All year, from the time we discussed it in January, I was eager to go.
But after a brutal month of Oct. both of us were kind of beat up for
the trip. I was not on top of my game physically, and MrsFoon was
preoccupied with other things. We planned to stay at the airport the
night before our early flight, which was a huge tactical error, seeing
that the Fairfield Inn we chose was at the foot of a runway. As a
result, I got 3 hours sleep before we left, and even though the First
Class cabin was a novelty and very decadent, I don't recommend it. You
will never be satisfied with the treatment you receive in coach again.
Arriving in Oahu I had the usual hassles with Avis over wheels and
chose a Teal looking Grand Am. Peppy but junky too. The ride from the
airport to the Turtle Bay Hilton on the very tip of the North Shore
was dangerous since I was starting to hit the fatigue wall, and the
Kam Hiway was thick with surfers and cars since a sizable swell was in
town. I kept narrowly missing hitting people as I craned my neck to
see some of the name spots. Finally, MrsFoon shouted that if I didn't
pay more attention to my driving she was going to take the wheel (and
club me in the head with it).
We chose the Turtle Bay Hilton on the advice of several ASers (thanks
guys) and since it is almost literally the only resort Hotel on the
North Shore. We had a top floor room overlooking the point with a very
nice break right next door. The plushness and amenities were mostly
wasted on us since we don't play golf, tennis, or horseback ride. The
TBH is a hotel on the mend with major renovations to the facility to
make it a 4 star joint again. The exterior is kind of beat up with big
chunks of cement missing from exterior balconies and walls as a result
of the weather conditions and age of the place.
After checking into the room and virtually blind with fatigue, I was
starting to collapse after making my connection calls to Neal. He was
ready and raring to go the very next morning and I agreed with good
intentions. I fell asleep immediately and woke up bright and awake at
MIDNIGHT (5:00am my time) and remained awake all night until Neal and
Buddy came to get me at 6 the next morning. By then I was so tired I
had tremors in my legs just standing, but I was determined to dawn
patrol with them. I soon realized if I even walked across the Kam
hiway, I was in grave danger. A paddle out was out of the question.
What can I say about Neal and Buddy? Exceptional people, very
generous, kind, friendly, concerned about my fatigued state, yet
stoked to hook up and patrol. At Laniakea we met Jules in the predawn
light. Neal patiently described the Lani setup pointing out channels,
reefs, sections etc. All the while my legs were almost in collapse as
I leaned against Neal's car.
I watched as Neal and Buddy escorted Jules out through the tricky
channel, then watched them put on a surfing demonstration in the
marginal conditions that morning. The place filled quickly, but I
could always make out Neal (riding his yellow spongerocket and
demonstrating all the moves a contest rated bodyboarder of high
quality can do) and Buddy, who in distinctive red Aloha print trunks,
could be seen charging the very biggest and choicest of the Lani's
crushers. I'll take a chance here and say if there were a contest
among all the best surfers on the ng, Bud would be in the top three.
He is a hard charging, talented pocketmaster, and a real pleasure to
watch.
Jules came in a little early and we got to talk story. Later Neal and
Bud came in as the wind got on it, and we stood around getting to know
one another.
All of a sudden a big white Van with AIPA Surfboards pulls in the Lani
lot and Neal walks over to talk to legendary surfer Ben Aipa. To my
amazement he brings Ben over to meet Jules and I. I am speechless to
be in contact with this famous surfer. It's been quite a year for me.
First Tubesteak, then Robert August, now Ben Aipa. I am flushed with
awe.
Seeing that I am on my last legs the group decides to hit my Hotel for
grinds and more talk. Everyone has things to do that day and the
breakfast is short but a lot of fun. What is not always conveyed in
these people's posts is how funny they are. I will relate a story Neal
told about another ASer named Fred the Pup later, which had us all
peeing our pants at Neal's house. Buddy, Neal and Jules are just great
people to sit and chat with. So interesting and informative about many
things other than surfing, yet all stoked to be out in the water
anytime.
Finally, I bid them farewell promising to make the next dawn patrol,
Sunday. I went up to my room to get some zzzzzzzs only to have the
full defensive line of the Fresno State Football team (staying at the
Hilton and in town for a huge game against Hawaii) make so much noise,
I couldn't sleep again. Total snooze time 7 hours in 48.
Still tired I hit the reef next door for a two hour session on
Saturday and shared it with a bunch of hotel employees on break and
some bodyboarders. The waves seem huge, yet 3 of 5 back off the reef
and provide a very gradual ride with lots of opportunity to cut back
and position for the reforms. No one rides them all the way in since
paddling back out is a bitch against the current. There's a jump off
spot on the point among some very sharp lava rock. I see several guys
time the jump to hit the trough of the wave so they aren't driven back
into the rock. I calculate that if I tried to make the 5 foot jump, it
would be the shortest vacation I ever took. A guaranteed trip to the
hospital. I take the long way and paddle out from the beach. The
distance is far more than I'm used to on the Right Coast, and it takes
it's toll. I have noodle arms after just 4 waves. So I linger outside
and start just taking the drop, then get out which is easy since there
is almost no wall after the drop until well inside.
Set waves by my Right Coast standard were 6-8 feet, green tinted
water, bright blue sky, white puffy clouds. I am in ecstasy.
In the evening, I'm nervous and antsy but the session has settled me
down. The jetlag is killing me. That night I sleep like the dead for
almost 12 hours. By dawn I feel refreshed but I still have bad
arthritis in my left leg, the previous days session and massive
amounts of Motrin have not loosened it up. I feel like I need a cane
to walk. I get up anyway determined to meet the AS Hawaii chapter for
a surf. I take 800 mgs Motrin and head out in the dark, down the Kam
hiway past some of the most famous breaks in the world.
Next: One Foot Hawaiian - my fat white okole!
-Foon
Foon, you have a special missus. She and I had a great time driving
back from the country (see upcoming story: "One Foot Hawaiian - my fat
white okole!"). But you know, as such a nifty guy, you deserve an
equally nifty partner.
I hope you write fast, because I'm off to New Zealand for 2 weeks come
Tuesday. (mostly work). I'll read whatever you post before then, and
after that it will have to be deja news. I've been sick for the last
week - this is a new record for me: It's been 10 days since I went out
on the board. Winds are predicted to be 15-30 till I leave, which
doesn't help much. Oh well, I'll make it up.
It was really cool having you come hook up with AS folks here: I had
never met Neal before, and only met Bud when he was kind enough to be
the country tourguide for Ggcarroll, Mama Sus, Steve and me.
My hope is to be able to handle those lil'ol waves we saw. Whadday
think?
Take care. Good luck reacclimating...
Jules
<snip>
: I'll take a chance here and say if there were a contest
: among all the best surfers on the ng, Bud would be in the top three.
: He is a hard charging, talented pocketmaster, and a real pleasure to
: watch.
I'd say he's #1, hands down.
<grin> Great start, Foon! Looking forward to reading the rest.
To all you alt.surfers, remember: Don't believe anything Foon writes,
especially on his next story. He suffers from delirium from one too many
MaiTais and heatstroke on his white okole!
sponge
: : I'll take a chance here and say if there were a contest
: : among all the best surfers on the ng, Bud would be in the top three.
: : He is a hard charging, talented pocketmaster, and a real pleasure to
: : watch.
: I'd say he's #1, hands down.
: To all you alt.surfers, remember: Don't believe anything Foon writes,
Um, Neal? If we're not to believe anything Foon writes, and he
says Bud is in the top three... And you, in turn, say he's #1, I guess
that means Bud is a big ol' poser with a bunch of lackies as friends??
<insert the "sorry, just living up to my reputation as an
overanalyzer of posts; I really believe Bud is a rippah" smiley
face here>
Later,
Steve
--
Will have a new sig for the new millenium....whoops...I
guess I'm early.
: : : I'll take a chance here and say if there were a contest
: : : among all the best surfers on the ng, Bud would be in the top three.
: : : He is a hard charging, talented pocketmaster, and a real pleasure to
: : : watch.
: : I'd say he's #1, hands down.
: : To all you alt.surfers, remember: Don't believe anything Foon writes,
: Um, Neal? If we're not to believe anything Foon writes, and he
: says Bud is in the top three... And you, in turn, say he's #1, I guess
: that means Bud is a big ol' poser with a bunch of lackies as friends??
: <insert the "sorry, just living up to my reputation as an
: overanalyzer of posts; I really believe Bud is a rippah" smiley
: face here>
I said "don't believe anything Foon writes," not "don't believe what I
write." No wonder they call you "the Mind". :-)
sponge (aka gray matter)
: : : : I'll take a chance here and say if there were a contest
: : : : among all the best surfers on the ng, Bud would be in the top three.
: : : : He is a hard charging, talented pocketmaster, and a real pleasure to
: : : : watch.
: : : I'd say he's #1, hands down.
: : : To all you alt.surfers, remember: Don't believe anything Foon writes,
<snipped my previous reply which drew the following response>
: I said "don't believe anything Foon writes," not "don't believe what I
: write." No wonder they call you "the Mind". :-)
Well, I'm gonna be "the Mind" one more time: Don't you see??
If we're not supposed to believe what Foon writes, and he says
Bud is in the top three, we are supposed to conclude that
Bud is not in the top 3 cuz were not supposed to believe Foon.
If Bud is not in the top 3, then we can't believe you when you
say he is #1, cuz Foon already disproved that as a possibility
by saying it *was* a possibility (but we're not supposed to believe him).
Therefore, you are lying and Bud can't be number 1. Then,
again, if you are lying, maybe we can't believe what *you*
write. If we can't believe what you write, then we can't
believe it is true that we should not believe what Foon writes.
Therefore, Foon *can* be believed, and Bud must be in the
top three. So.....Who should we believe??
Have I got that vein throbbing in your head that Foon said
happens to him when he reads some of my posts? That is, of
course, if I can believe Foon when he said that.
*******
******* *
******* **
******* ***
****
******* *****
******* *****
******* *****
******* *****
*****
****
******* ***
******* **
******* *
*******
steve m wrote:
<snipped vein throbbing logic of Steve>
> Have I got that vein throbbing in your head that Foon said
> happens to him when he reads some of my posts? That is, of
> course, if I can believe Foon when he said that.
Yes. btw, Thanks steve for the suggestion to visit your
relatives in Hanalei. Big Tim was a righteous and regular
guy and very down to earth. I think you should go visit and
spend a lot of time around him. He sees things very clearly.
<insert smiley face of the winky persuasion trusting Steve
knows what I mean>
-Foon
Tom Keener wrote:
> On Sun, 28 Nov 1999 18:37:18 -0500, foon <wfo...@nist.gov> wrote:
>
> >... even though the First
> >Class cabin was a novelty and very decadent, I don't recommend it. You
> >will never be satisfied with the treatment you receive in coach again.
>
> I don't know if I'm more jealous of the waves you scored or the first
> class tickets. Just once I'd like to make a long distance flight with
> some legroom.
I thought of both you and George. The reason we spent the extra bucks is we
knew the long flight would be uncomfortable in coach..
The space in the first class cabin of a 747 is just ridiculous. The chairs
almost recline horizontally for god sake. They are two by two with
individual video consoles, 14 channels of programming and a wide selection
of first run movies you can choose (I watched Sixth Sense) What's almost
annoying is the constant questions about what you'd like to eat or drink.
Like I said, very decadent, it did not make me feel that good, except for
the extra extra leg room.
MrsFoon was very favorably impress though and is planning a return trip
when she retires in 7 years.
-Foon
sponge ("Steve, do you believe I sighed?")
steve m (ste...@sl001.infi.net) wrote:
: Neal Miyake wrote:
: : : Neal Miyake wrote:
: : : : foon (wfo...@nist.gov) wrote:
: : : : : I'll take a chance here and say if there were a contest
: : : : : among all the best surfers on the ng, Bud would be in the top three.
: : : : : He is a hard charging, talented pocketmaster, and a real pleasure to
: : : : : watch.
: : : : I'd say he's #1, hands down.
: : : : To all you alt.surfers, remember: Don't believe anything Foon writes,
: <snipped my previous reply which drew the following response>
: : I said "don't believe anything Foon writes," not "don't believe what I
: : write." No wonder they call you "the Mind". :-)
: Well, I'm gonna be "the Mind" one more time: Don't you see??
: If we're not supposed to believe what Foon writes, and he says
: Bud is in the top three, we are supposed to conclude that
: Bud is not in the top 3 cuz were not supposed to believe Foon.
: If Bud is not in the top 3, then we can't believe you when you
: say he is #1, cuz Foon already disproved that as a possibility
: by saying it *was* a possibility (but we're not supposed to believe him).
: Therefore, you are lying and Bud can't be number 1. Then,
: again, if you are lying, maybe we can't believe what *you*
: write. If we can't believe what you write, then we can't
: believe it is true that we should not believe what Foon writes.
: Therefore, Foon *can* be believed, and Bud must be in the
: top three. So.....Who should we believe??
: Have I got that vein throbbing in your head that Foon said
: happens to him when he reads some of my posts? That is, of
: course, if I can believe Foon when he said that.
: *******
>... even though the First
>Class cabin was a novelty and very decadent, I don't recommend it. You
>will never be satisfied with the treatment you receive in coach again.
I don't know if I'm more jealous of the waves you scored or the first
class tickets. Just once I'd like to make a long distance flight with
some legroom.
Tom Keener
keensurf_at_cts_dot_com
Here's a trick I learned... If you can reserve seats on puchase, which is
easy online, try to get the very first row of coach class.
You get all the leg room you need cause there's no seat in front of you.
You also get first service from the attendant. The air quality seems a lot
less stuffy too.
Ferg.
> Well, I'm gonna be "the Mind" one more time: Don't you see??
I don't know what drugs you're taking, but they're NOT WORKING!
Tom Keener
keensurf_at_cts_dot_com
foon wrote:
>
> Tom Keener wrote:
>
> > On Sun, 28 Nov 1999 18:37:18 -0500, foon <wfo...@nist.gov> wrote:
> >
> > >... even though the First
> > >Class cabin was a novelty and very decadent, I don't recommend it. You
> > >will never be satisfied with the treatment you receive in coach again.
> >
> > I don't know if I'm more jealous of the waves you scored or the first
> > class tickets. Just once I'd like to make a long distance flight with
> > some legroom.
>
> I thought of both you and George. The reason we spent the extra bucks is we
> knew the long flight would be uncomfortable in coach..
> The space in the first class cabin of a 747 is just ridiculous. The chairs
> almost recline horizontally for god sake. They are two by two with
> individual video consoles, 14 channels of programming and a wide selection
> of first run movies you can choose (I watched Sixth Sense) What's almost
> annoying is the constant questions about what you'd like to eat or drink.
> Like I said, very decadent, it did not make me feel that good, except for
> the extra extra leg room.
>