Island Odyssey#5
foon
Country - They call it country because right next to the
biggest and only resort hotel on the North Shore (TBH)
there's a dairy farm, and if the wind is just right you can
catch a whiff of that unmistakable odor of masticated grass,
mixed with water and processed through a cow's
gastrointestinal system. The Kam hiway is a little two lane
road that winds it's way past 7 miles of the most famous
breaks in the world. There is no development of the North
Shore on purpose. Many of the homes there are very old. It
is almost pristine and that's the way it must remain. A
surfer's magic playground for sure and definitely out in the
country
Foodland - The only name grocery store on the Kam hiway, it
packs them in at dinner time. We cruised the aisles for
some supplies and ran into many name surfers. We were
checking out behind a group of four of the Women's
competitors and I was amazed at some of the stuff they
bought. I can tell you what kind of food they eat,
cigarettes they smoke, magazines they read, hair color they
use (yes they do) make up they put on, snacks they eat,
beverages they drink and other stuff they use.. I will say
watching one of the biggest name women buy a loaf of Wonder
bread and a jar of peanut butter then make 5 sandwiches at
a little table out front and eat them, is not a sight you
see every day. The guys eat like garbage compactors,
anything and everything. There's a big name surfer who
apparently likes quart jars of pickled herring.
Pipeline - I only knew it the first time because Buddy told
me it was a hundred yards South of Ehukai Beach Park and
when I walked down there I saw the surfcam pointed
at.......nothing. It was flat and undistinguished looking,
not much different from many beaches with no surf. But I
sensed it was a very special place. During my final visit I
fairly shook with excitement. It was going off big and
nasty. The ground shook, the waves spit, the bodies flew,
the broken boards piled up, and the rip was incredible. I
have such great respect for anyone who paddled out that day,
and there were many determined to taunt the beast.
Incredible rides, wipeouts, drops, housings......surfing- a
very elite type. I consider this visit and the pictures I
got to be one of the highpoints of my stay on the North
Shore. The wave is so unique and simply the most amazing
thing to watch first hand.
Haleiwa - We went to Haleiwa every day. Either to shop,
watch the contest or eat a meal. I've visited and lived in a
few "Surf Towns" in my life, but I've never seen any to
compare with Haleiwa. It is extraordinary and it knows it.
The number of businesses associated with the surfing culture
is unusual, yet the spirit of aloha is every where. There
are many transplants. When asked if they could live
elsewhere, all said they wouldn't. I loved the town, the
shops, the galleries, the eateries, and the atmosphere.
Several of the restaurants, Jamesons, Joe's, had great pics
autographed by name surfers of them riding the world famous
breaks nearby. Huge and lovely specialty boards and
equipment were everywhere, and three contest surfers ate at
Joe's one night with their sponsor at a table right next to
us. I overheard them talking and was amazed to hear them
plotting strategy, like in, "your airs suck in 4-6 feet,
stick with the big turns, floaters and cutbacks." One of
these guys ate a chunk of prime rib, bigger than his head.
Another drank too much. The sponsor picked up the tab.
Waimea Bay - Was completely quiet while I was there except
one afternoon the point at the Northern side was going off
at about 10-15 faces, 5 guys out. Other spots on the North
Shore were bombing. I can't imagine what it takes for Waimea
to crank up. The pictures I've seen make me believe the
outside reefs don't start showing until maybe 15-20 foot
faces. The shorebreak that same afternoon was about 6 foot.
Pacific Marine Arts - A gallery in Haleiwa was featuring
Steven Valiere, an artist whose unusual surf art was
featured last year in Surfer's Journal. I didn't know who
he was but struck up a conversation with him about one of
the paintings I recognized from the Journal. He had the
original there plus a reprint which looked identical right
down to the oil paint brush strokes. When I asked how this
was possible he said it was a process which scanned the
original then reproduced a reprint using a very
sophisticated laser (like Iris) printer. He then went back
over the reprint with a brush and paint recreating but not
exactly the texture of the original. He did this for a
limited number of reprints which he numbered and
authenticated. Steven was a super interesting artist,
transplanted I believe from California, now living in Kauai.
We spent an hour discussing the color printing of his work
in catalogs and magazines. He invited us to a private party
that night at the gallery with free food and drinks, but we
never got there due to some happy hour at our hotel.
Surf Wheels - I think it's a point of honor on the North
Shore among locals, to own a car or truck specifically to
go to the beach in. It seems this vehicle must be barely
operating, and almost totally unworthy of driving on the
road or passing inspection. The collection of wrecks I
witnessed with boards hanging out or stacked on would make a
junkyard owner salivate. The ones missing lights were
especially interesting since they were very hard to see at
night. I saw one cop car the entire week on the North Shore
and it said, Honolulu Police, on the side.
North Shore Market Place - a great little shopping plaza in
Haleiwa that contained at least 4 surf shops, three
restaurants (not including a nondescript KFC) two art
galleries, a surfing museum, several clothing stores and
gift shops. Strong Current Surf Co is where I bought my 2000
Woodies Calendar. Down the way I picked up a few pounds of
Kona Blend coffee. One day for lunch we ate at a little
cafe called Chulo's and I had a slightly scary moment:
We'd sat down in the colorfully decorated Mexican motif
dining area. A huge man of Island ancestry with a long,
thick, black pony tail to his waist and biceps the size of
oil drums greeted us with a "Howzit" and a friendly smile,
offering us some tropical drinks. The menu was quite
interesting with many original mexican type entrees. When
"Kimo" came to take our order I had made up my my mind.
"I think I'll have the quesadilla Kimo." Kimo didn't reply
but looked at me expectantly as though I needed to tell him
much more. Not having my reading glasses I was unaware there
were possibly several kinds and I frantically looked at the
small print on the menu. Kimo's patient demeanor turned
into an angry stare, as I glanced up after a few minutes and
saw him flexing his arms and tapping his pencil on the
check. Finally he blurted out, "Want BEEF?"
Alarms went off in my head as I knew from Neal's tutoring
that this was a very serious threat from a Bruddah and I was
about to get my ass kicked. I broke into a cold sweat just
as MrsFoon touched my arm and said, "Beef, chicken, veggie,
or shrimp Foon. Those are the choices". Kimo smiled and
nodded. I ordered shredded beef in honor of my server, and
another pineapple-quava smoothie. I gotta bone up more on my
Hawaiian :)
Sunset at Sunset- One night MrsFoon and I decided to watch
what promised to be a spectacular sunset at Sunset Beach.
It was only a short ride from the hotel and we pulled into a
one of the few open parking spaces by the side of the road.
Sunset Beach Park was jammed that evening. The surf was
going off and the lineup was thick. Every wave had an
incredibly skilled rider. Standing barrel after massive whip
turn, after monster floater occurred for our enjoyment. As
the big red ball headed for it's nightly nap we broke out a
gift bottle of champagne and a bag of Goldfish crackers (I
know, I'm a hopeless romantic) and toasted our good fortune
being at this place at this time of our lives watching an
incredible spectacle. The sunset was awesome, and so were
the waves. The goldfish weren't bad either, but next time
I'll get the extra cheddar.
-Foon
el_roca
> Snapshots of the North Shore:
>
It's a heiau (shrine) above Waimea.A place where
people leave offerings to honor the ancestors.
I was moved by the feeling of ancient
tradition I got from the place.
The place overlooks Waimea Bay, all the way out to
Kaena Point.There's a ledge at the edge of a
cliff, right above the road where it passes
the inside corner of the bay.Here's a couple
pics from up there,and a view of the heiau
accompanied by a sunset looking across the
beach toward Kaena.
http://homestead.deja.com/user.el_roca/files/mahukas6.jpg
http://homestead.deja.com/user.el_roca/files/puubay.jpg
--
><
el_roca
><
http://homestead.deja.com/user.el_roca/
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Before you buy.
Foon
el_roca wrote:
>
> foon wrote:
> > Snapshots of the North Shore:
> >
> Did anyone show you Pu'u O Mahuka?
No, but we passed Waimea every day a few times. I was
vaguely aware something like that was up on the hill, but we
passed by the area not willing to explore, intent on going
to other things. Waimea Falls park has been turned into some
kind of adventure land which you pay to enter then take
nature walks or jungle cruises or something. The whole time
we were there the place looked deserted. Thanks for the pics
El roca.
-Foon
Neal Miyake
: Snapshots of the North Shore: <snip>
: Pipeline - <snip> The wave is so unique and simply the most amazing
: thing to watch first hand.
Watch out. Rick C. might have something to say about that. :-)
: Haleiwa - We went to Haleiwa every day. Either to shop,
: watch the contest or eat a meal. I've visited and lived in a
: few "Surf Towns" in my life, but I've never seen any to
: compare with Haleiwa...
Remember that argument between Santa Cruz and Huntington over which one
could be called Surf City, USA?
: Surf Wheels - I think it's a point of honor on the North
: Shore among locals, to own a car or truck specifically to
: go to the beach in. It seems this vehicle must be barely
: operating, and almost totally unworthy of driving on the
: road or passing inspection.
http://www.iav.com/~sponge/stuff/images/oldcar.jpg
<snipped some of Foon's waiter ordeal>
: Kimo's patient demeanor turned
: into an angry stare, as I glanced up after a few minutes and
: saw him flexing his arms and tapping his pencil on the
: check. Finally he blurted out, "Want BEEF?"
: Alarms went off in my head as I knew from Neal's tutoring
: that this was a very serious threat from a Bruddah and I was
: about to get my ass kicked. I broke into a cold sweat just
: as MrsFoon touched my arm and said, "Beef, chicken, veggie,
: or shrimp Foon. Those are the choices". Kimo smiled and
: nodded. I ordered shredded beef in honor of my server, and
: another pineapple-quava smoothie. I gotta bone up more on my
: Hawaiian :)
Read my latest post--Hooked on EhBrahnics. Also, reread your Pidgin To da
Max Book.
: Sunset at Sunset- One night MrsFoon and I decided to watch
: what promised to be a spectacular sunset at Sunset Beach...
So cute! Glad you guys enjoyed. We enjoyed having you here.
Aloha,
sponge
MikeC
I remember going down to Pipeline the first time and just staring at what
was happening in the water and the how the ground rumbled when the wave
broke. If it weren't for my buddy dragging me down to Makaha I would have
sat there all day watching.
Thanks, I'm getting out the pictures.....
--
MikeC
http://www.northbeachsurf.com
Mama Sus
> foon (wfo...@nist.gov) wrote:
> : Surf Wheels - I think it's a point of honor on the North
> : Shore among locals, to own a car or truck specifically to
> : go to the beach in. It seems this vehicle must be barely
> : operating, and almost totally unworthy of driving on the
> : road or passing inspection.
http://www.angelfire.com/hi2/MamaJamaSus/index.html
(Da buggah wen make, now me stay wit da '74 Comet ... mo'bettah!)
Sus
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cor...@mediaone.net
> el_roca wrote:
> >
> :
> > >
> > Did anyone show you Pu'u O Mahuka?
A most beautiful place indeed Roca, it was great to be reminded again of
the wonderful view thru your pictures.
> No, but we passed Waimea every day a few times. I was
> vaguely aware something like that was up on the hill, but we
> passed by the area not willing to explore, intent on going
> to other things. Waimea Falls park has been turned into some
> kind of adventure land which you pay to enter then take
> nature walks or jungle cruises or something.
I know what you mean about the Waimea Falls resort area Foon, it has all
changed so much there. But for awhile they offered a wonderful walk
there through the Hawai'i Trail and Mountain club. Once a month, on
what ever Thursday night was closest the full moon, there was a
moonlight walk, that started at about 9 PM and it was open to the public
for a small donation. The only lights on, were the flashlights we
brought......and it was the most incredible walk to go on!...we hiked
all the way up to the falls.....it was so peaceful and you just heard
the sound of the wind in the trees and of animals and birds and the
sound of the waterfall in the cool night air.
We used to try to go each month....we'd leave right after work for the
North Shore....and drive up to the heiau, Pu'u O Mahuka, that Roca spoke
of....we'd go sit on the edge of the cliff, and watch the sun go
down over the water....then we'd head into Haleiwa and go to the
Charthouse restaurant, which is this great, friendly place where you
could sit on the lanai outside with tiki torches....great salad bar and
fish and a lot of the waiters/waitresses were surfers, who worked there
at night so they could surf by day. We'd have a glass of wine, eat,
talk story....and then, head back to Waimea Falls and go on the two hour
moonlight walk. It was so great! But about three years ago they started
having a nighttime luau show and discontinued the nighttime flashlight
walks.....so we went walking on the beach after dinner instead. Your
posts reminded me of this fond memory.
Thank you!......and With Aloha,
Dee Dee
>
el_roca
>Waimea Falls park has been turned into some
> kind of adventure land which you pay to enter then take
> we were there the place looked deserted.
>
1986 Aikau contest,a SWAT team evicted the last remaining native
Hawaiian family that lived there.I believe their name was Brown.
They had been fighting to stay on the land for some time.I think the
state took the property by eminent domain.I saw the SWAT team crawling
all over the place,and was saddened by the whole scene,and angered,too.
I thought it a further insult that they decided to do the eviction on
a day that was held to honor a native son.Auwe.
To anyone that visits Hawaii, boycott Waimea Falls Park!
--
><
el_roca "Captain Cook died for your sins" (bumpersticker)
Foon
cor...@mediaone.net wrote:
>
> A most beautiful place indeed Roca, it was great to be reminded again of
> the wonderful view thru your pictures.
>
> > Waimea Falls park has been turned into some
> > kind of adventure land which you pay to enter then take
> > nature walks or jungle cruises or something.
>
> I know what you mean about the Waimea Falls resort area Foon, it has all
> changed so much there.
I wouldn't be surprised if some day they offered some kind
of hokey motorized outrigger canoe ride out in the Bay on
say a 20 foot day. Talk about your thrill rides.
We did take a kayak, hiking adventure in Kauai up the Wailua
river. Though a modest trip by hardcore hikers standards, we
did see some beautiful scenery and a few places where
Jurassic Park and the African Queen were filmed. I've never
kayaked in my life so paddling for a few hours gave me a
whole new appreciation for the rigors of the sport.
(btw Jules and Steve are ace kayakers - saw the pics on
their frig)
Luckily some of my weight training helped me survive the
trip. MrsFoon is gonna have to get back in the gym though.
Do you know what standing under a hundred foot water fall
does to your head? A lot more than parting your hair.
-Foon (Quick you physics weenies -What's the force of one
gallon of water falling 100 feet?)
"Is it progress if a cannibal uses a knife and fork?"
-Stanislaw Lec
Surfer Bob
> ..."Want BEEF?"
BWAHAHAA! Was this story embellished much? That's pretty funny, Foonster.
Surfer Bob