Elmer's Glue vs. Titebond
Douglas Stockman
Greetings,
What is the difference between Elmer's yellow wood glue and Titebond wood
glue? By appearance, they both seem similar. Why should I use one over the
other? Thanks in advance.
Douglas Stockman
ds...@uhura.cc.rochester.edu
Gary Reynolds
Douglas: I have used both for several years and find no difference
whatsoever. I used Titebond for years and did not care about switching
until one of my suppliers switched to Elmers. I tried it reluctantly
and could not tell the difference. Elmers is all I use now. It is also
a little cheaper than Titebond which was always overpriced in my opinion
anyway. Regards, Gary
--
Gary Reynolds Ltd
828 Old Boiling Springs Rd 704-487-0591 voice
Shelby, NC 28152 704-484-8255 fax
http://www.ebeniste.com mailto:ga...@vistatech.net
David E Whiting
Frank Klausz uses white mostly... If its good enough for him then, :-
dw
Gary Reynolds <ga...@vistatech.net> wrote in article
<32F4BF...@vistatech.net>...
Mike Glennon
There isn't any diffrence I've ever noticed. Only reason for one over the
other is which ever is cheaper. I've been rapidly working my way through
a large bottle of true value hardware store yellow glue (it was even
cheaper), and have noticed no diffrence there either. Though I would
suspect it is mfg'd for true value by tightbond or Elmers then packaged
under the true value name. I was this ex[pectation that led me to buy it
in the first place.
Mike G. (mtco...@marsweb.com)
Lolo Mt.
Dr. Stereo
Douglas Stockman wrote:
>
> Greetings,
>
> What is the difference between Elmer's yellow wood glue and Titebond wood
> glue? By appearance, they both seem similar. Why should I use one over the
> other? Thanks in advance.
>
> Douglas Stockman
> ds...@uhura.cc.rochester.edu
The yellow Titebond seems to be as good as Elmers but stay away from the
new "all-weather" Titebond. I used it to glu up a kalidascope and the
joints failed.
Jim
Kerry Thalmann
Dr. Stereo wrote:
> The yellow Titebond seems to be as good as Elmers but stay away from the
> new "all-weather" Titebond. I used it to glu up a kalidascope and the
> joints failed.
Hi Jim,
Egads! Thanks for the warning. I am just starting to build a wooden
camera and planned to use Titebond II since the camera will be used
outdoors and exposed to the elements. What glue would you recommend
for such useage?
Kerry
Mike Rowan
I've been using the Titebond II for several years now and have never had
a failure. I use it almost every day. My question is how and why did
Jim's joints fail? It might not be just the glue's fault. Stale glue,
been frozen, too much clamp pressure, below 55°, not enough glue, cure
time, etc., etc., etc.
Mike
Kevin W. Tucker
>I've been using the Titebond II for several years now and have never had
>a failure. I use it almost every day. My question is how and why did
>Jim's joints fail? It might not be just the glue's fault. Stale glue,
>been frozen, too much clamp pressure, below 55°, not enough glue, cure
>time, etc., etc., etc.
>
I too, have been using Titebond II for a number of years with no problems
EXCEPT when I dared use it in (too) cold weather - it turned white and the
joints failed, but it was certainly my fault for ignoring the label.
Kevin
ktu...@scsn.net
r s herman
Kerry Thalmann wrote:
>
> Dr. Stereo wrote:
>
> > The yellow Titebond seems to be as good as Elmers but stay away from the
> > new "all-weather" Titebond. I used it to glu up a kalidascope and the
> > joints failed.
>
> Hi Jim,
>
> Egads! Thanks for the warning. I am just starting to build a wooden
> camera and planned to use Titebond II since the camera will be used
> outdoors and exposed to the elements. What glue would you recommend
> for such useage?
>
> Kerry
If you really want "waterproof" go with the epoxies. In addition to gap
filling quality, you can easily add fillers for strength, etc. You can
also easily tailor set-up times, but remember fast set ups equal short
pot life. You also have minimum clamping requirements.
Roger H. The Fort Wayne sawdust manufacturer.
--
Life is too important to take seriously.
Douglas Stockman
Thanks to all who replied regarding Elmer's vs Titebond yellow glues. There
is general agreement that they work essentially the same with only slight
differences in viscosity. Thanks!
Douglas Stockman
Jim Proctor
Kerry Thalmann wrote:
>
> Dr. Stereo wrote:
>
> > The yellow Titebond seems to be as good as Elmers but stay away from the
> > new "all-weather" Titebond. I used it to glu up a kalidascope and the
> > joints failed.
>
> Hi Jim,
>
> Egads! Thanks for the warning. I am just starting to build a wooden
> camera and planned to use Titebond II since the camera will be used
> outdoors and exposed to the elements. What glue would you recommend
> for such useage?
>
> Kerry
Have you tried any of the urethene glues such as "Gorilla Glue?. This
stuff claims to be waterproof. I haven't personally tested this
attribute, but it works ok for me.
Jim
Kerry Thalmann
Kevin W. Tucker wrote:
> I too, have been using Titebond II for a number of years with no problems
> EXCEPT when I dared use it in (too) cold weather - it turned white and the
> joints failed, but it was certainly my fault for ignoring the label.
Hi Kevin,
Thanks for the info. I'll make sure to follow the directions on the label.
Kerry
Kerry Thalmann
r s herman wrote:
>
> If you really want "waterproof" go with the epoxies. In addition to gap
> filling quality, you can easily add fillers for strength, etc. You can
> also easily tailor set-up times, but remember fast set ups equal short
> pot life. You also have minimum clamping requirements.
Hi Roger,
Thanks for the input. I'll consider using an epoxy. While we're are
on the subject, is there a specific brand or type of epoxy you would
recommend for attaching small pieces of veneer to metal (aluminum)?
I am building a camera and have canabalized parts from other old
cameras. Some of the borrowed metal parts originally had decorative
bits of leather trim. I want to replace this leather trim with
cherry veneer to match the body of the camera (which I am building
out of quartersawn cherry). Thanks in advance for any advice. I'm
just getting back into woodworking after a 15 year hiatus, so I am
not up to speed on all the latest adhesives.
Kerry
Kerry Thalmann
Mike Rowan wrote:
>
> Kerry Thalmann wrote:
> >
> > Dr. Stereo wrote:
> >
> > > The yellow Titebond seems to be as good as Elmers but stay away from the
> > > new "all-weather" Titebond. I used it to glu up a kalidascope and the
> > > joints failed.
> >
> > Hi Jim,
> >
> > Egads! Thanks for the warning. I am just starting to build a wooden
> > camera and planned to use Titebond II since the camera will be used
> > outdoors and exposed to the elements. What glue would you recommend
> > for such useage?
> >
> > Kerry
>
> a failure. I use it almost every day. My question is how and why did
> Jim's joints fail? It might not be just the glue's fault. Stale glue,
> been frozen, too much clamp pressure, below 55°, not enough glue, cure
> time, etc., etc., etc.
>
Hi Mike,
Thanks for the info. Titebond II was actually recommended by someone who
makes wooden cameras for a living. He has been in business for over ten
years and is quite successful, so he must be doing something (many things,
actually) right.
Kerry
Kerry Thalmann
Jim Proctor wrote:
> Have you tried any of the urethene glues such as "Gorilla Glue?. This
> stuff claims to be waterproof. I haven't personally tested this
> attribute, but it works ok for me.
Hi Jim,
No, I have not tried Gorilla Glue. Actually, I have never used anything
other than good old Elmers. I am just getting back into woodworking
after a 15 year absence. It seems like there are many more choices
these days. This is good, but can be a bit overwhelming. Based on
the other replies I have seen here, and the advice of someone who builds
wooden cameras for a living, I'll probably end up using Titebond II (at
least for my first camera). I'll be careful to follow the label
directions. If it holds up well, I'll stick with it (sorry). If not,
then I consider switching for future projects.
Kerry
Mathsgr8
Although I have not used Gorilla Gluye, I have used Excel which is the
same thing. I made some fishing nets and used Excel because I wanted
something waterproof. I was quite pleased with the result. I offer the
follwing observations.
1. The glue is brown in color and would leave a dark line in light
colored wood.
2. When dry, the glue sands well.
3. It is gap filling.
Chuck Clark
Lee
r s herman <rog...@fortwayne.infi.net> wrote in article
<32F5FE...@fortwayne.infi.net>...
> Kerry Thalmann wrote:
> >
> > Dr. Stereo wrote:
> >
> > > The yellow Titebond seems to be as good as Elmers but stay away from
the
> > > new "all-weather" Titebond. I used it to glu up a kalidascope and
the
> > > joints failed.
> >
Hmm, unless the Titebond II isn't the same stuff as the all-weather you
mentioned, I seemed to not have had a problem. I've used it for furniture,
work tables and an outdoor table. Maybe it makes a difference of the
"area" of glue surface? Not doubting your word for a second, just curious.
And then again, I haven't bought any for a year or so either.
Lee
ralph umphfres
If you use Gorilla Glue be sure to wet the suface first. It does not
have to be evenly spread over the joint as long as it is wet.
ralph umphfres
I have been using the Titebond II for childern's toys to be used
outdoors and have had no problems except when I let the shop temp get
too cold. It turned white and failed to adhere properly. I see that
Norm has gone to using Gorila Glue on the show.
ralph
Mike Roten
Dr. Stereo wrote:
> the new "all-weather" Titebond. I used it to glu up a kalidascope and the
> joints failed.
>
> Jim
You did'nt mention the wood you used. That might have been a factor.
If you made the piece from an oily wood such as cocobolo or
goncalo-alves, the only glue to use would have been epoxy.
Just a thought.
Mike
Howard Moskovitz
Douglas Stockman wrote:
> What is the difference between Elmer's yellow wood glue and Titebond wood
> glue? By appearance, they both seem similar. Why should I use one over the
> other? Thanks in advance.
There is basically no difference between them. They are both water-based
yellow aliphatic resin and work about as well. I use Titebond II myself
for its water resistant properties (ever since a flood caused some of my
projects to fall apart :( ). Nowadays I use Gorilla glue mostly but will
try out the new Titebond polyurethane which is cheaper.
Howard
whi...@net1plus.com
Do u use Gorilla glue for everything now ?? What advantages does it have for standard gluing i.e. edge joing etc.
TIA
dw
Howard Moskovitz
Kevin W. Tucker wrote:
> I too, have been using Titebond II for a number of years with no problems
> EXCEPT when I dared use it in (too) cold weather - it turned white and the
> joints failed, but it was certainly my fault for ignoring the label.
>
What you experienced is known as 'chalking' (due to the white chalky
residue you noticed at the edges of the joint. Most water based glues
cannot be used or stored at temperatures lower than 45 degrees F. If you
have glue that was left out in cold weather (below 45) toss it - it is
no longer any good.
Good luck,
Howard
I2111040
> Nowadays I use Gorilla glue mostly but will
>try out the new Titebond polyurethane which is cheaper.
I tried the new Titebond Polyurethane glue and found that it was so thick it
is difficult to squeeze out of the bottle. Thinking that I might have a bad batch I called
Titebond on the 800 number and they said that they have had a fair number of
complaints and were reformulating the glue. The very helpful and cheerful person
I spoke to said that if I purchase a new bottle in about a month that it would be
thinner. He pointed out that Titebond had formulated the glue to be about
twice as thick as competitor's products to avoid certain problems, but that apparetnly they
overdid it. He also suggested that warming the glue up to as much as 90 degrees
(my basement work shop is at 60 degrees during the winter) would help.
My advice is to wait a month before you try it.
Terry Ilardi
Bill Moore
I2111040@ wrote:
I've had the same experience with it being thick. I wonder if warming it
in a microwave oven would harm it. Otherwise placing the container in a
pot of hot water for awhile would warm it up.