Getting started with Infra Red Photography Summary
Craig Richmond - division
on getting started with infrared photography. I received about 20-30
replies via mail and news which was about 60K before pruning and 30K after
pruning of headers and quoting. Most people seemed to have similar things
to say so I'm fairly confident about the accuracy of what is said here.
Firstly, thanks go out to most of the following people who I have grepped
from my IR mailbox. Think a couple of lucky people have snuck in because I
saved questions from them :) And if you are really confused, someone sent
me a digest of previous articles/replies on the subject of IR photography
so I may have got your name from there.
aa...@binah.cc.brandeis.edu, aaz...@sales.stern.nyu.edu, amol...@NMSU.Edu,
and...@ritvax.isc.rit.edu, cd...@hplb.hpl.hp.com, cra...@clvax1.cl.msu.edu,
ben...@Athena.MIT.EDU, dnew...@whale.st.usm.edu, fa...@peregrine.Sun.COM,
for...@fraser.sfu.ca, ho...@rcf.usc.edu, ji...@large.isc-br.com,
koo...@BBN.COM, lau...@neuro.duke.edu, m...@mipl8.Jpl.Nasa.Gov,
mon...@ECE.ORST.EDU, mor...@csa.nsa.hp.com, ph...@zurich.ai.mit.edu,
r...@ccu.UManitoba.CA, s...@syl.nj.nec.com, sb...@ukc.ac.uk,
zrep...@cc.curtin.edu.au, na...@binah.cc.brandeis.edu,
gsh...@next14csc.wam.umd.edu
Thank you one and all.
This is probably being placed in the FAQ so I'll lay it out appropriately.
(I can't find the FAQ on my local site at the moment so I'll lay it out how
I think it looks and leave the rest up to the FAQ maintainer)
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Getting started with Infra-Red Photography
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What is Infra-Red Photography and why do I want to do it:
Infra-Red photography is the photography of infra-red light (IR). The
reflectance of infrared light is different than that of visible light for
certain objects. The chlorophyl in plants reflects a lot of IR and
rocks/buildings are apparently quite interesting photographed with IR
film. Results can be quite good, but by all accounts, a lot of effort and
wasted film may be required to get those few good shots.
The Tools of the Trade:
First you need a camera. IR film is available in 35mm rolls and up. The
film is apparently fairly grainy so if you are using 35mm, enlargements
over about 10x8" won't be feasible.
Next you need a light sensitive bag. IR film is sensitive to the visible
light spectrum as well as the IR spectrum. The plastic canister that holds
the roll of film is IR proof, but the film canister itself is only 'mostly'
IR proof. Loading the film in a cool dark room is best. Loading the film
in a light proof/IR proof bag is also good, but if all else fails, a number
of respondents seemed to think that a relatively dark room was OK and that
you might find a bit of fogging on the first couple of shots.
You need a filter for your camera. The film is sensitive to visible light
and IR, so to increase the effect of the IR light int the photo, you must
filter out the visible light a bit (or totally). The filters you require
are any of the following types. A Wratten #25A seemed to be the most
commonly mentioned. It is a very dark red colour and lets through some
visible light. A #29 filter (Far Red) was also mentioned. When using
either of these filters, the focus point moves about half way from the
normal focus to the IR focus on your camera (usually a red dot or line to
the side of the normal focusing position). The other type of filter is a
#87 filter or #87C filter gel. These filters are opaque which as you would
imagine makes focusing a little bit difficult. For all IR photography it
seems the best idea is to turn off your autofocus, set up the shot and then
place the filter on the camera for your shot.
You need some IR film. General consensus was only buy film from places
that keep it refridgerated. Keep it cool until you use it. Use it quickly
and keep it cool afterwards. Process it within 1-2 days of exposure.
Different films have different characteristics. The Konica and the Kodak
being the most commonly mentioned. IR film will fog if you get it hot, so
don't leave your camera in the car in the middle of summer unless you want
a whole bunch of photos that look like photos of pea soup fog.
Quoting from and...@ritvax.isc.rit.edu's respsonse
> Quite true but the problem can be explained simply by looking at the spectral
> sensitivity curves for the two films. The Konica film basically dies out at
> around 800 nm while the Kodak HS IR film has sensitivity even slightly beyond
> 900 nm. The 87 Wratten filter spectral transmission curve will show that this
> filter allows little radiation to pass to which the Konica film is sensitive.
This was a response to someone's comment that using the times suggested for
Kodak film, gave him a blank negative on the Konica film. The Konica film
is less likely to fog, less fussy when being loaded, but also less
sensitive to IR light.
Where to get the above items? People suggested that professional photo
shops were about the only place that will stock most of those items. If
you go to photo shops that specialise in architechural photography you
should be able to find all of those sort of items.
Taking your photos:
Set up the shot as per normal. Focus the shot using normal light
conditions. Put your filter on and adjust the focus to the appropriate
point. Half way to the red mark for the #25 filter or all the way to the
red mark for the #87 filter.
The IR film is only really sensitive to reflected IR light so having a
strong IR light source is relatively essential. The sun is a very good one
of these, very cheap, but unfortunately highly unreliable. Plants reflect
lots of IR light and rocks are apparently very good too. I assume they
absorb the energy from the sun and radiate their own IR. (That is however
specualtion) Bracket your photos. Come up with an approximation for your
shot and go at least +/-1 and if you are rich, +/-2 as well.
Approximations for exposures suggested were as follows.
aa...@binah.cc.brandeis.edu
If you are using Kodak film, the red 25A filter, and TTL metering, shoot at
ASA 200 and bracket about +/- 1 stop.
aaz...@sales.stern.nyu.edu
I use ASA 200 or ASA 100
sb...@ukc.ac.uk (speaking about the colour IR slide film available)
I also shot some other things with it, aperture/timing as a normal 100ASA film.
For the slide IR, the use of a dark yellow filter is essential. It cuts out the
blue tones (without it, all the slides get a really cold/bluish look. But it
has to be *dark* yellow... I use two filters (a Y2 (no brand) and a Cokin 001
(which is also a Y2 filter, ie strength 2)) now on the film I'm currently
shooting, and hope to get some interesting results from that.
But as a ground rule, bracket loads until you get the 'feel' of the film, use a
strength 4 yellow on the slide IR (I use Ektachrome from Kodak) shooting it as
a 100ASA film and dark red (Hoya have an excellent one there) for the b/w IR (I
think they recommend a 50ASA-ish exposure).
m...@mipl8.Jpl.Nasa.Gov
I find it best to set my meter for an ISO of 200 (even though Kodak suggests
ISO 50) and bracket +1, +2, -1, and -2 stops.
aa...@binah.cc.brandeis.edu
You also need to bracket your exposures. +/- 1 stop around the ISO 200
exposure (if you use TTL metering and a 25A filter) should suffice to start.
Getting the film Processed:
Your run of the mill 1 hour processing lab may not be able to do IR film in
a hurry. If you are using the colour IR film it is even harder. It was
suggested that a University lab where they use the film for research might
be a good place to try for that. For the B&W film you can process it
yourself using the following method, or a few phone calls to processing
labs should find you someone who can do it.
cd...@hplb.hpl.hp.com
IR film is EXTREMELY sensitive - you have to be ultra-carfeul when
putting into the film tank - and its worth processing as soon as possible
to avoid unexpected fogging. Use IP11 for 11.5 mins. I've forgotten what
they said to rate the film at... damn it was improtant... sorry.
ji...@large.isc-br.com
It is processed in your favorite B&W soup, so far as I know (I've only
ever done one roll myself, and I followed the directions on the sheet
and processed it in class using D-76).
mon...@ECE.ORST.EDU
IR Ektachrome is a false-color transparency film that uses the old
E-4 process, instead of the current E-6 process. To find the stuff,
Books on the subject:
ho...@rcf.usc.edu
The handiest book I've found for photography is 3 inches by 6 inches
and will answer most of your questions. It even has addresses for
infrared processing. The title is: The Ultimate Photo Data Guide by
Richard Platt. I bought it at a Crown discount bookstore.
aaz...@sales.stern.nyu.edu & mor...@csa.nsa.hp.com
The Art of Infrared Photography by Joseph Paduano
Kodak also put out a number of Books on or related to Infrared Photography
which would help get started.
If you are interested in an article about how to practice IR photography
with an SLR in "action" situations you might like to get in touch with
and...@ritvax.isc.rit.edu and ask him to mail the information for
finding a copy to the FAQ maintainer for placing in the FAQ. I should
probably have already mailed him, but I've been busy and want to get this
done.
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That about finishes what I think I need to know to get started and as soon
as I have some spare time I will actually get onto it. I hope this helps
some of you get started as well.
Craig
--
Craig Richmond. Computer Officer - Dept of Economics (morning) 380 3860
University of Western Australia Dept of Education (afternoon) 2388
cr...@ecel.uwa.edu.au Dvorak Keyboards RULE! "Messes are only acceptable
if users make them. Applications aren't allowed this freedom" I.M.VI 2-4