Campy chain - are they kidding?
richard
chain. Besides their tool (I do like the way it locks things into place!),
the pin is two-piece, and they claim the chain has a definite right and
left side. Furthermore, the chain must be installed by pushing in the pin
from beneath the BB. Finally, if you remove the chain, you need to cut out
7 link pieces and replace this string with their special 7-link section
(and two more 2-piece pins).
After reading all this, do they expect anyone except professional team
mechanics to buy their tool and chain and go through this?
Jim Flom
right and left side but is very easy to install (no pin to push per se). I
misinstalled it the first time around and it shifted fine but left me with a
bit of a hop in the chain in the smallest cog until Peter Chisolm suggested
I reverse the master link.
Jim Flom
"richard" <r.mccl...@insightbb.com> wrote in message
news:Xns94AAADBDBD049rm...@63.240.76.16...
Antti Salonen
> Konex makes a perfectly good 10-speed chain for much less.
That would be the "ConneX" chain by Wippermann.
-as
Jim Flom
>
> That would be the "ConneX" chain by Wippermann.
Indeed.
Qui si parla Campagnolo
left side. Furthermore, the chain must be installed by pushing in the pin
from beneath the BB. Finally, if you remove the chain, you need to cut out
7 link pieces and replace this string with their special 7-link section
(and two more 2-piece pins).
After reading all this, do they expect anyone except professional team
mechanics to buy their tool and chain and go through this? >><BR><BR>
Well in reality, you don't need the 'tool', just like you didn't need the
permalink tool(a chaintool and a dime worked fine). Plus I'll bet that the
'teams' change chains more than they clean them and if they do, i am sure they
use a snaplink, like the connex one.
For you-install the pin, when it comes to cleaning, buy a snap link OR get a
Connex chain to start with...
Use a well made chaintool, push the pin in straight. All that is unique about
the Campagnolo tool(I have one) is tht it has little push thru gizmo that holds
the plates stable while you push the pin thru. It doubles as a really nice
chaintool.
Peter Chisholm
Vecchio's Bicicletteria
1833 Pearl St.
Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535
http://www.vecchios.com
"Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"
A Muzi
We build a lot of Campagnolo equipped bikes - more than any
shop of my acquaintance. We don't use their chain at all.
I keep one each model in stock and sell under ten a year
over the counter.
We're building with KMC mostly and we love them. Nice
snaplink. We also use Wippermann and SRAM chain.
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
Andrew Price
A Muzi wrote ...
> We build a lot of Campagnolo equipped bikes - more than any
> shop of my acquaintance. We don't use their chain at all.
>
lousy link.
Change to a Connex and its a liveable solution - just make sure it goes on
the right way up.
best, Andrew (who didn't get to use his 11 until he learnt which was up)
Paul Kopit
<arat...@bigpond.net.au.x1> wrote:
>Change to a Connex and its a liveable solution - just make sure it goes on
>the right way up.
I've had good luck with the IRD 10sp chain which also comes with a
link. I use Shimano 9sp chain and Sram Powerlink II and that works
fine too.
Alex Rodriguez
r.mccl...@insightbb.com says...
>After reading all this, do they expect anyone except professional team
>mechanics to buy their tool and chain and go through this?
Of course not. They give it to them for free. It's nice being sponsored.
-------------
Alex
A Muzi
>>We build a lot of Campagnolo equipped bikes - more than any
>>shop of my acquaintance. We don't use their chain at all.
Andrew Price wrote:
> Agree the others are better but the real problem with the Campy chain is the
> lousy link.
> Change to a Connex and its a liveable solution - just make sure it goes on
> the right way up.
I have to say I don't understand Wippermann's instructions
about reversing the snaplink for use with an 11t cog.
I mean, it is symmetric so what could change?
In the same vein, what's up with this?
http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/shim10cn.jpg
I really cannot understand what could make any difference
with the chain joint one way or the other
Qui si parla Campagnolo
about reversing the snaplink for use with an 11t cog. >><BR><BR>
If you look at the side profile of the link, it has a section that has a shaper
bend in it and one side has a more gradual bend, Ensure the gradual bend is
against the cogs.
If the sharper bend is on the 11t, it doesn't seat right, kinda like if it had
a 12t lockring.
Jim Flom
> I really cannot understand what could make any difference
> with the chain joint one way or the other
That's why in my first post in this thread I had that bit of hop in the
chain until P. Chisholm (as explained above) suggested I reverse the link.
I had an 11-tooth cog on at the time. Reversing the snaplink eliminated the
hop.
Jeff Starr
>
> I have to say I don't understand Wippermann's instructions
> about reversing the snaplink for use with an 11t cog.
>
> I mean, it is symmetric so what could change?
> In the same vein, what's up with this?
>
> http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/shim10cn.jpg
>
> I really cannot understand what could make any difference
> with the chain joint one way or the other
Hi, maybe you could explain to me how to identify the different link
pins. The instructions that came with my DA RD-7700-GS rear
derailleur, include chain pin instructions. It says: "The chain will
be damaged if it is cut at a place where it has been joined with a
reinforced connecting pin or an end pin."
Ok a reinforced connecting pin[rcp], is one of the replacement pins.
Another words, don't remove a pin in the same place, more than once.
But, what is an end pin? They have an illustration, but it isn't
clear, seeing as the rcp is in the same position as an end pin would
be. How do I identify the link pins and the end pins?
I did just use one of the links that looked like most of the rest. I
did find the original rcp and avoided it. When my LBS mechanic showed
me how do install the chain, he only mentioned not removing the same
pin.
Here is a link to the instructions:
http://bike.shimano.com/product_images/RD/si_images/RD_7700_SI.pdf
Thank you,
Jeff
A Muzi
> about reversing the snaplink for use with an 11t cog. >><BR><BR>
Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote:
> If you look at the side profile of the link, it has a section that has a shaper
> bend in it and one side has a more gradual bend, Ensure the gradual bend is
> against the cogs.
>
> If the sharper bend is on the 11t, it doesn't seat right, kinda like if it had
> a 12t lockring.
Ahhh, a closer look helped. Thanks.
Can't see much without the loupe now. . .
A Muzi
>>I really cannot understand what could make any difference
>>with the chain joint one way or the other
Jim Flom wrote:
> That's why in my first post in this thread I had that bit of hop in the
> chain until P. Chisholm (as explained above) suggested I reverse the link.
> I had an 11-tooth cog on at the time. Reversing the snaplink eliminated the
> hop.
I got a better look at the Wippermann. Any ideas on the
Shimano admonition?
http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/shim10cn.jpg