TR - Lover's Leap
madeleine schultz
past weekend in hopes of knocking them off. We didn't get out of
Berkeley until 10am (after waffles!) so we got there at 1pm and it was
pretty hot. Fantasia was high on my list so we went straight there and
it was unoccupied. The first pitch is a bit unobvious - Alan spent some
time working out where to mantle over the roof and then wandered around
a bit, on a pretty run-out face. It was fun to follow though! I was
nervous about leading the second pitch but I decided to have a go and it
was fun! I didn't find it difficult, so the run-out was ok for me. And
once I spotted the huge shiny bolts above I was happy to continue,
knowing where I was meant to belay and that I would have a good anchor.
Alan thought it was a bold lead which is something coming from him. He
then went up and left past pitons on a harder section and ended up left
in the crack at the top of Haystack which he recognized but I didn't; an
easy 4th pitch finished the route. You can go right at the top
apparently but we didn't see a way to go.
We walked down and decided to look at Labour of Love. There was a party
on the Line which is only a few feet away and so we had company as Alan
led up. He pulled up their second rope, rapped down and I pinkpointed
it - my first 10a!! I skipped the crux though - having seen Alan do it
by jumping about 18 inches for a hold, with my height disadvantage I
didn't think there was any way I'd make the 30 inch jump - so I hauled
on a biner like a weenie and passed the crux that way. OK, so it was a
5.9. Still pretty thin and steep and I was happy with my lead. I know
I should try moves and take the fall to improve my climbing - some day.
It was getting late so we headed over to do the first pitch of
Anasthesia (5.8) for my last lead of the day. It was definitely easier
than Labour of Love but still scary right at the top where suddenly the
holds run out. We rapped down and found a space in a campsite with our
new friends from the Line.
Alan had trouble waking up on Sunday morning so we didn't leave camp
until 10 am. This meant that by the time we reached the base of
Traveller's Buttress, there was a party of 2 setting out and a party of
3 waiting. This is the pitch many of you have heard of me falling off
near the top - I fell 30 ft upside down and hit my head so hard my
partner thought i was dead. That was 2 years ago and this was my first
time back on that climb, so missing the first pitch was both good and
bad - I think I am climbing better, but I am definitely not psyched to
lead it! Fortunately you can walk up to the base of the second pitch,
which we did, thinking we wouldn't get in anyone's way - well they were
faster than we thought and we held up the first party a bit as Alan
struggled through the off-width. He pulled on gear to get past the hard
part. The upper part of that pitch is incredible! I had a lot of
trouble following the offwidth even after all my off-widths this summer
- I was a bit disappointed as I squirmed up and slid down before finally
getting to the key jam. I was very tired for the upper crack and found
it to have several loose blocks - surprising in such a popular route. I
managed to climb the pitch without pulling on gear.
After such an inauspicious start I was very nervous to lead the next
pitch, but Steve who was following hot on our heels in his approach
shoes (his 9th time on this climb) convinced me to at least look around
the corner, and when i did i realised that it is really very easy. So I
went around and up until I was almost out of rope, happy on the 5.easy
upper ladder of dikes. Alan led us to the top the hardest way he could
find and we looked down at Corrugation Corner - it looks much cleaner
from above.
We had time for one more climb and I wanted to do Psychadelic Tree,
although Steve had told Alan that it is a bit loose. He also told Alan
that the first two pitches can be run together with a 60 m rope - it was
my turn to lead. That was scary - possibly one of my scariest leads
(although they all feel scary at the time!!) - it has a lot of loose
blocks in the crack, I ran low on gear, I went out on the left face and
then had to delicately balance my way back to the crack while 30 ft
run-out to find more pro,... When I saw the ledge above me, it inspired
me to finish the double pitch - which I did with one cam (orange flexi
friend) and 6 nuts left of the huge rack I'd started with. I was very
happy with keeping my head together on the run-out sections - I actually
talked to myself a few times, saying "breathe, look for foot holds,
don't rush..." and for a while I was sure I was going to fall but did
the move anyway knowing I couldn't downclimb. When Alan came up he said
he was really happy that he hadn't had to lead that - a big compliment
for me! The upper pitch, although slightly harder technically, is more
solid and goes through fun roofs with solid pro - good fun.
I think after this weekend I have reached my goal of being able to lead
5.8 solidly (as long as its not the first pitch of Traveller's
Buttress!) and 5.9 with good pro. Next goal - lead 5.10a with good pro
and 5.9 confidently. Or was my goal to write my thesis and graduate?
Madeleine
Karl Lew
> Madeleine
Geoff suckered me into leading a 5.8 runout face in my approach shoes
this weekend at Courtwright (top pitch of Mousetrap). My teeth are
still chattering. Solidly.
--Karl "Thanks for the TR!"
Karl Lew
my way
> through the direct start of the second pitch...5.7 my ass...
> geoff
NOTE: Geoff then floated up the 5.10a variation.
8*) Karl
GeoffCJ
>this weekend at Courtwright (top pitch of Mousetrap). My teeth are
>still chattering. Solidly.
>--Karl "Thanks for the TR!"
Not sure how i get the blame for the approach shoes...I suggested the route,
and when Karl said he was going to do it his approach shoes, I was so impressed
I hung out on the belay ledge to see it done. Funny thing is, I seem to
remember even suggesting he might want to consider wearing his climbing shoes
which were clipped to the back of his harness!!
He did well tho...better than me on the second pitch of Dingus...Cursing my way
through the direct start of the second pitch...5.7 my ass...
=>
geoff