Anti Seize
Jay C
grease to try to thwart the galvanic reaction between Al and steel on
appropriate bolts. Are there any potential problems with this or any
outstanding advantages to specific anti-seize compounds; is grease OK to
use?
Jay
Patrick Riley
Jay C wrote in message ...
I have long used Permatex Anti-Seize on all bolts related to the brake
caliper (including the retaining pin for the brake pads). It sure makes
removal easier. I have not had any problems with bolts coming loose.
This year I am also using it on head and base studs before torquing.
Scot Shepherd
Jay C <stumpy....@cwix.com> wrote in article
<XUiy2.4794$tw4....@news.cwix.com>...
[snip]
> Are there any potential problems with this or any
> outstanding advantages to specific anti-seize compounds; is grease OK to
> use?
>
I wouldn't know about anti seize since I've always just used grease with no
perceptible problems...
Scot
> Jay
>
>
>
OH-
Jay C asked ...
>Simply because I don't have any anti-seize compound around I've been using
>grease to try to thwart the galvanic reaction between Al and steel on
>outstanding advantages to specific anti-seize compounds; is grease OK to
>use?
I wouldn't use regular grease on high temp threads like on the exhaust port,
other places I use both with only a slight percieved edge for the
anti-seize in ease of removal and general "feel".
Do not use anti-seize on anything that moves, it's not a lubricant.
Ole
C5FltEngnr
I cant find the article right now but here is what i remember about oil and
grease. If you use grease or oil on bolts that don't call for it, you need to
reduce the torque by 50%. Most torque figures are for clean, dry threads,
unless instructed otherwise. The oil or grease can cause the bolt to be over
stretched. Torquing the bolt stretches it and holds the nut secure. Oil or
grease allows to much stretch, this can snap the bolt or distort whatever your
torquing.
Anti Seize is not a lubricant, and therefore doesn't throw off torque
readings.
If i get time i will try dig out the article and update this thread.
It's better to be safe than sorry. I wouldn't continue this practice, if not
called for buy the manufacter.
Happy and safe wrenching.
Mark
C5FLTENGNR
Wishing i was half as good as I'd like to be!
Remove .nospam
SX Fans
>I have long used Permatex Anti-Seize on all bolts related to the brake
>caliper (including the retaining pin for the brake pads). It sure makes
>removal easier. I have not had any problems with bolts coming loose.
>This year I am also using it on head and base studs before torquing.
What? you use it on the bolts that hold the front break calipers on? If so, are
they the floating front discs break type? What bike & what year is it?
Stan
Patrick Riley
C5FltEngnr wrote in message
<19990216180014...@ng-cg1.aol.com>...
>Gentlemen
> I cant find the article right now but here is what i remember about oil
and
>grease. If you use grease or oil on bolts that don't call for it, you need
to
>reduce the torque by 50%. Most torque figures are for clean, dry threads,
>unless instructed otherwise. The oil or grease can cause the bolt to be
over
>stretched. Torquing the bolt stretches it and holds the nut secure. Oil or
>grease allows to much stretch, this can snap the bolt or distort whatever
your
>torquing.
> Anti Seize is not a lubricant, and therefore doesn't throw off torque
>readings.
> If i get time i will try dig out the article and update this thread.
>It's better to be safe than sorry. I wouldn't continue this practice, if
not
>called for buy the manufacter.
> Happy and safe wrenching.
>Mark
You may be right.... But I was always taught to lubricate threads prior to
torqueing. Dry threads have a tendency to gaul(sp?), causing sticking while
torqueing.
I also understand that anti-seize is not supposed to be a lubricant, but it
does lubricate to some extent. I agree with you that anti-seize does seem
to allow for good torque measurement.
Pat Riley
Patrick Riley
SX Fans wrote in message <19990216181525...@ng22.aol.com>...
The bikes are: 1999 KX125/250. The anti-seize works very well on the
caliper bolts.
I do *not* use anti-seize on the actual break disc. I use Loc-Tite 272
there.
Pat Riley
sTeVe?
<ri...@co.intel.com> wrote:
>You may be right.... But I was always taught to lubricate threads prior to
>torqueing. Dry threads have a tendency to gaul(sp?), causing sticking while
>torqueing.
>I also understand that anti-seize is not supposed to be a lubricant, but it
>does lubricate to some extent. I agree with you that anti-seize does seem
>to allow for good torque measurement.
I would agree with this. I use Never-Sieze at work constantly, it
definitely helps bolts go in smoother.
Steve
Dave Dude
wrote:
>Simply because I don't have any anti-seize compound around I've been using
>grease to try to thwart the galvanic reaction between Al and steel on
>appropriate bolts. Are there any potential problems with this or any
>outstanding advantages to specific anti-seize compounds; is grease OK to
>use?
>
>Jay
>
>
Dude the only prob I can think of or knowe about would be heat-I'm not
sure how the grease would stand up there. Its better than nothing
IMHO. I've been useing Fel-Pro C-100 molybdenum disulfide for years
but it is being replaced with Fel-Pro Heavy Duty Antiseize(lead free).
I can cook type 304 stainl;ess steel bolts threaded into the same
material at 200 degrees C for quite awhile and remove the bolts easliy
afterward if they are coated with C-100 or the new stuff. Bare SS
bolts into SS threads will gall so bad you will never remove them. It
works on Al bolts in steel too. There are some colliodal copper
anti-seize compunds out there that are supposed to work as well.
I use it wherever stuff gets stuck or where directed too by my
Yamaha shop manual. Even though my manual doesn't say anything about
anti-sieze on brake pad pins I use it there.
dave dude
96yz250-well greased
Dave Dude
wrote:
>Gentlemen
> I cant find the article right now but here is what i remember about oil and
>grease. If you use grease or oil on bolts that don't call for it, you need to
>reduce the torque by 50%. Most torque figures are for clean, dry threads,
>unless instructed otherwise.
Yeah, good point. Someplaces its suicidal to have clean dry threads,
you will decapitate them poor little suckers trying to get them out!!
I would not personally be out of anti-seize. Bad juju!!
Good one Mark!!
dave dude
96yz250
bill lawrence
nipples. they were supplied with a "speacial oil" to prevent galling of
the threads. i used it and wasnt very impressed with its performance. it
also washes off very easily (i use wesleys bleech white to clean with)
anti seize does not wash off, or out. i use anti seize alot and am
thinking of disassembleing my wheels and using it there too because id
be really bummed if my nipples foze to the spokes. ha, that sounded
kinda sily.
BILYCLUB
1990 CR 250
Jay C
need ta gets me a new soot - if ahms gonna bees impotant, ahms gonna look
impotant.
Damn spell checkers ;)
Jay
C5FltEngnr
You were the first to hound me on that little type-o. I thought i would be
thrown from RMD after that one.
Mark
C5FLTENGNR
Nut
> I cant find the article right now but here is what i remember about oil and
>grease. If you use grease or oil on bolts that don't call for it, you need to
>reduce the torque by 50%. Most torque figures are for clean, dry threads,
>unless instructed otherwise.
True. Actually, you'll have to reduce the torque somewhat less,
approx. 25%. But of course this depends on the type of lubricant.
Yes, torque values are usually for clean, dry threads.
>The oil or grease can cause the bolt to be over
>stretched. Torquing the bolt stretches it and holds the nut secure. Oil or
>grease allows to much stretch, this can snap the bolt or distort whatever your
>torquing.
The important factor in a bolted connection is the preload on a bolt.
A lubricant actually reduces thread friction allowing a higher preload
for the same given torque. If there was an easy way to measure
preload, we would actually do that instead of measuring torque. The
amount of preload resulting from a specific torque is variable and
dependent on other factors such as friction, bolt diameter, and thread
pitch.
> Anti Seize is not a lubricant, and therefore doesn't throw off torque
>readings.
NO! NO! NO! Never-Seez is most certainly a lubricant and the applied
torque should be reduced approx. 25% from the given values. If you use
any lubricating or Anti-sieze compound the torque values must be
reduced or you face the possibility of over-stressing and/or breaking
bolts. Also, it is important to use the same grade of fasteners when
replacing nuts and bolts because different grades have different
strengths and mechanical properties and the corresponding torque
required to produce the preload will be different. Roughly translated:
If you replace nuts and bolts with non OEM fasteners, then the torque
values stated in your Clymer manual may not be correct. YMMV.
-Dave
(I knew the mechanical engineering degree would be useful someday!)
92 YZ125
86 TRX 250R
98 Warrior
WomenOffRd
feel like I'm in a medical newsgroup.
Women...@aol.com (Kim Orndorff)
KDX200/Race the Dez!
http://home.earthlink.net/~the98s
MRRMX
C5FltEngnr
first place! Sorry to drive you crazy.
Mark ( no i'm not impotant, or important) nelson
C5FLTENGNR