Performance Upgrade ?'s
Ron
upgrades I should do and in what order.
Thanks,
Ron
'96 Montego Blue
Team Base Model
Lanny Chambers
>I have a '96 base model. What are the most cost effective performance
>upgrades I should do and in what order.
This is my personal opinion:
1. Tires - if you're serious about performance, buy a set of OEM or other
lightweight alloy wheels and sticky summer tires (RE-71, SP8000, AVSi,
Proxes T-1 if you get 15" wheels); depending on where you live, you may
need to change tires for the winter. Heavy alloy wheels will hurt
performance.
2. Track instruction, or at least an autocross school. Biggest bang for
the buck, no question. You may need a rollbar for some tracks; just do it,
since in addition to the safety aspect, it will also add more chassis
stiffness than anything else you can buy.
Once you learn to use what you have to its potential, then:
3. Shocks, if yours have more than 30,000 miles on them. Might as well get
Konis up front, since you'll probably want them eventually. What about
springs? They are mostly for looks, and will place hard limits on where
you can drive once your ground clearance drops below 4". If you must slam
your Miata, do it at the same time as the shocks, since the labor is the
same.
4. Swaybars. I like the FM bars. You won't need a 15/16" front bar for the
street.
5. Torsen limited-slip differential retrofit. Expensive, but essential for
the best performance. The main reason not to buy a base Miata, FWIW.
If you're planning on driving over 80 mph, the factory chin spoiler adds
stability. Rear spoilers are just for looks. If you ever drive at night,
upgrade the headlights with Hella, Cibie, or other European H-4 units. Get
a set of airhorns.
Notice that we haven't opened the hood yet. Once the suspension is tuned,
you must decide on your ultimate power goal: stock, a little more than
stock, quite a bit more than stock...or Porsche-eater. These steps are
mostly non-upgradable, so you'll usually have to remove and sell one kit
before buying and installing the next. None of them is a particularly good
value, considering the modest power gained (unless you go for the max and
money is no object).
- Stock: You may find you've already got what you need, once you learn to
use it fully. You might add a catback or muffler for a sportier sound, but
don't expect any real power gain without more mods.
- A little more: Jackson Racing CAI and high-flow cat, plus a free-flow
exhaust chosen for its sound. $750-1000 (none of these estimates include
labor), about 15 more rear wheel horsepower and better throttle response.
Cone filters make a nice noise, but no extra power; they also do not
filter as well as the OEM paper cartridge. Transparent and trouble free,
if not very cost effective.
- Quite a bit more: Sebring supercharger or entry-level turbo (6 psi).
$2700-3500 depending on how bulletproof you make it, about 40 more rwhp.
More maintenance than stock. Most of a turbo system can be upgraded.
- Porsche-eater: Intercooled turbo (10-14 psi). $5000 and up, including a
replacement computer and the stronger clutch you'll need. 75-150 rwhp on
top of your present ~110. At this point, you should also be thinking about
brake upgrades, and should add a rollbar if you haven't already got one.
Don't even think about doing this if you don't enjoy tinkering while the
rest of us are driving. :-)
---
Lanny Chambers, St. Louis, USA
'94C
Got Red?
Cadman
>I have a '96 base model. What are the most cost effective performance
>upgrades I should do and in what order.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Ron
>'96 Montego Blue
>Team Base Model
1) Rollbar, four or five point such as a Hard Dog.
2) Track time/school.
Try at least one track event before you make any decisions about
performance upgrades. Your thinking may be very different after the
event, and in any case, you'll get some good advice as to what
modifications are most cost effective. You should definitely have an
instructor drive your car. If you can approach what he/she is doing,
then upgrades would be the next logical step.
Oh yes, one more thing... track events are a blast!
Good Luck
Mike
and
Simone - Black 97
Bill Keksz
wrote:
>In article <37291fd8...@news.tca.net>, r...@howdyags.com wrote:
>
>>I have a '96 base model. What are the most cost effective performance
>>upgrades I should do and in what order.
>
>This is my personal opinion:
>
>1. Tires - if you're serious about performance, buy a set of OEM or other
>lightweight alloy wheels and sticky summer tires (RE-71, SP8000, AVSi,
>Proxes T-1 if you get 15" wheels); depending on where you live, you may
>need to change tires for the winter. Heavy alloy wheels will hurt
>performance.
>
Or maybe just new tires on current steel rims, depending on what "cost
effective" means. What tires do you have now? If they are already
upgraded, & have sufficient tread, just wear them out until you get to
know the car... 15" alloys, even OEMs, will cost ya.
Don't forget brake pads! - I changed mine to Axxix metal masters @
only 24000 mi; others may be a better choice, according to some, in
cold weather.
>2. Track instruction, or at least an autocross school. Biggest bang for
>the buck, no question. You may need a rollbar for some tracks; just do it,
>since in addition to the safety aspect, it will also add more chassis
>stiffness than anything else you can buy.
>
Gotta agree there - I'm doing this is summer.
>Once you learn to use what you have to its potential, then:
>
>3. Shocks, if yours have more than 30,000 miles on them. Might as well get
>Konis up front, since you'll probably want them eventually. What about
>springs? They are mostly for looks, and will place hard limits on where
>you can drive once your ground clearance drops below 4". If you must slam
>your Miata, do it at the same time as the shocks, since the labor is the
>same.
Remember the koni's will let you slightly lower the car. Why only
front? Rears seem to wear out quicker for some. Heck, thay may be
already worn out - what does your SOP tell you?
>
>4. Swaybars. I like the FM bars. You won't need a 15/16" front bar for the
>street.
>
>5. Torsen limited-slip differential retrofit. Expensive, but essential for
>the best performance.
But you're talking $$$ here!
The main reason not to buy a base Miata, FWIW.
>
Not to mention any "Touring" package...
>If you're planning on driving over 80 mph, the factory chin spoiler adds
>stability. Rear spoilers are just for looks. If you ever drive at night,
>upgrade the headlights with Hella, Cibie, or other European H-4 units. Get
>a set of airhorns.
>
>Notice that we haven't opened the hood yet....
Just bump the timing for now.
IMHO, from a cheaper perspective:
0 - join the local club & ask for advice. Ask an experienced member
or two to check the car. Enjoy the resulting argument...
1 - brake pads
2 - tires if necessary
3 - shocks if needed
4 - bump timing
5 - instruction, with roll bar if needed
6 - front shock tower bar, other reinforcements (did 96 base come with
all the rear bracing?)
7 - sways, tires, shocks as you see fit
8 - now for the serious engine mods...
- bill
Red97L
reser...@my-dejanews.com
> 5. Torsen limited-slip differential retrofit. Expensive, but essential for
Whoa - before you go slandering all base Miatas, from 90-92 LSD was an option
available with any package. I know 'cause that's what I've got!
Dave & Buster - '90 Blue
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t.r.mcloughlin
> (Lanny Chambers) wrote:
> > 5. Torsen limited-slip differential retrofit. Expensive, but
essential for
> > the best performance. The main reason not to buy a base Miata,
FWIW.
> Whoa - before you go slandering all base Miatas, from 90-92 LSD was
an option
> available with any package. I know 'cause that's what I've got!
Torsen or viscous?
trm
'91 BRG #1528
107,771 mi.
reser...@my-dejanews.com
>
> > Whoa - before you go slandering all base Miatas, from 90-92 LSD was
> an option
> > available with any package. I know 'cause that's what I've got!
>
> Torsen or viscous?
Oops, you got me. My '90 has merely the VSLD.
d&b
mark_p...@my-dejanews.com
1. TIRES - this is the single most important change you can make.
2. Driving school
3. Depending on goals... Suspension or engine work from here.
Mark
> I have a '96 base model. What are the most cost effective performance
> upgrades I should do and in what order.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ron
> '96 Montego Blue
> Team Base Model
>
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