cost of gravel driveway
Ken Meinken
I realize that this will vary tremendously with different locations,
but could someone give me an idea of what it might cost to have 400'
of gravel driveway put in? We are looking at some land and would like
to know if we are looking at $500 or $5000!
The land is flat SW Ohio farmland, probably a high water tabke, and
gravel is available within 10-15 miles.
Thanks!
Dennis Virzi
In article <5s2evs$dpn$1...@news.one.net>, kmei...@one.net (Ken Meinken) wrote:
>I realize that this will vary tremendously with different locations,
>but could someone give me an idea of what it might cost to have 400'
>of gravel driveway put in?
In SE Oklahoma I paid $90 per dump truck load.
One load will do 50 to 75 feet.
roger andres
Ken , Around here creek gravel runs about 40 to 50 dollars a truck load
( 10 to 12 tons)
if they spread it from the truck about 6 inches deep it will go about 75
to 100 feet. You may want to put it on thicker or maybe put some on
drive on it for awhile ( months) then put other layer down as needed.
Just remember to keep it higher in the center to keep the rain going to
the sides. Good luck Roger
Ken Nelson
kmei...@one.net (Ken Meinken) writes:
>I realize that this will vary tremendously with different locations,
>but could someone give me an idea of what it might cost to have 400'
>of gravel driveway put in? We are looking at some land and would like
>to know if we are looking at $500 or $5000!
>The land is flat SW Ohio farmland, probably a high water tabke, and
>gravel is available within 10-15 miles.
>Thanks!
>Ken
>kmei...@one.net
My guess would be more than $500 but closer to $500 than $5000. A morning
of dozer work and 10 loads of gravel at about $70 a load, 10 ton per load.
Actually depends on how good a driveway you want.
I got a rough driveway, about a half a mile long, hilly, in northern KY.
Its really good enough for any two wheel drive truck but cars sometimes
scrape. I usually spend about $400/yr on for culverts and the like. If the
driveway is always dry, like mine is, no problem but if it floods, you
have a problem. If its flat but wet, you may need to build up a road bed
for the driveway.
ken
Ken Meinken
osw...@airmail.net (Dennis Virzi) wrote:
>In article <5s2evs$dpn$1...@news.one.net>, kmei...@one.net (Ken Meinken) wrote:
>>I realize that this will vary tremendously with different locations,
>>but could someone give me an idea of what it might cost to have 400'
>>of gravel driveway put in?
>In SE Oklahoma I paid $90 per dump truck load.
>One load will do 50 to 75 feet.
Thanks. How thick would that give at 50-75'/load? There is a driveway
already started and they've dug out 8-12" before putting down the
stone (crushed limestone, I think). I assume it's wise to have a base
like that? Or is is just as good to dump the gravel on top? This
land tends to be wet during spring. How much excavation time might be
required?
Thanks,
Ken
W. J. Emerson
The "standard" around here seems to be what is locally called
"inch and a half crusher-run" limestone. This aggregate
varies in size from 1.5" down to almost powder. At the quarry
it was not screened. The fines in this mix pack very tightly
and supposedly form a seal that helps prevent water from
percolating into the clay (or whatever) below, and also help
keep the clay from rising up into the stone. The surface
hardens to a concrete-like feel, but it *will* erode if water
runs down the surface on a long slope. Having a crown on
the road surface will help, but it may be difficult to maintain
a crown over the years.
Limestone weighs roughly 1.4 tons per cubic yard. A large dump
truck can haul about 20 tons, but I've had 30 tons delivered in
a single truck (probably overweight by law). You can order the
stone by the ton rather than by the truckload. The supplier can
determine the best way to load the trucks. And don't hesitate
to call more than one place and ask for a quote. They'll want
to know to where they are delivering before giving you a price,
of course.
You will probably want the truck to "tailgate" (spread) the stone
on your driveway. To do this, there must be a lot of overhead
clearance. When the truck bed is raised, it is quite high.
You said your driveway was flat, but if some other reader has a
steeply sloped driveway, they should know that the driver will
probably want to tailgate downhill to avoid the risk of standing
the dump truck up on end.
If possible, have the first loads of stone spread at the road end
of your driveway. That way the other trucks can drive over the
first load(s) and help pack it as they deliver subsequent loads.
Amount Needed for each 100 feet (in tons):
----------------- Thickness ----------------
| 4" 6" 8" 10" 12" 14"
|
Width 8' | 15 22 29 36 43 50
Width 10' | 18 27 36 45 53 62
Width 12' | 22 32 43 53 64 75
Width 14' | 25 37 50 62 75 87
For example...400 feet long, 12 feet wide, 10" thick would
require about 53 x 4 = 212 tons or roughly 10 truckloads at
21 tons per truckload.
Delivery cost ultimately depends on distance from the quarry.
Ordering from local stock piles will not necessarily be any
cheaper than ordering from the quarry (and will likely be
more expensive) if you are ordering a full truck load or more.
In northern WV costs are about $7.25 per ton for the stone, and
about $4 delivery to a site 40 miles from the quarry.
Ken Meinken wrote:
>
> I realize that this will vary tremendously with different locations,
> but could someone give me an idea of what it might cost to have 400'
> of gravel driveway put in? We are looking at some land and would like
> to know if we are looking at $500 or $5000!
--
W.J. Emerson
fsa0...@wvnvm.wvnet.edu
Doug Huebner
In article <33E6AF...@wvnvm.wvnet.edu>,
W. J. Emerson <fsa0...@wvnvm.wvnet.edu> wrote:
>The "standard" around here seems to be what is locally called
>"inch and a half crusher-run" limestone. This aggregate
>varies in size from 1.5" down to almost powder. At the quarry
We just had a short drive put in - about 200'. They used larger crushed
rock [I forget the term for it] and then went over with a sand gravel
mix. This is a rough drive until construction of a house is complete.
>
>In northern WV costs are about $7.25 per ton for the stone, and
>about $4 delivery to a site 40 miles from the quarry.
For a sand gravel mix delivered about 20 miles we paid $60 for 6 yards.
It was the place recommended to me so I am unsure if there were better
deals to be had.
>
>Ken Meinken wrote:
>>
>> I realize that this will vary tremendously with different locations,
>> but could someone give me an idea of what it might cost to have 400'
>> of gravel driveway put in? We are looking at some land and would like
>> to know if we are looking at $500 or $5000!
>
>
For a 200' drive, fairly level we paid $500 including grading, gravel, etc.
That our experience from souther Wisconsin
Doug
C. Brunner
In article <33E6AF...@wvnvm.wvnet.edu> "W. J. Emerson" <fsa0...@wvnvm.wvnet.edu> writes:
>The "standard" around here seems to be what is locally called
>"inch and a half crusher-run" limestone. This aggregate
Just thought I'd offer another opinion about gravel for roads...
A whole lotta people told us to use crusher run on the newly constructed road
we had built into the middle of our rural acreage. I don't know the length,
maybe 1/4 mile total with some curves and mild slopes. We used a couple of
loads of crusher run on the first stretch, just to see how it worked out.
Packed down real nice, just like everybody said, forming a fairly hard
surface. But, when it rained the next spring (and we have gully-washers quite
regularly), the crusher-run eroded badly and left deep grooves down to the
clay base. So, the next few loads were ... oh, jeez, I can't remember what
grade but it was slightly larger and no fines. The cost, to our surprise, was
nearly the same as the crusher run--just slightly higher I think. The REAL
difference was the distance covered per load with the new stuff. It went MUCH
farther than a load of crusher run, and it spread much more evenly when
tailgated. So, the cost per linear distance of road was a lot less. To top
it off, the new stuff doesn't wash like the crusher run. It stays put.
C. Brunner
Bob Reite
Here in NE Pennsylvania, it cost me $900 to repair about 400 feet of road
that washed out in storms a couple of years ago, and to put down gravel on
1000 feet. The washed out part was replaced with "pit run", then modified
gravel on top of the whole road. This included the labor for the backhoe
operator, as well as the materials.
Ron Wenrich
Preferred Customer <dsg...@msn.com> wrote in article
<01bcb291$5c070fe0$dc232299@default>...
> Does anyone have any thoughts or stats on asphalt vs. gravel?
Here in PA, we have another alternative known as RAP - recycled asphalt
pavement. When the highway dept. repaves some major roads, they chip off
the old asphalt before they reasphalt. It is spread out the same as
gravel, and should be rolled, to make a really good road. Potholes will
still develop, as with any type of road. The tar in the asphalt really
knits together well. We have put this in our yard at the sawmill and it is
holding up well even under 40+ ton loads. Winter will be the test.
Check around to see if RAP is available in your area. Local highway
deparrments may give it away. Pavers sell it for about half the price of
gravel.
RDW
David Buxton
A gravel road with a surface shape that quickly sheds water and then
swales and/or ditches at the side to keep water from soaking into the road
bed -- such a road does not need very much gravel over the years. A
poorly shaped road can have an enormous apetite for gravel.
If you simply toss gravel in the pot holes and then call in the asphalt
crew, you will end up with an asphalt road that all too quickly goes to
pot. A lousy investment. Whether for gravel or for asphalt, the road
needs to be shaped properly for good drainage. The rim of the pot holes
and ruts need to be broken up so that they can drain. You can put the
material from the rim into the ruts and pot holes and fresh new gravel
(drains better) if needed where the rim used to be. I live in Washington
state across from the Portland airport and we get a lot of rain. On our
community road the rim can be like concrete and is very tough to break up.
If yours is the same you might want to consider a heavy grader to shape
up the road. The typical home owner's tractor with a blade on it won't
put much of a dent in the stuff I have to deal with.
With a gravel road that has been properly shaped, you can keep it in shape
with some light grading perhaps twice a year. You can probably get by on
once a year and it does not take much of a tractor to do some simple
grading if done before the rim hardens up again.
With an asphalt road you do need to seal it every 4 to 6 years.
You can do asphalt 10' wide with 5' gravel shoulders for passing for a
total of 20'. You don't have to be 20' wide the full length. So, you
could simply do your road 10' wide with an asphalt or gravel passing area
at acceptable intervals. Blind curves should be kept 20' wide to
facilitate passing.
Brian Merriman
Ha a neighbor in Lebanon MO that go tired of gravel driveway washing &
"spreading" away. He happened along a bunch of old railroad ties which
he lined both sides of driveway with. He staked them up on the outside
with 2' 2x4s and had a whole new load of gravel laid in on top. The
ties hold the gravel in and gives him very firm driveway. He got the
ties for free, otherwise would have been quite expensive I assume. Then
another neigbor started doing the same to his drive but using trees cut
off of a lot. Most of them were about 8" dia. staked them the same
way. I don't know if his worked as well because we moved, but its an
idea. And what the heck even a bad Idea is worth sharing, even if it
just to give a good laugh.
--
VRY
BM
mailto:merr...@worldnet.att.net
Brian Merriman's Tribute to NASCAR
http://home.att.net/~merriman/