Tech: Black Rose..long
Bob Russo
error from previous work. I believe everything is correct now, but has one
odd problem & one oddity I'd like to verify with a working machine. Both
involve the 2 flashlamps in the center, bottom of the blackglass insert.
The bottom flashlamp has one side connected to 20Volts, the other to 132-3
(blue orange) on the driver board, which is connected 130-4(violet-orange)
through the driver board. Both are driven by the same transistor. The
result is the bottom flashlamp glows REALLY BRIGHTLY when the cannon motor
is spinning. Is this normal? The wiring matches the manual I have . Since
the cannon is also powered by 20volts, it's functional but it doesn't seem
that the bulb will last very long like this. (it was burned out)
The flashlamp above this one is very odd. One side connected to 20volts.
The other to 132-5 (blue-yellow) through the board to 130-5 (violet-yellow),
both driven by the same driver transistor. The violet yellow is from the
ball-release solinoid, whis is powered by 50volts.(measures 70 on this
machine). The result is that the socket has 70 volts on one side, 20 on the
other. If you plug a bulb in, it also glows REALLY BRIGHTLY as long as it's
plugged in , and it ejects a ball into the shooter lane! I havent' left
this in very long. I'm sure this is wrong, but it appears to match the
manual exactly! I'm thinking the manual might have a misprint.
Other than these items, the machine work perfectly.
Anyone with a Black Rose who can tell me:
--When the bottom center backglass flashlamp lights on their machine
--When the flashlamp above the bottom center flashlamp lights.
--What the wire colors are on connector 132-3 and 132-5
Anyother insights appreciated.
Remove the obvious in my reply address if not responding to the group
Wolffy
to help you out:
Bob Russo wrote:
>
> The bottom flashlamp has one side connected to 20Volts, the other to 132-3
> (blue orange) on the driver board, which is connected 130-4(violet-orange)
> through the driver board. Both are driven by the same transistor.
Someone was dyslexic. The bottom flasher (right above the DMD) should
be connected to 123-4. It's caption in the flashlamp test is "FIRE
BUTTON" and will flash at the same time the "FIRE" insert on the
playfield apron flashes.
> result is the bottom flashlamp glows REALLY BRIGHTLY when the cannon motor
> is spinning. Is this normal?
Ha ha! This is a trick question: No the flash lamp should not be
connected to the cannon motor, even though they both run at 20V.
However, during normal game play this flasher flashes with the fire
button, which happens when the cannon is moving. So yes it should flash
when the cannon is spinning but because the software is telling both the
cannon motor and this flashlamp (along with the cannon flashers) at the
same time.
> The flashlamp above this one is very odd. One side connected to 20volts.
> The other to 132-5 (blue-yellow) through the board to 130-5 (violet-yellow),
> both driven by the same driver transistor.
This should be connected to 123-5, in the flasher test it is labeled as
"RIGHT SWORD" and flashes at the same time the right sword on the
playfield flashes.
Also, your ball release coil (SOL 4) should not be getting 70V, it
should only get somewhere around 48V.
> --What the wire colors are on connector 132-3 and 132-5
Connection 132 is not used and should have nothing connected to it
(empty)
The pages in the manual for the power driver board are incorrect.
Williams always sucked at QA. That's why when good programers update
the code you usually see 50 bug fixes.
For the correct wiring, look at the Solenoid wiring diagram found on
page 3-8 of your manual. This has the correct wire colors and pins on
the power driver board.
-wolffy
Bob Russo
Wolffy,
You save me! Thanks so much for taking the time to look
in your machine.
It turns out connectors 123 & 124 are connected to the
same signals, with a slightly different pinout due to the
connector keys. The connector I had on 132 should have been on
124. (I thought the wires were kinda tight on 132). My manual,
dated Aug 92, says these colors go on 132 & that 124 is not
used. I've since adjusted the manual!
I can see why that when I got the machine, it was without
bulbs plugged into those two sockets.
I now looks very sharp with the backglass cannon fuse
flashing when the fire button is flashing.
A couple more part & the electrical repairs will be done,
then it's on to the mechanics. I'm not quite sure what to do
about the 50v supply being about 70volts. all the regulated
voltages are within a couple of tenths of a volt of correct.
The primary AC connector is wired for 125 volts ( at least
according to my manual :-0 ) The solinoids don't seem to be
operating too harshly, the flippers are a bit soft, but I think
that's mechanical.
You mentioned the software bugs.... I have a prom burner
at work. Is it worth updating to the L4 software?
Thanks again,
> Hello Bob! I just went and opened up my Black Rose to find a few things
to
> help you out:
>
> Bob Russo wrote:
> >
> > The bottom flashlamp has one side connected to 20Volts, the other to
132-3
> > (blue orange) on the driver board, which is connected
130-4(violet-orange)
> > through the driver board. Both are driven by the same transistor.
>
> Someone was dislexic. The bottom flasher (right above the DMD) should be
> connected to 123-4. It's caption in the flashlamp test is "FIRE BUTTON"
and
> will flash at the same time the "FIRE" insert on the playfield apron
flashes.
>
> > result is the bottom flashlamp glows REALLY BRIGHTLY when the cannon
motor
> > is spinning. Is this normal?
>
> Ha ha! This is a trick question: No the flash lamp should not be
connected
> to the cannon motor, even though they both run at 20V. However, during
> normal game play this flasher flashes with the fire button, which happens
> when the cannon is moving. So yes it should flash when the cannon is
> spinning but because the software is telling both the cannon motor and
this
> flashlamp (along with the cannon flashers) at the same time.
>
> > The flashlamp above this one is very odd. One side connected to
20volts.
> > The other to 132-5 (blue-yellow) through the board to 130-5
> (violet-yellow),
> > both driven by the same driver transistor.
>
> This should be connected to 123-5, in the flasher test it is labeled as
> "RIGHT SWORD" and flashes at the same time the right sword on the
playfield
> flashes.
>
> Also, your ball relase coil (SOL 4) should not be getting 70V, it should