Many advanced thanks,
(Nice web site, by the way.)
Steve.
I'd guess that the block was originally a bit larger. The end with the nail head
was knocked off, hole drilled, nail inserted, and glued back in. Then it was
trimmed down to it's current size.
If the wood was split, not cut, and glued back together carefully with a thinned
glue and lots of pressure, the glue line would be really hard to see. Putting a
rough finish on the block of wood would effectively mask any evidence of a glue
line. I'd probably try planing one of the sides to get the smoothest possible
surface and use a magnifying glass to look for a glue line.
Joe Regan
>Is it possible that the block
>of wood was soaked in water or steamed and the top was flexed enough to
>insert
>the nail?
Joe: I examined it very closely and that does not appear to be the answer.
However, I do appreciate your try.
Jim Lillie
http://www.homestead.com/shoppage/index1.html
I can't come up with anything that doesn't involve cutting the nail or block
so that seems out. Be sure to post the solution if you ask!
Jerry
--
Jerry Fountain | Laboratory for Fluid Mechanics, Chaos, and Mixing
g...@chem-eng.nwu.edu | Northwestern University
(847) 491-3555 (Office) | Department of Chemical Engineering
(847) 491-3728 (FAX) | 2145 Sheridan Road, Evanston, IL 60208
> Is it possible that the end near the head of the nail could have been
>soaked in water, compressed to allow the nail to pass, then allowed to
>expand again?
Steve: If that is the answer, Bill certainly covered his tracks well because
it shows no sign of this on the wood. I have seen the trick with the arrow
thru a piece of wood, but the technique dosen't seem to apply here.
Dave Henderson e-mail me and wondered if the nail had a slip joint or threaded
connection hidden in the block of wood. I took it to the shop and put
vise-grips and pliers on the nail and couldn't get it to budge. Soooooo?
Jim Lillie
http://www.homestead.com/shoppage/index1.html
:)
The tree grew around the nail. The reason it's so rough cut is beacuse
he found the nail with a metal detector before a saw blade found it. He
then cut the wood by hand until he found what was setting off the metal
detector.
--
Curt Welch http://CurtWelch.Com/
cu...@kcwc.com Webmaster for http://NewsReader.Com/
Sometimes the most simple methods are overlooked.
Jim Warman,
mech...@agt.net.
Jim Lillie <kubb...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20010317125617...@ng-fo1.aol.com...
Thinking outside the box...
G
Jim,
Does it appear that the hole is large enough
to accommodate the head of the nail?
Just looking for clues....
The really frustrating part is that
now I want one, too.
>I therefore conclude that the nail is cut, inserted from both ends with a
>drop of superglue and re-jointed while in the hole.
>My guess.....
Geoff:
I went back to the shop-----put vise-grips on both ends of the nail and twisted
with all my might. The nail is still intact. I can't believe there is any
glue that would stand up to that. The mystery remains!
Jim Lillie
http://www.homestead.com/shoppage/index1.html
>If the wood was split, not cut, and glued back together carefully with a
>thinned
>glue and lots of pressure, the glue line would be really hard to see. Putting
>a
>rough finish on the block of wood would effectively mask any evidence of a
>glue
>line. I'd probably try planing one of
>the sides to get the smoothest possible
>surface and use a magnifying glass to look for a glue line.
Both ends were a rough cut so I surfaced them and took your suggestion using a
magnifying glass. I still can't detect any glue line.
Jim Lillie
http://www.homestead.com/shoppage/index1.html
OK There are only two parts to work with here.
If we assume that the nail is and always has
been in its present shape - I assume the wood
would show scorch marks if the nail had been
heated enough to bend it and then inserted -
the secret has to be in the wood.
So... What kind of wood is it?
The grain appears to be parallel with the nail. Is it?
Admitting never having used this method of shaping wood. My vote goes for
steam bending the wood until the nail can be inserted and then steam
straightening it out. Otherwide I would vote for breaking along the grain and
regluing it after inserting the nail. What bothers me about this is the smooth
hole needed long the break line to allow the nail to move freely.
Dan
Please remove nojunk to in email address to contact me.
Sorry to post so many messages in a row, but
this is starting to get to me...
Jim,
Have you tried putting it in the freezer?
In the oven?
Just wondering if temperature might have
anything to do with it.
On the other hand you are an Ex Dentist and aware of good adhesives AND you
should know a Dentist who could X-RAY it for you!
What about that then!
Best wishes,
Geoff
"Jim Lillie" <kubb...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20010317173020...@ng-bj1.aol.com...
Any more data on this?
Size of nail? (8 penny, 10? ? )
Size of block of wood or other dimensions? Such as depth of cut?
Type of wood?
Just curious really.... might try to make one myself....
Wonder how much scrap wood I have lying around?
Joe
dar...@shen-heightsaccess.net
Spam immediately resent to sender.
>Does it appear that the hole is large enough
>to accommodate the head of the nail?
Bob:
No, and the fact the nail does have a fairly large head makes me disbelieve the
softening the wood theory.
Jim Lillie
http://www.homestead.com/shoppage/index1.html
It's quite a bit to bend.
I don't think the soft wood theory works either.
But concrete nails are strong... brittle even!
It's got to be something with the wood.
Doesn't it?
>Otherwide I would vote for breaking along the grain and
>regluing it after inserting the nail.
snipped
Dan: That to me is the most likely senario, however, even with a magnifying
glass, I can't find the seam.
>This is just a guess as i can't see the picture well enought to determine the
>shape of the wood. It looks pretty rough.
>
Dan or anyone else, if you think you could solve this by actually seeing it, I
would be glad to mail it to you. The only thing I would ask would be for it to
be returned.
Reasons:
1. the nail did not break under pressure from Jim
2. concrete nails are brittle so they dont bend well.
3. the wood appears to have a very large grain pattern to it.
4. the hole had to be *drilled* to be round for the nail.
5. the cuts in the wood appear to be made with a dado blade
6. no glue lines are apparent
7. the depth of the nail from the surface of the wood would tend to indicate
that the compression required was not substantial. it look like he only
needed about 1/4 inch of compression - totally possible.
8. all the work is parallel to the grain - a requirement for compression to
work.
I just read about the arrow through the block in an old issue of one of the
woodworking magazines. It would appear that he has used the same technique.
Instead of asking Bill how he did that, you could approach him with the
solution and see if that was right with the condition that if it is not
correct, to not *get* the correct solution. That way, if you are wrong, you
can ask again later.
Good luck.
Rob
p.s. will have to try this one myself...
Jim Lillie <kubb...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20010317125617...@ng-fo1.aol.com...
Mike.
"Jim & Debb Warman" <mech...@agt.net> wrote in message
news:S5Qs6.29663$tr5.3...@news1.telusplanet.net...
Bob: The wood is poplar and the grain does run parallel with the nail.
Jim Lillie
http://www.homestead.com/shoppage/index1.html
How well I know the feeling! This has been bugging me for days.
>Have you tried putting it in the freezer?
>In the oven?
>
No, but I'm getting desparate enough to try most anything.
Jim Lillie
http://www.homestead.com/shoppage/index1.html
>Any more data on this?
>Size of nail?
Appears to be 8d
>Size of block of wood or other dimensions?
1 1/2" square x 3 3/4" long
>Such as depth of cut?
7/8"
>Type of wood?
Poplar
Jim Lillie
http://www.homestead.com/shoppage/index1.html
>AND you
>should know a Dentist who could X-RAY it for you!
snipped
Geoff:
You may be on to something but would probably be too expensive. You know how
much those damned dentists charge!
On 17 Mar 2001 17:56:17 GMT, kubb...@aol.com (Jim Lillie) wrote:
> Bill Perkins (members of the International Wood Collectors Society will
> recognize this name) visited my shop recently and left me a puzzle of his
> making. For the life of me I can't figure out how he did it and I don't want
> to give Bill the satisfaction by asking him. Therefore I am appealing to
> sharper minds than mine to explain it to me. Go to my shop page below and
> navigate to the puzzle. In no way has the block of wood been split and
re-glued
> or has the nail been cut in two. The first one to solve the puzzle
> gets-----------my undying gratitude.
>
> Many advanced thanks,
>
> Jim Lillie
> http://www.homestead.com/shoppage/index1.html
This is a crude example of a class of puzzles called "Impossible Objects".
There are a number of techniques for constructing these things. A nice
collection can be seen at:
http://johnrausch.com/PuzzleWorld/impossib.htm
Check out the Tooth And Nail puzzle by Saul Bob roff. This is an example
similar to your puzzler except that the nail passes through two center
blocks instead of one and the craftsmanship is superior. The puzzle is
made of 1 solid block of wood with a solid nail. Neither has been cut.
The secrets of this arcane trade are tightly held.
Enjoy the puzzles!
--
Steve Strickland, Puzzlecraft
st...@puzzlecraft.com
www.puzzlecraft.com
...lew...
Jim Lillie <kubb...@aol.com> wrote in article
<20010317125617...@ng-fo1.aol.com>...
> Bill Perkins (members of the International Wood Collectors
Society will
> recognize this name) visited my shop recently and left me a
puzzle of his
> making. For the life of me I can't figure out how he did it
and I don't want
> to give Bill the satisfaction by asking him. Therefore I am
appealing to
> sharper minds than mine to explain it to me. Go to my shop
page below and
> navigate to the puzzle. In no way has the block of wood been
split and re-glued
> or has the nail been cut in two. The first one to solve the
puzzle
> gets-----------my undying gratitude.
>
> Many advanced thanks,
>
> Jim Lillie
> http://www.homestead.com/shoppage/index1.html
>
My guess is that he split the wood along the grain and used a
very thin glue, such as super glue, to glue it back together.
He probably just kept making them until he got one that has a
perfect invisible seam.
That's my guess and I'm sticking to it (no pun intended)......
> http://johnrausch.com/PuzzleWorld/impossib.htm
>
> Check out the Tooth And Nail puzzle by Saul Bob roff. This is an example
> similar to your puzzler except that the nail passes through two center
> blocks instead of one and the craftsmanship is superior. The puzzle is
> made of 1 solid block of wood with a solid nail. Neither has been cut.
>
> The secrets of this arcane trade are tightly held.
If neither has been cut, then one of them must have been bent. The
wood seems to be the most likely answer.
--
Curt Welch http://CurtWelch.Com/
cu...@kcwc.com Webmaster for http://NewsReader.Com/
Lokking at the picture again, and some of the other ideas, I think I agree
the answer lies with the wood.
What if ... this was made with a piece of GREEN wood. That would help with
some of the rough edges. It was dadoed, the thin edge bent back a bit and
out of the way for a drill bit, then the nail. Finally the edge was bent
back to 90 degrees, and held with a clamp for a few weeks / months and the
wood allowed to dry.
Sound plausable?
Jerry
--
Jerry Fountain | Laboratory for Fluid Mechanics, Chaos, and Mixing
g...@chem-eng.nwu.edu | Northwestern University
(847) 491-3555 (Office) | Department of Chemical Engineering
(847) 491-3728 (FAX) | 2145 Sheridan Road, Evanston, IL 60208
Where's Agent Mulder when you need him?
Greg
Jim Lillie wrote:
> Bill Perkins (members of the International Wood Collectors Society will
> recognize this name) visited my shop recently and left me a puzzle of his
> making. For the life of me I can't figure out how he did it and I don't want
> to give Bill the satisfaction by asking him. Therefore I am appealing to
> sharper minds than mine to explain it to me. Go to my shop page below and
> navigate to the puzzle. In no way has the block of wood been split and re-glued
> or has the nail been cut in two. The first one to solve the puzzle
> gets-----------my undying gratitude.
>
is) leaving what looks like only 1/2 inch of wood holding it together.
If you were to put it in to a vise and steam it, you could easily bend it using
the length as leverage.
then cut it off at 6" like they did and let people wonder how it was done.
Just my theory....
If im wrong please let me know how it was done...
charlie.
John L. Knoefler
John L. Knoefler
>
>Check out the "washer" puzzle on this page. Very similar.
>http://www.miclog.com/jim/puzzle.html
>
C'mon, spill the beans. How the heck does the washer get out?
Cheers
Nuno Souto
nso...@bigpond.net.au.nospam
http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/the_Den/index.html
>did you say the nail moved freely if so would it still move freely if
>the tree had grown around it?
I could go for this one...
> On Sun, 18 Mar 2001 02:53:23 GMT, Jack <ja...@cheese.com> wrote:
>
> >
> >Check out the "washer" puzzle on this page. Very similar.
> >http://www.miclog.com/jim/puzzle.html
> >
>
> C'mon, spill the beans. How the heck does the washer get out?
Like the guy says at the bottom of his page:
"Need a solution to one of the puzzles?
Send a check for $10 made out to Jim Lewis...."
--
Regards,
Benoit Evans
Could this be a variation of the arrow through the hole?
Make the dados in the block. Soak/steam/compress one end so that a
drill clears the top. Drill the center piece, insert the nail, then
reexpand the end.
Liz
>Bill Perkins (members of the International Wood Collectors Society will
>recognize this name) visited my shop recently and left me a puzzle of his
>making. For the life of me I can't figure out how he did it and I don't want
>to give Bill the satisfaction by asking him. Therefore I am appealing to
>sharper minds than mine to explain it to me. Go to my shop page below and
>navigate to the puzzle. In no way has the block of wood been split and re-glued
>or has the nail been cut in two. The first one to solve the puzzle
>gets-----------my undying gratitude.
>
>Many advanced thanks,
>
>Jim Lillie
>http://www.homestead.com/shoppage/index1.html
hmmm..... are you absolutely sure the nail goes through???? could be 2 peices
then each glued in. only would appear to be what it looks like! just a guess
Alan
Dennis:
No conspiracy-----for some reason the puzzle navigation button loads slowly.
Try it again and let the page fully load.
Sorry about that!
Jim Lillie
http://www.homestead.com/shoppage/index1.html
It doesn't need to be a little shorter. If you start with
two nails and cut correctly the resulting re-joined nail
could be be made the correct length.
If it didn't, it would be easy for it to work loose as you were carving
the rest of the wood away.
But seeing all the other similar puzzles, I don't like my "tree grew around
it theory" anymore.
I thought about that. I found a piece of barb wire in a chunk of walnut
I was turning once. It was rusted, but still easy to identify. The tree
had grown around the fence.
I was wondering if concrete nails were made out of somthing (or coated)
so they they would stand up to moisture (common in concrete) much longer.
I really would like to know the answer to that one as well.
The wood might not be one piece. Some puzzles work because
what looks like one piece is really two and they can slide open somehow.
But if the wood is one piece, and the washer is a normal washer, and
the nail can't move enough to free the washer, then the nail must
not be one piece. Maybe it unscreews? I'd try simply unscrewing
the head of the nail.
Jim,
One of the other readers of this newsgroup sent me a URl that I used to
view the puzzle ( thanks Dick). http://www.homestead.com/shoppage/Puzzle.html
After looking at it the only way I can see to get the nail there is
this, assuming the nail has not been altered: take a piece of wood several feet
long and make the two cuts in the middle of it, then using a jig apply steam to
the area around the cuts and slowly bend untill the middle section where the
nail is shown is exposed enough to drill a hole large enough to slip the nail
in. Then restraighten the board and saw off as shown.
If there is another way of doing it without cutting the nail into pieces I
sure don't know how it could be done. If someone else put this soultion forward
I apologize. I would not plagarize intentionally but I did not have time to go
thru all the 50 plus posts. Of course great minds do run in the same channels.
LOL.
Dennis
Jim Warman
mech...@agt.net
Nuno Souto <nso...@nsw.bigpond.net.au.nospam> wrote in message
news:3ab48025.13057129@news-server...
Click on the button labelled "Puzzle". If you don't see one, it's probably due
to your browser, or browser settings. You need a frames-capable browser, with
images and JavaScript enabled.
Or you can go directly to the puzzle page at this URL:
http://www.homestead.com/shoppage/Puzzle.html
--
dlmiller/at/netdirect/dot/net
Ted Kennedy's car has killed more people than my gun.
No where near enough (not much at all in fact).
Are you opposed to soaking the puzzle in some warm water. Maybe even boiling
the thing. or even soaking the puzzle in some acetone ( to disolve the super
glue). I think that would answer any of the glue questions unless your friend
used a type II wood glue. Other wise I prefer to believe the wood was once a
larger piece of wood dadoed and bent like others have suggested.
Leo
> it's an allusion, there is no nail, there is no wood block, it's all done
with
> suggestive thought projection. The same trick that allows us to read this
news
> group.
Does anybody really know what time it is? Does anyone really care?
Why does existential stuff always remind me of Chicago songs? You would
think it would at least be the Moody Blues!
Michael
I thought the expression was
"It's all done with mirors " :-)
...lew...
>Hey Jim,
>
>Are you opposed to soaking the puzzle in some warm water. Maybe even boiling
>the thing.
Leo:
In the interest of science I will do as you suggest. Will post answer shortly.
Jim Lillie
http://www.homestead.com/shoppage/index1.html