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Reciprocating Saws On A Car

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BRS

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Sep 1, 2002, 1:47:24 AM9/1/02
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I'm in the market for a saw for dismantling a "parts car".. I've been
told the Sawzall supposedly cuts everything and it's the best.
(Haven't used one) I also know that there are a couple of different
versions of the Sawzall and various competitors who are generally less
expensive.

Where everything gets hazy is: How well do these things cut apart
cars, engine mounts, possibly pieces of the frame? Is the Sawzall
worth the extra money? Are there any features that make it easier for
one saw to cut metal that set it above and apart from another?

Do the air powered ones work as well as the electric powered ones?

Thanks.

py...@te9xas.net

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Sep 1, 2002, 1:58:00 AM9/1/02
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They can cut nearly everything. I have several.
Get the one that you can hold straight out at arms length
like a hand gun for 5 minutes.

SoCalMike

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Sep 1, 2002, 2:59:48 AM9/1/02
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> Where everything gets hazy is: How well do these things cut apart
> cars, engine mounts, possibly pieces of the frame? Is the Sawzall

youd want a torch or grinder for that. angle grinders rock.

> worth the extra money? Are there any features that make it easier for
> one saw to cut metal that set it above and apart from another?

i use a $40 harbor freight one. havent taken a car apart with it, but ive
cut a lot of wood. should work well.

might as well get a $20 angle grinder from harbor freight too, for the
thicker stuff. itll save a lot of money on blades.

pros use oxyacetelene torches tho


>
> Do the air powered ones work as well as the electric powered ones?

no... dont waste your time with one.
>
> Thanks.


Duncan Wood

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Sep 2, 2002, 8:03:54 AM9/2/02
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"SoCalMike" <mikein562...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:EVic9.256227$me6.33641@sccrnsc01...

Depends what you're cutting, air saws cut bodywork lovely,

> >
> > Thanks.
>
>


Nate B

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Sep 2, 2002, 1:59:17 PM9/2/02
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"BRS"

> I'm in the market for a saw for dismantling a "parts car".. I've been
> told the Sawzall supposedly cuts everything and it's the best.

You must either not want the parts, or you are in a hurry. The thing was
bolted together at the factory.

> (Haven't used one) I also know that there are a couple of different
> versions of the Sawzall and various competitors who are generally less
> expensive.

I don't like electric tools for car work, because they don't hold up to all
the water and grease. But yeah - with the right blade, a Sawzall will cut
most anything. I have one of those $99 Dewalts from Home Depot. I don't
use mine for cars, though. IMO, the best tools for getting things apart on
the car is an impact wrench and a cut-off saw. To each their own, though.

- Nate


JazzMan

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Sep 2, 2002, 2:22:53 PM9/2/02
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But a sawzall is so much more fun!

I've got a Fiero that I'm going to saw into pieces so
that it takes up less space in the bed of my pickup
truck when I run it to the junkyard. Should be exciting!
The truck's a 1 ton dually w/ the 10,000 GVW camper suspension.
I could put the whole car in the bed in one piece, but it
would stick out 4' in the back.

JazzMan
--
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In memory of Pincushion
http://www.captured.com/underground/memories/patrick_magee.html
***************************************
Please reply to jsavage"at"airmail.net.
Curse those darned bulk e-mailers!
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BACKNCARDR

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Sep 2, 2002, 3:06:36 PM9/2/02
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>But a sawzall is so much more fun!
>
>I've got a Fiero that I'm going to saw into pieces so
>that it takes up less space in the bed of my pickup
>truck when I run it to the junkyard. Should be exciting!
>The truck's a 1 ton dually w/ the 10,000 GVW camper suspension.
>I could put the whole car in the bed in one piece, but it
>would stick out 4' in the back.
>
>JazzMan
>

Say Jazz,

You probably already know what happens to that recip blade when the end of it
contacts something solid on the out stroke. U mite wanna buy extree blades
thar. :-)

JazzMan

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Sep 2, 2002, 3:27:02 PM9/2/02
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Yep. Will start out with a 10-pack of carbide tipped blades
and go from there. Most of the cuts I do will be frame section
cuts where I've got a clear view and access to both sides of
the cut. I've got to drain and strip all the fluid lines off
the car first before cutting. This is an old junkyard car, so
there's not much on the car in the way of valuable parts anymore.

I figure a Sawzall is slower than a torch, but there's a lot
less likelyhood of starting a fire with a saw. :)

py...@texas.net

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Sep 2, 2002, 3:34:37 PM9/2/02
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JazzMan wrote:

> Yep. Will start out with a 10-pack of carbide tipped blades
> and go from there. Most of the cuts I do will be frame section
> cuts where I've got a clear view and access to both sides of
> the cut. I've got to drain and strip all the fluid lines off
> the car first before cutting. This is an old junkyard car, so
> there's not much on the car in the way of valuable parts anymore.
>
> I figure a Sawzall is slower than a torch, but there's a lot
> less likelyhood of starting a fire with a saw. :)

It's personal preference, but I would use bi-metal blades
with hardened teeth. 24 teeth. IMO, the carbide blades take
forever to cut stuff. The bimetal blades rarely break.

Nate B

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Sep 2, 2002, 4:39:19 PM9/2/02
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"JazzMan"

> This is an old junkyard car, so
> there's not much on the car in the
> way of valuable parts anymore.

Weren't you just working on a Fierro? Is it running, or have you decided to
cut it up into little pieces?

> I figure a Sawzall is slower than a torch, but there's a lot
> less likelyhood of starting a fire with a saw. :)

I'd take the torch over a Sawzall myself, but you'll still definitely want a
fire extinguisher nearby...


- Nate


JazzMan

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Sep 2, 2002, 4:57:14 PM9/2/02
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Nate B wrote:
>
> "JazzMan"
>
> > This is an old junkyard car, so
> > there's not much on the car in the
> > way of valuable parts anymore.
>
> Weren't you just working on a Fierro? Is it running, or have you decided to
> cut it up into little pieces?
>

Fieros are like chips, you just can't stop at one. :)

I got it running, mostly, some problems here and there,
but given time I'll be able to resolve them or they'll
just break off and disappear. :)

> > I figure a Sawzall is slower than a torch, but there's a lot
> > less likelyhood of starting a fire with a saw. :)
>
> I'd take the torch over a Sawzall myself, but you'll still definitely want a
> fire extinguisher nearby...
>

In my case I'll be working in the middle of a field of dry
grass. I'm glad I don't smoke.

Hen r y

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Sep 2, 2002, 8:10:34 PM9/2/02
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I'd favor recip saw over torch or cutoff saw. The recip saw won't put out a bunch
of smoke or abrasive particles to go in your lungs. The recip saw also useful for
trimming trees, house construction/demolition. Recip saw also pretty safe for
kids, wife, to use.

Henry

RB

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Sep 3, 2002, 6:43:48 PM9/3/02
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> I've got a Fiero that I'm going to saw into pieces so
> that it takes up less space in the bed of my pickup
> truck when I run it to the junkyard. Should be exciting!
> The truck's a 1 ton dually w/ the 10,000 GVW camper suspension.
> I could put the whole car in the bed in one piece, but it
> would stick out 4' in the back.

And if you don't have a title, that's the only way a recycler will take it -
in pieces.


JazzMan

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Sep 4, 2002, 12:15:08 AM9/4/02
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Yep. The junkyard it came from agreed to take it back, but they're way
out in Greenville. Figure I'd just take it to Little John's and trade
it for some seats, or maybe a dashboard, for my Fiero. :)

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