Alt.surfing old timers & World Surf Day Report - 4/3/1993
Robert W. Kieffer
PACKED with articles... WOW!!! It got me to reminscing about the "good
old days" of alt.surfing (oh, two or three years ago, I guess) when the
regulars were posting daily reports just to keep some traffic flowing in
the group.
Speaking of which, Does anyone keep in touch with Niles, the classic
stoner/surfer from Wollongong, Oz. I remember his riotous posts and the
all to frequent stoned surf reports, heh :) Anyway, if anyone knows his
whereabouts/what he's up to, I'd love to here about it!
Just for grins, I'm including the oldest article that I've kept from
alt.surfing... "WORLD SURF DAY - APRIL 3RD, 1993 REPORT". It's not super
old, but it's old enough to be fun. :)
Time to pick up my board from the shop and hit it... I just wanted to say
"Thanks for the fun and let's keep the coolest/hottest group on the net
PUMPING!!! RAAAAAAAH!!! :)"
- Robert
------------------------ WORLD SURF DAY - 4/3/1994 --------------------
Article 957 (112 more) in alt.surfing:
From: sgc...@citec.oz.au (Stephen Spence)
Subject: WORLD SURF DAY - APRIL 3RD REPORT
Organization: CITEC
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1993 04:56:40 GMT
Lines: 864
====================
OK, here is the report. Work has been very busy since I have recieved
the reports from everyone so I have not had time to produce statistics
yet - you know the type, average swell size = 6ft etc. I will endevour
to get something together VERY SOON.
I would like to thank everybody who participated in the World Surfing Day.
I hope we can make it a regular occurance. By the look of the stats,
mostly
everybody was able to get wet.
I have given some awards for some of the stories :
The "I will not die until I get a Surf" award goes to the lads in Western
Victoria for there commitment - they travelled 600 kms for 1 hours surf.
Go
Hard fellas.
The "I hope I don't catch some awefull disease" award goes to dude at Rat
Point
- LA County, read the report.
The "I feel sorry that you did not get J-Bay at 6ft" award goes to
Malcolme.
The "Go Hard on the Snow Slopes" award goes to Derek.
Thanks again and here's looking at you from the inside :)
The GNARLY Dude
====================
Date: 4/3/93
Time: 2:00pm to 4:00pm
Area: Sunshine Coast - Queensland
Weather: Sunny
Wind: onshore 5-10 knots
Air Temp: 25 degrees C
Water Temp: 20 degrees C
Surf: 3-4ft and mushing over
Comments: Well, not the most epic of surf sessions but over all fun.
=
Date: 4/3/93
Time: 10:00 am
Area: SIO Pier(North Side)
Weather: Sunny, Warm
Wind: None
Air Temp: 60 - 65 (Faren)
Water Temp: 60 (or so)
Surf: 2 - 4 ft waves(3-8 ft faces)
Comments: Ahh, my first time in the water in about
a month. Sheer heaven. The waves were really peaky.
They would form up slowly, then the bottom would drop
out and a wall would form, but occaisonally
you could connect through the sections.
A lot of drop, line, smack the lip type of rides.
Tod Critchlow - Scripps Institution of Oceanography
San Diego, California, USA
=
Dawn patrol at Makaha, Oahu, Hawaii was lots of fun today. Breaking down
the
middle at about 3-4' (Hawaiian size; that's well overhead) NW swell, no
wind and clean. Water and air temp in the low 70's F.
Was bodysurfing on the outside, both rights and lefts, then moved inside
after the crowd showed up, and picked up the big rights on the reform
when the surfers fell off :)
=
Subject: report from airey, East Side Santa Cruz.
Surprisingly enough, classic conditions.
wind from northwest, so side shore on the southwest facing
Santa Cruz reefs.
swell is 5-6 feet, with a few monsters that had faces on the order
of 12+ feet.
water is cold like it always is. Wore a 4/3 and booties.
sun was out, with a few thin clouds.
tide was dropping and pretty much perfect.
Kelp a little out of control.
Crowd was not too bad, which is amazing.
Hey, man, send some mail back acking this note.
john m. airey ai...@asd.sgi.com (415) 390-5248
M/S 7U-553 Silicon Graphics, Advanced Graphics Division
2011 N. Shoreline Blvd., Mtn. View, CA 94039
=
Location: Carlsbad (North San Diego County) California
Time: late morning
Weather: sunny with almost no clouds, moderate wind
Surf: Today was the tail of a swell. Most sets broke in the 4'-5' (head
high)
range with an occasional wave a couple feet overhead. Consistency was
okay,
and crowds were moderate.
--
duke
=
water temp: warm enough to wear a spring suit (a shortie!)
location: 7th street reef, DEL MAR CALIFORNIA
time: 8:30 - 10:30 am
tide was low causing waves to back off, waves that were caught
lined up with vertical faces, size 3- 4 foot
to many weekend posers out in the water made for some minor
competition for waves but they usually don't know where to line up
time: evening session, 5:30 to after sunset
waves glassed off, upcoming tide pushed waves up to 5' foot
sets, giving fast overhead rides, some barrells were to be had
crowd conditions: when I came in at 6:45 pm, only me and a
sea otter (I snaked him !)
See ya
ERIC
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Eric J. Terrill e...@mpl.ucsd.edu
Scripps Institution of Oceanography, 0213 (619) 534-1085
La Jolla, CA 92093 - 0230
=
Subject: surf report for St. augustine, Florida, Usa, April 3rd.
surf : 1/2 to 1 foot shitty, sloppy, choppy, weak mush, that wasent even
worth getting wet for.
about waist high and VERY weak.
wind : 10-20 knots onshore from the North East (making it side onshore)
temp : water 64 degrees F, air about the same
really bad, crummy waves.
greg
g...@reef.cis.ufl.edu
=
Subject: World Surf Day - Western Victoria
"Never have so few travelled so far to ride a few waves"
Paul Whiting
April 3, 1993
I went down to Torquay Friday arvo April 2, to visit Lud and to catch
up with a few mates. They wanted some new boards shaped and I teed it
up with Lud. We checked the surf at Bells but it was about 1 ft and
onshore. I stayed the night at Lud's hoping that the wind might die off
and the swell might pick up.
About 10 am we went and checked the surf at Bells but all that had changed
was that the windswell had doubled in size so that it was now about 2ft
from
the front.
We drove up and down the coast for an hour trying to find something
worthwhile
to go out in and decided to call it quits. When we went back to Lud's
there was a note from his son Sean saying we should head down South.
Lud was apprehensive and figured that it wouldn't be worth it. The coast
down south faces the opposite direction to Bells and picks up twice as
much swell (as we were later to find out). If you imagine Victoria to
be shaped like a V then Bells is on the right hand side of the V and where
we were headed was on the left hand side.
Anyway it ended up that Lud, his brother Hans, his son Sean and myself
headed
off at noon to go down South. We got down to Cape Otway and went to this
"secret spot" that Sean visited regularly and we were hoping that it would
be
working. Even though I've got a 4wd and we had to drive through some
farmers
paddock to get to the beach we still ended up having to walk for half an
hour
to get to the beach. When we got to the top of the sand dune we were met
by a sight that warms every surfers heart. A number of peaks left and
right,
with a nice cross/off breeze and no-one out. The only trouble was that the
more we watched the more uninviting it began to look. It was about
head-high
to head-high and a half but the peaks were shifting all over the place and
the larger sets were closing out. I was keen to give it a try (in my
inexperience) but the Omachen clan were dead set against and Sean made
another
call - we should travel further south to another one of his secret spots.
We then had a half-hour walk up this huge sand dune to go back to the car.
We drove the half-hour along the great ocean road to the turn off and then
had a 20 minute drive along another 4wd track 'til we came to the cliff
overlooking a little secluded bay. We could see the swell coming in to the
bay on the far side but you couldn't see the peak where you surfed.
We headed off down the track which seemed more like a maze thru the
ti-tree
than a track and eventually we came to the cliff and I mean CLIFF!. All I
can say is that I'm glad that the cliff face was dry as you wouldn't be
able
to get down otherwise. This thing was between 150-200 ft and on a 50-60
degree angle.
Anyway abseiling down was worth it cos at the bottom waiting for us was
a clean head-high left reef break with only 3 guys out. We paddled out
at the same time as a guy who was already at the bottom of the cliff and
another guy joined us later so that there was about 9 guys out. The only
problem was that we only got to surf it for about an hour as we got in the
water at 5pm after all the driving and walking that we had done and it got
dark by 6pm and there was no way known that you wanted to climb up the
cliff
and have to walk through the maze in the dark. Sean had done it one time
and
spent a couple of hours trying to find his way out.
The take-off was a bit tricky and Hans, Lud and I didn't get many waves
but Sean had been down here about a dozen times and was getting his share
of the waves. It was worth it though as it had been so long since I'd seen
decent surf and if you have to travel 2 hours to reach the coast then IMHO
you may as well travel any distance to get a decent wave. By the time I
got
back to Melbourne that night I'd travelled about 600 kms for an hours
surf!
Surf details for April 3
Location: Bells Beach, Victoria
Swell size: 1-2 ft
Wind: Onshore
Air: 20 C
Water: 18 C
Location: beach break, Cape Otway, Victoria
Swell size: 6-8 ft
Wind: Cross/Off
Air: 20 C
Water: ?
Location: left reef break, Laver's Hill, Victoria
Swell siz: 4-6 ft
Wind: Off
Air: 18 C
Water: 15 C
regards,
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Paul Whiting | CSIRO - DIT
Computer Scientist | 723 Swanston Street
High Performance Computing Program | Carlton 3053, Australia
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
E-mail: p...@mel.dit.csiro.au | Phone: + 61 3 282 2666
There's no problem a good surf can't fix | Fax: + 61 3 282 2600
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
=
Subject: World Surfing Day Report - Japan
TIME: 0800 - 0900 (JST)
AREA: "SHONAN", CHIGASAKI TO ENOSHIMA ISLAND, SE KANAGAWA, JAPAN
WEATHER: JUST BEAUTIFUL. WARM AND SUNNY, NOT A CLOUD IN THE SKY
WINDS: ON SHORE GUSTS 3-6 MPH
AIR TEMP: ? (COMFORTABLE IN A SWEATSHIRT AND JEANS)
WATER TEMP: ? (2/3MM SUITS W/ FULL ARM/LEGS)
SURF: 8 - 10 !!! INCH !!! FACES :(
FORECAST: NOT GOOD
COMMENTS: WELL I WAS TOTALLY PSYCHED FOR THIS WORLD SURF DAY...
UNFORTUNATELY MY SIDE OF THE PACIFIC WASN'T !!!! THE WEATHER
WAS GRAND AND THE CLOSER I GOT TO THE BEACH THE LOADER I CRANKED
MY WALKMAN AND THE MORE PUMPED UP I GOT..BUT WAITING FOR THE SIGNAL
TO CROSS THE STREET TO THE BEACH I COULD SEE ABSOLUTELY, POSSITIVELY,
NO PHYSICAL MOVEMENT OF WATER !!!!!!!!!!! I WONDER IF THE OLD COUPLE
STANDING NEXT TO ME AT THE LIGHT UNDERSTOOD ENGLISH...LET'S HOPE NOT !!
I MADE MY WAY TO THE BEACH, DROPPED MY GEAR, GOT COMFORATBLE, AND
WATCHED THE FISHERMAN CASTING OFF FROM THE BEACH AND THE FISHING BOATS
SCATTERED AROUND THE HORIZON AND THE PEOPLE COMING AND GOING ON THE
JOGGING/BIKE PATH...BECAUSE THERE DAMN SURE WERN`T ANY WAVES TO BE
RIDDEN !!!!! :( I DID GET A LAUGH WHEN I SAW 5-6 SURFERS FLOATING
AROUND IN THE WATER DOWN THE BEACH FROM ME...JUST FLOATING AROUND ???
OH WELL, THERE'S ALWAYS NEXT TIME, RIGHT ?!?!?!?!?!?! #8^0
kp
=
DATE: 4/3/93
TIME: 11:30a-2p pst
AREA: Rat Point (south end of Torrance Beach, LA county CA)
WEATHER: Sunny
WINDS: Coming up onshore
AIR TEMP.: 70s
WATER TEMP.: 65
SURF: 1-3 and mushy
FORECAST: more of the same
COMMENTS: A typical spring swell for around here, junky and gutless
but big enough for most of the hill to be breaking. Low tide was
at 12 and the beaches were closed out so I ventured out to Rat point.
People familiar with the area will guffah, but the rains have built
up a good sandbar out there, and it wasn't bad for MALing and that's
what I do. Two urban surfing notes: the rat parking lot was
closed for hazardous waste recycling (people dropping off paint, lighter
fluid, kitchen cleaning stuff) so I had to walk past a bunch of people
in white body suits loading up dumpsters. It looked like something
out of `The Day After.' Then, in the water I spotted a dead Garibaldi
(state fish of CA), and looked up to see Peewater Springs pumping
runoff into the water. I hope the bacteria count wasn't too high.
The surf stayed up all weekend, with people out at Hags (7-10 folks,
2-3 feet), Bluff Cove (15-30, 2-3), Indicator (5-10, 2-4), and the
Lunada Point (5-10, 5ft sets). Looks more disorganized today (Monday)
as the storm moves in.
=
Beach: Maroubra (Sydney)
Time: 8:30A
Weather: mixed, some drizzle, some sun
Swell: 3 foot north westerly, I reckon
Waves: head to 1.5 high walls
Water Temp: took the full suit, a bit too much, but it seemed cool,
there was a breeze blowing, and my spring suits pretty weak. Say 60F
(I still can't think in C).
Wind: Offshore.
Crowd: Fairly heavy, but you could find a spot.
When I got there, it was very crowded to the south (unusual) and
reasonable at the north, so I went to north Maroubra. It was a bit
closed out over the north reef so I sat to the south and picked off
some of the bigger sets. Sometimes they mushed out, sometimes they
closed out, but there were some fun ones to be had. Sunday was nicer,
with the sun out, and it's hard to remember which waves I had which
day, but overall it was okay.
It was interesting to be out there and thinking of the fellow surfers
who'd be out that day. I suspect I wasn't the first out (not that late
in the morning :-), but it was also weird to think that others'd be
surfing the same day but in the meantime I might be home and in bed,
asleep. Hope all had some fun.
=
LOCATION: Hawaii, Waikiki, Pops
TIME: 5:30 - 7:15 PM
WEATHER: Sunny (well, at least until the sun set at 6:45)
WIND: moderate offshore (almost sideshore), 10-15 mph
AIR TEMP: ~75 F (24 C)
WATER TEMP: ~73 F (23 C) (ahhhh.)
TIDE: approximately low tide
SURF: Easy 2-3 feet (back face), nice long walls. Not too
consistent until after sunset, when the three-footers
started rolling in almost nonstop.
CROWD: dwindled from 8 people to about three of us as it got dark.
COMMENTS: Really nice waves, nice drop. No barrels, but still fun.
Hope the south swell continues for a while (I was
out Sunday too, and it was about the same). This was
my 5th surf session in 8 days. Can't get enough!
Killer sunset, as usual.
I heard it was big on the North Shore, 8-10 at Sunset Beach.
Good luck on compiling the world surf report, and thanks!
Aloha,
Weeble
=
Place = Tynemouth, Newcastle, North East England.
Weather = Sunny/Cloudy 13C
Wind = Force 4/5 cross onshore
Swell = 3/4ft lined up northerly grolldswe
undswell
The waves were small but reasonable despite the cross/onshore wind.
Sunday was better but unfortunately even smaller
Keep Surfing
Martin.L.Sykes
=
Date: 3 April 1993
Time: 0730-0930 Pacific Time (California)
Area: Silver Strand, Oxnard Ca, USA
Weather: Clear, sunny
Winds: Calm, with slight onshore flow towards the end.
Air Temp: 65 F
Water Temp: 64 F
Surf: 2-4 ft backs, 6-8 ft faces
Forecast: more of the same
Comments: Water was a little bumpy due to the recent storms. A lot
of people in the water, though Silver Strand handles crowds very
well. Everybody got to ride if they sat in one place long enough.
There was a fast rip right next to the jetty. I never even had to
paddle getting out. I just sat on my board and let the rip do
the work. Overall a good day with lots of fun rides.
Danny
--
Danny Clark, PHD NSWC, Port Hueneme CA
da...@suned1.nswses.navy.mil
The Navy and I share some views, but the ones above are all mine.
=
1. Port Alfred (Kowie)
DATE: 3 April 1993
TIME: 4-00 hrs GMT
AREA: Kowie East Pier (Eastern Cape South Africa)
WEATHER: Overcast storm weather
WIND: Onshore 40 knots
AIR TEMP: 19 C
WATER TEMP: 23 C (Chilly - Can get anything from 12 - 28 C)
SURF: Fuck all. All slop!!!!
FORECAST: Still gale force east today (Monday). Wind should turn west
again on Wednesday. But it will take aleast 3-4 days to turn the swell
back to a west swell. Prognosis : no surf until maybe Friday or
Saturday. The west pier will have waves with the east swell and a north
wind Could get some 8 + foot waves here if the wind holds north for a
while.
2. J Bay
DATE: 3 April 1993
TIME: 6-30 hrs GMT
AREA: J BAY SOUTH AFRICA (Who does not know this spot !!)
WEATHER: Overcast and stormy
WIND: Onshore 35 knots
AIR TEMP: 20 C
WATER TEMP: 21 C
SURF: Fuck all. All slop!!
FORECAST: As for above
When the wind turns there are going to be some cooking wave to be had at
BRUCES BEAUTIES. Perhaps up 8 foot!!! BRUCES works on a east swell with
a west wind or a gaint west swell with a west wind. Maybe go down to
BRUCES this long weekend. But its going to be super crowded if less than
6 foot. But it is still alright !!!!!
PS J Bay is still fun at 3 foot I suppose. But at 6 .... man.
MALCOLME LOGIE - Department Biochemistry & Microbiology
Rhodes Unveristy, Grahamstown, 6140, RSA. Internet:
mi...@hippo.ru.ac.za.
Telephone 0461 22023 x 441
(HARD CORE IS DEEP INSIDE)
=
Date: 3 April 1992
Time: Afternoon session
Area: Atlantic Beach, Emerald Isle, North Carolina, East Coast, USA
Weather: Sunny, beautiful
Winds: East, North East
Air: 65 degrees F.
Water: 50 Degrees F.
Surf: Chest-high on bigger sets, mostly waist high, disorganized
Forecast: Rain and NE blow moving in.
Comments: Many of the older crowd - myself included - out for a
day in the sun. First bikini of the season spotted. Good day
to hang out with brahs!
Ken Strayhorn
=
DATE: April 3rd, 1993
TIME: 7:00 am - 12:00 noon
AREA: Zeros / County Line (Southern CA)
WEATHER: Bright and sunny, a little smog
WINDS: Very light (~3 mph) offshore
AIR TEMP.: 60 F to 72 F at noon
WATER TEMP.: 64 F
SURF: 2-3 ft West swell with sets averaging head-high
and some overhead peaks
FORECAST: It's supposed to pick up on the 5th and 6th,
going as high as double-overhead for most of the Southern
California coast.
COMMENTS: A great day; if only the surf were a little larger,
and the winds a little more offshore. Waves tended to be thick
and crumbly, with the occasional outside smoker walling up into
a large drop. I made more late takeoffs on Saturday than I ever
have before. One particular wave springs to mind: I'm sitting out
in the lineup when this popup outside peak looms in front of me. I
frantically turn around and start paddling, and each time I look back
it just gets bigger and meaner. Right as its about to break on my head,
I pop up and grab my rail as I scream down the face. As I come through
the bottom turn in a deep crouch, the wave sections in front of me and
throws a lip right at my head. I try to duck and fail miserably, and my
mouth, nose, ears, and eyes are immediately full of salt water. Somehow,
I manage to stay on my board and pull under the lip for a nice tube and
come flying out the other side into the brown shorebreak with a huge,
goofy
smile on my face. My nose is still dripping.
-tim
=
Subject: World surf day report from D.Wojciech
DATE: April 3rd, 1993
TIME: 8:30 am - 2:00 pm EST
AREA: Carroll Valley, Pennsylvania, USA
WEATHER: Early morning overcast with light snow.
Warming up and clearing to partly sunny.
WINDS: West 10-35 mph.
AIR TEMP.: Early 34 degrees F, warming to about 50 degrees F
WATER TEMP.: 33 degrees F (0-1 degrees C)
SURF:
Wave height peaking out at about 600ft, with the average
set
coming in at about 450-500ft. Pretty mushy and bumpy,
though
plenty of speed on the steep sets. Some of the
smaller waves were really slow, couldn't make it near the
shoreline without stopping and sinking. Eastwind was
goin'
off big time. Lotsa bumps and jumps, but good speed.
Blue Streak was dropping straight down! About 200ft face!
Made the drop without bailing and I was cookin. Almost
plowed over some grommets though. Usually the break
is pretty good at Strata, but it was TOTALLY flat!
Bummer.
I was pulling off some great manuevers. Lots of nice air
180s and a few 360s. On the face 360s and 180s were
coming
left and right, usually on a smooth wave. Don't wanna
try that on a lip! Had a few wipeouts, nothing too major.
Most only kept me down for a few seconds before I was
back up. Had some nice grabs, gettin the cycle in. Nose,
tail, frontside, backside, stalefish. A little jibbin
off some debris in the water, a log and barrel were the
victims. Big crowd. About 300-350 out. Lots of
plankers. Most were pretty cool though.
FORECAST: FLAT! Current weather trends predict to 99.9% accuracy
that there will be no surf here for about the next 8
months.
I guess I'll just have to hit my summer breaks soon!!!
COMMENTS: World Surf Day was a great day for me to end a fun and
great season here this winter. Had about 15 cool
sessions
on the East Coast this winter (conditions were pretty
good, esp towards the end of the season), but I am
excited
to put my snow surfing board in the closet and pull out
my
Island Classics for hopefully a great spring/summer/fall
of 93!
L8tr,
Derek
=
DATE: 4/3/93
TIME: 5-7am
AREA: Blacks (La Jolla)
WEATHER: Clear, nice clean sunrise
WIND: 0-6 knots ENE (gentle offshore)
AIR TEMP: probably 60 deg F
WATER TEMP: about the same
SURF: 3-5' (backs), but a little mixed up
FORECAST: Surf-sham forecasts double overhead+ building
tonight...their
track record hasn't been so hot this past winter.
COMMENTS: Blacks has had problems with rips and shifting sand bars
all winter long. There were decent size sets coming in,
but the rip-tides along with some bump caused by the early
morning high tide kept it from being epic. Some nice
grinding
inside left barrels could be had at south peak, while
north
peak was wedging-up and a little more makeable.
Part II:
DATE: 4/3/93
TIME: 10pm-midnight
AREA: Newbreak (Sunset Cliffs, San Diego)
WEATHER: Clear night, moon a few days before full.
WIND: None
AIR TEMP: probably 63 deg F...pretty warm.
WATER TEMP: maybe 60 deg F.
SURF: Solid 4' (backs) and absolute perfection.
FORECAST: Who cares.
COMMENTS: Best, although not the biggest surf I've had in weeks.
Newbreak is a long hollow right point break, and the
daytime crowd can be pretty rough...you'd better hope
you recognize someone when you paddle out on a good day.
Tonight's surf was perfect...nice long barrels on the
set waves, and only me and my buddy out! Smile.
Hope this gets to you on time...I think that world surf day is a great
concept, but it you make in Dec. or Jan. or Feb. next year, I may have
some really exciting things to report from Blacks.
Keep Surfing, Steve
=
Hi Stepahen,
I know we are supposed to file a report in format and I'll do
that below, but I ended up checking out almost the whole island on
Saturday looking for killer surf. So it doesn't exactly fit well into
the report format.
We were planning to get an early start, but ended up leaving
to go surf at 8 am. Then we went by a friends house to steal him, but
his S.O. shut that plan down. We finally checked our first spot at
about 10 am. There was a high surf advisory, so we had gone to the
Westside. It was clean about 3-4 feet, but not really working right
at Maile point. We continued driving out to Makaha which was a clean 3-5
with about 10 billion guys out! Aha, we said maybe Free Hawaii is
killer...
Well, it was OK, but again very crowded for the quality and quantity of
surf comcoming through. Now, we decided that Maile point was the best so
far so we drove back to Maile point, but it just was not that great.
My boyfriend had gone out to the North Shore, since he thrives
on bigger surf. So since I wanted to report an unreal surf sesh, I
convinced Mark that we should go check out the North Shore. We had surfed
out there on Friday morning and it had been huge, but we thought it had
dropped enough to be fun.
Error! When we drove over the the last hump before getting to
Country, we saw waves breaking at Avalanch and realized it had actually
gotten bigger than the day before. The only spots with people out were
inside Puena point which was about 5 feet and pretty clean, Sunset
which was at least 8-10 feet with bigger sets, and Vland/Freddies where
we watched my boyfriend paddle for about 10 minutes and go nowhere.
The neet thing was the wind surfers out at Backyards since the
trades were blowing 20-25. Those guys were riding waves that were taller
than there masts!
Anyways, by this point we were totally bummed, so we headed back
to
town, picked up my short board and went out at:
date: April 3rd, 1993
time: 3pm
area: South shore O'ahu, suicides and Tongs
weather: Sunny with some high clouds
winds: 20-25 knot trades (pretty strong side off shores)
airtemp: 28-30 C
water temp: 26 C
surf: 2-3 feet, occasional head high sets
forecast: increasing south swell
comments: I kept thinking about eveybody else surfing in cold water
and even worse surf so I had a great time. I actually almost pulled
a floater, but I didn't quite stick the landing.
Great idea to have a Net surf. Thanks!
Aloha,
Dawn
=
date: 4/3/93 (surprise)
time: hit the water at 6:00am
area: surfed "crabs", one of a series of small reefs in Cardiff, CA
wthr: clear sky
wind: very light offshore as the sun rose, basically ideal conditions.
air: don't know, probably about 10-15 deg C. (50-60degF.)
H2O: about 16-17 deg. C. (61-63 deg. F)
surf: swell was about head high, with largest sets about 1.3 times.
measured from the back it would be about 4-5 real ft, or 2-3
ft for the image conscious. direction appeared to be primarily
from the west with some north in it
cmnts: surfed crabs because most people don't. crowd of 15-20 at
pipes, 100 yds (meters) to the north. I was alone most of
the time with one other occasionally. Crabs is not real
predictable or relaible, but I got a few good waves before
getting launched on a left that broke my cord and washed the
board up on the cobblestone beach. Ouch.
Have fun collating.
Jim
=
DATE: 3 Apr 93
TIME: about 4pm
AREA: East Corrimal, NSW, AUST
WEATHER: Sunny
WINDS: Nth, slightly onshore - turned cross shore
AIR TEMP: 25 deg C
WATER TEMP: Warm
SURF: SE swell, about 1.5 x o'head. Pretty clean.
SURFCRAFT: Bodyboard (me), surfboard (Jim).
COMMENTS: A welcome birthday present! At long last we had some decent
surf.
A heap of people out but as its a fairly large beach break there was room
for
all. The waves were fairly steep, with one bbder literally flying (and
screaming) quite a big drop. My main thrill, was taking off on a rapidly
rising wave, with huge acceleration, skimming down the face to be
eventually
trashed 30m down the line. Have just got to get that rail in properly ...
Philp
--
Philip Secker, Elec & Comp Eng. University of Wollongong, NSW 2500,
Australia
=
DATE: April 3, 1993
TIME: 3-5pm PST
AREA: Fort Point, San Francisco, CA, USA
WEATHER: Cloudy, windy and cold.
WINDS: Prevailing north at 15kt (although sideshore locally)
AIR TEMP.: About 60
WATER TEMP.: About 55
SURF: Big and clean, 4-6ft swell - sets with up to 12 foot faces.
FORECAST: Swell will be dropping - Clear with continuing north winds.
COMMENTS:
Ended up surfing some medium big lefts at Fort Point, in San Francisco:
Huge swell pounding the Northern California coast both Friday and
Saturday.
I checked Mavricks in the morning, and watched 3 guys pick off waves from
the
channel just south of the peak. Looking through my 30X spyglass it looked
to be about 20-25ft faces on the sets. Not many people out up the coast,
with Ocean beach peaking way outside, and no way to get out. I'd managed
a pretty decent session Friday at Ft. Point, below the Golden Gate, on
the ebb, so I headed for there. Got there late and it was already pushing
pretty hard. I just missed Ragnar, my brother, who left before I got
there.
On a pushing tide, it tends to break way around on the outside of the
point,
under the bridge, and sweeps across the inside peak. There was almost no
one
on the inside, and about 15 guys on the outside point. I waited inside
and
caught one lone peak right at Rhino Rock, then gave up and paddled under
the
bridge to jostle for a set wave. Caught what looked to be a little
followup
wave after a set, but turned out to be a nice lined up bowling 8 foot
face.
I got a couple of good gyrations off the top, the dug my frontside rail
for
a hard cutback and smash the whitewater for a snappy rebound. Getting a
bit
close to the inside rocks, I leaned back and shot my board over the edge
of
the face, for a semi-sloppy dismount. That was the only outsider I
caught,
but I did get a couple more in the middle, and a nice drop on a tall
hollow
insider. I stayed out till the push pretty much killed it, at around
5:30pm.
-Leif
=
DATE: Sat 3 April 1993, World Surfing Day
TIME: 9:30am to 1:30 pm, Personal Record 4 hours
AREA: Id tell ya but id hafta kill ya, Jaws Point
WEATHER: Filthy Spring Sunshine
WINDS: Light Onshore, you could still lite one in the lineup
AIR TEMP.: ?55-60F?
WATER TEMP.: 55F
SURF: Full On Fast Sucking Peak Swells, Overhead
FORECAST: weather radio said 11 foot swells
COMMENTS: 2 many kids out during Easter Break, one broken
nose, but the size kept most of them on the inside.
The waves were much faster than normal, i figure the
swell must be SW and they didnt wrap around the point.
when i was done, i sat down on the beach to watch the
spot i left getting very hollow, the best man was getting a
long deep tube ride with a strech five. Now i started
screaming, and he did it again, tube and hang five for
the full wave, fast screamers at that. Then he came in
and said he got 4-5 rides like that. i believe him if
he says 5x5 in the tube, OXOMOXO!
Nancy Jean
Sewerside, California
=
DATE: 4/3/93
TIME: all day...
AREA: California->San Diego->La Jolla->Windansea->my front yard :-)
WEATHER: sunny
WINDS: 5 MPH onshore
AIR TEMP.: 70 F
WATER TEMP.: 62 F
SURF: 2-4 ft. (backs) and consistent
FORECAST: I can feel summer knockin...
COMMENTS: A typical Windansea day. High tide was the best, low tide was
too mushy. Not very crowded for a Saturday though. I wonder where
everyone is? I hope the rest of the world got in a good day of surf. I
could
almost feel that international good vibe influencing my cut backs.
Shaka all,
Garrett
=
DATE: Sat., April 3
TIME: Mid-morning till late afternoon
AREA: somewhere north of San Francisco
WEATHER: Rainy
WINDS: Light northwest
AIR TEMP.: 50s
WATER TEMP.: low 50s
SURF: overhead to double overhead
FORECAST: none
COMMENTS: strong current, a little bumpy, no crowd, powerful
One of the beachbreaks was huge but impossible to get out
Killer camp/surf trip
-steve
=
DATE: 4/3/93
TIME: 8:00 am to ~11:00 am
AREA: Del Mar California, between 15th and 11th Streets
WEATHER: Sunny, awesome
WINDS: almost none
AIR TEMP.: 60 - 70 deg F
WATER TEMP.: 62 deg F
SURF: 3 to 6 ft faces, mixed up swell, not consistent
tendancy for the bigger waves to be closeouts
FORECAST: ?
COMMENTS: Had some fun but the waves were kind of weird and
hard to predict, the bigger waves had a really
fun, steep drop, but they were usually closeouts
so you either had to get out fast or get slammed.
Sunday 4/4/93 went to Pipes (Cardiff area). The
waves were 4 to 7 ft faces and much more consistent.
The big ones still had a tendancy to be long,
walling
closeouts but it was better than Saturday. Caught
a few fast, shoulder high rights on my 10.0 ft
Eaton Zinger 4 fin bonzer.
=
DATE: Sat 3 April 1993
TIME: 09.30 am.
AREA: Scarborough Beach. Western Australia.
WEATHER: mostly overcast with a few sunny spells.
WINDS: 15 knots onshore (SW)
AIR TEMP.: 22'c (and no Im not going to convert it to F')
WATER TEMP.: cold?
SURF: 2-3 foot onshore slop but good fun to grovel in.
FORECAST: Swell increase is on the cards as a cold pressure systems moves
in.
COMMENTS: Well worth the effort because we all got wet and had a great
grovel
(including a demolition derby with some of the older boards) in smallish
waves
which suprised the crew with the occasional head-high wave of quality.
Glenn.
=
DATE: 04/03/93
TIME: 8:00 to 10:30 am
AREA: The Patch, Bolinas CA (No Cal)
WEATHER: Sunny
WINDS: Slight offshore
AIR TEMP.: 60s
WATER TEMP.: 55ish
SURF: Chest to head high faces, clean
FORECAST: Worse
COMMENTS: The Patch put on quite a show for World-Surf-Day.
It's usually small, mushy, and inconsistent.
=
Just my follow up to let you know how my surf was on Saturday April 3. I
surfed Pleasure Point in Santa Cruz late in the afternoon until almost
dusk.
The tide was too high in the morning, & went out to a minus tide until
late
afternoon. Pleasure's is best to surf on a low/incomming tide. I took
out my
baby gun, but wish I had taken out my short board, because when I got out
in
the water there were enough over head sets to enjoy my smaller board on.
I
did have alot of fun though. This is a right hand wave with several
different
take off peaks, so you get a better chance to jocky around to get your
share of
waves. The conditions were as follows:
The Weather was nice (between 70 & 75 degrees). The water was cold but
glassy.
The swell was comming out of the Northwest and was fairly consistent.
There
was a good size crowd, but if you worked hard you could catch somewhat
your
share of waves (there's never enough waves to go around on a crowded day)!
The occasional over head set kept you on your toes. The majority of the
waves
were small waist to head. All in all it was worth being out in the water.
Looking forward to seeing your summary on everyone's postings.
Take care,
Tom Godsoe
--
Stephen Spence |
CITEC |
Australia | "Regardless of Risk"
612 07 227 6969 |
sgc...@citecuc.citec.oz.au |
(Mail) End of article 957 (of 1069)--what next? [npq]
--
Robert Kieffer - Robert_...@gemstone.com - NeXTMail welcome
Gemstone Systems, Inc.
19616 Redbeam Ave.
Torrance, CA 90503
Timothy B. Maddux
Somebody want to pick a day?
- tim
tele1
or am I just braindamaged from lack of surf?
--
Eric N. Valor
te...@eternity.corp.sgi.com
pal...@darkside.com
- This Space Intentionally Left Blank -
John Airey
In article <Cvrs...@odin.corp.sgi.com>, te...@eternity.corp.sgi.com writes:
> What was this, some kind of alt.surfing gettogether thingee??
>
> or am I just braindamaged from lack of surf?
yes.
>
> --
> Eric N. Valor
> te...@eternity.corp.sgi.com
> pal...@darkside.com
>
> - This Space Intentionally Left Blank -
>
Robert W. Kieffer
> What was this, some kind of alt.surfing gettogether thingee??
>
> or am I just braindamaged from lack of surf?
... and ...
In article <34ko0b$p...@gap.cco.caltech.edu> tbma...@alumni.caltech.edu
(Timothy B. Maddux) writes:
> I remember this... it was fun, let's do it again.
>
> Somebody want to pick a day?
For those who're new to the group...
The "World Surf Day" was simply a day when all of alt.surfing agreed to
hit the beach on April 3rd, 1993, regardless of how crappy the surf
conditions were, and post a report of how their surf session went.
I'd love to do this again. As I recall it was a lot of fun the first time
around and we are 4 months overdue for this year's! I'll volunteer to
collect the reports and post a summary (unless, of course, Stephen Spence
wants to do it again)
How does the Sunday after next sound (Sept. 18th)?
I'll plow ahead with this if I get enough feedback from people.
- Robert Kieffer
tele1
Sounds great.. I've got the BATTLERUSTY(tm) all waxed up and
ready to go!
(wait.. I've got gripdeck.. shit.. now it's a real mess!)
Hang 5
my 9'0'' South Coast.
Pray for the (alleged) New Zealand swell to hit then.
Hang 5
Daniel Hinojosa
i'll be there for some time and expect to get my sinuses filled with the
pacific!
d.
--
daniel hinojosa | hino...@nado.hp.com | Santa Clara, CA
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Jesus Saves!... But Gretzky gets the rebound. He Shoots. He SCOOORES!!!
Nancy Jean Travis
>In article <CvtCt...@gemstone.com>, kie...@gemstone.com (Robert W.
>Kieffer) writes:
>
>>How does the Sunday after next sound (Sept. 18th)?
>
Any day is good. Sooo maybe Rincon Sunday next,,,
fang
Jennifer Shipley
>
>In article <Cvrs...@odin.corp.sgi.com> te...@eternity.corp.sgi.com
>(tele1) writes:
>> What was this, some kind of alt.surfing gettogether thingee??
>>
>> or am I just braindamaged from lack of surf?
>
>... and ...
>How does the Sunday after next sound (Sept. 18th)?
Cool.
Flat in Tejas now though ... wwhhhhaaaaaaa (sounds like a
baby crying)
Chris
have board will travel
Surf Cat69
Kieffer) writes:
>How does the Sunday after next sound (Sept. 18th)?
>I'll plow ahead with this if I get enough feedback from people.
Sounds good to me. I'll be at Tourmaline
Generic Account 0265
: In article <CvtCt...@gemstone.com>, kie...@gemstone.com (Robert W.
: Kieffer) writes:
What time?
I'll be there at (Before) sun up with my Ace 10'0".
In the parking lot look for a guy with a limp,
took a wipe out at south mission trying something
extremely stupid on my longboard-and paid the price.
-hope we get some surf-
Surf Cat69
(Generic Account 0265) writes:
>What time?
>I'll be there at (Before) sun up with my Ace 10'0".
>In the parking lot look for a guy with a limp,
>took a wipe out at south mission trying something
>extremely stupid on my longboard-and paid the price.
>-hope we get some surf-
I'm usually there around 7 am on the weekends and on off days. I'm the
guy cramming the 10' hatchet fin "BK" longboard into the blue Miata.
Today wasnt to bad, size came up some maybe tomorrow it'll clean up some
Ludwig Omachen
>Hey gang, I just got back from 5-days in St. Louis to find alt.surfing
>PACKED with articles... WOW!!! It got me to reminscing about the "good
>old days" of alt.surfing (oh, two or three years ago, I guess) when the
>regulars were posting daily reports just to keep some traffic flowing in
>the group.
>
>Speaking of which, Does anyone keep in touch with Niles, the classic
>stoner/surfer from Wollongong, Oz. I remember his riotous posts and the
>all to frequent stoned surf reports, heh :) Anyway, if anyone knows his
>whereabouts/what he's up to, I'd love to here about it!
>
Regarding Nigel, he and a mate came down from Woolongong some months back
for a weeks surfing at Bells and nearby breaks.
We scored an excellent swell for the whole week, head to double overhead
waves, and excellent, almost classic conditions.
He stayed at my place most of the time, and he was a much mellower Nigel
than last time he was hear (2 years ago), but then I again I dont know what
he got up to on the few nights he spent at Sean`s (my son) place :-).
I think he is in his final year at uni, and is working on some virtual reality
project, who knows, we may be able to log in one of these days and have a
"real" net-surf :-).
I havent heard from him since then since then, perhaps you can fill us in Jim ?
> Stuff about worls surf day deleted....
Since we`re reminiscing about the good old days, here is an old file on the
more "cultural" side of alt.surfing :-), the poems that were posted during those
dreaded flat spells !
Cheers, keep surfibg,
Lud.
******* SURF POETRY, from the "old gang" *********
From deakin.OZ.AU!munnari.oz.au!network.ucsd.edu!sdd.hp.com!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!agate!darkstar!cats.ucsc.edu!dirk Wed Jun 10 08:26:38 AEST 1992
Article: 1361 of alt.surfing
Path: deakin.OZ.AU!munnari.oz.au!network.ucsd.edu!sdd.hp.com!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!agate!darkstar!cats.ucsc.edu!dirk
From: di...@cats.ucsc.edu (D.J. nifty suit & the Shark Fin)
Newsgroups: alt.surfing
Subject: It's Alive
Keywords: surfing without a net
Message-ID: <36...@darkstar.ucsc.edu>
Date: 6 Jun 92 00:11:32 GMT
Sender: use...@darkstar.ucsc.edu
Organization: University of California, Santa Cruz
Lines: 27
Read the surfing net
and here's what you get
that bloat Lud
who's rumored a Pud
there is Nigel
his mouth quite is agile
Jim the dong
from Wall-o-gong
thier words blunder
from down under
they don't differentiate
thier friends from mate
now up on the top
where whitey's the cop
land of Agro-not
think they're hot
to the camera nearer
not water clearer
oh that Aiery
surfs very scary
Stanford Lief
with hellman grief
a duck from redondo
bitchin gnarly mondo
now there's dirk
and he's a real jirk
From deakin.OZ.AU!munnari.oz.au!uunet!cis.ohio-state.edu!pacific.mps.ohio-state.edu!linac!unixhub!unixhub.SLAC.Stanford.EDU!leif Wed Jun 10 08:26:50 AEST 1992
Article: 1363 of alt.surfing
Path: deakin.OZ.AU!munnari.oz.au!uunet!cis.ohio-state.edu!pacific.mps.ohio-state.edu!linac!unixhub!unixhub.SLAC.Stanford.EDU!leif
From: le...@unixhub.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Leif Eric Johnson)
Newsgroups: alt.surfing
Subject: Re: It's Alive
Keywords: surfing without a net
Message-ID: <41...@unixhub.SLAC.Stanford.EDU>
Date: 7 Jun 92 01:10:37 GMT
References: <36...@darkstar.ucsc.edu>
Sender: ne...@unixhub.SLAC.Stanford.EDU
Organization: Stanford Linear Accelerator Center
Lines: 38
Nntp-Posting-Host: unixhub.slac.stanford.edu
In a previous article di...@cats.ucsc.edu (D.J. nifty suit & the Shark Fin) writes:
>
>Read the surfing net >and here's what you get
>that bloat Lud >who's rumored a Pud
>there is Nigel >his mouth quite is agile
>Jim the dong >from Wall-o-gong
>thier words blunder >from down under
>they don't differentiate >thier friends from mate
>now up on the top >where whitey's the cop
>land of Agro-not >think they're hot
>to the camera nearer >not water clearer
>oh that Aiery >surfs very scary
>Stanford Lief >with hellman grief
>a duck from redondo >bitchin gnarly mondo
>now there's dirk >and he's a real jirk
Dirk, dirk, amusing jerk
sing your poem, then you smirk.
Pick on this dude, that dude, other
suck your thumb and run to mother.
Nail my good friend, john of Airey
as if he were a loser larry!
Talk down "bloat" Lud, what a jive
just 'cause his waste is 45 <---------inches, for you ozzie slobs :-)
And Nig, poor Nigel, way down south
gets chided for his vulgur mouth.
But I notice you're no rhyming lark
with your nifty suit, and fin of shark.
So let's just stick to surfing topic
I'm planning a trip this year to the tropic!
Down south the waves are good I hear
while the north half sucks for half a year.
But that's not why I wrote this poem
you disrupted our placid NETtish home.
But since your new here, do not fret
I hereby welcome you to the NET!
Later...
-Leif :-) Ok, I'm a jerk too, so kill me!
G'day gang,
as poetry seem's to be the go at the moment, here is another attempt at
rhyme.
From memory, the mouth down south, Nigel :-), was the first to grace
the net with poetry, if you still have those early poem's Nig, how
about reposting them ?.
------------------------------
Well here's a poem from us down under,
for all the gang up north that wonder,
why we down here would rather be,
away from work and in the sea.
Lud the pud is feeling good,
in the land of Oz down under.
With winter here, the waves you see,
come rolling in like thunder.
In the pre-dawn dark you have a yawn,
and listen for the thunder,
of the waves you hope will grace the dawn,
on a winter morn' down under.
You hear the sound, and in one swift bound,
are out of bed and running.
You load the car, and call the hound,
and get the old van gunning.
You crest the hill, and feel the chill,
of the offshore breeze that's blowing.
You glimpse the swell, as you come up on Bell's,
and see the lips are throwing.
You grab your stick, and paddle quick,
and stroke to reach the big one.
You spin and stroke, and fully stoked,
you pull into a tubed one.
With so few out you hoot and shout,
and share the wave's aplenty.
You make one out, and give a shout
'cause you never make too many.
Two hour's surf, on the new sleek gun,
has filled life's need of wave's and fun,
you catch one in, and looking back
you know the sea will draw you back.
So now it's time to quit the fun,
of surfing, friends, and early sun,
You race back home, exhausted in bed,
and hope your wife will give you h___
But when sometimes this thought comes up,
you find your wife's already up,
Your rigid hopes have been in vain,
so back to sleep it is again.
Don't voice your anger you women, I pray
for here is what I mean to say,
It's also great to be at home,
and share your love with her alone.
On other day's such joy's must wait,
for the call of work dictate's our fate.
Though sometimes you can sneak in late,
if the surf is up, those day's you hate.
Sometime's huge swell's pump in at Bell's,
and make us s?it and wonder,
have we the ball's to go out there,
or would we just go under ?
With no Leif here to calm our fear,
or teach us how to hellman,
we're filled with doubt, and ponder,
the monstrous surf just yonder.
On other day's the fear's not there,
the waves don't have such thunder,
you race out there, and slash and tear,
and rip the waves asunder.
And when to work you finally get,
it's great to hook up to the net,
and share with friend's the world around,
the joy's of nature that we've all found.
And for those long spell's of surfless flat
you can dial the net and have a chat,
arrange a trip with friend's anew,
to chase away the the surfless blue's.
Well bye to all from us down under,
may you all be blessed with surf and thunder,
enjoy your life of surf and sun,
and keep us tuned with thing's you've done.
Cheer's all, keep surfing,
Lud.
From deakin.OZ.AU!munnari.oz.au!uunet!stanford.edu!mcnc!alvin!mills Mon Jun 15 08:51:23 AEST 1992
Article: 1408 of alt.surfing
Path: deakin.OZ.AU!munnari.oz.au!uunet!stanford.edu!mcnc!alvin!mills
From: mi...@mcnc.org (Thomas David Mills)
Newsgroups: alt.surfing
Subject: flat
Message-ID: <90...@alvin.mcnc.org>
Date: 12 Jun 92 17:03:42 GMT
Organization: Center for Microelectronics, MCNC; RTP, NC
Lines: 27
Hi folks,
It is flat flat flat, and I am itching for a surf somethin' awful.
Everyone seems to be turning out mushy poetry about surfing during
the dry spells, so I have my own little poem for your reading pleasure:
such silky sweeps
such smoothly flying spray
a sense of speed and power
like no other.
What a magical dance is this
water whispering so fast beneath me
and screaming chasing behind me.
I shall surf for all my life
We need some waves quick before things get out of hand around here.
Cheers,
Tom
From deakin.OZ.AU!munnari.oz.au!metro!cs.uow.edu.au!u8801863 Tue Jul 21 08:26:57 AEST 1992
Article: 1631 of alt.surfing
Path: deakin.OZ.AU!munnari.oz.au!metro!cs.uow.edu.au!u8801863
From: u880...@cs.uow.edu.au (Nigel Brendon Robinson)
Newsgroups: alt.surfing
Subject: My surf poetry from last year.... :-) (Theresa drop me a line!)
Message-ID: <1992Jul20....@cs.uow.edu.au>
Date: 20 Jul 92 10:49:23 GMT
Organization: Dept of Computer Science, Wollongong University, Australia
Lines: 171
Theresa are those two blokes(your fiance...) still coming to oz ????
If so tell me when ...
Here's the two poems that I wrote last year during a freezing flat spell
that occurred.Lud asked me to post it before my exams but I didn't get time
to organize it then.Time is something I now have alot of.... Unfortunately
when you usually have alot of time, you don't have much money and
vice versa...oh well,life goes on.
The first poem I wrote while just about tripping on caffiene.The night
before I'd drank too much alcohol so I thought I'd take it easy when I
went to the bar.Instead I ended up drinking too much coke.So by about 1:00am
and still not getting to sleep I decided to do something and writing a poem
was what came about.
It's got no title but maybe one of you personages can sugguest one.
Here I stammer inside myself
No need to rush just to be awake
Where's the justice if you've god bad health
I surf upon a Rusty Presendorfer
The amazing part is it's a pintail
I love to feel of it moving like a Porsche
I now describe an action clear
To ride a wave from crest to sand,
To get the feel is a one way steer
I'll need more than words to make you understand.
My descriptions long and grand
You walk to the water's edge
Place your board on the sand with sideways flick,
You love to ride your favourite stick
The leash is tied upon your leg
But you touch the water as walking forward
Who needs a broom to reach the ocean
You pass some people and they laughed and called you a skeg
You smile to yourself and mutter an inward comment,
Lucky is the work, "I'm lucky to be a skeg!"
Indeed it's true, to be lucky one must have patience
On with the show as you push over the first wave with an upward
jump across the wash.
Paddle forward and meet the next,
A deep duck dive under the foam
Open you eyes and see the wash is strong,
Who need to worry when there's a swell around.
The first wave is caught and the take off is steep,
You bottom turn and the spray is wide.
Down the line the form is taking,
Here's the fun in waves back-bending-out breaking.
Try and draw a tube from the inside looking out and
You'll find it's hard to make the grade,
Life's not easy when you live in the shade.
Anyhow, the tube is deep and the furrows long, as you reap the
reward of pushing along strong.
The pressure builds and the orgasm mounts,
The spray forces its way along the waves and blows you out its
wake.
Rebirth is an amazing experience,
Especially when the birth-water is so warm.
You finish with a mad aerial kick-out and end the ride,
It's really great to be alive.
This next poem I was trying to put down the analogies between sex and surfing.
Like all amazing pursuits, poetry tries to convey the feeling behind the words.
A VISION
There is no place I long to see
Where ripe and pure women lay
I have no hint of where it's found
But to be told would be a shame
Because there's fund just looking around
Waves are rumbling as they hug the shore
Where the women lie aplenty to score,
They caress the bottom in cylindrical form,
Matching the feminine shapes that are very well born.
A first embrace is a tender gift,
Diving down to cleanse the soul,
Take her hands and smile softly,
Paddle out to make one whole.
The drop is quick with a low tide,
No faster than bedding apon the sand,
Taking that muff of fur within my hand,
Feel the supple yet hard stick slide.
A gasp out loud as the first thrust felt,
Driving hard and fast down the line,
Give a hoot to psyche the mind.
Release from lust feels more than fine.
A rocking motion is the action felt,
To hit the lip and bottom-turn hard,
Reaction now is back and forth,
Furrowing deep and quick like a horse.
The climax is not far away,
Set the sights and lock on the rail line,
The tunnel vision is now in sway,
Hold on to this moment of ecstasy sublime.
A rumble is heard deep from within her bosom,
Hold fast and she is about to spit,
Orgasmic fluid rushes past in a blossom,
A shrill noise quacks from the rider's lips,
Coming through to a vision wholesome.
At last laying down side by side,
Relief has been felt from both involved,
Each enjoying the other so much and more,
A long lasting memory has just been burned.
The below is a little bit extra that a guy sent me about growing old
along with the poems.... Maybe some of you can relate :-)
It's about growing old.
Everything hurts and what doesn't hurt doesn't work
You get winded playing chess
You begin to outlive enthusiasm
Your favorite part of the paper is "25 years ago today"
You're 17 around the neck and 42 around the waist
A fortune teller offers to read your face
You burn the midnight oil after 8:00 PM
You sink your teeth into a steak and they stay there
Your pacemaker makes the garage door go up when you see a pretty
girl walk by
You get too much room in the house and not enough room in the
medicine cabinet
Your mind makes contracts that your body can't meet
Bye,
Nigel.
PS I had a resonable surf at south Beach about head high and sucking out
pretty viciously on Saturday.
PPS It's cold,dark and raining outside and I've got to ride my push-bike
home through it :-(
--
What did the bannana say to the vibrator ?
What are you shaking for, s/he's going to eat me.
What did one petifile say to the other petifile ?
Swap you two fives for a ten.
From sol.deakin.OZ.AU!munnari.oz.au!spool.mu.edu!olivea!hal.com!darkstar.UCSC.EDU!cats.ucsc.edu!dirk Wed Jan 20 10:09:03 AEDT 1993
Article: 2688 of alt.surfing
Path: sol.deakin.OZ.AU!munnari.oz.au!spool.mu.edu!olivea!hal.com!darkstar.UCSC.EDU!cats.ucsc.edu!dirk
From: di...@cats.ucsc.edu (Jonathan William Wisler)
Newsgroups: alt.surfing
Subject: Scooby Dues
Keywords: snacks
Message-ID: <1j296v...@darkstar.UCSC.EDU>
Date: 13 Jan 93 23:39:11 GMT
Organization: University of California; Santa Cruz
Lines: 16
NNTP-Posting-Host: am.ucsc.edu
After some brief sprack snacks
the waves do lack
listen to the Knack
the pro's did come
to get none
stormy lane
rack my brain
keeps me sane
i think ?
any waves
what's the point.
P.S. Purple Scrotum
Ludwig Omachen
>
>I'd love to do this again. As I recall it was a lot of fun the first time
>around and we are 4 months overdue for this year's! I'll volunteer to
>collect the reports and post a summary (unless, of course, Stephen Spence
>wants to do it again)
>
>How does the Sunday after next sound (Sept. 18th)?
>
>I'll plow ahead with this if I get enough feedback from people.
>
>- Robert Kieffer
Count me in, I'll put in a report for Bells Beach.
Cheers, keep surfing,
Lud.
Conrad P. Drake
>From: lud...@Deakin.Edu.Au (Ludwig Omachen)
>Subject: Re: World Surf Day1994?
>Date: 12 Sep 1994 22:54:37 GMT
>Cheers, keep surfing,
>Lud.
Bastard. You _know_ that you should be having 3-4 metres of swell then.
By then we'll be lucky if it's above 1.5 here in the West.
maybe if I sit in the bath the wife'll be kind enough to push some ripples
over to me?
Conrad Drake
--
Sue Ralph Nader, too, he was supposed to have prevented this kind of
thing by now. Oh, and my fee is 40%
Ed "gettabike" Green, rec.motorcycles
Email: con...@pico.qpsx.oz.au
Snail: QPSX Communications, Private Bag 24, West Perth 6005, Australia.
Numbers:(ph) +61 9 262 2000, (fx) +61 9 321 2984 (dod) 0604
Todd Law
Sept. 18 is good for Japan this year, as a typhoons are starting
to make nice waves way out to sea, but not blowing on shore. I'll
be out there.
--
))
_((_ ,,$$$$$$$$$$,
Todd Law / \ ;$' '$$$$:
Nagoya Institute of Technology /\/\/\/\ $: $$$:
Itoh Laboratory / \ $ o_) $$$:
Nagoya, Japan / \ ;$, _/\ &&:'
to...@juno.elcom.nitech.ac.jp / \ ' /( &&&
/ \ \_ &&'
_ __ __ _ __ _ &&&.
( \ \ |)\_ \ \_\ \) \_\ \\ \ \ &&&&&&&:
) \_\|\ \ _\ \ \ \ \ \ \\_\ . '&&&&&&&..'
Andrew Rothwell
>around and we are 4 months overdue for this year's! I'll volunteer to
>collect the reports and post a summary (unless, of course, Stephen Spence
>wants to do it again)
I can't make it Sunday - company stuff in the Blue Mountains.
So, my body and mind will be there but my soul will be in
the water, where we'll all be connected.
I'll be in the water Monday though, and I'll post something
about our surf here on the Northern Beaches of Sydney. In
particular: Palm Beach (the Joey), Whale Beach (the Wedge),
and Avalon Beach (North Av, South Av & LA).
See ya.
Andrew.
--
_______________________________________________________________________________
"Runnin' down a dream, goin' wherever it leads." Andrew R. Rothwell.
-Tom Petty. arot...@metaplex.com
Metaplex Pty Ltd.
Lvl 13, 118 Alfred St,
Milsons Point. NSW. 2061.
AUSTRALIA.
Steven Kenneth Besler
17th. I guess that's one day early, do I still count? Any one else going to
Long Beach? Perhaps I can stretch it into Sunday as well ;-)
Steven K. Besler
PS: No, the 'K' does not stand for kook, although I'm not that great yet!
--
---
Steven Besler - Third/Fourth year UBC computer science coop student.
Email: <ak...@freenet.carleton.ca>, <x4y...@ugrad.cs.ubc.ca>
Steven Kenneth Besler
Steven Kenneth Besler <x4y...@ugrad.cs.ubc.ca> wrote:
>I hope to be surfing at Long Beach, British Columbia, Canada on Saturday the
>17th. I guess that's one day early, do I still count? Any one else going to
>Long Beach? Perhaps I can stretch it into Sunday as well ;-)
>
>Steven K. Besler
>
>PS: No, the 'K' does not stand for kook, although I'm not that great yet!
Oh, I'll be the longhair on the 7'3" partially dinged up Becker three fin.
I'll also wear a shirt this time so my chest doesn't become a sloppy bleeding
mess! No wet suit though (brrrrr), I don't wanna look like a tourist!
Aloha,
Bez.