Leveling Dough bowl
Gerald Ross
3 months the ends have moved making them higher than the sides. It is 9
by 16 inches and the sides are about 3/4 inch thick. Is there any way
to make the top level again more elegant than rubbing it on the concrete
floor? My jointer is only a 6 incher and I'm a novice with a hand
plane.
--
Gerald Ross Cochran, GA
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Nova
There is a device designed for a drill press used to plane wood. It's
called a "Safety Planer". Many wood turners use it to thickness segmented
rings prior to the glue-up of bowl/vase blanks. I don't know if you care to
spend the $40.00 for the item, but it should work for your purpose. For a
description and picture see:
http://www3.woodcraft.com/PowerToolAccessories/woodworking/3189.htm
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
Ken Bullock
I do them on my web site under the project in action section.
I would square it off using a arbortech cutter then sand it again to round
out the lips.
--
Visit my web site for woodturning Tools, Videos and E-Books
<http://www.oneofakindwoodturnings.com>
"Gerald Ross" <gwr...@accucomm.net> wrote in message
news:3CB38205...@accucomm.net...
bugbear
> 3 months the ends have moved making them higher than the sides. It is 9
> by 16 inches and the sides are about 3/4 inch thick. Is there any way
> to make the top level again more elegant than rubbing it on the concrete
> floor? My jointer is only a 6 incher and I'm a novice with a hand
> plane.
I would suggest that a small hand plane (#3, or #4 Bailey pattern) or
spokeshave would be wood removing tool of choice.
The trick is the layout process. I would suggest borrowing a technique
from engineering - surface scribing.
2 tools are required. The "surface scribe" or "surface gauge" is a
gadget who's sole purpose is to hold a point (or pen, or pencil)
at a stable fixed height. As such, it's key components are a
heavy, flat base, a vertical post, and a marker. Depending
on cost and sophistication, various mean of adjustment are provided.
Here's a "full on" engineering version:
http://www.adtdl.army.mil/cgi-bin/atdl.dll/tc/9-524/Ch1.htm#fig1_11
(your tax dollars at work!)
The second "tool" required is a flat reference surface. In
engineering this is a "surface plate", made of granite or
cast iron, and made flat to amazing tolerances.
http://www.adtdl.army.mil/cgi-bin/atdl.dll/tc/9-524/Ch1.htm#fig1_14
In use, the workpiece is sat on (or clamped to) the surface plate.
The marker of the surface gauge is set to the desired height.
The workpiece is marked by simply running the gauge around on
the surface plate with the marker touching the workpiece. In order
to give maximum access the marker often extends quite a way
over the base of the gauge.
http://www.adtdl.army.mil/cgi-bin/atdl.dll/tc/9-524/Ch1.htm#fig1_12
Note that this is very different to the use of a normal
woodworking gauge. The reference surface for a woodworking
gauge is a flat surface on the workpiece.
Now back to your bowl. (you though I'd forgotten, dintcha'?)
You need a reference surface, bigger than your bowl, and as
flat as you want the top of your bowl to be level. If you have a table
saw, that'd probably be good; failing which a fresh sheet of MDF,
or a kitchen counter top will be fine.
Surface gauge. Sounds like a simple job for a woodworker.
Now sit your bowl on the surface, set the marker, and scribe all the
way around the outside. If you made a versatile enough gauge, do the
same
(at the same level!) on the inside.
You now have a (close to) perfectly level line to work to; pencil over
it if you want it to be more visible.
Then work to this line with the tool of your choice.
BugBear