LEGO Trains - Information Request
Michael D'Alessandro
I'm interested in information on the current batch of LEGO trains:
- Is it true they are G scale, and will run on standard G scale track?
- How do they operate - smoothly, or jerkily?
- To current owners, how do you like them?
Michael
--
Michael D'Alessandro, M.D.
Electric Differential Multimedia Laboratory
University of Iowa Hospitals and Clinics Department of Radiology
Email: san...@lhc.nlm.nih.gov
Preston F. Crow
>I'm interested in information on the current batch of LEGO trains:
>- Is it true they are G scale, and will run on standard G scale track?
I don't know, but the electric trains are the same scale as the old
non-electric LEGO trains. That is, there are four bumps in-between
the two rails.
If it's compatible with a standard gauge track, then I would be very
interested in using it instead. K-Mart sells a half-circle of the
LEGO track for $11.68, and that's a bit much if you want to do
anything fancy. Perhaps the answer belongs in the FAQ section on
compatible brands. (If there isn't such a section, there should be.)
>- How do they operate - smoothly, or jerkily?
I have a Load 'N Haul Railroad. It runs rather smoothly, though you
can hear the wheels going over each change in track. I find that at
maximum speed, the train won't derail except when going over a switch.
>- To current owners, how do you like them?
My only complaint is that the motor seems to get overworked and stop
if you do a lot of back-and-forth stuff with it. The train will then
refuse to move until you turn the power control to the stop position
and wait a minute. When I leave the train going at a constant speed,
it seems to run almost forever.
Another quirk that I found is that the switches not only control which
direction the train will go, but also control which direction the
power flows. Of course, if this gets to be a problem, I could attach
some wires to bypass this feature. I also am a little annoyed that I
can't hook up some remote control to the switches. (I'm also annoyed
by the price.)
Overall, I'm quite happy with it. Of course, I've always loved trains
and LEGO's, and now my Dad works for a company that makes real trains
(MK), so I'm a bit biased in favor of the whole concept.
--PC
--
From a "fortune" program: Eleanor Rigby Sits at the keyboard
And waits for a line on the screen Lives in a dream Waits for a signal
Finding some code That will make the machine do some more. What is it for?
All the lonely users, where do they all come from? All the lonely users, why does it take so long?
Mike Clemens
>In <1993Feb23.0...@nlm.nih.gov> san...@lhc.nlm.nih.gov (Michael D'Alessandro) writes:
>
>>- How do they operate - smoothly, or jerkily?
>
>I have a Load 'N Haul Railroad. It runs rather smoothly, though you
>can hear the wheels going over each change in track.
This is realistic as anyone who's lived near train tracks will tell
you (being lulled to sleep by the click-clack, click-clack...) :-)
>I find that at maximum speed, the train won't derail except when
>going over a switch.
Like Amtrak... >:->
[...]
- Mike
Fredrik Br{utigam
>- Is it true they are G scale, and will run on standard G scale track?
I guess you can't really claim that they're true-to-scale models.
Anyway, the gauge for standard G scale (like LGB/Playmobil) is
45mm. LGB gets the current from the rails, whereas LEGO trains get
it from some sort of extra rails mounted between the usual ones.
Also, I guess there can be problems about making the LEGO trains
pass through LGB turnouts, due to oversized wheel flanges, etc.
/Fred
--
Fredrik Br{utigam d2f...@dtek.chalmers.se
Chalmers University of Technology, Goteborg, Sweden - Suede
*** She's waiting for Prince Charming to arrive.
I'm waiting for her to pick up the frog. ***
Preston F. Crow
>san...@lhc.nlm.nih.gov (Michael D'Alessandro) writes:
>>- Is it true they are G scale, and will run on standard G scale track?
>I guess you can't really claim that they're true-to-scale models.
>Anyway, the gauge for standard G scale (like LGB/Playmobil) is
>45mm. LGB gets the current from the rails, whereas LEGO trains get
>it from some sort of extra rails mounted between the usual ones.
>Also, I guess there can be problems about making the LEGO trains
>pass through LGB turnouts, due to oversized wheel flanges, etc.
The above is not exactly right. The LEGO trains get their current
from the rails in the same manner as a typical electric train would.
There are no extra rails.
As to the spacing, the rails have four bumps between them. What is
the bump-center to bump-center distance? And what measurment is the
45mm? Inside to inside? I'll have to measure that distance tonight.
--PC
--
The position and/or opinions in the above message are those of the Board of
Trustees of Dartmouth College. Copyright (c) 1992. All right reserved. The
above positions are also held by Rush Limbaugh, many foriegn world leaders, and
you who are reading them. Preston bears no responsibility for the content.
Tom Pfeifer
|> In <d2fred.7...@dtek.chalmers.se> d2f...@dtek.chalmers.se (Fredrik Br{utigam) writes:
|>
|> >san...@lhc.nlm.nih.gov (Michael D'Alessandro) writes:
|>
|> >45mm. LGB gets the current from the rails, whereas LEGO trains get
|> >it from some sort of extra rails mounted between the usual ones.
|>
|> from the rails in the same manner as a typical electric train would.
|> There are no extra rails.
Hi kids, you are both right. You speak about different generations of LEGO
trains. The older ones have plastic rails (blue or grey), with the choice
of batteries inside the train or a separate transformer which feeds the current
thru extra rails in the middle of a track. The new system, which is currently
sold, has metal rails which also provides the current.
Tom
Andrew Scott Beals -- KC6SSS
>The above is not exactly right. The LEGO trains get their current
>from the rails in the same manner as a typical electric train would.
>There are no extra rails.
There appears to be at least four styles of LEGO trains:
1. Monorails
2. '70s trains, battery powered, pulled by big black motor.
3. Four-rail trains. Old-style rails, 2 electric rails.
4. Two-rail trains. Real metal tracks just like "real" toy trains.
Chris Webster
>In <d2fred.7...@dtek.chalmers.se> d2f...@dtek.chalmers.se (Fredrik Br{utigam) writes:
>
>>san...@lhc.nlm.nih.gov (Michael D'Alessandro) writes:
>
>>>- Is it true they are G scale, and will run on standard G scale track?
>
>>I guess you can't really claim that they're true-to-scale models.
>>Anyway, the gauge for standard G scale (like LGB/Playmobil) is
>>45mm. LGB gets the current from the rails, whereas LEGO trains get
>>it from some sort of extra rails mounted between the usual ones.
>>Also, I guess there can be problems about making the LEGO trains
>>pass through LGB turnouts, due to oversized wheel flanges, etc.
>
>The above is not exactly right. The LEGO trains get their current
>from the rails in the same manner as a typical electric train would.
>There are no extra rails.
>
>As to the spacing, the rails have four bumps between them. What is
>the bump-center to bump-center distance? And what measurment is the
>45mm? Inside to inside? I'll have to measure that distance tonight.
>
>--PC
>
Actually, there are three variants of lego trains. The newest batch come
with metal tracks, and run like a regular dc train. Previously, lego
trains came with plastic track and (in the U.S.) ran off of batteries
hauled in the second car. Apparently, the European models were
variable speed/power pack operated, using the same plastic track, except
there was a strip down the middle used as the power pickup.