New Hampshire, Whitehorse, White Mountains ? ? ?
Mr. Insight
I'm trying to get the low-down on the best areas in NH to do some
climbing.
I live in Louisville, KY and am driving to Plymouth, NH next month.
Traditional, multi-pitch routes would be nice, but I also like sport
routes and TR's.
Please post any recommendations or caveats about areas your familiar
with.
I'm meeting some old friends of mine who go to school at Plymouth
College and wouldn't mind meeting interested parties for some climbing
around May 16-22.
Michael Robards
***a...@quickmail.ucsf.edu***
In article <3362B3...@insightsystem.com>, "Mr. Insight"
<mrob...@insightsystem.com> wrote:
> I'm trying to get the low-down on the best areas in NH to do some
> climbing.
Though I now live in San Francisco, I learned to climb in NH and spent
many years climbing there. I never climbed REALLY hard stuff, so my
recommendations will be in the 5.5-5.11 range. That said, I have a few
suggestions for you.
1) Mid May is the beginning black fly season. Be prepared for the worst
swarms of evil welt-inducing winged vermin you've ever imagined in your
worst nightmares.
2) Cathedral and Whitehorse Ledges are extremely popular due to easy
access, proximity to North Conway (a good place to feed and get supplies),
terrific granite and spectacular routes. Here are a few of my favorites
(all great routes regardless of difficulty)...
Cathedral Ledge:
Thin Air - Multi pitch, mostly face, 5.6
Funhouse - 5.7 corner/crack linked to Upper Refuse - 5.5 corner/ramp
Recompense w/ Beast Flake Variation - AWESOME 5.9ish crack/flake/corner 5
or 6 inspiring pitches
The Prow - 5.11+ incredible route. Sustained multipitch crack/corner and
face 5ish pitches
Shorter routes:
Bombardment - 5.8 hand crack
Nutcracker - 5.9+ hand crack excellent!
Airation - 5.11 finger crack
Book of Solemnity - 2 pitch 5.9+ corner system... very airy
Whitehorse Ledge:
Slabs Direct - run out 5.7-8 friction, long route w/ beatiful rock
Sliding board - 5.7ish friction. Scary run out on he crux... 75 feet up,
clip the bolt, 75 more feet, clip the belay. eek.
Science Friction Wall - 5.11- face, excellent multi-pitch
Dream of the Unicorn (or something like that) - 5.10 face, multi pitch
shorter routes:
ethereal crack - short classic tips crack 5.10+
Seventh Seal 5.10- finger crack, right next to ethereal
There are many more superb routes, but I'm having trouble remebering
details.. check in at IME or EMS, two North Conway climbing shops/guide
services, for beta and guidebooks.
If you have a chance, Cannon cliff has some spectacular semi-alpine
feeling wall routes in the 800 foot high range. Access is a bit of a
trudge, routefinding can be a bear and the variable weather and high
commitment factor on some routes are VERY REAL concerns. I recommend:
Moby Grape - 5.8. Incredible views, climbing and exposure. Use Reppy's
Crack as the first pitch variant for a beautiful classic hand crack in the
5.8-9 range. This is a LONG route (10ish pitches), so get an early start.
Whitney Gilman Ridge - 5.7 classic ridge climb. Crazy exposure.
Lakeview - 5.5 pretty dull up until the stellar final two pitches that
scale the famous "old man of the mountains".
There are great hard routes up the wall, but I would not recommend
attempting them without a local, as they are commiting, long and
sustained.
(VMC direct, VMC direct direct, Fruit cup wall (some aid) etc...)
Other cliffs to check out -
Sundown Ledge - Rough Boys and Vultures are two excellent, short 10s
Humphreys Ledge - Castaways (pretty hard for a 10) and Robinson Crusoe -
Short, fun 10s
Rumney - many crags with sport routes and bouldering
HAVE FUN!
al
--
My real name is Al Day
al_...@quickmail.ucsf.edu
Peter Fielding
Regarding your request for NH beta, I have always been a huge fan of
Franconia Notch, otherwise known as Cannon Cliff (see this months issue of
R&I). Outside of Baffin Island, it is the only big wall climbing on the
east coast: many 12-15 pitch climbs anywhere from 5.4 to hard 5.11 along
with several total aid routes. Steep, relatively solid granite (occasional
loose bolders falling around, just be aware....definitely where a helmut at
all times). The month of May might be a bit early because it may still be
a little wet, but it will depend upon the weather. Other than Cannon,
check out Whitehorse and Cathedral, both excellent faces: whitehorse is all
friction climbing, and Cathedral is all very steep granite. For sport
climbing, check out Rumney. If you don't mind a little drive and have some
time, head to the other side of Lake Champlain to the Adirondacks: Poco
Moonshine, Avalanche Lake, Spiders Web, Keene, etc all offer spectacular
granite with many long routes. Good luck and have fun.
Peter Fielding
Mr. Insight <mrob...@insightsystem.com> wrote in article
<3362B3...@insightsystem.com>...
Flyfish29
Check out the March issue of climbing mag. It has a cover story about the
whites, etc. I will be going in June-July...Hopw to get on Cathederal
Ledge, etc.
Good Luck