it said my three phase rotary
converter was using 14 amps ........but when I did the calculations
the old fashioned way by counting the turns of the dial on the
electricity meter ,My maths showed I was actually using about 2 amps
or so.
anyhows not had the 63 amp mcb trip on me yet .....so perhaps I'm best
leaving things alone.....until I do have a tripping problem.
but I still dont know if there is a slim version of the mcb I talked
about.
......will have to do some old fashioned counting turns of the meter
with this compressor I think......
all the best ..mark
timleech
>
>It says on the plate on the compressor motor 2.2 kilowatt and 14.6
>amp.
>I was measuring the power with one of those inductive clip-on
>ampetres....ON ONE OF THE TAILINGS COMING FROM THE METER TO THE
>CONSUMER UNIT .
>There is a 60 foot run of 6mm cable to my workshop ....thinking about
>doubling this up to, 2 x 6mm
>The ampmetre ..(a fiends) .has nmisled me before ......with devices
>that use motors and tranformers......it said my three phase rotary
>converter was using 14 amps ........but when I did the calculations
>the old fashioned way by counting the turns of the dial on the
>electricity meter ,My maths showed I was actually using about 2 amps
>or so.
>anyhows not had the 63 amp mcb trip on me yet
I think there's your own answer. If it's not causing a problem, why
worry?
1500 W sounds like a frightening amount of lighting <g>
Your compressor motor will draw 80 Amps or so *Momentarily* when
starting. That doesn't mean everything has to be rated for that
current. Domestic mcb's will cope with a fair degree of momentary
overload to cater for motor starting etc. I'm not an electrician, but
I believe that if you do have a problem with tripping on motor
starting, there's a type of mcb which is specifically intended for
motor starting duties, and will cope with a heavier momentary
overload.
I have the dry-dock with a 5hp compressor (takes maybe 150 A to
start), 300A MIG welder, 180A stick welder, plasma cutter, plus
3-phase convertor in the workshop running a lathe with 8hp motor +
several smaller machines, etc., ALL on one 45A *cartridge fuse* from
the main consumer unit. I haven't blown the fuse once in 5 years, I
did have problems with a 45A mcb triping when the compressor started.
That was a real pain as the two are 200m apart. All the individual
circuits have mcb protection.
I should add that, apart from the compressor, I'm the only person who
uses the heavy kit so it isn't all used at once <g>
Cheers
Tim
Tim Leech
Dutton Dry-Dock
Traditional & Modern canal craft repairs
Nigel Eaton
<aboard_...@yahoo.com> writes
>martin said
>"Mark,
>I am just curious but you must have one hell of a compressor, my first
(Snip)
Mark,
You seem to be starting a new thread for each followup you post to
responses to your original post.
That makes it very difficult for everyone else to read. It's much better
practice to keep the conversation in one thread (which is kind of the
point of having threads!).
Cheers
--
Nigel
When the only tools you have are a Bridgeport, a CNC Taig Mill, a Colchester
and assorted other stuff, every problem looks like a steam engine.
Campingstoveman
Mark,
The only thing that concerns me is that you appear to be so over rated on
the MCB that if you did have a problem it would not trip and at worst the
faulty unit would over heat.
Martin P
mark
"Mark,
You seem to be starting a new thread for each followup you post to
responses to your original post.
That makes it very difficult for everyone else to read. It's much
better
practice to keep the conversation in one thread (which is kind of the
point of having threads!).
Cheers
--
Nigel"
Thats because I read in outlook express and post in google
groups....replys do not apear IN GOOGLE for eight hours ......so I
have to post blind
This is the only way I can keep my outlook spam free
And it is .......not one bit of spam in two years.
if you know of a place on the net where I can post and say leave my
yahoo addy and the place does not have any delay please tell me .
all the best....mark
mark
"there's a type of mcb which is specifically intended for
motor starting duties, and will cope with a heavier momentary
overload."
Yup I have them .....they are "D" types.
yes thanks to my friends inacurate ampmetre .....I think I am
overestamating what I use .
something to do with inductive devices (motors transformers) confusing
the thing I think.
sorry about the postings being all over the show.......but it's the
only way I can post for now .....see other reply to Nigel
all the best..mark
timleech
<martin...@btopenworld.com> wrote:
>Mark,
>The only thing that concerns me is that you appear to be so over rated on
>the MCB that if you did have a problem it would not trip and at worst the
>faulty unit would over heat.
>
Agreed I don't think 80A MCB would give very good protection for 6mmsq
cable, even the current 63A is pushing it somewhat :-(
Bob Minchin
mark wrote in message ...
Mark, Have your tried using a different mail packages for mail and news.
For historic reasons I use netscape for mail and that also suited me for
news until I wanted a filter on the news to reject the utterings of a
certain frequenter of this NG.
I then enabled OE for news only, used a dummy address for the return addy.
I've been usuing this since around Christmas with no obvious problems.
HTH
Bob
Roland and Celia Craven
--
Roland Craven
nr Exeter Devon, UK
rol...@petternut.co.uk
http://www.petternut.co.uk
"timleech" <timl...@dutondok.u-net.com> wrote in message
news:686380dfglk3fnffh...@4ax.com...
mark
Mark, Have your tried using a different mail packages for mail and
news.
For historic reasons I use netscape for mail and that also suited me
for
news until I wanted a filter on the news to reject the utterings of a
certain frequenter of this NG.
I then enabled OE for news only, used a dummy address for the return
addy.
I've been usuing this since around Christmas with no obvious problems.
HTH
Bob
Think if someone were to set up a web forum as good as the american
run.
machine shop forum "practical machinist"
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/cgi-bin/ubbcgi/Ultimate.cgi
we would be on to a winner.....mr certain frequent user could be
banned as soon as he made an apearence.
what would be better though .......if google stopped this bloody
delay.
all the best....mark
Nigel Eaton
>"Mark,
>
>You seem to be starting a new thread for each followup you post to
>responses to your original post.
>
>That makes it very difficult for everyone else to read. It's much
>better
>practice to keep the conversation in one thread (which is kind of the
>point of having threads!).
>
>Cheers
>Thats because I read in outlook express and post in google
>groups....replys do not apear IN GOOGLE for eight hours ......so I
>have to post blind
>This is the only way I can keep my outlook spam free
>And it is .......not one bit of spam in two years.
>if you know of a place on the net where I can post and say leave my
>yahoo addy and the place does not have any delay please tell me .
>all the best....mark
Blimey, now you're following up to replies in completely different
threads!
I have to say, that combining that with your software not quoting
replies in accordance with the RFC's (i.e., there should be a ">"
character at the beginning of each quoted line), your replies are pretty
much incomprehensible without a deal of work.
I would really, really suggest that you get some decent posting software
and a good posting host. Sign up with news.individual.net. It's free and
provides an *excellent* service.
You can then either continue to use Outlook Express, in which case I'd
recommend you google for Quotefix as a way of sorting out some of the
bugs in OE, or switch to something like Free Agent (www.forteinc.com).
If not, I fear you'll be hitting a lot of kill files in the near future,
and that would be a shame.
mark
just downloaded free agent and my server will not allow it by the
looks of things
Maybe it's because im subscribed to text only on my outlook
yes I could have it the other way ..but ...it does not work at all
well with pipex ,messages other than text in the news groups in my
outlook take 3 or four mins to download ...and that just for each
message ...so thats why I went text ...pipex have had this probl;em
for over a year now....EVERYONES PROBLEM NOT JUST MINE.......
other than news group troubles pipex has been spot on for me ...so
dont advise to change my server.
tried three or four times to reply and just got this all the time.
18/04/2004 00:16:49 Connection closed unexpectedly by server.:
Connecting to pop.dsl.pipex.com.
I've only got a limited amnount of patients with this.
and i believe in a stress free life .......
i think computers were invented to shorten peoples lifespans .....it
aint doing it to me .
will try again tommorow just in case its a glitch ..and thats me lot.
all the best...mark
18/04/2004 00:16:49 Connection closed unexpectedly by server.:
Connecting to pop.dsl.pipex.com.
timleech
<rol...@petternut.co.uk> wrote:
>IIRC the usual domestic supply is only rated (and fused) at 60A anyway?
Ours is 100A, they uprated it from 60A about 10 years ago, without
being asked, when the meter boiard had to be replaced (it had turned
to dust!)
I guess you'll find 100A ir normal for newer installations.
Jonathan Barnes
If the workshop is drawing more than 63 amps you probably want to separate
the supply anyway as putting on the oven to cook dinner could pull the
master trip for both the house and the workshop ( Workshop 60 A +House 45 A
= 100 amp breaker trip out :-( )
Your cable is probably rated at 69 A , and you should ignore brief surges
such as motor starting, as the rating is based on not overheating the cable
in continuos use, and a brief surge ( within reason ) will not heat a cable
significantly.
I presume your using single phase, even so the draw for your compressor
seems a little high.
For a small workshop you seem to have a lot of light... do you also have
electric heating.... would night storage save on capacity required and cost.
If you are the only person in the shop load will not ever be the total
maximum.
Have you worked out your worst case load ?
I'm a little rusty on the regulations, but IEE 16th Ed had rating allowances
for part use written into it somewhere.
Jonathan
Barnes's theorem; for every foolproof device
there is a fool greater than the proof.
To reply remove AT
"mark" <aboard_...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:a462fee3.04041...@posting.google.com...
timleech
<jba...@ATnetcomuk.co.uk> wrote:
>A few comments..
>
>If the workshop is drawing more than 63 amps you probably want to separate
>the supply anyway as putting on the oven to cook dinner could pull the
>master trip for both the house and the workshop ( Workshop 60 A +House 45 A
>= 100 amp breaker trip out :-( )
>
>Your cable is probably rated at 69 A , and you should ignore brief surges
>such as motor starting, as the rating is based on not overheating the cable
>in continuos use, and a brief surge ( within reason ) will not heat a cable
>significantly.
>
If it's ordinary flat twin & earth, the rating (usually?) quoted is
40A for 6mmsq - see for instance
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CA6Gslash50.html
Andrew T
aboard_...@yahoo.com says...
> do 80 amp mcb's exsist that are the same width as the the smaller
> mcb's.
It doesn't sound like you are doing this the best way at all. Maybe you
are pulling over 63A to the other unit, but if you are, you should think
about getting the electricity board to come in and split the supply
after the meter so each consumer unit gets a supply. You are highly
unlikely to use everything in your workshop at once, so take load
diversity into account when you work out breaker and cable ratings.
I'd look into getting a motor rated breaker to deal with the compressor.
Most ammeters in multimeters aren't very good at telling you the current
drawn unless the load is purely resistive, and never work for start-up
currents, otherwise ignoring it, or massively over-reading.
One last thing, you mentioned doubling cable up to increase capacity.
It's generally not a good idea to do this, as one will have a higher
resistance than the other, and it can cause problems with more load
being taken by one than the other. Upgrade to a big enough cable to
serve you into the future.
TBH, you'd be best getting an electrician in, as it does get quite
complex.
Andrew
Jonathan Barnes
Jonathan Barnes
"timleech" wrote in message
> >Your cable is probably rated at 69 A , and you should ignore brief surges
> >such as motor starting, as the rating is based on not overheating the
cable
> >in continuos use, and a brief surge ( within reason ) will not heat a
cable
> >significantly.
> >
>
> If it's ordinary flat twin & earth, the rating (usually?) quoted is
> 40A for 6mmsq - see for instance
> http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CA6Gslash50.html
>
>
> Cheers
> Tim
>
I was assuming a SWA ( steel wire armored ) cable in the ground.
It's an outside run, twin and earth is not realy suitable in most outside
applications.
--
Mark Rand
>
>
>
>It says on the plate on the compressor motor 2.2 kilowatt and 14.6
>amp.
>I was measuring the power with one of those inductive clip-on
>ampetres....ON ONE OF THE TAILINGS COMING FROM THE METER TO THE
>CONSUMER UNIT .
>There is a 60 foot run of 6mm cable to my workshop ....thinking about
>doubling this up to, 2 x 6mm
>The ampmetre ..(a fiends) .has nmisled me before ......with devices
>that use motors and tranformers......it said my three phase rotary
>converter was using 14 amps ........but when I did the calculations
>the old fashioned way by counting the turns of the dial on the
>electricity meter ,My maths showed I was actually using about 2 amps
>or so.
It was using 14 Amps and 480 Watts, power factor=.14 according to the data you
have supplied. This is entirely possible.
Mark Rand
RTFM
Mike Hopkins
<aboard_...@yahoo.com> writes
>just downloaded free agent and my server will not allow it by the
>looks of things
[snip]
>Maybe it's because im subscribed to text only on my outlook
Glad to hear it and hope that is not the problem.
>18/04/2004 00:16:49 Connection closed unexpectedly by server.:
>Connecting to pop.dsl.pipex.com.
Are you doing all your mail and news reading/replying off-line or
on-line?
With the very slow speeds that you report is it possible that you have a
'Trojan' that is high-jacking your bandwidth and causing your ISP to
object to what is going out? When was the last time your machine had a
thorough scan?
--
Mike Hopkins
Swim? Naturally with MADNAT <http://www.madnat.org/>
mark
Yes all good advice points taken in.
done some checks today, what im really using peek is under 40
amps...so I'm well sticking to the 6mm cable.
cable go's up the cavity wall of my house thats since had cavity wall
insulation ..so I'm not keen anyway.
the problem was the clip on ampmetre giving incorect readings...well
readings not what i wanted to see anyhows.
phoned up a good friend today an electrical engineer, explained what I
had and even he agreed that the 6mm would do the job.
he also said I dont need the 80amp breaker ....and stick with what i
havce now 63amp.
maybe i will put a seperate RCD breaker switch in......
had manweb replace the main fuse with an 80 amp a long time ago.
thanks very much guys on helping me out with this problem.
all the best..mark
Gary Cavie
Hi Mark,
From reading what you have written on this subject, there are a couple of
other factors that you need to consider.
Firstly, having the cable running through an insulated wall derates it's
capacity (I don't have the tables to hand at present, but references
follow)
Secondly, with that sort of run and loading, voltage drop also needs to
be taken into account. Standard practice is to keep the voltage drop to
the far end to a maximum of 2%.
Using the calculator at http://www.tlc-
direct.co.uk/Technical/Charts/VoltageDrop.html suggests that you should
be using 10mm cable to keep it on the safe side. Using a 63 amp MCB on
your current setup will, in a fault situation, allow the cable to
overheat where it goes through the insulation.
Also, if you are exporting the house earth along that sort of run, you
may be introducing too much earth loop impedance for the MCB to work
properly anyway - the usual way around this is to just use live and
neutral out to the workshop, with a local earth rod at the far end, and
an RCD in the workshop unit on the incoming side (TT system).
HTH
Gary
timleech
wrote:
<big snip>
>Secondly, with that sort of run and loading, voltage drop also needs to
>be taken into account. Standard practice is to keep the voltage drop to
>the far end to a maximum of 2%.
>
>Using the calculator at http://www.tlc-
>direct.co.uk/Technical/Charts/VoltageDrop.html suggests that you should
>be using 10mm cable to keep it on the safe side. Using a 63 amp MCB on
>your current setup will, in a fault situation, allow the cable to
>overheat where it goes through the insulation.
>
>Also, if you are exporting the house earth along that sort of run, you
>may be introducing too much earth loop impedance for the MCB to work
>properly anyway - the usual way around this is to just use live and
>neutral out to the workshop, with a local earth rod at the far end, and
>an RCD in the workshop unit on the incoming side (TT system).
I'm a bit confused here - did you mean to refer to both MCB and RCD in
the same context?
I'm interested in the earth loop bit for my own situation, I have
roughly 200m of 16mmsq 2-core SWA feeding the dry-dock, with an RCD
and an earthing rod at the dry-dock end, but the steel wire on the
cable is earthed at both ends. Are you suggesting this might be better
earthed at one end only?
mark
> "timleech" wrote in message
>
> > >Your cable is probably rated at 69 A , and you should ignore brief surges
> > >such as motor starting, as the rating is based on not overheating the
> cable
> > >in continuos use, and a brief surge ( within reason ) will not heat a
> cable
> > >significantly.
> > >
> >
> > If it's ordinary flat twin & earth, the rating (usually?) quoted is
> > 40A for 6mmsq - see for instance
> > http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CA6Gslash50.html
> >
> >
> > Cheers
> > Tim
> >
>
> I was assuming a SWA ( steel wire armored ) cable in the ground.
>
> It's an outside run, twin and earth is not realy suitable in most outside
> applications.
it's in a tube
all the best..mark
mark
>
> Hi Mark,
>
> From reading what you have written on this subject, there are a couple of
> other factors that you need to consider.
>
> Firstly, having the cable running through an insulated wall derates it's
> capacity (I don't have the tables to hand at present, but references
> follow)
>
> Secondly, with that sort of run and loading, voltage drop also needs to
> be taken into account. Standard practice is to keep the voltage drop to
> the far end to a maximum of 2%.
>
> Using the calculator at http://www.tlc-
> direct.co.uk/Technical/Charts/VoltageDrop.html suggests that you should
> be using 10mm cable to keep it on the safe side. Using a 63 amp MCB on
> your current setup will, in a fault situation, allow the cable to
> overheat where it goes through the insulation.
>
> Also, if you are exporting the house earth along that sort of run, you
> may be introducing too much earth loop impedance for the MCB to work
> properly anyway - the usual way around this is to just use live and
> neutral out to the workshop, with a local earth rod at the far end, and
> an RCD in the workshop unit on the incoming side (TT system).
>
> HTH
>
> Gary
cable thing"
It's only in the insulated cavity for two foot then passes under the
floor.
it then travels the lengh of my landing and bathroom then exits into a
coduit
suspended by catenary wire....then over to the workshop.
also there is a 16mm earth traveling back to the house ..plus there is
a an earth rod stuck in the ground near the workshop with a direct
16mmm earth from the consumer unit there .
I worked out my peak and it is less than 8000 watts total.
I "had" an RCD in the workshop.63 amp ,30 miliamp trip...it never
tripped it always tripped the house one... 100 amp 30 miliamp
instead...thats why I'm going for a seperate supply from the tailings
with the RCD twin pole breaker there instead.
all the best.mark
mark
> With the very slow speeds that you report is it possible that you have a
> 'Trojan' that is high-jacking your bandwidth and causing your ISP to
> object to what is going out? When was the last time your machine had a
> thorough scan?
look in
pipex.xtreme.support
news group.
all the best..mark
mark
>
> It was using 14 Amps and 480 Watts, power factor=.14 according to the data you
> have supplied. This is entirely possible.
>
>
> Mark Rand
> RTFM
Yes this is were I became unstuck..
all the best...mark
Gary Cavie
timl...@dutondok.u-net.com says...
Hi Tim,
Yes, I did mean both. The MCB covers the cable along its run, along with
the load at the far end. The RCD at the far end is there because a local
earth rod is extremely unlikely to have a low enough earth impedance to
operate the MCB back at the supply head properly - for properly, I mean
within the specifications laid down in the 16th edition. I can't remember
exactly the figures, but one that does come to mind is that a 32A type B
MCB needs an earth loop impedance (all the way round the circuit,
including the run to the substation and back) of about 0.24 ohms. Because
you are extremely unlikely to get anywhere near that with an earth rod,
an RCD is used at the local end to cover all circuits, as these will trip
out with a much lower earth current, usually in the order of 100mA for a
TT system RCD.
With regards to the steel wire earthing, I don't believe that it is
permissible to use this for earthing purposes in its own right - it
should be earthed at the supply end, so that anybody putting a spade
through it will short the live conductor out to earth, and trip the
protective device at the supply end, hopefully before electrocution
occurs!!
As I stated earlier, I don;t have my copy of 16th edition to hand, so for
a definitive answer, uk.d-i-y is a very good resource, with people who
can quote the regs in much the same way that I can quote the direction to
my local pub!!
Gary
John Stevenson
>With regards to the steel wire earthing, I don't believe that it is
>permissible to use this for earthing purposes in its own right - it
>should be earthed at the supply end, so that anybody putting a spade
>through it will short the live conductor out to earth, and trip the
>protective device at the supply end, hopefully before electrocution
>occurs!!
>
>As I stated earlier, I don;t have my copy of 16th edition to hand, so for
>a definitive answer, uk.d-i-y is a very good resource, with people who
>can quote the regs in much the same way that I can quote the direction to
>my local pub!!
>
>Gary
I realise that regs change but I had the lecky board fit a new 100 amp per
phase 3 phase supply to my shop about 14 years ago.
Usual 3 core with steel sheath.
Both the shop earth and the shop neutral are connected to the earth sheath
on their side of the incoming fuses. This was actual lecky board men doing
this and not contractors.
Presumably this isn't allowed today ?
--
Regards,
John Stevenson
Nottingham, England.
Mark Rand
Neutral and earth are normally connected together at the transformer, so If
the transformer is close to the shop it would be quite reasonable to bond them
together close to the fuse.
Does one have to pay the crooks a lot more to get a three phase supply run in
(It would be simpler than invertors or convertors for my new workshop)
Mark Rand
RTFM
John Stevenson
wrote:
As I say it was 14 odd years ago and at that time it was a fixed price of
£200 for the installation.
They supplied the box for the wall, I had to dig and bury a plastic pipe
from the edge of the pavement to the box 5' deep.
They came and threaded a cable thru, dug the pavement up and connected it
to the 3 phase ring and fitted the fuses.
Later another mob came round, checked the installed wiring for safety and
fitted the meter.
Now they do all the work and it's a paid by job price. One guy I know
converted some terraced houses to shops and wanted 3 phase from the front
door of one house direct onto the pavement, cost was £750.
My Brother is currently arguing with the lecky board about have single
phase put in on a small farm he's bought. It's next to a large school with
power and he has 33,000v HT lines across his property. So far he's managed
to get them down from seven thousand to five thousand :-(
mark
They said the three phase was the other side of the road .
They said they would have to dig the road up ...not bore a hole
I would have to dig a trench in my drive about twenty feet long and a
metre deep
also I would have to supply and install the slow bend and the board
for the meter......I thought sod it .
I hear though,if you have the electricity on telegraph pole near by,
it's a lot cheaper.
also you can have it charged at domestic rate now...8% vat.....if it's
not a business.
all the best......mark
John.Llo...@cwcom.net
>It's next to a large school with
>power and he has 33,000v HT lines across his property. So far he's
>managed to get them down from seven thousand to five thousand :-(
Tell him to go & have a look at the nearest gyppo camp, it could save him
5 grand!!
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
John.Llo...@boltblue.com John Lloyd - Cymru/Wales
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Mark Rand
>In <795a80hcbib00q6rs...@4ax.com>, on 04/20/04
> at 01:28 PM, John Stevenson <jo...@stevenson-engineers.co.uk> said:
>
>>It's next to a large school with
>>power and he has 33,000v HT lines across his property. So far he's
>>managed to get them down from seven thousand to five thousand :-(
>
>Tell him to go & have a look at the nearest gyppo camp, it could save him
>5 grand!!
>
IIRC that's the way that grandfather first got electric for the farm in Devon
:-)
Mark Rand
RTFM